Blue jay

Crows, ravens, magpies, nutcrackers and jays — these songbirds are all corvids, a family with many of the world’s smartest and most social birds. Their intelligence exceeds that of all other bird families, except parrots.

NO “BIRDBRAINS” HERE

With their large brain-to-body size (larger than all other bird families), corvids have complex learning and recognition skills, similar to those of primates. In experiments, crows and ravens solve challenging puzzles designed for them to access a reward (food).

California scrub-jay with peanut

Corvids are so curious, they can even figure out how to use tools without being shown. In the wild, crows have been observed dropping nuts on paved roads and waiting for cars to drive over them so they can then pick out the edible parts of the crushed nuts. Corvids are also good at recognizing individuals. Experiments show that American crows (and other corvids) can identify specific human faces and even people’s facial expressions.

Their language is also highly developed. Listen to crows, jays or ravens, and you’ll notice how many different vocalizations they have! They can also learn vocal mimicry. Blue jays imitate the calls of red-shouldered hawks nearly perfectly, while crows and ravens have a much wider range, mimicking all sorts of sounds, from other animals to mechanical sounds and even human words. While visiting friends in Canada, we heard a common raven several times say the name of our friends’ dog. The raven had heard the dog’s name being yelled over and over and learned to mimic it!

Steller’s jay

FAMILY DEVOTION

Corvids are very social birds and are close to family members. There’s a strong bond not just between parents and young but also between mates, who are typically together for life. Another amazing characteristic of corvids, which appears more often than with most other birds, is something called “cooperative breeding.”

With corvids, this is when the offspring of a pair of jays or crows, for example, stay with their parents even after they are old enough to be on their own. It helps them learn even more for when they do finally go off to raise their own families, but it’s also so they can help their parents raise future clutches of young — their siblings. They might help with nest building, feeding the young or removing poop from the nest.

They can also act as lookouts for hawks, owls or snakes, warning the family when these predators appear. Groups of jays and other songbirds will come together to squawk at a snake or raptor to let the predator know that there will be no meal while “we see you!” Corvids often harass predators larger than themselves. Jays might dive-bomb a crow, and a crow might dive-bomb an even larger predator, like a red-tailed hawk!

The strong family bond in corvids is also shown in their behavior when a family member dies. They mourn the loss deeply. At our home in Florida, a rat snake once killed a blue jay, and a family member perched above on a tree branch making sad sounds for a long time. It was a very emotional observance.

Common raven

WILD FRIENDS

Corvids are found on all continents except Antarctica, with 130 species worldwide. Nearly all of the 20 corvid species native to the U.S. are year-round residents, staying in the same area their whole lives. However, some individuals of certain species, particularly blue jays and American and fish crows, might migrate short distances, heading to warmer areas in the winter. Crows can gather in huge flocks in the hundreds or even thousands (called a “murder” of crows) — safety in numbers!

Many people think crows, ravens, magpies and jays are obnoxious or don’t like them because they are noisy or seem to chase off other birds, but we hope that you’ll come to appreciate and respect these brainy birds. Their ability to adapt and learn is truly remarkable and puts them in a league with other clever, curious creatures. Remember, they can recognize your face and your sounds, so talk to them nicely, put out feeders and water for them, and they might become your “wild” friends!

4 FAST FACTS ABOUT CORVIDS

1. Corvids typically live long lives. One blue jay in the wild lived to be 26 years old. A common raven in captivity lived to the ripe old age of 69.

2. Common ravens are the largest corvid, as well as the largest songbird in the world, weighing up to 3.5 pounds!

3. Corvids store food to eat later — sometimes half a year later or longer! Blue jays and scrubjays cache acorns, and nutcrackers cache pine nuts. Scrub-jays have been known to cache thousands of acorns from one year’s crop.

4. Experiments have shown that crows can use tools, plan ahead, barter for future food rewards and learn to perform tasks even faster than some primates.

Bats and birds are their specialties, but wildlife biologists Selena Birgit Kiser and Mark Kiser love all species of critters. Both have worked for the State of Florida and previously worked for Bat Conservation International on such programs as the Great Florida Birding and Wildlife Trail and the North American Bat House Research Project.

"Clever Curious Corvids: Learn About This Family of Brainy Birds" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Our country’s flag is more than just a piece of cloth. It’s a symbol of America. It represents our past, our present and our future. Treating the U.S. flag honorably shows respect for our country’s people, land and ways of life. It’s important to know how to properly display and fold the American flag.

You can fly the flag every day of the year, but you have to do it the right way. When raising it during a Scout outing or meeting, you should follow certain etiquette.

RAISING THE AMERICAN FLAG

When hoisting a flag on a flagpole, one person should hold the folded flag so it does not touch the ground. If it touches the ground, that doesn’t mean the flag should be retired — you can clean it instead. As long as it’s still suitable for display, the flag can fly. A second person should attach the flag to the flag line, which is called a “halyard.”

Once attached, briskly raise the flag, keeping the line tight. When the flag is flying, step back and salute as the second person ties the halyard to the flagpole.

FLYING MULTIPLE FLAGS

If the U.S. flag is flown with other types of flags — like state flags or maybe your Scout unit’s flag — the U.S. flag should be given the position of honor to its own right. That means if you’re standing next to the flag and looking out at an audience or away from a building, the U.S. flag should always be on the right. The American flag should be the first hoisted and the last lowered.

Flying the flag at half-staff shows sorrow after a national tragedy or the death of a national or state figure. It also honors those who have sacrificed their lives for our country, like on Memorial Day. On that holiday, fly the flag at half-staff until noon and then hoist it to full-staff.

LOWERING THE AMERICAN FLAG

The American flag should be lowered slowly by one person while a second person salutes it until it’s within reach. When the flag is in reach, the person who was saluting should gather the flag in his arms while the other removes the flag from the flagpole and re-ties the halyard. After it’s removed from the halyard, both people can fold the flag.

HOW TO FOLD THE AMERICAN FLAG

After lowering the flag, you’re not done yet. You can’t just fold up the flag any old way. Here’s how to fold the American flag:

Hold it at waist level between yourself and another person, fold it in half lengthwise, then fold it in half lengthwise again, always keeping the blue field on the outside. While one person holds the flag by the blue field, the other should make triangular folds from the opposite end until only the blue field is available.

WHEN TO FLY THE FLAG

You can fly the American flag every day, but there are certain national and state holidays that call for its display. Some of those include:

• New Year’s Day (Jan. 1)
• Inauguration Day (every four years on Jan. 20)
• Martin Luther King Jr.’s Birthday (third Monday in January)
• Lincoln’s Birthday (Feb. 12)
• Presidents Day (third Monday in February)
• National Vietnam War Veterans Day (March 29)
• Easter Sunday (on a Sunday between March 22 and April 25)
• Armed Forces Day (third Saturday in May)
• Memorial Day (last Monday in May)
• Flag Day (June 14)
• Independence Day (July 4)
• National Korean War Veterans Armistice Day (July 27)
• Labor Day (first Monday in September)
• Patriot Day (Sept. 11)
• Constitution Day (Sept. 17)
• Columbus Day (second Monday in October)
• Navy Day (Oct. 27)
• Veterans Day (Nov. 11)
• Thanksgiving Day (fourth Thursday in November)
• Christmas Day (Dec. 25)

The U.S. flag can be carried on a staff in parades, at Scout meetings and during other ceremonies and events.

"How to Display and Fold the American Flag" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: What are good options for waterproof hiking boots?
— Saralynn, Sleepy Hollow, New York

A: Waterproof hiking boots do a great job at repelling outside moisture. An ideal time to pack them are on rainy or snowy adventures. However, if you sweat a lot, they can trap inside moisture, too, which can lead to damp, stinky socks. So pair your boots with wool or synthetic socks, which are designed to wick moisture away from your feet.

Some good boot options I’ve tested out recently are the Teva Grandview Gore-Tex hiking boot ($175, teva.com) and the Muck Outscape Max boot ($130, muckbootcompany.com).

The Grandview combines waterproof leather, quick-dry mesh and Gore-Tex. Gore-Tex is a waterproof yet breathable material; it’s often used in gloves, boots and rain jackets. The Grandview feels very comfortable, thanks to its adjustable heel lock system, which relieves pressure off your toes when hiking downhill.

The Outscape uses rubber and flexible neoprene to repel the elements. It also has a large collar opening, making it easy to slip the boots on and off.

"Two Good Options for Waterproof Hiking Boots" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Sustainability means not wasting our resources. Nemo Equipment is trying to further that mission with its Endless Promise products, including the Forte synthetic sleeping bag ($170 for a 35-degree bag, $200 for a 20-degree bag, nemoequipment.com), which is 100% recyclable.

Nemo took its top-selling three-season sleeping bag and redesigned it so every part could be recycled. It still keeps you warm with 35- and 20-degree-rated versions, each with adjustable zippered vents that can help you find the right temperature. The bag’s shape also provides more room in the shoulder and knee areas, making it more comfortable to sleep on your side.

Send your used sleeping bag back to Nemo to be resold or recycled and the company will quote you a price for your bag or send you a gift card as a thanks for recycling.

"Stuff We Like: Nemo Endless Promise Sleeping Bag" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You can create a tasty meal with just heavy-duty aluminum foil and hot coals from a campfire. Food wrapped airtight in foil cooks like it’s in a miniature pressure cooker.

PREPARING THE INGREDIENTS

Almost anything you like can be cooked in a foil dinner packet. Here are some of our favorite ingredients:

• Protein: Ground beef, chicken breast, sausage, fish, or even tofu for a vegetarian option.
• Vegetables: Potatoes, carrots, onions, bell peppers, zucchini, mushrooms, corn, etc.
• Seasoning: Salt, pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, or Italian seasoning.
• Fat: Olive oil, butter, or cooking spray to prevent sticking and add flavor.

To prepare the ingredients, cut the vegetables into uniform, bite-sized pieces so they cook evenly. If you’re using meat, make sure it’s cut into small pieces or patties for faster, even cooking.

Lay out a large sheet of aluminum foil (about 12-18 inches long). For best results, use heavy-duty aluminum foil to prevent tearing. You may also want to double wrap it if you’re concerned about your meal breaking open during cooking.

Before assembling your meal, lightly oil or spray the the foil to prevent sticking. Then layer your ingredients. Start with the protein (like a ground beef patty, sausage or chicken), then add your veggies on top. Season generously with salt, pepper and your choice of herbs and spices.

HOW TO FOLD A FOIL DINNER

When you fold your foil meal, allow some space for expansion by wrapping your uncooked food loosely. If you want your food to brown or broil as if it were in a skillet, leave the package open at the top so the steam can escape, and you can watch your meal cook. Otherwise, fold the foil to make it airtight.

There are three ways to fold a foil dinner: handle wrap, bundle wrap and drugstore wrap.

• To use the handle wrap, tear off a section of foil long enough to double it, and crimp and fold the foil into the shape you need.
• For the bundle wrap, place your food in the center of the foil. Bring the corners of the foil up into a pyramid shape, twisting the four corners together to create a seal.
• And with the drugstore wrap, place your food in the center of the foil. Fold the sides up and tightly crimp and fold down several times. Bring the open ends together, folding several times, and crimp it to seal.

HOW LONG DOES A FOIL DINNER TAKE TO COOK?

Place the wrapped food directly on a bed of hot coals. With some heat on top, a foil packet of diced vegetables and meat should cook in 10 to 15 minutes. Whole potatoes are done in 40 to 50 minutes. If you don’t have heat on top, you’ll want to flip it halfway through.

Use long tongs and oven mitts to move foil packs or pick them up. Open the packets carefully, as steam will escape. You can eat directly from the foil or transfer your meal to a plate. Add any extras like cheese, herbs, or sauces at this point.

"How to Cook a Tasty Foil Dinner In the Campfire" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

When you trek uphill, a hiking stick or trekking pole helps you keep your footing. If you’re trekking up a snowy mountain, you’ll want to carry an ice ax. Not only can an ice ax help you as you climb, it could also save you during a fall.

If you fall on a steep snow slope and begin to slide, you’ll want to use the ax to self-arrest, or stop your slide. Grip the head of your ice ax with one hand (the point of the pick turned away from you) and hold the shaft with the other. Roll toward the head of the ax until you are on your belly. The pick will embed itself in the snow and should stop you in a surprisingly short distance.

If your fall turns into a headfirst tumble, roll toward the pick and, as it bites into the snow and begins to slow your descent, swing your feet around until they are below you.

Self-arresting requires expert instruction and a lot of practice. Begin with purposely sliding on a slope with a safe runout. Slide in every imaginable position. When you automatically make the right moves to arrest your fall, you will have mastered a mountaineering safety skill.

"How to Use an Ice Ax to Self-Arrest on a Snowy Slope" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: What should I bring on a cold campout?

— Mark, Knoxville, Tennessee

A: Think layers. In addition to your outdoor essentials, toiletries and sleeping gear, pack clothing that you can easily add or remove. This helps you maintain ideal comfort, especially if the temperature or conditions change.

These layers should address the “three W’s”: warmth, wicking and weather. Your outermost layer protects you from the elements. Look for clothing labeled “windproof” and “waterproof.” Your warmth layer should be made of fleece, wool, down or synthetic insulation — these materials are designed to keep you warmer than others, like cotton. Your wicking layer is worn closest to your skin, and it’s supposed to wick away moisture, keeping you dry.

Don’t forget a hat — you can lose 10% or more of your body heat through your head. I’d suggest wool or synthetics, like Coal’s Uniform knit cuff beanie ($27, coalheadwear.com), which is made with Polylana fiber, a very soft synthetic material that is recyclable.

Wear insulated gloves and footwear, too. Some options I’ve tried are the Gordini Foundation gloves ($95, gordini.com), which use a combination of polyester and goose down, and the Exped Camp Booty ($65, exped.com), a pair of warm shoes made with recycled polyester.

"Think Layers When Packing for a Cold Campout" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Columbia’s Hikebound rain jacket

Rain doesn’t have to ruin your fun. A good rain jacket will help keep you dry and comfortable, whether you’re caught in a sprinkle or hiking for days in a steady rain.

Get a jacket that’s made for outdoor sports, meaning it’s both waterproof and breathable. Wearing a rain jacket that’s not breathable is a little like wearing a trash bag: You’ll get wet from your sweat on the inside.

You’ll also want one that’s packable.

Charlie Berg

Look for jackets tough enough to handle rubbing against your backpack. If you like to travel fast and light, abrasion resistance isn’t as important as packability and weight.

THE LOW DOWN ON RAIN JACKETS

When experts talk about rain jackets, they usually categorize them as either hard shells or soft shells.

Hard shells are what most people think of when they talk about outdoor rain jackets. These are lightweight hooded jackets designed to keep out wind and rain. Standard rain slickers are considered hard shells, too, but we’re focusing on rain jackets that are also breathable, meaning they wick sweat away from your body. If you’re wearing something that doesn’t breathe, you’re going to sweat and get all the rest of your insulation wet because none of the moisture is going to be able to leave.

Soft shells are woven jackets that are wind- and water-resistant and totally breathable. Many soft shells use a durable water-repellent (a.k.a. DWR) coating on the jacket’s surface to make it shed rain.

ONE RAIN JACKET FOR ALL?

If you can afford only one rain jacket, you should buy a simple lightweight hard shell. Hard shells are necessary equipment for heavy wind and wet weather because a soft shell jacket simply won’t give you the needed protection. That said, if you can afford both, a soft shell jacket is ideal for about 80 percent of your outdoor activities, and you can keep a lightweight, waterproof hard shell in your backpack for the nasty weather.

Outdoor Research’s Packable Stratoburst Stretch Rain Jacket ($165, outdoorresearch.com) is great for hiking and more. It’s light and packable, with large pit zips for venting on hot days. The fabric is waterproof and very breathable, and the jacket is stretchy so you can move around freely. Some rain jackets are crinkly and loud; this one is not.

HARD VS. SOFT SHELL

Soft shells are generally more supple and more breathable but less windproof and less waterproof. Hard shells typically don’t fit quite as nice, but they’re usually more waterproof, more windproof and lighter weight.

WATERPROOF/BREATHABLE FABRICS

These are marketing words you’ll hear used to describe rain jackets. Usually these jackets are built with two to three layers of material, including a special membrane layer that keeps weather out while letting your sweat escape.

A common misconception when people are looking for a rain jacket is they think they need to see the words 100 percent waterproof on the tag. Depending on your activity, you might want a decent amount of waterproofness, but don’t get hung up on it.

There are a wide variety of waterproof/breathable materials on the market. Some are more heavily advertised than others, but often the generic or “house brand” waterproof/breathable fabrics offered by manufacturers will work just as well for you. Gore-Tex, for example, is a fine product, but it’s only one of many waterproof/breathable fabrics.

Look for a rain jacket that is free of PFAS (or “forever chemicals”), commonly used in waterproof coatings.

With pit zips, spacious mesh pockets and two hood adjustments, Marmot’s Precip Eco Jacket ($120, marmot.com) is the original superb-value outdoor rain jacket. It has a little bit of stretch, and while it feels a little stickier on the skin than some, it’s a tried-and-true option that will last and perform.

MAKE SURE YOUR RAIN JACKET FITS

You want a rain jacket to be decently trim. You don’t want it to be bulking out and getting in the way of your mobility. To make sure it fits right, raise your arms over your head and make sure the bottom of the jacket doesn’t come up above your waist.

If you want the most versatility from your hard-shell rain jacket, size up — not down — so you can layer underneath it when the weather gets cooler.

Soft shells should be more form fitting. If you’ll be wearing a backpack waist belt or climbing harness, consider how the jacket may interfere with that.

THE HOOD

A really well-designed hood that lets you see well is something a lot of people probably don’t think about a lot, but it’s really important because with poorly designed hoods, you can barely do anything. Every time you turn your head you’re looking into the side of the hood.

Look for a hood that has good coverage, can fit over a climbing helmet (if you’ll be climbing) and is able to cinch down tight to your face so it doesn’t obstruct your view.

Save some money with Columbia’s Hikebound Rain Jacket ($80, columbia.com). The mesh-lined waterproof breathable polyester jacket comes in multiple sizes. It’s a sturdy two-layer seam-sealed shell designed for hiking. The zippered hand and chest pockets stash gear, and the hem, cuff and hood are all adjustable.

TAPED SEAMS

As rain jackets increase in price, you move from a basic coated fabric to one with taped seams.

“Taped seams are crucial for keeping you protected from rain in a downpour,” Berg says.

That said, keep in mind it doesn’t matter how much you spend, in a downpour even the most expensive rain jackets will probably eventually wet-out.

h2>PIT ZIPS

Even though they may claim breathability, the truth is that any rain jacket is going to be a little clammy. So look for one with pit zips (zippers that open the sides of the jacket under your arms) because they help with breathability, especially when you’re being active.

BELLS AND WHISTLES

MP3 pockets, hydration bladders, etc. You’ll see tricked-out jackets in the stores with these things, but it’s best to keep it simple. The ideal jacket is really lightweight and just has a well-designed hood, two chest pockets and fully sealed seams.

Columbia’s Inner Limits III ($100, columbia.com) has a mesh liner that makes this jacket a little heavier and bulkier than others. But it has taped seams and uses Columbia’s Omnitech waterproofing.

TRY BEFORE YOU BUY

You can find good rain jackets online, but it’s always best to buy in person because you can try it on.

COST

In general, the more you spend on a jacket, the more bells and whistles you’ll get. Also, higher-end waterproof rain jackets tend to be more breathable.

“Invest a little more, and you’ll get a jacket with pit zips for clearing sweat, better fabrics and an adjustable hood with a brim so you can see well while you’re moving,” Berg says. “Above $150, rain jackets may have some stretch for comfort, and the fabrics will usually be more breathable.”

If you happen to fit into kids’ sizes rather than adult jackets, you can save lots of cash on a rain jacket while still getting the same waterproof/windproof performance.

KEEPING YOUR RAIN JACKET CLEAN

Consider using a product like Nikwax to wash and re-waterproof your jacket, and follow the jacket manufacturer’s instructions regarding cleaning.

"How To Buy a Good Rain Jacket for Outdoor Activities" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Need knee-slapping funny campfire skits? Skip the invisible bench, and try some of these entertaining ideas.

Whether you’re at summer camp, a pack meeting or a weekend camporee, these funny campfire skits are easy to perform and also totally Scout-appropriate — so no worries about making things awkward. From slapstick comedy to clever wordplay, these easy skits will bring the fun without crossing any lines, making them perfect for a night of entertainment around the campfire.

1. CAN’T WORK IN THE DARK

SETTING: Outdoors, with four or more people pretending to rake leaves or dig with shovels. One person stands in the middle, pretending to be a light bulb with their arm raised straight up.
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Boss, light bulb person, three or more workers
PROPS NEEDED: Rakes, shovels (optional)

SKIT:

Boss enters, looks around and focuses on the Lightbulb Scout who is standing still with arms raised.

Boss (sternly): “Hey! I’m paying you to work, not to just stand there. Why aren’t you working?”

Light bulb person (proudly, without moving): “I’m a light bulb!”

Boss (annoyed): “A light bulb? I don’t need a light bulb standing around. Get to work! If you’re still here when I come back, you’re fired!”

Boss exits. Light bulb person remains, arm raised, while the others continue to rake and dig.

Boss re-enters, spots the light bulb person.

Boss (angrily): “Still not working? You’re fired! Get out!”

Light bulb person lowers their arm and walks off stage. The other workers stop working, confused.

Boss: “Why did you guys stop working? Get back to work!”

Worker: “How? We can’t work in the dark!”

The workers exit, leaving Boss alone, groaning in frustration.

2. THE INFANTRY IS COMING!

SETTING: Open stage space. The people will run in from offstage.
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Four people, sapling holder
PROPS NEEDED: Small sapling or branch

SKIT:

Person 1 (panicked): “The infantry is coming! Head for the bomb shelters!” (runs off)

Person 2 (shouting): “The infantry is coming! Save yourselves!” (runs off)

Person 3 (excited): “The infantry is coming! We should help them!” (runs off)

Person 4 (calmly): “The infantry is coming! Let’s go watch the tanks!” (walks off)

Person with sapling slowly enters, holding the tree.

Sapling holder (proudly): “And here it is … the infant tree!” (holds up the sapling)

3. ICE FISHING SKIT

SETTING: Outdoors, with “fishermen” slipping and sliding like they are on a frozen lake
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Three people, loud off-stage voice
PROPS NEEDED: Imaginary ice drill, fishing rods

SKIT:

Person 1: “We’re ice fishermen! We’re catching dinner tonight!”

The fishermen pretend to drill a hole in the ice, and they begin fishing in silence.

Off-stage voice booms: “THERE ARE NO FISH THERE!”

They jump, confused.

Person 2: “Let’s try over there.”

They move, drill a new hole and start fishing again.

Off-stage voice: “THERE ARE NO FISH THERE!”

They jump in confusion again.

Person 3: “Let’s try one more spot.”

They move, drill a hole and fish.

Off-stage voice: “LISTEN! I’M THE ICE RINK MANAGER. THERE ARE NO FISH HERE!”

They freeze, look around realizing their mistake and run off stage.

4. THE AMAZING BRUCE, OLYMPIC BLANKET FLYER

SETTING: Open space, with people in a circle pretending to hold an invisible blanket
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Leader, six blanket holders
PROPS NEEDED: None (invisible props)

SKIT:

Leader: “We are the world-renowned Olympic Blanket Flying Team here to perform a campfire skit! And here’s Bruce, our star bouncer!”

They pretend to toss invisible Bruce lightly into the air. The blanket holders’ eyes appear to track him as he goes up and then back down.

Leader: “Alright, higher! One, two, THREE!”

The leader repeats this a few times, with the blanket holders appearing to throw Bruce higher each time. Finally, the leader pauses and pretends to be listening to Bruce saying something.

Leader: “Ladies and gentleman, Bruce wants to go for the world record! Let’s hear it for Bruce!”

The leader encourages the audience to clap and cheer. On the count of three, the blanket holders pretend to throw Bruce really high in the sky. The blanket holders point above the trees as if they’re tracking him, pretending to eventually lose sight of him.

Leader (shrugs): “Oh well, he’ll come down eventually.”

The leader and blanket holders exit the stage, leaving the audience hanging. Later in the campfire program, after a few additional skits or songs, the leader rushes back on to the stage.

Leader (shouting): “BRUCE! He’s coming back! Everybody get ready!”

The blanket holders rush to form a circle with their pretend blanket and “catch” Bruce. Everyone celebrates as the audience cheers.

5. CLEAN SOCKS SKIT

SETTING: A quartermaster is standing with a pile of socks on stage
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Quartermaster, four Scouts
PROPS NEEDED: A pile of socks

SKIT:

Quartermaster: “Hey, everybody, the new Scout socks have arrived! Come and get them!”

The other Scouts run onto the stage and form a line to get their socks.

Quartermaster: “Alright, how many socks do you need?”

Scout 1: “I need two pairs. I wear one all week while the other is in the hamper.”

Quartermaster (cringing): “Yuck! Oh well, here you go.”

The Scout gets two pairs of socks and walks away. The next Scout steps up to the quartermaster.

Quartermaster: “How many do you need?”

Scout 2: “Four pairs. I change them every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday.”

Quartermaster (relieved): “Well, that’s better than wearing one pair all week. Here you go. Next!”

Scout 3: “I need seven pairs.”

Quartermaster (impressed): “Seven? I bet that’s a fresh pair every day, right?”

Scout 3: “You got it!

Quartermaster: “That’s what I like to hear. A clean Scout! Who’s next?”

The final Scout steps forward with a confident smile.

Quartermaster: “And how many socks do YOU need?”

Scout 4: “Twelve pairs, please!”

Quartermaster (surprised): “Twelve, wow! You must really like to keep clean. Why twelve pairs?”

Scout 4: “Well, there’s January, February, March, April, May…”

All Scouts groan as the quartermaster hands over socks.

Looking to write your own funny campfire skits? Get ideas from the Scout Life Think & Grin website with more than 4,000 kid-approved jokes.

6. IS IT TIME YET?

SETTING: People standing or sitting in a line with awkwardly crossed arms and legs
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Several people
PROPS NEEDED: None

SKIT:

Person 1: “Is it time yet?”

Person 2: “Is it time yet?”

Person 3: “Is it time yet?”

The question moves down the line, with each person repeating the question until it reaches the last person.

Last person (loudly): “No!”

The answer passes back up the line from the last person to the first person, with each person repeating “no.” After a few seconds, they repeat the process. Each person asks the question again, and the last person replies “no.” The answer again passes back up the line to the first person.

Finally, after a long pause:

First person (urgently): “IS IT TIME YET?”

The question moves down the line for a third time, with each person repeating the question until it reaches the last person.

Last person: “YES!”

The word gets passed back up the line quickly, and then all the people simultaneously uncross their legs and arms and cross them the other way.

7. BROKEN FINGER SKIT

SETTING: Two Scouts are onstage
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Two Scouts
PROPS NEEDED: None

SKIT:

Scout 1: “Hey, you’re good with first aid. I really need your help.”

Scout 2: “What’s wrong?”

Scout 1: “When I touch my forehead, it really hurts.”

Scout 1 demonstrates by touching their forehead and wincing in pain.

Scout 1: “And when I press on my jaw, it’s also painful.”

Scout 1 touches their jaw and cries out in pain.

Scout 2: “That sounds like something is really wrong. Does anything else hurt?”

Scout 1: “Yeah, when I push on my stomach, it hurts so bad I almost cry.”

Scout 1 pushes on their stomach and looks like they are in agony.

Scout 2: “Let me take a look.”

Scout 2 examines Scout 1, listens to the heart, looks in the ear and has them open their mouth. Scout 2 looks very concerned.

Scout 2: “Well, I don’t know … this seems serious. You better see a doctor.”

Scout 1 nods and staggers offstage.

After a brief pause, Scout 1 returns looking relieved.

Scout 2: “So what did the doctor say? What’s wrong with you?”

Scout 1: “The doctor says … I have a broken finger!”

Scout 2 shakes their head as they both exit.

8. SECOND LANGUAGE

SETTING: A group of people standing together. One is wearing a sign that says “Mother Mouse,” and the others are wearing signs that say “Mouse Children.”
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Cat, Mother Mouse, several Mouse Children
PROPS NEEDED: Signs labeled “Mother Mouse,” “Cat” and “Mouse Children”

SKIT:

Scene begins with Mother Mouse leading her Mouse Children on a walk. A cat enters suddenly, blocking their path. The Mouse Children freeze in fear.

Cat (threatening): “I’m going to eat you!”

Mother Mouse (in a loud voice): “Bowwow! Bowwow! Bark! Ruff! Arf arf arf! Woof!”

Cat reacts with shock and fear. It quickly backs up and runs away.

Mouse Children (in unison): “Mom, we were so scared! You saved us!”

Mother Mouse: “That’s why it pays to learn a second language!”

9. THE VIPER IS COMING!

SETTING: This funny campfire skit only needs some open space
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Four people, Viper
PROP NEEDED: Napkin or rag

SKIT:

One by one, the people rush in, warning about the Viper.

Person 1: “The Viper is coming!”

Person 2: “Here comes the Viper! Call for help!”

Person 3: “Watch out! The Viper is on its way!”

Person 4: “The Viper is almost here! Save yourselves!”

Finally, the Viper enters, calm and casual, holding the rag.

Viper: “Hello! I’m the Viper! Vere’s the vindows? I’ve come to vipe them clean!”

10. THE LOST QUARTER

SETTING: A streetlamp onstage. One person can pretend to be the streetlamp by standing with their arm up holding a flashlight. Another person is obviously searching for something under the lamp.
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Four people, streetlamp person
PROPS NEEDED: Flashlight

SKIT:

Person 1 is searching the ground under the “streetlamp.” After a few moments, Person 2 and 3 join in the search. Person 4 then approaches the group.

Person 4: “Hey, what are you looking for?”

Person 1: “A coin that I lost.”

Person 2: “He lost a quarter.”

Person 4: “Ok, I’ll help.”

Person 4 kneels down and helps search for the quarter. Everyone is searching the same spot of ground.

Person 4 (after a few moments of searching): “Where exactly did you lose the quarter?”

Person 1 (pointing far away): “Way over there.”

Person 4 (confused): “Then why are you looking here?”

Person 1 (with confidence): “Because the light is better over here!”

The group stops, groans in realization and exits the stage shaking their heads.

Do you have a favorite funny campfire skit? Tell us about it in the comments!

"10 Funny Campfire Skits" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Cooking with a camping stove offers many advantages: They’re reliable, convenient and allow you to be more self-sufficient. Camping stoves use different types of fuel. Propane is the most popular, but other stoves use fuels like white gas and denatured alcohol. Scouting America recommends you do not use liquid alcohol fuels, including isopropyl alcohol, denatured ethyl alcohol and ethanol.

Camping stoves can come as small single-burners, perfect for a backpacking trek, or large double-burner setups, which work best when car camping. Consider how you’ll use your stove before buying.

CAMPING STOVE SAFETY RULES

When using a camping stove, follow these safety rules:

• Always read the manufacturer’s instructions before using a stove, and be sure to follow them. Use only fuels that are in accordance with the instructions, and do not modify the equipment beyond its design limitations.

• Never use a stove inside or near a tent or under a dining fly.

• Don’t overload the stove, and never leave a stove unattended.

• Let the stove cool completely before changing fuel canisters or putting it away.

• Keep all propane canisters away from sources of heat, even if they are empty.

• When changing canisters, or if you suspect a problem, test for fuel leakage by using a solution of 1 tablespoon of dish soap mixed with 1 cup of water. Lightly sprinkle the soap-water solution over the connection and fittings between the propane canister or tank and the stove. If you see bubbles from any connection, turn off and disconnect the propane canister or tank and reconnect properly.

"How to Safely Use a Camping Stove" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: I’m going whitewater rafting. I’m wondering about footwear for in the raft and out of the water.

— John, Houston, Texas

A: For boating and dynamic activities like whitewater rafting, you’ll want something that’ll securely stay on your feet. Shop for water shoes. They look like regular sneakers but often include quick-drying mesh, draining holes, tough rubber soles and lock-lace systems to tighten around your feet. The Teva Outflow Universal water shoe ($110, teva.com) uses three adjustable straps so you can get the right fit. One plus for closed-toe water shoes with more enclosed uppers is that they can double as hiking shoes for short, light hikes.

Depending on where and when you go, the water can get pretty chilly. Consider also wearing wool or neoprene socks to keep your feet warm.

"What Kind of Footwear for Whitewater Rafting?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

On your next hike, take a pair of binoculars so you can study wildlife that’s far away. With the Pentax Papilio II ($109, us.ricoh-imaging.com), you can observe close-up wildlife, too.

The high-performance Papilio II uses a mechanism that slides the objective lenses to allow for clear, sharp viewing at less than 2 feet away. This lets you observe insects and plants without disturbing them. With a turn of the focus wheel, you can dial in on birds, mammals and other scenery.

Binoculars have two magnification numbers: the first is the magnification power and the second is the size of the objective lens in millimeters. The Papilio II is sold in 6.5×21 and 8.5×21, meaning it can increase your view by 6.5 or 8.5 times.

The binoculars’ soft rubber exterior lets you get a good grip, and the compact size makes it easy to pack and carry.

"Stuff We Like: Papilio II Binoculars" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

The more you use rope, the more it frays. If you whip and fuse rope, you can make one of the most important tools in Scouting last a little longer.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Frayed rope
• At least 10 inches of string, dental floss or thin twine
• Scissors
• A lighter, match or candle

HOW TO WHIP THE END OF A ROPE

For natural-fiber rope like sisal or cotton, you’ll whip the rope.

1. Cut off the part of the rope that is unraveling.

2. Cut a piece of strong string, dental floss or thin twine at least 8-10 inches long. Make a loop and place it on one end of the rope.

3. Wrap the string tightly around the rope several times.

4. When the whipping is as wide as the rope is thick, slip the end through the loop.

5. Pull the string ends tightly and cut them off.

HOW TO FUSE THE END OF A ROPE

For synthetic materials like nylon, fuse the rope. Rope and cord made from plastic or nylon will melt when exposed to high heat.

1. Cut away the frayed part of the rope.

2. Working in a well-ventilated area, hold each end of the rope a few inches above a lighter, match or candle to melt and fuse the strands together.

3. Let it cool off for a few minutes.

Be careful: Melted nylon is hot and sticky, so don’t touch the end until it’s completely cool.

"How to Whip and Fuse the Ends of Rope" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Birdwatching can be a fun pastime. More than 800 species of birds migrate across or breed in North America. They range from the massive California condor with a wingspan of 9 feet to the tiny calliope hummingbird, which measures about 3 inches long. You’ll find some birds almost everywhere, while others live only in certain places.

It can be exciting to find a rare species. Studying habitats increases your odds for finding birds. Specific species have preferred food sources and hiding and nesting areas. Some birds make parks and backyards their homes, while others gravitate toward marshlands or mountains.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Binoculars: Look for a pair that is waterproof, is comfortable in your hand and has at least 8x magnification. You can borrow some until you’re ready to buy your own.

• Field guide: A bird guide will help you identify what you’re seeing. There’s information about specific birds, bird families, migration patterns and much more. You could also try a birding app to see which species have recently been spotted in your state. Some smartphone apps can help identify birds by their calls.

• A notebook and pencil to keep a log of all the species you find.

HEADING OUT TO GO BIRDWATCHING

1. Use your bird guide, smartphone app or an online resource to research birds you’d like to find in your area.

2. Start in your own backyard, or head to a nearby park with lots of trees and plenty of open space. When in parks or wildlife refuges, stay on the trails and observe from a distance so you don’t disturb nests. The best time to go is early in the morning or late in the afternoon when many species are most active.

3. Move slowly and quietly, listening carefully. Find a place to sit or stand that has a good view of everything around you. Look around for birds.

4. Once you spot a bird, study it. Find the most obvious detail about it. White wings? Yellow markings? Big crest? Write down what you observe, including the bird’s color, size, shape, sounds and habits. You can also take a photo or try drawing the birds for future reference. Those details will help you identify them. As you spend more time birding, you’ll be able to identify birds more quickly and easily.

5. Use your notebook or an app to keep a log of all the species you find.

6. You’re officially birdwatching, so you’re a birder. Keep at it! The more often you go out, the more you’ll discover.

WHY BIRDING?

Birdwatching can be a fun hobby that brings you closer to nature. In fact, birding is one of the country’s fastest-growing hobbies, with more than 65 million Americans actively involved.

Many of the most important scientific discoveries about birds were made by amateur birders. Get out there and make your own valuable contribution to science. You can also earn the Bird Study merit badge, by which you’ll identify at least 20 species of wild birds. Find a counselor to get started.

"How to Get Started Birdwatching" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Your backpack and boots are the two pieces of gear you’ll use the most on the trail.

“A pack that fits poorly can make or break your trip,” says Ryan Wichelns, editor-in-chief of Trails Magazine, a lifelong backpacker and former Scout from Stillwater, New York.

“Buy one that fits your body and your gear.”

When shopping for a backpacking pack, the most important thing is to try some packs to see what works, he says. A pack might look cool online but be a bad fit. Everybody is shaped differently. To get the right size, measure your torso length and hip size.

Backpacking experts Ryan Wichelns and Jenn Cadorette.

THE RIGHT FIT

An expert at your local outdoor shop can help you find the best backpack. Some outdoor shops also sell used packs. If you can find one in good shape that fits, a used pack can be a great way to save a few bucks.

Put some weight in a pack and walk around the store for a few minutes. You’ll start to notice what fits your back, shoulders and hips best. Many backpacks have adjustable torso length. That is great for people who are still growing.

The weight of a loaded pack should rest on your hips, not pull on your shoulders. Once your pack is on, watch out. Your hip belt can slide down and compress your butt, back and leg muscles, which keeps them from working right.

“Hip muscles come up higher than you think,” says Jenn Cadorette, a physical therapist and thru-hiker. “Put your hands on your waist and find your hip bones. Your backpack hip belt should stay on those bones.”

PACKING YOUR BACKPACK

How you pack your backpack is as critical as your pack’s fit.

“Pack your heaviest gear close to your back,” Cadorette says. “That will help you stay balanced when you’re hiking.”

Packs are measured in liters. For backpacking, you’ll likely need a pack that’s 35 liters or larger. Buy a pack that’s big enough to carry what you need, but not one that’s too big, or you’ll carry extra pack weight and be tempted to overload.

A versatile pack will have lash points for strapping gear on the outside, though you first want to focus on the inside. For winter backpacking, you’ll need more space for a warmer sleeping bag, extra food and clothing. Less weight is easier and more fun to walk with, but every backpacker must decide what non essential to bring and what to leave at home.

Check Scout Life’s outdoor essential checklists at go.scoutlife.org/essentials

Our favorite backpacks have features that make hiking easier. Hip belt pockets let you grab snacks, your phone and sunscreen without stopping. If your pack doesn’t come with one, you can get one that slides over your belt.

A good pack also lets you drink without taking off the pack, whether it’s a built-in space for a hydration reservoir or easy-to-reach place for a water bottle. The pack should have at least one pocket to organize gear you want to access fast, like water treatment gear, pocketknife and flashlight.

Another nice feature is a lid — or a “brain,” as Wichelns calls it — that can fully unclip so you can easily take your essentials with you into your tent instead of bringing in the whole pack.

Once you’re home, empty and dry your pack. Spot wash the pack with dishwashing soap and a sponge. Maintain your gear, and it’ll last longer.

THE BEST BACKPACKS

Granite Gear Perimeter 50

The Granite Gear Perimeter 50 ($250, granitegear.com) is a simple minimalist pack with loads of great features. The adjustable torso and hip belt fit many people and make the pack one you can grow into. It comes in regular and long torso lengths. The padded, contoured hip belt has big pockets for your gear. Granite Gear’s suspension system is comfy, with articulated, adjustable shoulder straps. The rolltop pack has two stuff pockets on the front and a zippered lid. A bottom flap holds your sleeping pad or tent. A zippered pocket in the flap stores your wet rainfly away from your other gear. Everything else goes in the main compartment. Once your pack is loaded, compression straps cinch it down so you can use this pack comfortably for weekend hikes or bigger projects, like a thru-hike. The Perimeter will last a long time; it’s made from Robic high-tenacity nylon, which is 50% stronger than regular nylon.

Forclaz MT900 UL 50+50L

At 2.9 lbs. and 60 liters, the ultra-versatile Forclaz MT900 UL 50+10L ($189, decathlon.com) is one of the most affordable large-capacity packs. With seven pockets, a hydration reservoir sleeve and clips for trekking poles, it’s ready for any trip. The MT900 lets you access gear through the top or the full side-zip. It’s a great pack for sweaty hikers because a mesh hammock lifts it off your back for airflow, and the shoulder straps and hip belt are highly perforated and covered in mesh for maximum airflow. Side cinching cords take some time to get used to, but ample lashing points and an included rain cover made this pack a top choice. So does the 10-year warranty.

REI Kid’s Tarn

You might find a kid’s pack fits you better than a pack sized for adults. The REI Kid’s Tarn ($119-$165, rei.com) has the quality and features of an adult pack but in sizes made for kids. The 40-liter version, weighing 2 lbs., 10 ounces, is for torsos down to 12 inches. It has enough internal space to suit smaller kids. For bigger kids and longer trips, the 65-liter Tarn, at 3 lbs., 14 oz., has a traditional design with a zippered sleeping bag compartment and top access. The 65-liter pack has dual oversized water bottle pockets, a hydration sleeve and a vented front shove pocket. Its removable lid has backpack straps, so you can leave your big pack behind for short hikes. This pack’s hip belt has a stiffener and thick foam to take the bite out of carrying a heavy load. The harness uses channeled foam for airflow to keep you from getting too sweaty.

Kelty Asher 55

The Kelty Asher 55 ($139, kelty.com), at 3 lbs., 2 oz., has many of the same features as more expensive packs: an adjustable torso, big water bottle pockets, separate sleeping bag access and front-of-the-pack places for strapping overflow gear, but it doesn’t have a removable lid or hip belt pockets. Still, it’s great if you’re on a tight budget. The broad hip belt and airflow back also make this a great first pack.

Nomad RT 50

With a roll-top design, the Nomad RT 50 ($230, alpsmountaineering.com) allows you to compress or expand your pack’s main compartment volume, increasing your overall space to 60 liters or pressing it down to 40 liters. At nearly 5 lbs., the pack is covered in straps and attachment points for fastening gear. This pack comes in 38- and 75-liter versions, too. ALPS Mountaineering offers gear discounts exclusive to Scouts through its Hiker Direct program. For the RT 50 pack, Scouts can get up to 40% off through the program.

BSA Mountaineer 70L backpack

If you have a long gear checklist, the BSA Mountaineer 70L backpack ($120, scoutshop.org) has room to fit all your gear. This 4 lb., 70-liter pack features designated spaces for your sleeping bag, hydration bladder and gear you need to access quickly. You’ll have plenty of storage with its outside mesh pockets, easy-access side pockets and hip belt pockets — plus there’s a place to attach your trekking poles. The pack is designed to feel lighter with its reinforced lumbar support system and adjustable straps.

"Pick the Best Backpack With These Expert Buying Tips" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: Why use a hiking stick?

— Nicola, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

A: A hiking stick is a great tool for the trail as it helps you keep your balance on rough and sloped terrain. Plus, it takes pressure off your knees and back — something you’ll value the longer you hike.

You can make your own hiking stick. One disadvantage? A wooden hiking stick can’t grow with you, so you might consider trekking poles. Often made of lightweight aluminum or carbon fiber, they can slide to different lengths.

For example, Kelty Range 2.0 poles ($60, kelty.com) can extend from 35 to 54 inches. To find the right length, adjust the poles so your arms make a 90-degree angle with your elbow bent when you grab the grips. Many trekking poles come with wrist straps, and Kelty’s are padded to add comfort.

You can also attach baskets to the bottoms of your poles to keep them from sinking in mud or snow. The Leki Sherpa poles ($160, leki.com) come with two pairs of baskets that are easy to twist on and off when you encounter new terrain.

"What are the Advantages to Using a Hiking Stick?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

If you’ve never seen cicadas, you’ve definitely heard them. These chunky, bulgy-eyed, large-winged insects have an ear-splitting sound.

The cicada (say: suh-KAA-duh or suh-KAY-duh) is a bug that people either love or hate. We fall into the love category, knowing their rhythmic songs are a sure sign of summer.

CICADAS JOURNEY FROM GROUND TO SURFACE

There are more than 3,000 species of cicadas worldwide, with about 170 species in the U.S. Cicadas live in temperate or tropical regions of all continents except Antarctica. Most are in forested areas and rely on trees for survival. A few species inhabit prairies or grasslands.

Most are an inch or two long, but the smallest in North America is the 1/2-inch aridland cicada in the Southwest. The largest cicada in the world lives in Southeast Asia, is 3 inches long and has an 8-inch wingspan!

Cicadas live most of their lives underground in their immature stage, called a nymph. They feed on liquid from plant roots, but they don’t cause much harm to the plants. As adults, they still have only a liquid diet of plant sap. After their nymph stage is over, they burrow up through the ground to the surface.

After crawling to find a solid object to climb, such as a tree, fence or car tire (anything touching the ground is fair game!), they begin to molt, which takes about an hour. Their skin cracks open and the new adult crawls out, with big, strong wings. You might have seen their husky brown skins left behind.

Periodical cicadas have the longest life cycle of any insect.

SING OUT LOUD

Cicadas typically live only four to six weeks, so they have to get noticed fast to mate. The best way to do that is by being loud! Males sing, or drum, from trees to attract females. The loudest of the bunch is an African cicada, coming in at 107 decibels — almost as loud as a chainsaw! Several North American species are nearly as loud. They make this sound with structures called tymbal organs, located on their abdomen. There is space around these organs where the air vibrates to make sounds.

The males also drum when in danger. Cicadas are harmless. They don’t bite or sting and they don’t have venom or poison, so their only defense is screaming loudly. This is a response to make a predator leave or drop them. If you approach a tree when a cicada is singing, it will typically get quiet, but if you pick it up, you’ll get an earful!

Annual cicada

CICADA MAGIC

Most cicadas are what biologists call annual cicadas. These live only 1 to 5 years, mostly underground. The few remaining species are called periodical cicadas, which come out of the ground in huge numbers.

Worldwide, there are only seven species of periodical cicadas, found solely in the eastern and central U.S. These live for many years underground — in periods of 13 or 17 years — before emerging. There are 15 different cycles or “broods” of periodical cicadas. Each brood can be made up of several species.

Scientists aren’t sure why periodical cicadas have this odd life cycle, but it might be due to long periods of cold thousands of years ago. In addition, the range map of the 17-year broods matches closely with glacier movements of the last Ice Age. Why periodical cicadas still follow these patterns today is unknown. Maybe it makes it less likely that predators will anticipate when there is an eruption. Regardless of why, periodical cicadas’ life cycle is so amazing that biologists placed them in the genus Magicicada. Indeed, they are magical!

By creating a surge of millions or even billions at one time, emerging all at once gives periodical broods a big advantage. This overwhelms predators and makes it impossible for all the cicadas to be eaten, ensuring plenty survive to reproduce.

If there are no periodical cicadas where you live, don’t fret! There are many annual species in your area. Just keep an ear out for their drumming. Different species have different sounds that can be learned, just like bird songs. Getting to know cicadas is a great way to introduce yourself to the amazing world of insects!

2024 Cicadapocalypse!

In 2024 there has been a special emergence of two broods of periodical cicadas (13- and 17-year) in parts of the U.S. The last time these two broods — Brood XIX and Brood XIII — erupted at the same time was in 1803, when Thomas Jefferson was president!

There are an incredible number of periodical cicadas around. Biologists predict there could be a trillion. Some are even calling this event a “cicadapocalypse”!

4 FAST FACTS ABOUT CICADAS

1. Some places might have so many cicadas that people have to shovel the carcasses from roads! This happened in Chicago 17 years ago when Brood XIII last emerged.

Green leafhopper

2. Cicadas are not locusts, which are a type of grasshopper. Cicadas are most closely related to leafhoppers, treehoppers and spittlebugs, although much larger.

3. Periodical cicadas are somewhat smaller and darker than annuals and have bright red eyes. Annuals are typically more green and brown overall with greenish to brownish eyes.

4. A main predator of cicadas is the cicada-killer wasp. The females paralyze and carry off live cicadas to their burrows, where larvae feed on them. You might see one of these wasps dragging a stunned cicada. Watch long enough and you might find the entrance to their several-foot-long burrows.

Bats and birds are their specialties, but wildlife biologists Selena Birgit Kiser and Mark Kiser love all species of critters. Both have worked for the State of Florida and previously worked for Bat Conservation International on such programs as the Great Florida Birding and Wildlife Trail and the North American Bat House Research Project.

"Cicadas: Making Summer Magical" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Chiggers are a summertime scourge. Here is helpful advice for how to treat itchy chigger bites, and expert tips for preventing and avoiding these annoying red bugs.

When you’re in the outdoors, you might also want to know how to avoid mosquitoes, ticks, stinging caterpillars and other itchy hazards.

WHAT ARE CHIGGERS?

Red bugs, chiggers, berry bugs, scrub-itch mites and harvest mites are all terms used to describe members of the family of insects known as Trombiculidae. These reddish-orange mites can be found worldwide, but they really enjoy hanging out in damp, grassy and wooded areas, especially at the edges of forests.

In the United States, chiggers are mostly found in the southeast, south and midwest. They are most active from early spring to early autumn, until the first frost.

HOW DO CHIGGERS BITE US?

Chigger larvae infest humans by crawling up our shoes and legs as we make our way through the scrub.

What’s kind of cool is that chiggers do not actually bite us. Likewise, they do not burrow into our skin, and they do not suck our blood. Instead, chiggers use their mouths to drill tiny holes into our skin through which they secrete specialized salivary enzymes designed to break down our skin cells from the inside. Then, the chiggers slurp up the mixture through a tube formed by hardened skin cells called a stylosome.

Basically, it’s like drinking a big “YOU” protein shake!

Your skin does not take too kindly to all of this drilling and parasitic digestion by chiggers. Consequently, humans typically develop intensely itchy, bright red pimple-like bumps or hives or a generalized skin rash in the areas where the mites were attached, even up to 24 to 48 hours after exposure.

Chiggers prefer to attach to skin at areas where the clothing fits tightly against the body, such as at the tops of socks or around the elastic edges of underwear, so a rash in these areas may be a clue to the specific cause.

HOW DO YOU TREAT CHIGGER BITES?

So, what can you do for a chigger bites or rashes? First, forget the old myth of applying fingernail polish to the affected areas. Chiggers do NOT burrow into the skin, so trying to suffocate the chiggers with polish makes no sense at all. Second, chiggers do not lay eggs in the skin, so stop worrying about that.

Chigger bites or wounds are a complex mixture of mechanical damage to the skin (the drilling), enzymatic disruption of the skin (the digestion), and your body’s own attempt to get rid of the parasite. Consequently, the most important thing to do is to prevent chigger infestation.

HOW DO YOU AVOID CHIGGERS?

Avoid camping in warm, moist temperate climates of high mammal density, including livestock pastures, with tall grass.

If the area is infested, get out of there quickly and wash your skin vigorously with soap and water. Itching is best alleviated through the use of topical corticosteroids (either over-the-counter hydrocortisone 1% ointment or prescription strength from your physician) and anti-histamines like Benadryl.

Watch out for severe chigger rashes that can become secondarily infected with bacteria; in these cases, consult a doctor immediately.

Now you know a “mitey” bit more about chiggers than you did before!

"How Do You Prevent and Treat Chigger Bites?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: I don’t like camping when there are a lot of bugs. What can I do?
— Harper, Baton Rouge, Louisiana

A: The best way to avoid pesky insects is to avoid places where they thrive. Camping away from wet, low-lying areas where bugs often breed reduces your chances of getting eaten up.

The next best way is to get some gear. Use insect repellents containing DEET or picaridin, which can effectively fend off biting insects. The BSA recommends DEET register at a 20-30% concentration and picaridin at a 20% concentration. Repellents with permethrin, which you can find at the Scout Shop, can be sprayed on your clothes.

Wear a long-sleeved shirt and long pants to cover up exposed skin. Consider wearing a head net if bugs start swarming.

You can also try repellers, like the Thermacell E55 ($40, thermacell.com) or the portable Thermacell MR300 ($25, thermacell.com). Each uses a heat-activated repellent that disperses around the device, creating a mosquito-deterring zone of at least 15 feet. The rechargeable E55 holds cartridges that can last 12, 36 or 120 hours, while the MR300 uses a cartridge and mats that, together, can also provide 12 hours of protection.

"What Can I Do To Avoid Bugs When Camping?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Strike your knife against a piece of flint, and you create a spark to start a fire. Don’t have a piece of flint? No worries if you have the 5.11 Ferro Knife ($32, 511tactical.com), a stainless-steel blade with an integrated Ferro rod.

This 2-inch blade has a 3-inch handle that fits comfortably in your hand, and if you want to use it to ignite some tinder, pull out the Ferro rod that stores in the handle. A Ferro rod is made of a combination of metals and chemical elements that spark when scratched.

The knife also comes with a sheath and wrist lanyard to easily carry it around. Remember to follow pocketknife safety rules; knives are tools, not toys. Get properly trained before you carry one.

"Stuff We Like: 5.11 Ferro Knife" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

When you’re scuba diving, you obviously can’t talk to others underwater. That’s why it’s important to know hand signals so you can communicate. They’re helpful both above and below the surface. Here are a few that you will learn as part of a Scuba BSA experience:

“Stop”: Hand up, palm facing the person you’re communicating with.

“OK”: Make the letter “O” with your thumb and index finger. If you’re wearing a glove, use your four fingers to make an “O” by touching them to your thumb. This is not interchangeable with a thumbs-up.

“Go up”: Make a thumbs-up and motion upward.

“Go down”: Make a thumbs-down.

“Level off at this depth”: Place your hand flat with your palm down and move your hand side to side.

“Buddy up”: Form fists, extend your index fingers and hold those fingers side by side.

“Go that way”: Make a thumbs-up and gesture with your thumb pointing in the direction of travel. This can also be communicated by holding your hand flat with your palm facing the side with all five fingers pointing in the specific direction.

“Low on air”: Place a closed fist against your chest.

“Out of air”: Make a cutting motion across your neck.

“Share air”: Make a flat hand and motion back and forth between your mouth and your buddy’s mouth.

"How to Communicate Underwater When Scuba Diving" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: I need to replace my old lantern. Any suggestions?
— Kail, Des Moines, Iowa

A: Lanterns are great lighting options, especially when conditions are not ideal for a campfire. Camping lanterns usually run off propane or batteries.

Each produces a specific amount of light, measured in lumens. The higher the lumens, the brighter the light will be. Depending on how you’ll be camping dictates what kind of lantern you should get.

Lanterns with different brightness settings, like the Dorcy LifeGear Multi-Mode Lantern ($50, dorcy.com), allow you to adjust the amount of light. It features two settings at 500 and 250 lumens, plenty of light when you’re car camping. It’s also rechargeable by built-in solar panel or USB. Flip the lantern on its side, pick it up by the sturdy plastic grip and turn on the built-in spotlight, and you’ve got a more powerful beam to use while walking around a dark campsite.

If you’re going on a trek, get a smaller lantern that’s easy to pack. MPOWERD makes inflatable lanterns that fold down, some of which you can find at the Scout Shop. I recently tried out their Luci Base Light ($60, scoutshop.org). It has three brightness settings, going as high as 360 lumens. A built-in solar panel can recharge its battery while a USB port can recharge your devices.

"Good Replacement for an Old Lantern?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

The underwater world is magical. With snorkel or scuba gear, you can observe fish, coral and other aquatic life in this wondrous environment.

Snorkeling offers the most affordable and accessible way to explore, and with some basic gear, anyone can do it. California-based scuba instructor Darrick Cusick has dived in almost every state. He says you can get started in snorkeling for less than $150.

“Save your allowance, and make sure you enjoy the activity before you invest,” says Cusick, a master scuba diver trainer.

Scuba diving requires certification and costly specialized gear, most of which you’ll want to rent until you’ve stopped growing.

Review the Scuba BSA program, which details the safety and training you’ll need to do this advanced aquatic activity. You can try it at some council camps or Sea Base, the BSA high-adventure base in Florida. Your unit can dive independently, but only under the supervision of adults with a divemaster or higher rating.

SNORKELING GEAR

A good mask lets you see underwater. Use a traditional mask, not a full-face version. To test if a mask fits, press it against your face without using the head strap and breathe in through your nose. The mask should suction to your face. No air should seep in around the seal once it’s suctioned on. If air comes in, water will, too. Cusick recommends the CRESSI FRAMELESS ZS1 or Z1 (both $60, cressiusa.com), depending on your face size.

Next, you need a snorkel, which is a tube with a mouthpiece, to help you breathe when your face is in the water. The mouthpiece goes in your mouth, and the tube clips into a holder attached to your mask so the tube’s end can stick out of the water.

Dry snorkels are the most user-friendly, because they don’t let water in — even if a wave washes over your head or you dive underwater. Try the BLUE REEF CORTES DRY SNORKEL ($15, scuba.com).

Fins propel you through the water. Cusick says to keep it simple with adjustable strap fins that are light, 18 inches or less, and easy to move. One good option is the TUSA SNORKELING FIN ($40, tusa.com).

In tropical waters, a bathing suit and T-shirt or rash guard to prevent sunburn are all you need.

For colder water, use a warm-when-wet insulating wetsuit. The thicker the wetsuit, the warmer it is. When the water measures between 60° and 75°F, use a 4- to 6-millimeter wetsuit. For 45- to 60-degree water, choose a 7mm wetsuit. In water colder than that, you’ll need a dry suit and other cold water-specific gear.

Full wetsuits are ankle length with full arms. “Shorties” — great for warmer water — have short sleeves and legs. Cusick recommends HENDERSON WETSUITS, which are available in kids’ and adult sizes (starting at $73, depending on style and size, hendersonusa.com).

SCUBA DIVING GEAR

For scuba diving, you’ll need a buoyancy compensator device (BCD) and air tanks. You’ll also need a regulator, which is the mouthpiece you breathe through underwater. Most new divers rent these on location as well as other equipment. And, most important, you’ll have to take an open-water diver certification course, which is part of the Scuba Diving merit badge.

"How to Buy Snorkeling Gear for an Underwater Adventure" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: I’m nervous about my first overnight campout. I’m scared I’ll get homesick, but I really want to go. How should I handle it?

A: Reminds me of the first time I went scuba diving: I was absolutely terrified. But the wise guide said, “Once you get underwater and see all the pretty fish, you’ll forget all about being scared.” He was so right, and the same thing applies here.

Being away from home overnight is scary. But once you get out there and start hiking and swimming and trading jokes and cooking s’mores, you’ll forget all about it. Focus on the fun rather than the fear, and you’ll always win.

It’s totally normal to feel nervous going into any new situation. One thing that might help is to invite a friend over to do a dry run in the backyard — pitch a tent, lay out your sleeping bags, and bring comic books and lots of games!

Spending the night out there without Mom or Dad will give you a little boost in camping confidence — and hopefully get you excited to head out into the woods with your unit.

"How to Overcome Nervousness About First Campout" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Lurking in the vegetation, a brown feline with dark spots and stripes sits, camouflaged from approaching hikers. It’s early morning, and the bobcat would like to get in another round of hunting before going back to her den for a nap. The loud group passes the unseen cat, never suspecting that such a magnificent mammal is so close, just watching and waiting for them to go by.

COMMON BUT SECRETIVE

Found from southern Canada to Mexico, including all 48 contiguous states except one (sorry, Delaware!), bobcats (Lynx rufus) are the most common and abundant wild cats in North America. However, many people never see one, as they are quite secretive and are usually more active from dusk to dawn.

These small- to medium-sized felines, weighing 10 to 40 pounds (males are larger), are superb at hiding and stalking, making them excellent hunters. Like other cats, they are carnivores (meat-eaters) and prefer small mammals like rabbits and rodents. They also hunt small reptiles and amphibians, birds and even insects. Eggs are fair game, as are the remains of deer and other animals.

Although bobcats are named because of their short tail (2 to 8 inches long), all cats in the genus Lynx (four species worldwide) share this trait. A long tail isn’t necessary for bobcats like it is for cheetahs, whose long tails help with balance at high speeds. Bobcats don’t do high-speed chases. Instead, they typically hunt from ground level, quietly stalking prey.

Large paws help in jumping, climbing and staying quiet. Large ears and prominent ear tufts help bobcats hear extremely well. They can hear small animals moving in grasses, under snow or in leaf litter, and they can also see well, relying less on scent for hunting.

SUPER MOMS

Bobcat moms typically give birth in spring or early summer to three kittens (after about a two-month pregnancy), and, like most other cats, they take care of their young with no help from the father. Bobcat mothers usually have several dens and move around with their kittens to keep them safe. Not staying in one place too long keeps the bobcats’ scent from getting too strong and attracting predators.

Dens might be inside hollow trees, in caves, under large rocks or in thick vegetation. The kittens stay with mom for eight months to a year, eventually learning how to hunt and what to eat. Bobcats can live up to 12 years in the wild. Adults are solitary and territorial, and tolerate each other only during mating, which typically occurs in winter and spring.

LUCKY ENCOUNTERS

If you’re very quiet outdoors, you might get lucky and see a bobcat. We’ll never forget one of our closest encounters, which occurred in the Rio Grande Valley in Texas. We just felt that someone was watching us while we were hiking, so we stopped. Sure enough, a bobcat was staring at us from behind some vegetation. After a short moment, he slowly walked off into the woods. We weren’t worried about our safety, as bobcats rarely get aggressive toward humans. We’ve even had one appear at our property in Florida, just sitting out in the open, grooming like a house cat!

Although bobcat numbers are relatively stable, some areas are still losing habitat quickly, and in these regions, bobcats are disappearing or are moving into less ideal locales, such as suburbs or other developed places. Bobcats need a large area to live, as ranges extend up to 20 square miles or more for males. So it’s still important to make sure we keep large, wild areas set aside for them and other wildlife.

4 Fast Facts About Bobcats

1. BOBCATS ARE BIG IN SOME NATIVE AMERICAN CULTURES. Tribes with bobcat clans include the Creek and the Chickasaw. To the Pawnee, the bobcat symbolizes a connection between Earth and the stars. Parents wrapped their babies in bobcat fur to bring celestial blessings. The Zunis made stone figures of bobcats to bring good luck during hunting.

2. Bobcats live in a WIDE RANGE OF HABITATS, from deserts to forests and swamps.

3. Bobcats may travel up to 7 MILES IN ONE EVENING as they search for food and patrol their territory.

The Canada Lynx

4. THE CANADA LYNX (Lynx canadensis) is a close and slightly larger cousin of the bobcat. It lives in Alaska, Canada, parts of the northern U.S. and the Rocky Mountains south to Colorado. It can spot prey in the dark from 250 feet away.

"Bobcats Are the Cats in Camo" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Sickness-causing microorganisms in the water, called “pathogens,” are top reasons hikers bail on a big trip, says Chris Casserly with Outdoor Gear Exchange, an outdoor sports store in Burlington, Vermont. Casserly has conquered New Hampshire’s 4,000-foot peaks in both summer and winter, and has been camping and backpacking in the Northeast for the last 15 years.

“Take water treatment seriously,” Casserly says. “Getting sick on the trails is no fun.”

Getting diarrhea on the trail is one thing, but some illnesses can linger for months. Most nasty pathogens come from animal poop in the water.

In North America, these nasties include parasites, protozoa and bacteria, like giardia, cryptosporidium, e-coli and salmonella.

HOW TO TREAT WATER

Treat all your water, including melted snow. Don’t assume water is clean, even if it looks clear. Choose your water source carefully. Running water is the best, and a murky puddle is the worst, Casserly says.

Fill your bottle from the middle of the source. Skim the surface with your hand to remove insects, leaves and other floaters. Keep particles down by not disturbing the water as you’re filling up. A rainstorm also stirs up particles in a water source, so avoid gathering water right after a storm.

Runoff is often the dirtiest water. If the water you plan to filter and drink isn’t clear, use a prefilter. Prefilters are available for many water filters.

Boiling water also kills waterborne bad guys. Boil water for one minute at sea level, or for three minutes when you’re above 6,500 feet.

Use hand sanitizer after you treat your water. If you get untreated water on your hands, your hands are now dirty. Keep track of dirty and clean bottles, too. If you fill a dirty water bottle with clean water, the water is dirty and needs to be treated again.

Take good care of your gear. Don’t drop your filter. The impact can crack the filter fibers, preventing water flow.

“Before you hit the trail, test your filter on a bottle filled from your kitchen tap,” Casserly says. “If it’s not flowing or has major leaks, troubleshoot the issue with the manufacturer’s help, or bring the filter to your local shop. If your filter is leaking from the side or if the water isn’t flowing, it might be time to replace your filter cartridge.”

Clean and dry your water treatment gear after you get home from a trip. Most filters come with a backflush option. Backflush your filter with clean water and dry it before you store it.

CHEMICAL TREATMENT

The cheapest and easiest way to kill pathogens in your water is a chemical treatment. You can use iodine or chlorine dioxide, which come in tablets or a liquid added directly to your bottle. Effective brands are POTABLE AQUA ($10 for 50 tablets, pharmacalway.com) or AQUAMIRA ($15 for a 1 oz. bottle, aquamira.com).

Chemical treatments are compact, light and can work in as little as 30 minutes. However, they don’t filter matter from your water, so if your water is cloudy, you should prefilter it.

SQUEEZE FILTERS

Casserly’s favorite water treatment is a squeeze filter like the SAWYER SQUEEZE filtration system ($29, sawyer.com), which screws onto the included flasks or a plastic water bottle. Squeeze filters are ideal for individual use. They’re light and inexpensive, and you can drink the water immediately through the filter.

Another top choice is LIFESTRAW’S PEAK SERIES COLLAPSIBLE SQUEEZE 650 ML BOTTLE WITH FILTER ($38, lifestraw.com), which has a sturdy flask with a filter inside, capable of lasting up to 2,000 liters.

STRAW FILTERS

There’s also the LIFESTRAW PEAK SERIES STRAW ($25, lifestraw.com). Not only does it allow you to drink from the source, but you can also attach it at the end of a hydration hose, screw it onto a standard narrow mouth plastic water bottle or connect it to a gravity filter. But you can’t use it at the water source to easily fill other bottles. Still, it’s a good, light (2.3 oz.) option when you’re backpacking trails with a lot of water along the way.

GRAVITY FILTERS

To filter water for big groups, get a gravity filter. PLATYPUS GRAVITYWORKS ($126 for the 2-liter version, $150 for 6 liters, platy.com) is a hanging system with two bags connected by a hose with an inline filter. Using gravity, water flows from the dirty water bag to the clean, filtered one.

Gravity systems clean large amounts of water and some can filter around 1,500 liters before the filter needs to be replaced.

PUMP FILTERS

Pump filters are best for filtering cloudy water. Most have a prefilter to screen out sediment, which can clog a squeeze filter quickly. Pumps are pricey and heavier, but they’re reliable. Most have a carbon filter that makes water taste better, like the MSR MINIWORKS EX MICROFILTER ($120, msrgear.com) and the KATADYN VARIO FILTER ($120, katadyngroup.com).

If you pack a pump, bring a backup chemical treatment just in case.

UV PURIFIERS

To eliminate viruses in the water, you’ll need a purifier, not just a filter. Viruses are smaller than bacteria, and a filter can’t trap them. Chemical treatments can kill viruses, and so does ultraviolet light, which KATADYN’S STERIPEN ULTRA UV WATER PURIFIER ($130, katadyngroup.com) uses.

With an ultraviolet light purifier, place the tip of the purifier in a liter of water and stir for about 90 seconds. Ultraviolet purification works best in sediment-free water, but its advantage comes in cold weather. In winter, pumps and filters can freeze, but an ultraviolet light purifier won’t.

WATER TREATMENT GLOSSARY

WATER FILTERS use microscopic pores to strain out nasty stuff like bacteria from water sources. For most backcountry trips in the U.S., you don’t need more than a filter.

PRE-FILTERS are used to remove large, visible particles before you start the filtering process — particularly important in cloudy water.

WATER PURIFIERS eliminate bacteria, too, but also use chemicals or ultraviolet light to kill viruses, which are too tiny for most filters to remove. Purifiers become more necessary in the deep backcountry or while traveling to some other countries.

"How to Treat Your Water to Stay Healthy in the Backcountry" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: What’s a decently priced fire starter?
— Neil, Lenexa, Kansas

A: Warmth is one of your top priorities in a survival situation, so a handy, reliable fire starter is a key piece of gear. One of my favorites is a ferro rod striker. It easily fits in a backpack and can be used over and over again. You can find one for about $7 at the Scout Shop.

Ferro rods are made of ferrocerium, a combination of metals and chemical elements that spark when scratched. You use them like you would flint and steel.

Hold a metal striker at a 45-degree angle against the rod and quickly scrape the striker away from you and toward your tinder. This motion will ignite shavings from the rod, creating a spark that can light your tinder.

The UCO Titan Fire Striker ($14, ucogear.com) and the SOL Mag Striker ($13.50, surviveoutdoorslonger.com) each come with a ferro rod and attached steel striker. The SOL Mag includes a magnesium rod that you can scrape shavings from to help start your fire, and the UCO Titan’s ferro rod can last for up to 20,000 strikes.

"Which Fire Starter Should I Choose?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Fleece can keep you cozy on chilly mornings. This lightweight fuzzy fabric traps body heat, keeping it close to your skin while staying breathable.

Chaco uses fleece to line its Ramble Puff shoes ($85, chacos.com), helping your feet stay toasty and comfy. These shoes are great for hanging around camp, as the nylon upper repels water while the durable rubber outsole gives you traction on wet surfaces.

Chaco makes its Ramble Puff series in a variety of styles and colors. Because of the cushioned design, though, these shoes run small. Order at least a half-size larger than your normal shoe size.

"Stuff We Like: Chaco Ramble Puff" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Hats are among the most underappreciated pieces of gear. They can let people know if you’re a fan of a certain sports team, what brands you like or that you’re a Scout. More practically, they can protect you from the sun, cold, rain and bugs (and bad hair days).

Hats keep your hair out of your eyes, absorb sweat and provide shade when there is none. A winter hat can help keep you warm — you can lose up to 10% of your body heat if your head is uncovered.

Pick a hat that looks and feels good to you and is ideal for the conditions where you’ll wear it.

GEAR GUY RECOMMENDS 7 AWESOME HATS

Some places can get really buggy, so a hat with insect protection will make your time outside a lot more enjoyable. We like OUTDOOR RESEARCH’S BUG BUCKET hat ($42, outdoorresearch.com). It’s a bucket-style brimmed hat with an integrated no-see-um head net. When you don’t need the net, it rolls up and tucks away while still providing UPF 40 sun protection.

For a day in the sun, stay in the shade by wearing a wide-brimmed hat like DAKINE’S PINDO STRAW HAT ($32, dakine.com). It has an elastic interior headband and a wicking polyester underbrim, which comes in lots of fun colors and patterns.

Express yourself with SKIDA’S ALPINE HAT ($38, skida.com). This fleece-lined beanie comes in tons of colors and prints. It’s breathable but warm, and if you’re sensitive to Merino wool, this one won’t itch.

You know those days when it’s so hot, it feels like you might melt? Beat the heat with NATHAN’S RUNCOOL ICE RUN HAT ($25, nathansports.com). This visored lid has secret side pockets for ice cubes to help cool you down. The hat’s built-in wicking sweatband keeps sweat out of your eyes.

Take the chill out of any activity with SMARTWOOL’S MERINO BEANIE ($25, smartwool.com). It’s super low bulk with low-profile seams for comfort, and it stays warm even if it gets wet.

Rain in the forecast? You can go full lobsterman with Helly Hansen’s polyester drawstring SVOLVAER SOU’WESTER RAIN HAT ($25, hhworkwear.com). The PVC fabric is completely waterproof, and the brim design keeps water from dripping down the back of your neck.

For a stylish brimmed hat, MELIN sets the standard for water-resistant baseball caps ($69, melin.com), and they come in dozens of colors, with a size and shape for everyone.

"Protect Your Head With These Functional, Fashionable Hats" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Campfire building is an important camping skill, but do not be careless with a campfires. Overuse of campfires and an increasing demand for firewood has degraded the natural appearance of many areas.

Campfires should be built only in certain places, constantly supervised and doused completely. The best place to make one is in established sites that land managers have constructed, like within a metal ring, grill or stone fireplace.

If your campsite does not have a place already built, you should use a fire mound or fire pan to protect the ground. Heat from a campfire can char the ground, blacken rocks and sterilize soil. Vegetation might have a hard time growing where a campfire has been.

To help minimize your fire’s impact, collect mineral soil, like silt, clay or sand. Lay down a tarp or ground cloth and form a soil mound on top of it at least 6 inches thick and 18 inches in diameter. The soil will insulate the ground from the fire’s heat, and the tarp can help with cleanup.

Alternatively, you can use a fire pan, which is a metal pan with sides that are at least 3 inches tall. These can be barbecue grills or aluminum roasting pans. Place your pan atop several inches of mineral soil to protect the ground.

Review fire-building instructions in official BSA publications before making your fire.

"How to Prevent Fire Damage When Building a Campfire" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: When my socks get wet, they stop feeling warm. What kind should I buy for cold, wet weather?
— Julian, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

A: Check what your socks are made of. If they’re cotton, you’ll want to shop for a different pair made of wool or a synthetic blend. Cotton fibers can absorb up to 25 times their weight in liquid, and when they’re soaked, they lose the ability to insulate. Plus, if you’re hiking in water-logged socks, you have a greater chance of developing blisters.

Wool and synthetics wick away moisture, dry quicker and continue to insulate when damp. Plus, they’re really comfortable.

A couple of socks I recently tried out are the Bombas Merino Wool Blend Hiking Calf Socks ($26, bombas.com) and the Icebreaker Merino Hike+ Light Crew Socks ($23, icebreaker.com). Both are cushioned, stretchy and fit snugly, perfect for hiking and backpacking.

The Bombas socks are made with 66% Merino wool, which comes from Merino sheep, a breed whose wool is very soft and breathable. The wool fibers distribute moisture rather than absorbing it, like cotton does. The Icebreaker socks are made with 59% Merino wool and the rest — like with the Bombas socks — is nylon and elastane, synthetic materials that provide durability and stretchiness.

"Which Socks Are Best for Cold, Wet Weather?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Mosquitoes are annoying, and they can be dangerous, too. They are responsible for transmitting blood-borne illnesses and serious diseases.

Here are a few tips to keep mosquitoes away:

• Wear insect repellent when you go outside. Look for products that contain either DEET or picaridin as the active ingredient.

• Wear long pants, a long-sleeved shirt and a hat. If mosquitoes can’t find your skin, they can’t bite you.

• Wear light colors. Mosquitoes seem more attracted to dark colors.

• Mosquitoes are also attracted by some odors. Avoid fragrances in your soaps, shampoos and detergents.

• Avoid still or standing water. That’s where mosquitoes hatch.

Learn more about mosquito safety at go.scoutlife.org/mosquito

"5 Tips to Avoid Mosquito Bites" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Short answer: It depends.

The CDC’s Stay Safe During & After a Winter Storm page includes a section on what do you if you’re stranded in cold weather. Among the answers — Wrap your entire body, including your head, in extra clothing, blankets or newspapers; Stay awake, you will be less vulnerable to cold-related health problems; As you sit, keep moving your arms and legs to improve your circulation and stay warmer; — and they also warn, “Do not eat snow because it will lower your body temperature.”

But that’s assuming that you’re stranded in cold weather.

What if you’re just in your own backyard, with easy access to a heated room and warm food and beverages?

Again, it depends.

When’s the last time someone put down pesticide on your lawn? How is the air pollution in your area?

The safest way to get water from snow is to melt it in a pot over a stove, and then bring it to a boil for a few minutes to kill any harmful bacteria.

Can you eat snow? If you can find freshly fallen snow that is clean of dirt and debris and animal droppings, and if no one has put out toxic fertilizer or pesticides, and if the pollution in your area isn’t too bad, then the answer is “most likely, in small amounts, yes.”

Catching a few snowflakes on your tongue? That’s probably OK. Making ice cream out of snow? Not recommended.

Whatever you do, just make sure it isn’t yellow.

"Is It OK to Eat Snow?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: My tent came with a footprint. How do you use one?
— Maxime, Marietta, Georgia

A: A footprint, also called a ground cloth, goes underneath your tent to protect it from moisture.

If the bottom of your tent gets wet, that moisture can seep through the tent floor, which isn’t completely waterproof, and you and your stuff can get wet. These waterproof plastic sheets can help keep the bottom of your tent from getting damaged by rocks and sticks, too.

Spread the footprint on the ground, and unfold your tent on top of it. If the footprint and tent have eyelets, place your tent poles through the eyelets, securing them both.

Footprints are often designed to fit exactly under a specific tent, like the Lizardhead Basecamp ($200 at the Scout Shop) or the MSR Elixir 3 ($272 at the Scout Shop), both of which come with a footprint.

You can also use a tarp, which is usually a cheaper yet bulkier option. You’ll likely need to fold the tarp under the tent because you don’t want the edges of the tarp showing. If the tarp’s edges show, rainwater can accumulate on the edges and run under your tent.

"How Do You Use a Tent Footprint?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Ever worry you might forget something for an upcoming trek? Or don’t know how to make everything fit in your backpack just right?

The Near Zero Dean backpack ($199, nearzero.co) can help with that. The 50-liter backpack unzips like a suitcase, giving you easy access. Inside are removable mesh dividers that create compartments for your gear. The compartments are also labeled for your tent, cookware, sleeping bag, flashlight and more. This makes it simple to organize your stuff and distribute the weight.

The lightweight 3-pound pack also comes with a stretchy exterior mesh pocket for your wet gear, storage loops for trekking poles and a hydration bladder compartment. The pack features two side pockets and two hipbelt pockets, and the top of the pack folds out to reveal three more zippered pockets.

An upgraded 55-liter version ($230) has a few extra features.

Scouts can use code BSA15 for 15% off Dean backpacks.

"Stuff We Like: Near Zero Dean" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Dutch ovens make baking at camp easy and expand your menu options. You can make biscuits, cornbread, pizza, lasagna, stew and a whole lot of desserts.

A Scout favorite is peach cobbler. Here’s how to make Philmont Ranger Cobbler:

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 large (28-ounce) cans of peaches
• 2 cups of dry biscuit mix
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon

Heat a Dutch oven over a bed of coals. Pour the juice from one can of peaches into the oven. Use the juice from the other can in place of water to stir into biscuit mix to make a dough. Put the peaches from both cans into the oven. Add the sugar and cinnamon, and bring to a boil.

Carefully drop spoonfuls of biscuit dough onto the hot peach mixture. Put the lid on the Dutch oven, and set the oven over 10-12 glowing briquettes. Place another 18-20 briquettes on the lid, and let the cobbler bake about 20 minutes until the biscuits are golden brown.

"Use a Dutch Oven to Make Philmont Ranger Cobbler" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: What is the best option for buying cheaper gear?
— Alyssa, Camarillo, California

A: First, check the Scout Shop. It sells high-quality camping gear with Scouts in mind: They carry what you need at affordable prices.

You can find discounted gear at outdoor equipment outlet stores like REI Outlet. Some sporting goods stores and gear companies also offer discounts for Scouts. You might find great deals at thrift shops or large retail stores like Walmart and Target.

When you’re shopping, look for brands you’ve seen reviewed in Scout Life or gear that a friend or Scout leader has recommended. It’s better to save up a little bit and buy a tested product than get something super cheap that won’t last. Sales happen throughout the year, but you’ll often find the best deals in the winter before gear companies release new products and last season’s stuff goes on clearance.

Ask other troops if they’d like to organize a gear swap. Or get resourceful and make your own gear — just check Scout Life’s How-To’s!

"Where Can I Find Cheaper Gear?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

This 2-pound kit could save your life for at least three days in the wild. We suggest storing these items in a single zip-close bag.

You can find many of these items at your local Scout Shop or at www.scoutshop.org

Remember, a survival kit does not replace the 10 Scout Outdoor Essentials.

STAY SHARP: You should have a pocketknife during most outings, anyway, but never go into the wild without a dependable, easy-to-use blade.

https://www.scoutshop.org/outdoors/tools-accessories/knives.html

TAKE COVER: Even in wilderness survival situations, you need a good shelter. A tube tent is a great lightweight option that’s easy to pack and very affordable.

https://www.scoutshop.org/outdoors/campsite-equipment/tents.html

SLEEP WARM: It’s not a long-term option, but an emergency sleeping bag will keep you warm and takes up only a few square inches of space.

https://www.scoutshop.org/outdoors/campsite-equipment/sleeping-bags.html

FIRE SOURCE AND TINDER: Store fresh strike-anywhere matches in a waterproof case to get a blaze going fast. Throw in a handful of dryer lint or petroleum-jelly-covered cotton balls as tinder.

https://www.scoutshop.org/outdoors/health-safety/fire-starters.html

SIGNALING: Get the attention of rescuers with a signal mirror and high-quality whistle.

https://www.scoutshop.org/outdoors/health-safety/emergency-gear.html

INSECT CONTROL: A pack of insect-repellent towelettes takes up far less space than a spray bottle.

https://www.scoutshop.org/outdoors/health-safety/insect-repellant.html

SHINE BRIGHTLY: A small LED flashlight will provide plenty of visibility in unknown environments. Don’t forget fresh batteries, too.

https://www.scoutshop.org/outdoors/lighting/flashlights.html

WRAP IT UP: We suggest wrapping a length of duct tape (a few feet) around your flashlight handle.

DRINK UP: Safe water is scarce in the wild. Make the water you do find safer to consume with a personal water filter and potable water tablets.

https://www.scoutshop.org/outdoors/camp-kitchen/purification.html

Excerpt from The Scouting Guide to Survival, the first in a series of Scouting guides from Skyhorse Publishing.

"How to Make a DIY Survival Kit" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

DECATHLON’S FORCLAZ MT500 AIR BACKPACK

Winter camping is a great way to have fun outside. It’ll also help you learn to stay warm and dry when you’re out in the elements.

“Everyone hates being cold,” says Kristin Arnold, American Mountain Guides Association guide and trainer. “You can repurpose a lot of the gear you use for three-season camping for winter camping. You don’t need to buy all new gear.”

STAYING WARM OUTDOORS

Arnold’s top tip for staying warm is to layer wool, fleece, down and synthetic clothing you already own so that if you sweat, the fabric wicks the moisture away from your body. You can fine-tune your temperature by taking off layers.

“Avoid cotton,” Arnold says. “It freezes when it gets wet. Wear wool socks. Always wear a hat. Once you’re cold, it takes more energy to get warm. Maintaining body temperature is more efficient.”

ALPTREK’S PEAK SNOWSHOES

DEALING WITH THE ENVIRONMENT

For your first winter camping adventure, start with an overnighter and build up to a multiday trip. When there’s snow on the ground, shovel or stomp it to create a flat surface for your tent. This will make sleeping more comfortable. Stakes pull out in the snow, so instead, tie stuff sacks filled with snow or use sticks placed parallel with the ground to your guylines and bury them.

Place blocks of snow around the outside of your vestibule to block the wind. If you live in avalanche country, avoid camping near open trees and open slopes where there could be a slide.

EAT AND DRINK!

“Have a plan, tell people where you’re going and don’t forget the snacks,” Arnold says. “In winter, eating and drinking are key to reducing the chance of frostbite — and to having maximum fun.”

Bring food that’s easy to prepare. Dehydrated meals are perfect for winter camping because meal prep is simply boiling water, and there’s little clean up. Hot drinks are the best when you’re winter camping. Another pro tip from Arnold: If you have to pee, don’t wait. Holding your pee can make you cold.

SLEEP WARM

You’ll also want a sleeping bag rated for the coldest temperatures you’ll experience (or colder). If your bag isn’t quite warm enough, add a sleeping bag liner, double up bags if you have more than one and wear all your layers.

Anything outside your sleeping bag will likely be moist in the morning from frozen condensation. If you want to dry clothing overnight, place it between your bag and pad. Turn your boots upside-down in your tent so the insides stay dry. Open your tent vents before you go to bed. Your breath will freeze at night and make the inside of the tent frosty, which will make it feel like it’s snowing inside.

To stay warm while you sleep, fill a Nalgene water bottle ($17) with hot water before bed and tuck it into your sleeping bag, too. If the bottle is too hot, slide it inside a sock.

THE GEAR

MUCKBOOTS KIDS’ ELEMENT CAMO

For winter camping, you need insulated waterproof boots that are high enough to keep out the snow. MUCKBOOTS (starting around $110 a pair, muckbootcompany.com) makes highly insulated, high-traction boots rated to 40 below zero. They’re great, especially for a weekend campout. Insulated hiking boots work, too. For longer trips, consider winter boots with a removable liner that you can take out and keep in your sleeping bag overnight. That way, your feet will stay warm after you put your boots on in the morning.

ALPTREK’S PEAK SNOWSHOE KIT

In deep snow, skis or snowshoes are essential. Both keep you from punching through soft snow, which is tiring and makes the trail terrible for other travelers. If you can walk, you can snowshoe. Try ALPTREK’S PEAK SNOWSHOE KIT ($180, alptrekgear.com), which comes with a set of aluminum trekking poles with winter baskets and a carry bag.

GSI’S PINNACLE FOUR-SEASON STOVE

If you have a canister stove, bring an extra fuel canister for winter camping and warm it next to your body. If your stove sputters out, turn it off and swap canisters. We like GSI’S PINNACLE FOUR-SEASON STOVE ($80, gsioutdoors.com) paired with GSI’s winter-optimized isobutane fuel, which can be used with any canister stove.

MSR’S WHISPERLITE UNIVERSAL STOVE

A white gas stove is the most dependable for freezing weather. MSR’s tried-and-true WHISPERLITE UNIVERSAL STOVE ($200, msrgear.com) works with both canister fuel and white gas. Learn about BSA chemical fuels and equipment safety guidelines at go.scoutlife.org/fuel

EUREKA’S EL CAPITAN 2 OUTFITTER TENT

A three-season tent can work in winter if there’s no snow in the forecast. A four-season tent has the best weather protection and the best moisture management. Eureka’s heavy-duty wind- and rain-shedding EL CAPITAN 2 OUTFITTER TENT ($260, eurekacamping.johnsonoutdoors.com) is one of the most affordable options.

BIG AGNES’ BENCHMARK 0

If you’re looking for a winter sleeping bag, consider BIG AGNES’ BENCHMARK 0 ($160, bigagnes.com). It’s one of the most affordable, backpackable, high-quality zero-degree bags. Made from high-loft synthetic with a water-repellent shell, it’s oh-so-warm.

MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR’S BISHOP PASS 0

You’ll pay more for a down bag, but down is more packable, lighter and has a cozy warmth. MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR’S BISHOP PASS 0 ($325, mountainhardwear.com) is a toasty mummy bag with a spacious footbox.

NEMO’S SWITCHBACK

If you already have an insulated sleeping pad, you don’t need to buy another one. But do add a closed-cell foam mat to whatever you’re already sleeping on to increase the R-value, which describes how insulative the mat is. Try NEMO’S SWITCHBACK ($45-$55, nemoequipment.com), which uses a thermal reflective layer and heat-trapping depressions to boost your current pad’s warmth.

DECATHLON’S FORCLAZ MT500 AIR BACKPACK

A good backpack is key to getting gear to your winter camping spot. You might be able to make your summer backpack work, though winter gear is often bulkier. DECATHLON’S FORCLAZ MT500 AIR BACKPACK ($149-$159, decathlon.com) offers 55-liter and 60-liter versions, both of which are adjustable to give you 10 more liters of space. They feel good to carry even when fully loaded.

NORTH FACE’S THERMOBALL TRACTION BOOTIES

If there’s one thing extra you might want to pack, make it a cozy pair of slippers with a good sole. THE NORTH FACE’S THERMOBALL TRACTION BOOTIES ($69, thenorthface.com) are comfortable and keep you warm out in the snow.

"How to Gear Up for Winter" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Trekking along a mountain in the snow can bring great rewards, but it can also bring great dangers. Like avalanches.

Avalanches are a serious concern for all travelers whose outings take them into snowy, mountainous regions. An avalanche occurs when snow breaks loose on a slope, or when a cornice of snow collapses and tumbles down. Large avalanches can carry away trees and tents, and even a small snowslide can bury a person caught in its path.

Your greatest protection against avalanches is knowing where, how, and when they are likely to happen and then planning routes that take you elsewhere. Indicators of danger include the following:

• Signs of previous avalanches, like lines or cracks in the snow, or damaged trees. Where avalanches have happened before, they are likely to happen again.
• Steep terrain. Avalanches often happen on slopes greater than 30 degrees. If you’re a skier, that’s a black diamond-level slope.
• New snow. It takes a while for fresh snowfall to stabilize. If you step on snow and hear a “whumpf” sound, the snow underneath isn’t stable.
• Clear variations in snow layers. A weak layer in the snowpack can cause the layers above to break loose and slide.
• Weather. Changes in air temperature, especially rising near or above freezing, can trigger an avalanche.
• Sounds that suggest cracking or settling of the snowpack.

STEPS TO HELP YOU PREPARE FOR TRAVEL IN STEEP, SNOWY TERRAIN

• Complete an avalanche-safety training course taught by qualified experts.
• Check local avalanche-forecasting networks (operated by weather bureaus and land management agencies) before setting out. The most useful networks are updated at least once a day.
• Choose travel companions who understand the danger of avalanches and will do their part to manage the risk.
• Carry avalanche safety equipment and know how to use it. Battery-powered beacons worn by each group member emit a radio signal that can be picked up by the beacons of others.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU’RE CAUGHT IN AN AVALANCHE

If you get caught in an avalanche, ditch your backpack and skis and begin “swimming” in the snow to keep yourself upright and your head above the surface. As the snow slows and settles, push snow away from your face to create an air pocket so you can breathe.

Should others in your party be caught in an avalanche, keep your eye on them as long as you can, and note the exact place you saw them last. Hopefully, they’ll be wearing avalanche beacons so that you can recover them quickly. If not, listen for their voices, probe the area with ski poles from which you’ve removed the baskets, and don’t give up hope. Sturdy short-handled shovels made of plastic or metal can prove invaluable for freeing avalanche victims.

People have survived under the snow for 30 minutes before being rescued. Treat avalanche victims for shock and hypothermia.

BE AWARE OF AVALANCHE DANGER!

• Falling rocks pose a danger to unwary backcountry travelers. Loose stones at the base of a cliff might indicate a likelihood of rockfall. If you hear a rock clattering down, or if you accidentally kick one loose, shout “Rock!” to warn those below to take cover.
• As with any trek adventure risks, don’t be reluctant to change your plans or postpone a trip when avalanche danger is high. The mountains will still be there for you after conditions have improved.

"How to Watch Out for Avalanches in Snowy, Mountainous Terrain" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: I’m looking for a comfortable daypack that’s less than $120.
— Joshua, Houston, Texas

A: Daypacks are great for short outings. You’re not carrying a large backpack, but you can still take what you need for the next several hours.

You’ll want it to fit your Scout Essentials (first-aid kit, water bottle, trail food, etc.), plus any extra gear you want for the trip, like a camera or binoculars. However, the more you take, the bigger a pack you’ll need, and that’s usually when the price goes up.

Daypacks often range in capacity from 10 liters to about 40. Go to an outdoor sports store and check out the different sizes so you can better gauge how big of a pack you’ll want. Usually, a pack around 25 liters should give you all the space you’ll need.

With two exterior side sleeves, an interior pocket for a hydration bladder and a front stash pocket, one nice option at that size is the Eagle Creek Ranger XE 26L ($99, eaglecreek.com). For even more space, you could save up a little more cash and look at Eagle Creek’s 36-liter version ($129).

Hiking light? Consider the Hydaway collapsible backpack ($40, myhydaway.com), which folds into its top pocket to a handheld size. It’s not as comfy since it doesn’t have a supportive back, but this 15-liter pack still has plenty of room with two stretchy side sleeves and an interior pocket.

"Where to Find an Inexpensive and Comfortable Daypack" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

The scientific name for the Venus flytrap is Dionaea muscipula. It was named for the Greek goddess Diana (whom the Romans called Venus). Muscipula means “mousetrap.”

We don’t usually think of plants as predators, but some plants do eat insects and other small creatures. Since they can’t chase prey, these carnivorous (meat-eating) plants have developed some clever strategies to capture their food.

Of the hundreds of thousands of plant species, there are only about 800 that are carnivorous. They typically grow in wetlands or forests where soils are wet for at least part of the year.

These soils are often poor in nutrients, so plants that get much of their energy from sunlight through photosynthesis need to supplement their diet with insects and other prey.

It takes only about 0.3 seconds for the Venus flytrap’s leaves to snap shut and trap prey inside.

VENUS FLYTRAPS

The Venus flytrap is probably the most famous carnivorous plant. Native only to a small area in coastal North and South Carolina, it has been established elsewhere in the U.S. Despite the name, Venus flytraps eat mostly spiders; crawling insects like ants; and smaller amounts of beetles, grasshoppers and other insects.

The Venus flytrap’s hinged “snap traps” are leaves that look like little clams with big eyelashes. The inner surfaces are bright red to purple (to attract insects) and have tiny hairlike projections called “cilia.” When triggered by a bug, the cilia cause the two lobes of the trap to quickly shut, trapping the prey inside. The cilia have to be touched at least twice so the plant doesn’t waste energy on a false alarm. Once a bug is caught, it takes three to 20 days to be digested and for the trap to reopen.

A blow fly is trapped on a carnivorous sundew plant.

SUNDEWS

Sundews, which are Venus flytrap relatives, are some of the world’s smallest predatory plants. They are low-growing and have greenish to reddish paddle-shaped leaves arranged in a circle. Sundews use a “flypaper” approach to trap prey. Their leaves are covered in tiny hairs that release a clear, sticky substance, which both lures and traps bugs. Their name comes from the sticky liquid that makes the plants look like they are covered in dew.

A crimson pitcher plant. Some nicknames for pitcher plants are trumpet pitchers, frog britches and whip-poor-will boots.

PITCHER PLANTS

Pitcher plants are found on four continents. In North America, they grow mainly in the eastern U.S., but some grow on the West Coast and in parts of Canada. The name comes from their tubular shape — the “pitchers” are leaves that function like a pitfall trap.

Pitcher plants lure insects with their bright colors; some also use sugars and odors. The pitcher tops are slippery, and if prey get too close and fall in, it’s hard for them to escape. The victims drown in the pitchers’ liquid, which includes enzymes for digestion. Pitcher plants are unique among carnivorous plants in that they also act as shelter for some wildlife that are able to avoid getting caught, including insects, spiders, frogs and even bats.

Pinguicula ‘Weser’ butterwort

BUTTERWORTS AND BLADDERWORTS

Butterworts grow in many parts of the world including North America. Their leaves are succulent (they hold water) and arranged in a circular pattern. Butterworts use a flypaper strategy and catch insects with sticky leaves. And, like sundews, prey is digested on the leaf surface where they are caught. Butterworts also produce a substance that keeps insects from rotting while being digested.

Bugs and other invertebrate animals aren’t even safe out on the water. Some carnivorous plants called bladderworts are fully aquatic, and others grow in wet soils. Bladderworts use suction-like traps called “bladders” to catch tiny insects and aquatic worms. The bladders are hollow and have a flexible door and hair-like triggers that suck prey inside. Within about 30 minutes, the traps are reset again.

PROTECT RARE PLANTS

Many carnivorous plants are now rare or endangered in their native range due to poaching, which is the illegal taking of plants (and animals) from the wild. You can help protect rare plants by not removing them from their habitats and always purchasing plants grown by reputable retailers (make sure they are grown in nurseries). Other serious threats to carnivorous plants include over-collecting, habitat loss and drought caused by climate change. Learn more about carnivorous plants at a local botanical garden or arboretum.

"Watch Out, Bug! These Plants Are Hungry" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: How do I keep my pocketknife sharp?
— Andrew, Minneapolis, Minnesota

A: Over time, a knife will start to get dull. That can be dangerous. When a blade is not sharp, you can lose control while cutting and your knife could slip. Use a sharpening tool to maintain your knife’s edge.

The most popular tool is a whetstone, like the Smith’s Knife Sharpening Stone ($8, scoutshop.org), available at the Scout Shop. First, clean your knife and apply a thin layer of oil or water (depending on the type of whetstone) to the stone. Place your blade at an angle — about 25 degrees — against the stone and run the blade along it several times. Do the same to the other side.

You can also use a sharpener. The Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener ($40, worksharptools.com) features two sharpening plates set against angled guides to help you find the right angle. It also has a rod for sharpening serrated blades. The Work Sharp Micro Sharpener and Knife Tool ($15, worksharptools) has a couple of sharpening rods as well as bits you can use to tighten your knife’s pivot hinges.

Remember to follow pocketknife safety rules. Get properly trained before you carry one.

"How to Sharpen a Pocketknife" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Buying a backpack and separate solar charging system can get expensive. So why not get them together?

Voltaic makes a 25-liter backpack with a built-in solar panel and USB battery pack called the OffGrid ($199, voltaicsystems.com). With it, you can charge your cellphone or camera batteries while you hike.

A set of side pockets organize the battery pack and your device. Connected to the solar panel, the battery pack rests inside one of the zippered side pockets. Your device goes in the second pocket and a port connects the two so you can run a USB cord to the battery pack.

The backpack, made from recycled plastic bottles, has two large compartments for your gear, one of which is designed to hold a laptop or tablet.

You can also consider the 20-liter Voltaic Converter solar backpack ($129, voltaicsystems.com), though its smaller solar panel means it takes twice as long to charge your devices.

"Stuff We Like: Voltaic OffGrid" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Opinel’s No.07 My First Opinel Folding Knife ($17, opinel-usa.com) is sharp but without a point. The 3.5-inch blade is made from Sandvik stainless steel, and it holds an edge. The outdoors version ($26, scoutshop.org) also has a built-in whistle to call for help in an emergency.

With proper training, many Scouts can use a knife — a valuable tool for camping or working on a whittling project. A multitool provides multiple blades and other tools. Examples are saws, drivers and even forks and spoons.

A knife is not a toy. If you’re a Bear, Webelos or Arrow of Light Cub Scout, earn your Whittling Chip. If you’re in Scouts BSA, earn your Totin’ Chip. Then you will know how to safely carry and use one of these tools.

The CRKT Minimalist Drop Point ($36, crkt.com) has a 2-inch fixed blade with a tough handle that’s comfortable to hold. The carbon-steel blade sharpens quickly, and the half-ounce durable thermoplastic sheath has multiple mounting options.

KNIFE BASICS

There are several types of knives.

All-purpose folding pocketknives are common in Scouting. Most come with tools such as a can opener, screwdriver, tweezers and, of course, knife blades — all in one compact package. Though they can be extremely handy, a downside is the knife blade doesn’t lock into place, so it may fold up on your hand while you’re using it.

Lockbacks are simple folding knives with a single blade that can be locked. So you get the benefits of a sturdy fixed blade-style knife but in a convenient pocket-size package that can be folded open with just one hand.

Scouts have been using Victorinox Swiss Army knives for a long time. The Victorinox Swiss Army Huntsman ($50, victorinox.com), a multitool with first-aid functions, has a suite of transitional tools, including a can opener, scissors and tweezers — plus large and small blades, saw, awl, leather punch and more. It pretty much has everything you need.

Fixed blades, are no-nonsense knives with a beefy handle and stationary blade. If you need a knife to accomplish the everyday tasks you come across in the outdoors, from whittling on things and cutting materials to spreading peanut butter on your sandwiches, a short, no more than four-inch-long, fixed-blade knife will accomplish all of that. Avoid large sheath knives; they are heavy and awkward to carry.

You’ll also find specialty knives such as river rescue knives with serrated blades for slicing rope, whittling knives designed for carving wood, and multitools, which are compact, handheld tool boxes. Most are built around a pair of folding pliers.

The Leatherman Sidekick ($70, leatherman.com) is a stainless-steel toolbox on your belt. The 7-ounce Sidekick has spring-action needle-nose and standard pliers, wire cutters and stripper, knife and serrated knife, saw, ruler, can and bottle openers, wood and metal file and three screwdrivers.

FOLDING OR FIXED KNIFE? KNOW THE POLICY

Knife policies vary among packs, troops, councils and camps when it comes to what blade types and lengths are allowed. Learn your unit’s policy before buying a blade of any kind. When it comes to types of knives, the Guide to Safe Scouting recommends “choosing the right equipment for the job at hand.”

BLADES

Most blades are made from strong and durable stainless steel. Blades are available in straight edge, serrated (jagged like a saw) or both. Bigger is not always better. A small, sharp four-inch-or-smaller blade can cut just as well as bigger knives but is much safer to handle and easier to maneuver in tight spots.

Stansport’s Folding Knife, Fork, Spoon Multitool ($15, stansport.com) has more than eating utensils. The tool, which separates into wo so you can use fork and spoon together, also has a can opener, corkscrew and chisel all in a belt-ready nylon carrying pouch.

PRICE AND QUALITY

You don’t have to spend a fortune to get a quality tool. Often, an inexpensive knife will do everything you want it to do. As prices go up, you’ll see small improvements in the quality and size of the blade.

CARE AND MAINTENANCE

Knives and multitools can last your whole life if you care for them. Wipe your pocketknife with a damp cloth to clean it, and add a drop of food-safe oil at pivot points to keep it at its best. Use a sharpener to keep your blade sharp.

“A sharp knife will work for you, while a dull one works against you,” says Kyle Owens of Work Sharp, a company that makes sharpeners.

A great knife deserves an equally great sharpener. Work Sharp’s Pocket Knife Sharpener ($15, worksharptools.com) is small enough to stash in your pack, with a diamond sharpening plate and ceramic honing rod that have built-in angle guides so you can get a perfect edge on your pocketknife.

CARRY IT SAFELY

The smartest, safest place to stash your knife is in an easy-access spot in your backpack. You’re asking for trouble by wearing a fixed-blade knife on your belt. If you fall, the knife could rotate inward and you could land right on the blade.

At only 3.1 ounces, Gerber’s Armbar Trade ($50, gerbergear.com) has eight essential tools, including a knife, saw, awl, driver, pry bar, hammer and bottle opener, packed into a surprisingly small and effective pocket clip tool.

TREAT YOUR KNIFE WITH RESPECT

Treating pocket knives with respect not only ensures your safety, but also keeps others safe. Here are a few major no-no’s:

• Throwing a knife
• Using a dull or dirty blade
• Handing a knife to someone blade first
• Cutting while others are within your “safety circle” (arm’s length)
• Carving into something that doesn’t belong to you
• Cutting toward your body

Using a knife requires responsibility. Bear Scouts can start carrying a pocketknife after completing the Whittling Chip requirements. Members of Scouts BSA must earn their Totin’ Chip, which also gives them the right to carry and use axes and saws.

"How to Buy a Good Pocketknife or Multitool" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You’re going on your first camping trip or backpacking trek. What should you bring? Every packing list starts with these 10 items, and they’re called “essentials” for a reason. Then you’ll want to add other items depending on the outing.

• Download a checklist for a warm-weather outing
• Download a checklist for a cold-weather outing
• Download a checklist for a paddling trip
• Download a checklist for a bicycling trip

THE 10 SCOUT OUTDOOR ESSENTIALS

The Scout Basic Essentials call for the following ten items. These items can help you stay comfortable, safe and prepared:

1. A pocketknife or multitool can be handy in a wide variety of situations. Use it to cut a cord or pieces of food, whittle a stake, tighten a screw and more. Keep your knife sharp and clean, and don’t forget to first earn your Whittling Chip (for older Cub Scouts) or Totin’ Chip (for Boy Scouts).

2. A first-aid kit can be a lifesaver. Literally. A few items will allow you to treat scratches, blisters and other minor injuries. They should also allow you to provide initial care while waiting for help for more serious injuries.

3. Bring extra clothing to match the weather. Temperatures can change during a trip. Have the clothing you need for warm days and cooler nights. Multiple layers are better than a single massive jacket, because layered clothing is adaptable to a wide range of temperatures.

4. Rain gear is very important. Rain can come in a hurry, and getting your clothes drenched is more than just uncomfortable, it can lead to hypothermia, a potentially fatal condition. Have your rain gear easily accessible.

5. A lightweight flashlight, headlamp or a rugged penlight is important for finding your way in the dark. Bring extra batteries, too.

6. Trail food is good for maintaining your energy. Make your own trail mix, bring a small bag of granola and pack a handful of energy bars. Bring more than you think you’ll need in case you get stuck (or lost) in the woods.

7. Water can prevent dehydration, heat exhaustion and heatstroke. Drink plenty of fluids, even in cold weather. Use a lightweight, unbreakable container with a secure lid.

8. Matches and fire starters may be used to light fires for heat, or for signaling for help. Store matches or lighters in resealable plastic bags. You may not plan to need an open fire, but Be Prepared to build one in an emergency.

9. Sun protection might include sunblock, sunglasses, lip balm and a wide-brimmed hat. Look for an SPF of at least 30. Apply early in the day, and reapply often.

10. A map and compass are probably the most important tools you can carry in case you get lost. A topographic map will help you identify landmarks along the way. Review your route-finding skills before you leave so you’ll be sharp on the trail.

It’s a good idea to bring a daypack for your Scout Essentials, so you can grab it and go if you’re hiking during the campout.

CLOTHING

You should also pack clothing matched to the season. Check the weather for where you’re going to camp. It might be warm where you live, but the temperatures might be dropping where you’re going.

SLEEPING

Here are some items you may need at night, depending on the outing:

• Tent
• Sleeping bag
• Sleeping pad
• Ground cloth
• Pillow

KEEPING CLEAN

Here are some hygiene and toiletry items you may want to pack, depending on the outing:

• Toothbrush
• Toothpaste
• Dental floss
• Soap
• Comb
• Waterless hand cleaner
• Small towel
• Washcloth
• Toilet paper
• Trowel for digging cathole latrines

COOKING AND EATING

Here are some cooking and eating items you may want to pack, depending on the outing:

• Mess kit
• Large plastic cereal bowl or kitchen storage bowl
• Spoon
• Cup or insulated mug
• Water treatment system
• Backpacking stove with fuel
• Large pot and lid (2.5- or 3-quart size)
• Small pot and lid (1.5- or 2-quart size)
• Lightweight frying pan (10 to 12 inches in diameter)
• For melting snow, add 1 large pot and lid (6 to 10 quarts)
• Hot-pot tongs

EXTRAS

Here are some extras you may want to pack, depending on the outing:

• Watch
• Camera
• Notebook
• Pen or pencil
• Sunglasses
• Small musical instrument
• Swimsuit
• Gloves
• Whistle
• Nylon cord
• Insect repellent
• Repair kit
• Hiking stick or trekking poles
• Binoculars
• Fishing gear
• Animal identification books, plant keys, geological studies, star charts or other guides

For car-camping where your campsite won’t be far from where you park, you can carry everything in a duffle bag. If you camp often, you’ll want to invest in a backpack so you can venture into the backcountry with all your gear.

"Every Packing List Starts With the 10 Scout Basic Outdoor Essentials" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

If you were to pull out a smartphone and open a maps app, it would show where you were and which direction you were facing. Can you get the same useful information without a digital aid? Absolutely. Grab a map. Better yet, get a compass, too.

You can orient a map by aligning it with the topography (the features it represents). Look for hills, trailheads and bodies of water, and hold the map so it matches the landscape around you. Most maps indicate which way is north. With your map matching your topography, you should know which direction you’re facing based on the map’s cardinal directions.

For better accuracy or if you don’t have easily identifiable landmarks near you, pull out your compass. Rotate the housing of the compass until north lines up with the direction-of-travel arrow on the baseplate. Place the long edge of the compass along the map’s border. Turn the compass and map together until the compass needle lines up inside the orienteering arrow.

Note that this method doesn’t account for declination, but the map should be oriented accurately enough for a general lay of the land.

"How to Use a Compass to Orient a Map and Find Your Way" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: I’m going on my first campout with my Cub Scout pack. What’s a good sleeping bag to get?
— Marcus, Charlotte, North Carolina

A: When shopping for any sleeping bag, the goal is the same: You want one that keeps you warm and comfortable.

Follow your budget. You can find affordable bags that keep you comfy for a pack overnighter or council-run campout.

Consider Redcamp mummy sleeping bags ($33-$40, redcamp.com). With temperature ratings as low as 32 degrees, they should keep you warm on most campouts. Their mummy style helps keep heat close to you. Rectangular-shaped sleeping bags work well in the summer or if you like to spread out when you sleep.

Redcamp bags are designed for youth up to 4 feet, 6 inches tall. When you cross over into an older Scout program, you can look at bigger sleeping bags for adventures beyond car camping.

"Good Sleeping Bag for a Cub Scout?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

In about 30 seconds, the Flextail Tiny Pump 2X ($40, flextail.com) can inflate or deflate your sleeping pad while lighting up your tent at the same time.

This rechargeable air pump weighs little more than 3 ounces and fits in your pocket. But don’t let its small size fool you: This pump’s powerful motor can quickly fill an air mattress, forcing up to 180 liters of air through its nozzle within a minute. Turn it around, and the pump will deflate your mattress just as fast. The battery lets you fill a mattress up to 40 times on one charge.

Hold the power button down to turn on the light, which has three brightness settings, from 40 to 400 lumens. At the lowest setting, the light can last 10 hours. The end with the carrying handle is magnetic so you can attach it to many metal surfaces.

Flextail is offering a 15% discount for Scouts. Use the code Scouts15 when you order.

"Stuff We Like: Flextail Tiny Pump" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Check out this photo gallery of crazy, futuristic, unusual and awesome tents. Which is your favorite?

The Tunnel Tent

These concept tents can be easily set up by themselves, or they can be connected together to make an entire tent community.

The Bicycle Tent Trailer

When you’re done with a day of cycling, just park this tent trailer and climb inside. It has everything you need.

The Solar Tent

Three panels above this tent are woven with solar threads that collect the sun’s energy and provide power for lights and portable devices.

The Pod Tent

These modular tents can be attached to each other with tunnels, so that each person can have their own private sleeping space.

The Stargazer Tent

The transparent ceiling on this tent provides a beautiful view of the stars at night while still protecting you from rain and insects.

The Inflatable Tent

Instead of traditional tent poles, these tents are held up with inflatable tubes that take less than a minute to fill up.

The Donut Tent

This tube-shaped tent forms an open-air living space that’s shielded from the wind. Plus, it folds down flat and can be carried on the roof of a car.

The Death Star Tent

A Death Star tent. What else can we say?

The Cot Tent

Instead of putting a tent in your cot, what if your tent was a cot?

The Cocoon Tent

You’ll feel like you’re floating on air in this tent suspended between trees. But it might be a little tricky to climb in and out.

The Bubble Tent

These tents don’t give you much privacy, but no other tent gives you a better view of the stars at night.

The Bike Tent

No need for poles. This tent uses your bike to provide its structure. Perfect for bike camping.

The 10-Room, 20-Person Tent

Wow! We’ve never seen a bigger tent.

"Would You Go Camping in One of These 13 Intense Tents?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You come across a stream. There isn’t a bridge, yet the trail continues on the other side. How do you get across?

Crossing a body of water presents some hazards. You can slip on a wet rock, fall into a deep spot or even get swept downstream by fast-moving water. So before you just wade in, consider several factors.

First, look for where the water is calm, even if it’s the widest part of the stream. Check downstream. If you were to fall, is there a chance you could be swept into rocks, rapids or even a waterfall? If so, look for another spot.

If there are steppingstones, study the route. Expect the stones to be slippery when you step on them, so plant your feet squarely in the center of each one. Grab a walking stick to help you maintain your balance. If there is a fallen log, consider scooting across it to stay balanced.

If you decide to wade into the water, keep your shoes on to get better traction and protect your feet from sharp rocks. Before crossing any body of water, unbuckle your backpack’s waistband and loosen the shoulder straps. That way, if you fall into the water, you can easily remove the backpack so it doesn’t weigh you down.

"How to Safely Cross a Stream" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Whether you pick a tent or tarp, these shelters will guard you from the elements.

Tents and tarps both have advantages. How you want to sleep, the environment and how you want to use it can all factor into your decision.

CAMPING TARP ADVANTAGES

“Tarps are lighter than tents, most are more versatile and a tarp can easily adjust to its surroundings,” says Charlie Ranahan with outdoor gear company Mountain Hardwear. “Most tarps have multiple attachment points, and they extend over a wider area than a tent, giving you and your friends more space to hang out and sleep.”

There’s more open air between you and the outdoors, which can be a pro or a con, depending on what you’re comfortable with. Tarps really let you feel one with nature. If the weather looks good, a tarp might be a perfect choice. But when it comes to tarps, they’re not all created equal.

“Camping tarps are mostly made from nylon or polyester with special coatings that keep out wind and weather,” Ranahan says. “A camping tarp will also be a lot quieter than a blue tarp or other hardware store tarp if it’s windy. It’ll dry faster and pack better, too.”

HOW TO PICK A TENT

Opt for a tent if you want to seal yourself from wind and weather, stay warmer and steer clear of creepy-crawlies. Backpackers should look at lightweight, packable tents.

Don’t get the smallest tent. Choose one with space for you and your friends in case it rains. A tent with two doors and vestibules, which are covered areas by the doors, lets you store your packs on one side and use the other to get in and out. A tent with one door and vestibule is likely lighter.

3 RECOMMENDED CAMPING TARPS

At 9.7 ounces, the Gossamer Gear Twinn Tarp ($149, gossamergear.com, 9.7 oz.) is one of the lightest tarps you can buy. It’s so small that it could pack into an insulated mug. Roughly 10-by-9 feet when opened, the high-tenacity nylon Twinn Tarp has bug net loops at each end and two side-wall tie-out points on each side. These options give this tarp tent-like qualities. It’s thin, tough and big enough to sleep two. It’s also small enough that even if you pack a tent, you might want to bring it along as a protected hangout space.

Hang the 12-by-12 Mountainsmith Mountain Shade Tarp ($70, mountainsmith.com, 1 lb. 14 oz.) from the trees or support it with your trekking poles, and you’ve got a durable waterproof shelter. It comes in a long, narrow carrying bag that’s easy to strap on the outside of a backpack. While it doesn’t have as many tie-down points as some other tarps, it has enough to get the job done. It comes with stakes.

Roughly 10-by-12 ½ feet when it’s set up, the Alps Ultralight Tarp Shelter ($100, alpsmountaineering.com, 1 lb. 3 oz.) packs to about the size of a Nalgene bottle. The tarp has a catenary cut, which means its edges are curved. That makes it more aerodynamic in the wind and cuts down on noise since the edges tend to flap less. The cut also helps keep the tarp light. 1 lb., 3 oz.

3 LIGHTWEIGHT CAMPING TENTS

If you choose to sleep alone, a one-person tent is a cozy option. In cool temperatures, there’s less space to warm up, yet most have plenty of space for your gear. The Kelty Discovery Trail 1 Tent ($115, kelty.com, 3 lbs. 15 oz.) has two poles, and it’s quick to set up. The three-season tent has ultrafine no-see-um mesh inside, with a rainfly outside.

A solid backcountry tent, Eureka’s Suma 2 Tent ($160, eurekacamping.johnsonoutdoors.com, 4 lbs. 2 oz.) has one door, one vestibule and plenty of space inside to sleep two. A gear loft and three inside pockets help you stay organized. The color-matched tent body and rainfly make it easy to set up this tent quickly. Because it has a single vestibule, you’ll be entering and exiting where you’re storing your pack. If you are backpacking with it, it’s light enough that it won’t cramp your style.

Spacious and easy to set up, Mountain Hardwear’s Meridian 2P Tent ($275, mountainhardwear.com, 5 lbs. 8.6 oz.) is a backcountry palace. With two doors, double vestibules and five interior pockets, the symmetrical tent has a rainfly that rolls back and clips half open so you can view the stars while keeping the bugs out. It’s easy to cover the tent fully if the weather changes. It comes with a ground cloth to protect the bathtub bottom from wear and tear. Because it’s symmetrical, you can sleep head to toe, and the fly can go on either way.

"Tent or Tarp? How to Pick the Right Camping Shelter" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You don’t need four burners and a gas line to make some great-tasting trail food. All you need is plenty of sunlight. Make your own solar cooker and feed the whole group. Solar ovens work by bouncing sunlight off a reflective surface into a container. The hotter the container, the faster your food will cook. It’s easy to make—and cheap.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A SOLAR COOKER:

• Black paper
• Foil
• Glue
• Marker
• Plastic wrap
• Ruler
• Scissors
• Skewer
• Square pizza box
• Tape
• Utility knife

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A SOLAR OVEN:

STEP 1: Use a ruler and marker to outline the top of the pizza box about 1 inch inward from each edge. This will create a square on top of the box.

STEP 2: Carefully cut the front and sides of the square. Leave the back attached. Fold back the flap.

STEP 3: Line the inside of the square flap with foil, and glue it down shiny side up. Keep the foil as smooth as possible. Fold and glue down any excess foil to the back of the flap, or trim it to fit.

STEP 4: Repeat Step 3 to line the bottom of the box. Next, glue a sheet of black paper on top of the foil. This will help your oven absorb heat.

STEP 5: Fold back the flap. Cover the opening with a layer of plastic wrap. Using tape, attach the wrap to the 1″ sides on top of the pizza box. Make sure there are no holes in the plastic wrap. The opening needs to be sealed completely. Optional: You can also line the inside of the opening with plastic wrap to ensure air won’t get through.

STEP 6: It’s time to cook! Once you have your food (s’more, cookies, etc.) inside your oven on a piece of foil or small aluminum pan, close the box. On one side, place the tip of a wooden skewer between the closed lid and the edge of the box. Tape the other tip of the skewer to the square flap to help prop it up.

STEP 7: Place your solar cooker outside with the flap angled directly at the sun. This will let the foil reflect the sun and cook your food. Time will vary depending on the outside temperature, the sun and the dish you decide to cook.

TRY IT OUT

Solar cooking takes a little practice. Try this easy recipe first:

SOLAR OVEN S’MORES

Ingredients:

• Graham crackers
• Milk chocolate bars
• Marshmallows

Place graham crackers next to each other on piece of foil. Top each cracker with a piece of chocolate and a marshmallow. Put the foil in the center of your solar oven. When the marshmallow is melted and gooey, take out the crackers and add the second layer of graham crackers on top to complete it.

"How to Make a Solar-Powered Oven for Outdoor Cooking" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: I am looking for a new pocketknife. Should I get a single-blade or a Swiss Army knife?
— Danny, Bethesda, Maryland

A: For most jobs, all you likely need is one blade. But you might wonder: Why settle for one blade when you can have three blades … plus a screwdriver, can opener, plastic toothpick and tweezers? If you want to Be Prepared for practically anything, get a Swiss Army knife.

Swiss Army knives have been around since the late 1800s when the Swiss military issued a knife equipped with a screwdriver so soldiers could open canned food and take apart rifles to clean them. Soon after, companies began making these multitooled pocketknives, adding more and more tools. Campers love them for their quality and versatility. You can get a BSA-branded Swiss Army pocketknife ($25-$30, scoutshop.org), some with up to a dozen tools, at the Scout Shop.

Single-blade knives stand out for simplicity and comfort. Many, like the CRKT Squid Compact ($32, crkt.com) and CRKT Tuna Compact ($56, crkt.com), fit comfortably in your hand and — when the blade is locked — give you a sturdy cutting tool. Single-blade knives also usually have features such as thumb studs, which help you open the blade with the flick of your thumb. The Kershaw Cargo ($58, kershaw.kaiusa.com) uses a textured nylon handle reinforced with steel for greater grip and durability. Remember to follow pocketknife safety rules; knives are tools, not toys. Get properly trained before you carry one.

"Should I Get a Single-Blade or a Swiss Army Knife?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Texas horned lizard

What’s that strange-looking creature? A little armored tank? A walking cactus? No, it’s a horned lizard, one of the most unusual reptiles in the U.S.

NOT FROGS OR TOADS

Horned lizards get their name from the horns on their heads and spikes along their bodies, which give them a tough, intimidating appearance. While they are called “horned toads” or “horned frogs” because of their shape and size, they are lizards, not amphibians. Their flat, wide bodies are unlike those of other lizards, which typically are long, narrow and built for speed.

There are 17 species of horned lizards, ranging from southern Canada to Mexico. Nine are in the U.S. — all west of the Mississippi River — although a few small isolated populations have been introduced in the Southeast. They generally live in hot, dry habitats like deserts and plains, but some are also in open woodlands.

The round-tailed lizard, like its name hints, has a cylindrical tail with colored bands.

WHAT’S ON THE MENU? ANTS!

Horned lizards are active mostly during the day, but they are ambush predators, and their camouflage helps them blend in among rocks, sand and other background elements. So they sit motionless and wait for prey to walk by, and then capture them with their sticky tongues. They eat mostly ants, with some species eating 100 or more per day, since ants don’t provide a lot of calories. Horned lizards have large stomachs to accommodate eating so much, resulting in their wide body shape.

Harvester ants are favored prey for many horned lizards, but they must be captured carefully. The lizards aim their tongues for the ant’s midsection so they aren’t stung or bitten. Spiders, pillbugs, beetles, grasshoppers and other arthropods are also on the menu.

Top: At Saguaro National Park in Arizona, a regal horned lizard eats an ant. See it under the tongue? Bottom: The horns of the regal horned lizard are quite long and resemble a crown.

SECRET DEFENSE WEAPON

Horned lizards are not very fast, so they rely on their excellent camouflage and staying still to avoid detection. They also can flatten themselves against the ground — so flat that they barely cast a shadow! Their horns and spikes provide some protection from predators such as snakes, roadrunners, coyotes, ravens and hawks. Horned lizards can also puff themselves up with air to make themselves look bigger and more menacing, which also makes them harder to swallow if caught.

When in danger, eight species of horned lizards also have another trick: They can squirt blood from the corner of their eyes as a last defense. Whoa! This bizarre technique is mainly used against mammals such as dogs, foxes and coyotes. They can accurately aim from several feet away at a predator’s eyes or mouth. Formic acid in the horned lizards’ blood (from eating all those ants) apparently tastes really bad to these predators, who will give up the chase.

The Texas horned lizard is the easternmost species and the official state reptile of the Lone Star State.

MORE LIFE HACKS

When it rains, horned lizards have another ingenious life hack: They can collect water on their skin by arching their tail over their head. Scales on their tail help channel water down toward their mouth. A handy desert survival trick! Like other reptiles, they can easily overheat on hot days and will move into shade, hide in animal dens or burrow under sand to keep cool. They hibernate underground when temperatures drop in winter.

These lizards are also unusual in how they reproduce. Horned lizards that live in the warmest areas lay eggs, which they bury underground to incubate and hatch on their own. Those in cooler locations and higher elevations incubate eggs internally, and the babies are born looking like miniature adults. Horned lizards may have three to 45 young at a time, depending on the species. Their offspring, which receive no parental care, have fairly low survivorship due to high predation levels. The lifespan of horned lizards is thought to be five to seven years, although legend once held they could live to be 100.

The pygmy short-horned lizard will bury itself in the sand in winter and freeze like an ice cube for months at a time. Then it will thaw out when spring arrives.

BE A CITIZEN SCIENTIST

Many horned lizard populations are declining, so they are protected by law in some states. Major threats include loss of habitat due to development and agriculture, as well as pesticide use and introduction of exotic species. Non-native fire ants have reduced the number of harvester ants in some areas, which takes away from the lizards’ food supply. Fire ants can also kill hatchlings.

The pet trade has removed many horned lizards from the wild as well. They don’t survive well in captivity (do you really want to feed a lizard 100 or more live stinging ants a day?) and therefore don’t make good pets, so please leave them where you find them.

If you would like to help as a citizen scientist, the Horned Lizard Conservation Society wants anyone who encounters these lizards to upload photos — plus date, time and GPS coordinates — to iNaturalist.com. This helps scientists better track their whereabouts and population trends.

The greater short-horned lizard is the only species that can be found in three countries.

7 FAST FACTS ABOUT HORNED LIZARDS

1. The scientific name for horned lizards — Phrynosoma — means “toadbodied.” Like toads, horned lizards don’t move very fast.

2. Horned lizards were revered by some Native American tribes who used images of them in their artwork.

3. The greater short-horned lizard is the only species that can be found in three countries. It lives in a variety of habitats from 2,000 to 10,000 feet in elevation and is the state reptile of Wyoming.

4. The horns of the regal horned lizard are quite long and resemble a crown.

5. The Texas horned lizard is the easternmost species and the official state reptile of the Lone Star State. They have disappeared from Louisiana and much of East Texas, and possibly from Arkansas and Missouri.

6. The round-tailed horned lizard, like its name hints, has a cylindrical tail with colored bands.

7. Horned lizards come in a wide range of sizes. Not counting tail lengths, the smallest species is the pygmy short-horned lizard (2 ½ inches) and the largest is the giant horned lizard (5 inches). Females are generally bigger than males.

Find out more about U.S. species of horned lizards at hornedlizards.org.

Bats and birds are their specialties, but wildlife biologists Selena Birgit Kiser and Mark Kiser love all species of critters. Both have worked for the State of Florida and previously worked for Bat Conservation International on such programs as the Great Florida Birding and Wildlife Trail and the North American Bat House Research Project.

"Discover the Cool, Unusual Horned Lizard" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: What should I use to purify water on a long trek?
— Olivia, Denver, Colorado

A: On a long trek, you can’t carry gallons of drinking water from home. You must figure out a way to rid bacteria and protozoa from water in your environment to make it safe to drink. Here are a few options.

Heat water to a rolling boil for a full minute or drop in some type of chemical treatment tablets, which often take at least a half hour to work. You can also try ultraviolet light wands, which destroy the DNA of bacteria and viruses so they can’t reproduce when you ingest them.

Another quick method involves filters. Water filtration systems force untreated water through a screen with holes so small bacteria cannot pass.

The MSR TrailShot Pocket-Sized Water Filter ($63, msrgear.com) can force up to 1 liter of water through its handheld filter every minute. It has a spout you can drink from, or you can use it to refill your water bottle. The LifeStraw Peak Series Straw ($25, lifestraw.com) also fits easily in your pack, and its filter lasts up to 5 years. It removes tiny organisms that can make you sick and filters out sand and microplastics.

"How To Purify Water on a Long Trek?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Many flashlights let you adjust the beam, often by twisting the light’s head. With the Coast HX5 ($21, coastportland.com), simply slide the head forward or back with your finger to create a flood beam or a focused beam.

The flood beam illuminates an area nearby, while the focused beam helps show objects far away to nearly 300 feet. Whichever beam you use, be careful not to shine it in anyone’s eyes.

The HX5 produces 168 lumens and runs off one AA battery with a battery life of more than 3 hours. It fits comfortably in your hand at 4 inches long and weighs 2 1⁄2 ounces.

"Stuff We Like: Coast HX5 Flashlight" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

If you bought your last pair of sunglasses in a convenience store or got them free somewhere, they’re probably fun to wear, but they might not be protecting your eyes.

Glare reflecting off snow, sand, water and even the sidewalk can burn your eyeballs and impact your vision. It’s worth spending a few extra bucks to get sunglasses that block ultraviolet light, fit your face and have the right lenses for the activities you like to do.

Here’s how to be a smart sunglass shopper.

BLOCK THE SUN’S UVB AND UVA RAYS

Good sunglasses make it easier to see in bright conditions while reducing the risk of eye damage. They should protect you from two kinds of ultraviolet (UV) light: UVB and UVA rays.

UVB rays, which cause sunburn, can also burn your eyes. Even in winter, UVB rays can burn you when reflected off the snow. UVA rays are radiation from the sun. Their effect might be less noticeable after a day at the beach, but over time, UVA rays can cause serious eye problems.

Before you buy sunglasses, make sure the pair you like blocks both kinds of rays. Most sunglasses have a sticker on the lens to let you know.

The GOODR NUCLEAR GNAR and GOODR I DO MY OWN STUNTS (pictured) sunglasses are great for small- to average-sized faces. They wrap around for extra protection for cycling, Nordic skiing and more. Both have polarized anti-fog lenses. ($45, goodr.com)

THE RIGHT FRAMES FOR YOUR FACE AND YOUR ACTIVITIES

The sunglass frame size should match your face size, and the lenses should fully cover your eyes. Some frames are metal, but most sports sunglasses have durable and lightweight plastic frames.

Take a look at the frame and make sure the joints are strong. The arms should be snug enough to your head so your shades don’t slip down or fall off, but not so tight that it hurts or gives you a headache.

If you’re doing speed sports, like biking or skiing, glasses that wrap around your head provide more coverage, stopping sunlight from sneaking around the sides and making your eyes water. More coverage will also help your peripheral vision, too.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT LENS FOR YOUR SUNGLASSES

For many activities, polycarbonate lenses are the most affordable. They’re scratch-resistant, and if you drop them, they won’t shatter and potentially cut you.

Polarized lenses substantially reduce glare. Go polarized if you’ll be on the water. Be aware they’re not great for driving or reading LCD screens. Mirrored lenses are a good alternative.

Photochromic lenses automatically adjust to changing light. They’re great for basically every activity except driving. They can also be pricey.

Interchangeable lenses of different colors allow you to choose your tint and polarization on demand.

BLENDERS CRYSTAL ORB shades have a chill vibe; they’re great for sunny days on the water, chucking a flying disc or just hanging out. The polarized blue and purple mirrored lenses provide 100% UV protection. ($59, blenderseyewear.com)

WHICH LENS COLOR IS BEST?

Lens tint is also use-specific. Choose blue for water activities. Dark colors including brown, gray and green are best for everyday use and outdoor activities. Darker lenses cut glare and reduce eyestrain in moderate-to-bright conditions, like on snow. Light colors — yellow, gold, amber and rose — excel in moderate and low light, and are best for sports like skiing and snowboarding. Light colors also improve depth perception, and they can make it easier to see in flat light.

SAFETY GLASSES VS. SUNGLASSES

Note that sunglasses cannot provide the same protection as safety glasses. Switch to the appropriate pair when you’re working with tools or certain materials, administering first aid, or participating in activities like shooting sports.

TIFOSI STRIKEOUT are some of the most affordable UVA/UVB blocking shades you can buy, and they have glare-reducing lenses. Choose from four shatterproof options. ($30, tifosioptics.com)

SUNGLASS RETAINERS

Unless there’s a good reason not to wear a strap — say, while mountain biking, where it could snag on a limb — it’s wise to add a retainer. You paid good money for good sunglasses; you don’t want your last look at them to be them sinking to a river bottom.

WHERE TO SHOP FOR SUNGLASSES

Sunglass-specific shops, or outdoor stores usually have knowledgeable staff, and you don’t have to worry about buying fake or counterfeit sunglasses. If you shop online, make sure to buy from a reputable company or website.

If you have your heart set on a pair of pricey shades, keep an eye out for models being discontinued, holiday sales and discounts on your first purchase, which is common on manufacturer websites.

"How to Buy Good Sunglasses" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: I’m looking for comfortable hiking boots that are affordable and waterproof.
— Charles, Canal Winchester, Ohio

A: Start thinking about your footwear well before your hike. Being prepared applies to shopping, too, especially if you want to save some cash.

First, visit a local shoe store or outdoors store and try on their boots. The best way to gauge a boot’s comfort is to wear one and walk around. Wear your hiking socks and liners, too, so you can make your most accurate judgment. Your heel shouldn’t slip, but you should have enough room to wiggle your toes.

After testing the boots, you now know which pair fits best. You can shop around or wait until that pair goes on sale.

Waterproof, breathable boots help keep your feet dry to prevent blisters. The material, for example, in the Columbia Trailstorm Mid Waterproof Shoe ($110, columbia.com) and the Scarpa Rush Mid GTX ($199, scarpa.com) works great at this. Wearing each pair, I stood in a puddle that submerged the shoes up to the laces. After about a minute, I stepped out, and my feet were still completely dry.

During a hike, the inside of your boots might still get wet from your feet sweating, so clean and air out your boots.

"Where To Find Comfortable and Affordable Hiking Boots?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

It’s important that properly fitted U.S. Coast Guard–approved life jackets are worn by everyone engaged in boating activities. You can learn more about life jackets in the following three safety videos.

LIFE JACKET SAFETY

Life jacket types: The best life jacket is the one you’re wearing. There are various types of life jackets, so make sure your life jacket is appropriate for the aquatic activity you’re doing. You should also check the label to make sure it is approved by the Coast Guard.

Proper fit: A snug fits is a proper fit. All straps, buckles and zippers must be secure.

Life jacket condition: Life jackets with tears, broken pieces or buoyancy loss should not be used.

When to wear a life jacket: Before you get in a boat, you should put on a life jacket. You should also wear a life jacket in clear water more than 12 feet deep, in murky water where you can’t see your feet when treading water or if you’re in flowing water.

HOW TO PROPERLY FIT A LIFE JACKET

How do you find a life jacket that fits correctly?

1. Read the label to select your size. A life jacket that is too big or too small for you is not safe.

2. Don the life jacket.

3. Fasten the restraints. Make sure all straps, buckles and zippers are secure.

4. While on shore, hold your arms up and have a buddy grab the top of your life jacket and lift. A life jacket is fitted correctly when it does not rise above your shoulders on land or above your ears in the water. If either occurs, adjust the straps or exchange the life jacket for one of the proper size.

In calm, shallow water, you can test the fit by relaxing and tilting your head back. Your chin should be well above water. If it isn’t, readjust for a snugger fit or try a life jacket with a higher buoyancy rating.

5. Safe Swim Defense and Safety Afloat policies govern all Scouting aquatics activities.

HOW TO READ AND UNDERSTAND THE NEW LIFE JACKET LABELS

Older life jackets were labeled as Type I, II, III, IV or V. That old system has been replaced, and life jackets now come with a new type of label. There are four key parts to the new labels:

1. Buoyancy: Look for an icon on the label containing a number. The higher the number, the better you float.

2. Turning performance: This icon indicates whether the life jacket will autorotate you to a face-up position if you’re face down in the water and unable to move yourself.

3. Activities: These icons indicate which activities are suitable for this life jacket

4. U.S. Coast Guard Approved: This indicates that the life jacket has been tested repeatedly for in-water performance.

Remember to check your life jacket before you wear it. A life jacket with tears, broken pieces or buoyancy loss should be disposed of.

"How to Safely Use a Life Jacket" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

If you go to a beach with breaking waves, like along an ocean shoreline or a large lake, there’s a possibility rip currents will form. After waves break on shore, water surges back out in a channel — sometimes as narrow as 10 feet wide or as wide as 100 feet. This fast-moving water can carry sand, sediment and swimmers hundreds of feet away from land.

Swimmers who get caught in rip currents can lose their balance, panic and drown as they are pulled out into the water. You might have heard terms like “undertow” or “rip tide,” giving the impression that the water pulls you under. It doesn’t; it pulls you out.

It can be difficult to spot while in the water, but you can tell where a rip current might be as waves often don’t break in that area. You might also see foam or seaweed being pulled out.

If you get caught in a rip current, don’t exhaust yourself trying to swim against the current. Here’s what you should do instead:

• Don’t panic.
• Shout to people on shore for help.
• Swim across the current, parallel to the shoreline, until you’re clear of the current. When you reach calmer water, head back to shore.
• If you get tired, float on your back until the current calms.

Scientists released green dye at a North Carolina beach to show how rip currents flow. (Courtesy of NOAA)

"How to Escape From a Rip Current" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

If you see someone trying to rescue the person in trouble, be ready to help. Make sure someone has called for help, and keep an eye on the person who needs rescuing. If they go underwater, remember where you last saw them.

To rescue someone, think about the four water rescue techniques: Reach, Throw, Row, Go. This is an easy way to remember how to help someone in the water. It’s important to know when to use each one, starting with the easiest and moving to the most difficult if necessary.

1. REACH

If the victim is conscious and close to the shore, look for a long stick, pole or paddle to perform a rescue.

2. THROW

If you can’t reach the victim, try throwing a buoyant object to them.

3. ROW

If you can’t reach the victim and the victim is unable to grasp a buoyant object, race to the victim in a boat.

4. GO

A swimming rescue is the final option. Only use it when the other options don’t work. Grab a floating aid and have the victim grab it. Make contact with the victim only if absolutely necessary. Never use this rescue option unless you are a strong swimmer.

You can learn more about water rescue techniques by earning the Lifesaving merit badge.

"Reach, Throw, Row, Go! Learn the 4 Water Rescue Techniques" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Bikepacking is a camping trip you take on your bike. It’s a fun way to see the sights from a saddle, cruising roads and trails. Here’s what you need to get started.

PREPARATION FOR BIKEPACKING

CHOOSE A DESTINATION: Adventure can happen anywhere, even when you set out from your back door.

Ultra-endurance racer and avid bikepacker Lael Wilcox says to go where you want to be, where you can see what you want to see. Get ideas for routes by checking out topographic maps (which will likely include backroads) or asking local bicycling shops and clubs. You can find an extensive archive of bikepacking information, with detailed route notes, including where to restock and sleep, at bikepacking.com

If you have a bike computer or GPS watch, download your route before you go. You can also use your phone to navigate. Many apps, like Komoot, let you download routes, including some free downloads. It’s a good idea to carry a hard copy map as well. Study the mileage, terrain, traffic conditions, weather and potential rest stops. Let others know about your trip.

Before any trip, make sure you have qualified adult supervision, use the buddy system, make sure your equipment is in good condition and obey all traffic laws. Prepare like you would for any strenuous adventure, including being physically ready.

THE GEAR YOU’LL NEED FOR BIKEPACKING

Bicycle

Bikes are designed for different purposes, but most any mountain or road bike with terrain-appropriate tires will do. Hardtail mountain bikes and gravel bikes are both popular for bikepacking. Wider tires are more forgiving in off-road terrain. Make sure every part of the bike works properly. Also, your bike should include mounts for various gear.

Bags

The lighter the load, the more fun the ride. Carry your gear so it has minimal impact on your body and the bike’s handling. Drybags with straps or bikepacking-specific bags are the lightest and most comfortable options. Most strap to your handlebars, top tube and frame or under your seat. Bikepacking bags, sometimes called “panniers,” from outdoors retailers ($30-$100 at REI) are some of the most affordable.

Waterproof bags keep gear dry, but you can make any bag waterproof enough by using a trash bag inside. Wilcox says simple is better.

“Stuff your sleeping bag and sleeping pad into a drybag and strap it to the handlebars,” she says.

She recommends the Sea to Summit eVent Compression Dry Sack ($35-$55, seatosummit.com) because you can tension the straps to make your sleep kit less bulky. The eVent comes in sizes as large as 30 liters. You can also carry gear in a small backpack, but many riders prefer bags that mount to the bike instead of bags you carry on your body. Riding with a backpack on a bike tour can be hot and feel heavy.

Sleeping

Look for a lightweight sleeping bag and pad. You might also want to bring a tent or tarp for protection from the weather and bugs.

Depending on where you go, temperatures can drop, even in summer. Choose a sleep system that will keep you warm. The Therm-A-Rest Corus ($270, thermarest.com) is a versatile quilt that weighs just over a pound and is designed to keep you warm down to 32 degrees. Pair your sleeping bag with a compact insulated pad, like the Klymit Insulated Static V ($100, scoutshop.org). It’s filled with synthetic insulation to protect you from the cold ground.

A bikepacking-specific tent has poles that collapse shorter than a standard tent so you can carry it on your handlebar without it sticking out too far. If you want a compact tent, get the lightest one you can afford. If a tarp will do, bring that instead.

You can flip your bike upside down and drape the tarp over it, then stake out the corners with cord and tent stakes. Check out Klymit’s Roamer Throw Tarp ($45, klymit.com) — it weighs a little more than 8 ounces and features six grommets. Be sure to avoid mud so your gear shifters aren’t damaged.

Personal Gear

Pack gear that’s light and multifunctional. If you’ll go on hikes, wear bike shoes that can handle multisport adventures, like Ride Concepts’ Vice ($100, rideconcepts.com). If you’ll be near water, think about bringing lightweight sandals, like Xero Shoes Z-Trail EV ($80, xeroshoes.com).

Dress in layers to prepare for a variety of weather and temperatures. If you’re on a budget, get creative. You can cut a head hole in a trash bag and wear it as a rain poncho. Bikepacking sometimes requires improvising. Also, remember to pack a first-aid kit.

Helmet

Don’t leave home without one. Use one with a multidirectional impact protection system (MIPS), which gives you the most protection in a crash. Some good choices are the Bell Sidetrack II ($60, bellhelmets.com) and Giro Fixture MIPS II ($70, giro.com).

Food

Dehydrated meals are a great lightweight choice, whether you buy them or make your own. If your route passes through towns, plan on restocking instead of carrying everything you need from the start of your trip.

Water

Carry water in a hydration pack or water bottle. A compact water filter, like the Lifestraw Peak Series Collapsible Squeeze 1L Bottle With Filter ($44, lifestraw.com), lets you drink straight from the bottle and refill along your route. Bring enough water bottles to keep you hydrated between water stops.

If you’re using a frame bag, you likely won’t have space for bottle cages. Try putting a hydration reservoir inside your frame bag and threading the hose so you can reach it, and then securing it with zip ties. Use a Platypus SoftBottle ($10-$13, platy.com) to carry spare water. The 1-liter bottles pack flat when empty.

Bring some electrolyte drink mixes, such as Nuun Sport ($7.50, nuunlife.com) or Gatorade.

Tool Kit

Zip ties, duct tape, a cable, cleat bolt (for clipless pedals), hex wrenches, a tube, tire levers, a pump and a multitool are bike-touring repair kit basics. Personalize your kit from there. Know how to use your tools and practice with them before your trip.

PACKING YOUR BIKE

Carry your heaviest gear under your seat, whether in a seat bag, frame bag or strapped onto your seat rails using nylon straps, such as those sold by Voile ($6-$19.50, voile.com). Carry the lightest gear on your handlebars. Too much weight on the handlebars can make it hard to steer.

"Get Your Bicycle Ready and Grab This Gear to Go Bikepacking" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Not all campfires are built equally. You can arrange your firewood to get different results, depending on the weather and how you want to manage the fire.

Before you begin, consider the conditions: It might be too dry or windy to safely light a fire. Build on gravel, sand or bare earth that is well away from trees, brush and dry grass, preferably in an established fire ring. Have plenty of water nearby to extinguish the blaze when you’re done.

Here are three different ways to lay the firewood:

• Tepee: Ball up your tinder and set it on the ground. Place small kindling sticks around the tinder, tepee style. Add larger sticks in the same way after the fire is lit. This type of fire lay is easy to light and get going.

• Lean-to: Place a stick into the ground with the upper end pointing into the wind. Lean the stick against a log and place your tinder underneath. Add kindling and larger sticks on either side of the first stick. Air drawn into the front of the lean-to will help feed the flames.

• Log-cabin: Set two sticks on the ground, a few inches apart. Place your tinder and kindling in between, tepee style. Stack two more sticks, pointing the opposite direction, on top of the two sticks on the ground. Continue stacking, alternating the directions of the two sticks. This style can create a long-burning fire.

Find types of tinder you can use to help start a fire at go.scoutlife.org/campfire

"3 Different Ways To Lay the Firewood for a Campfire" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Bears can catch a scent miles away. The inside of a bear’s nose is 100 times bigger than ours, and it’s full of sensory cells.

That’s why you need to properly store your smellables when you’re camping in bear country. This includes food, garbage, toiletries, lotions and insect repellent. Don’t stow this stuff in your backpack or tent.

Here are some tips to help keep you safe from bears:

• Never snack in your tent.
• Keep all camp “smellables” stored properly, using bear-resistant containers to protect them from hungry bears. Smellables include any item with a scent: food and items like canned goods, bottles, drinks, soaps, cosmetics, toiletries, trash, coolers and unwashed items.
• Have out only the food that you are actually using; if you’re not using it, put it back into the food locker.
• Treat your trash like food: keep it in your food locker or dispose of it in a bear-proof dumpster.

To store food and smellables in a bear bag, find a tree with a sturdy horizontal branch about 20 feet above the ground. Toss a 50-foot-long cord over the branch. Stash your provisions in a sturdy plastic trash bag or in a waterproof stuff sack, and then close and secure it to one end of the cord.

Pull the other end of the cord to raise the bag until the bottom of the bag is at least 12 feet off the ground and 8 feet away from tree trunks — well beyond the reach of any bears. Tie the free end of the cord to a tree or stake.

You can also try storing your stuff in heavy-duty metal boxes or bear canisters, which are made from strong plastic.

Properly storing your smellables deters not only bears, but also other hungry critters like raccoons and mice.

"How To Stay Safe From Bears" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: Every time I use my propane stove, it leaves black soot all over my cookware. How can I stop this from happening? What is causing that soot?
— Alicia, Peoria, Arizona

A: Flames on propane stoves should burn blue. Check the color of your flames — are they yellow? That’s a sign the fuel and oxygen are not mixing properly, which then forms carbon particles, or soot.

This soot sticks to your pots and pans, preventing them from heating efficiently. Clean your cookware after cooking to keep any soot from building up.

To prevent soot from forming, disassemble and clean your stove’s parts. There might be a blockage or a leak. By cleaning and inspecting each part, you might discover a piece that needs to be replaced.

When you reassemble your stove, make sure the nozzle fits correctly and that you’re using the correct fuel for your stove. Remember to use your equipment according to the manufacturer’s instructions and use only BSA-recommended chemical fuels, like propane, butane and isobutane.

"Why Does My Propane Stove Leave Soot on My Cookware?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Sleeping pads provide cushioning to help you get a good night’s sleep.

Most are either inflatable, like the Therm-a-Rest Trail Scout ($60, thermarest.com), or are made with closed-cell foam, like the Therm-a-Rest Z Lite SOL ($40, thermarest.com).

Closed-cell foam pads are usually more durable, but they’re bulkier. The Z Lite SOL’s foam is softer on top for comfort and denser on the bottom for durability. Inflatable pads roll down to fit snugly inside your backpack. The Trail Scout packs down to less than a foot long.

There’s no rule saying you can use only one pad. By layering multiple pads, you get more padding and raise your R-value, which basically measures how warm a pad is.

With the Z Lite SOL’s 2.0 R-value rating combined with the Trail Scout’s 3.1, together they should provide enough insulation for all-season camping.

"Stuff We Like: Therm-a-Rest" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Spring means it is time for the arrival of several billion feathered visitors from Mexico, Central America and South America. Many of these birds make incredible journeys every year to find the perfect place to nest and raise their young in the U.S. and Canada.

The wide variety of migratory birds includes many colorful songbirds: warblers, tanagers, vireos, buntings and orioles, to name a few. Ducks, cranes, shorebirds, raptors and hummingbirds also migrate.

Hundreds of bird species in North America migrate each fall and spring, nesting in the northern part of their range and wintering in the southern. Migration distances vary — from only a few miles up and down a mountain to hundreds or thousands of miles.

A yellow-rumped warbler in flight.

WHY DO BIRDS MIGRATE?

Some species are considered “residents,” such as cardinals, American robins, American goldfinches, chickadees and titmice. They stay in the same location year-round, finding enough food to raise young in the summer to keep them alive during the winter. But the majority of birds migrate because the benefits of migrating outweigh the costs of staying put. There are often better food sources, weather and habitat in the tropics. Species that winter in the U.S. make up for this by having more offspring than those that migrate.

Male indigo bunting

Birds migrate along four major flyways in North America: Pacific, Central, Mississippi and Atlantic. Each spring, most western species travel from Mexico into the U.S. from the tropics. Many eastern species launch from the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico and fly over the Gulf of Mexico to reach the southeastern U.S. Some birds that winter in the tropics fly north through the Caribbean, using the islands as stopovers, until they reach south Florida.

A line of geese fly past a full moon in Northern California.

NIGHT FLIGHTS

Most birds migrate at night, using astronomical cues to help guide them. Also at night, air currents are typically more stable, with no thermal drafts to slow them down. Plus, the birds are less likely to overheat from constant flapping or become food for daytime predators, such as hawks. They use flight calls (different from their songs) to communicate with flockmates so they don’t get separated and also to help each other navigate around obstacles, such as skyscrapers and cell towers.

Birds that cross the Gulf of Mexico fly up to 650 miles in one fell swoop. That amazing voyage might take 18 hours for small songbirds. Leaving in the evening and arriving the next afternoon in the U.S., they’ll stop for food and water before continuing north. Bad weather, including rain and strong headwinds, brings “fallouts.” In these situations, large numbers of exhausted birds will land anywhere they can as soon as they reach shore. Otherwise, a strong tailwind can help push them beyond the coast, and they might continue a while longer until they need to rest and eat.

A pair of rufous hummingbirds along with two female Anna’s hummingbirds at a nectar feeder.

HOW CAN YOU HELP MIGRATING BIRDS?

In addition to climate change and habitat loss, birds face huge obstacles during migration: weather, predators, colliding with glass in buildings, outdoor cats and eating insects sprayed with toxic pesticides.

No wonder numbers have been plummeting for many species over the past century. But you can help! Use UV stickers or screens on windows, keep your kitty inside (or on a leash or in a catio outdoors), plant native plants, use fewer yard chemicals, and provide fresh water and food for birds.

Rose-breasted grosbeak

Spring migration is a fabulous time to go birding. You can try attracting birds to your yard with feeders and baths. This might be the only time during the year that you’ll find certain species. For example, at our home in north Florida, we get rose-breasted grosbeaks only during spring and fall migration. For about a week, they visit our feeders and bird baths, and use the native habitat around our house for rest and protection. Then they’re back on their way to their final destinations.

Spring bird migration across the Florida Keys.

On the Radar

There’s a nifty tool scientists use to count numbers of migrating birds in flight: weather radar. That’s right — flocks of birds traveling together are often large enough to see on radar. Using this data, scientists can see how many migrate from Canada/northern U.S. to temperate/subtropical areas of the U.S. (short-distance migration) versus how many migrate from North America to the tropics.

Bats and birds are their specialties, but wildlife biologists Selena Birgit Kiser and Mark Kiser love all species of critters. Both have worked for the State of Florida and previously worked for Bat Conservation International on such programs as the Great Florida Birding and Wildlife Trail and the North American Bat House Research Project.

"It’s Flight Time! Get Ready for the Incredible Spring Bird Migration" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Whether you’re taking a break mid-hike, kicking back around the campfire or sitting down to eat a meal, a camp chair keeps you comfy and off the ground.

Which chair is best depends on how you’ll use it. The best one for backpacking isn’t always the one you’ll want for car camping. If you’re backpacking, pick one that’s lightweight and low bulk. It can be something as simple as an inflatable seat or a foldable cushion. You can find small collapsible stools that are easy to pack.

You can also make your own camp chair: Use your pioneering skills to assemble a large tripod and hang a tarp underneath to create a chair. Find instructions at go.scoutlife.org/campchair

If you prefer to buy, consider these great options:

7 GREAT CAMP CHAIRS

Slip the ALPS MOUNTAINEERING TRI-LEG STOOL out of its tube-shaped carry case and unhook a strip of Velcro — it instantly turns into a three-legged seat. The steel-leg stool sets up and breaks down in seconds, and it’s easy to slip into the side pocket of a pack. It can hold up to 250 pounds. 2 lbs. ($25, alpsmountaineering.com)

The original backpacking camp chair is now lighter — and it rolls. Durable, dirt-repelling and padded with cored-out closed-cell foam, the CRAZY CREEK HEX 2.0 ORIGINAL CHAIR is one you can take anywhere and will last a long time. It has a 250-pound weight capacity, and it’s available in a larger size for those 6 feet and taller. 18.5 oz. ($65, crazycreek.com)

Younger Scouts should consider the REI CO-OP KIDS’ CAMP CHAIR. It has an armrest pocket, and the strap that keeps the chair closed when folded doubles as a chair carrier. It’s rated to support up to 125 pounds. 4 lbs. ($40, rei.com)

Turn your air mattress into a camp chair with THERM-A-REST TREKKER CHAIR. The kit has sleeves to hold each end of your air mattress. Side straps let you adjust the recline. It comes in two sizes to match your mattress width. 10 oz. ($50, thermarest.com)

With a seat that’s a foot off the ground and a back that puts you in a pleasantly relaxed position, the steel-frame KELTY LOWDOWN CHAIR is one of the most comfortable chairs you can buy. An insulated drink holder is expandable to hold a book or games. 7 lbs., 6 oz. ($75, kelty.com)

Like a miniature closed-cell foam sleeping pad, the z-fold NEMO CHIPPER is super light, insulating and 100% waterproof. Made from foam scraps from Nemo’s sleeping pad production, each one is unique. Folded, the sections nest to keep it compact. 7.6 oz. ($20, nemoequipment.com)

For a lightweight chair perfect for your next hike, the new BSA 37°N BACKPACKING CHAIR sets up easily thanks to its shock-corded poles. The aluminum frame and cloth material can accommodate up to 264 pounds. It also comes with a zippered carrying case. 1 lb., 14 oz. ($35, scoutshop.org)

"How To Pick the Best Camp Chair for Any Outdoor Activity" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Relax around camp by building a comfortable camping chair. It’s easy if you have the pioneering skills.

WHAT YOU NEED TO MAKE A CAMP CHAIR

• Three spars about 4 inches in diameter, two 8 feet long and one 12 to 15 feet long
• Four sections of rope, one 30 feet long and three 3 to 4 feet long
• 6-by-8-foot (or slightly bigger) tarp, folded into an isosceles triangle
• Three heavy rocks slightly smaller than baseballs but larger than golf balls

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A CAMP CHAIR

Step One: Determine which ends of each spar are the thickest, and designate those as the base of each spar. Lay the two shorter spars together on the ground, parallel to each other, with each base at the same end and even with each other.

Lay the long spar down in the opposite direction, with its base at the opposite end from the bases of the shorter spars, with only about two feet of overlap at the tops. Keep them all parallel.

Use the 30-foot rope to perform a tripod lashing around all three spars.

Step Two: Fold each rock into a corner of the triangle-shaped tarp and twist to create a pocket that will hold the rock. Then tie one of the three shorter ropes around the pocket holding the rock by wrapping a few times and tying off the end with two half hitches.

Be sure to leave 2 to 3 feet of rope available. Repeat for each corner.

Step Three: Attach the tarp to the tripod by wrapping the remaining rope around each spar once or twice and finishing with a taut-line hitch.

The longest spar should act as the back leg of the camp chair, so attach the rope at higher point on that spar to create the back of the chair.

Step Four: Relax comfortably in your camping chair.

"How to Use Lashings to Build a Comfortable Camp Chair" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: The survival kit my parents gave me came with a little sewing kit. What is that for?
— Connor, Franklin, Tennessee

A: Survival kits should include the Scout outdoor essentials, along with some gear to help you signal for help, protect you from the elements and make repairs. The sewing kit is for repairs.

When your tent or clothes rip, you can use a needle and thread to fix them. But your supplies are helpful only if you know how to use them.

Practice sewing on your merit badge sash or uniform. Insert thread through the eye of a needle and secure the long end of the thread with a knot. Place your patch where you want it. Use double-sided tape to keep it from moving while you sew.

Push the needle up through the sash or uniform and the patch, pulling the thread through to the knot. Push the needle down back through the fabric and the patch and pull it tightly. This is called a stitch. Repeat this motion all around the edges of the patch, keeping your stitches close together.

When you get to the end, don’t pull your last stitch tight. You’ll have a loop that you can pull your needle through a couple of times. Then, pull it tightly to secure the stitch. Cut off any excess thread.

"Why Is There a Sewing Kit in My Survival Kit?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Before you shoot a bow and arrow, first learn the safety rules and wear the proper equipment, including an arm guard and shooting glove or tab. Inspect your bow to see that it is properly strung and in good condition.

If all is good and you’re in an established, safe range under trained adult supervision, then you can go through the nine-step process of shooting: stance, nock, set, pre-draw, draw, anchor, aim, release and follow-through.

STANCE: For target shooting, position your body parallel to the flight of the arrow. Stand comfortably, keeping your feet about shoulders’ width apart. Stand up straight, balance your weight on both feet and look at your target.

NOCK: Nocking the arrow means placing the arrow on the string and the bow.

SET: Setting involves holding the bow with one hand and placing three fingers of your other hand on the bowstring with your index finger above the arrow and middle two fingers below it. For example, if you’re right-handed, hold the bow with your left hand and place three fingers of your right hand on the string.

PRE-DRAW: A pre-draw is when you raise the bow until the arrow is pointed at your target. If the arrow keeps falling off the rest, try putting all three fingers below the arrow.

DRAW: To draw, pull back the drawstring, keeping your arm and elbow at shoulder level.

ANCHOR: The anchor point is where your hand and bowstring touch your face at full-draw. This can be under your chin or at the side of your face.

AIM: Aim where you want to shoot and relax your fingers, releasing the bowstring.

RELEASE: As you release, maintain your stance and keep your eyes on your target.

FOLLOW-THROUGH: Try to move as little as possible to complete your follow-through.

WHAT KIND OF BOW IS FOR YOU?

RECURVE BOW AND LONGBOW: A longbow is about as tall as the person who’s using it. A recurve bow has tips that curve out and away from the archer. It’s more efficient than a longbow.

COMPOUND BOW: Representing a significant advance in technology from the recurve bow and longbow, a compound bow uses a system of cables and pulleys to give an archer more power without requiring more energy.

"How To Take Aim Like Robin Hood With a Bow and Arrow" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You plan to bake banana nut bread in a Dutch oven during an upcoming campout. Sounds delicious — but not everyone in your patrol might think so.

Millions of people are allergic or intolerant to certain foods. They could have mild or severe reactions if they eat them. Some of the more common foods people are allergic to include:

• Milk
• Eggs
• Fish
• Shellfish (crab, lobster, shrimp)
• Tree nuts (almonds, walnuts, pecans)
• Peanuts
• Wheat
• Soybeans

Some common intolerances are lactose, which is found in dairy products, and gluten, which is in most breads.

If someone in your patrol has food allergies or intolerances, talk with them and their family about what needs to be done to help keep them safe. Often, a menu adjustment is required — you can still bake banana bread, but leave out the nuts. Or you can find a tasty substitute like cooking chicken instead of shrimp.

Carefully check ingredient labels, because some allergens can appear in soups, sauces and meats.

Also, when you’re in camp, be careful about cross-contamination. If someone is allergic to peanuts and the patrol is having peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, don’t use the same knife for both jars. After the knife for the peanut butter has been dipped into the jelly jar, that jelly now has that peanut allergen in it, so the person with the allergy can’t even have a jelly sandwich.

Preparing meals with food allergies in mind keeps everyone safe and helps you make meals everyone can enjoy.

"Be Courteous About Allergies in the Camp Kitchen" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

The overhand knot is usually one of the first knots that Cub Scouts learn how to tie. It’s a simple knot that can be used for different purposes, like stopping a rope from slipping through a pulley or hole, or making it easier to grip. The overhand knot is also the first step for several other knots.

With just a few steps, you can learn to tie the overhand knot. All you need is a single strand of rope.

1. First, make a loop in the end of a rope.

2. Next, tuck the end of the rope through the loop.

3. Pull the end of the rope to tighten the knot.

If you need to stop a rope from slipping through a larger hole, you may need a bigger knot. To create a larger stopper knot, you can add a second overhand knot after the first one. This will increase the size of the knot, making it more effective at stopping the rope.

"How to Tie an Overhand Knot" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: What backpack should I get to hold all my stuff?
— Shyaam, Ashburn, Virginia

A: Will you be going on short day hikes or weeklong treks into the wilderness? The farther away from civilization you are, the more gear and clothes you’ll want to take.

Backpack capacity is measured in liters. Many daypacks hold 15-30 liters, perfect for fitting all your essentials. For weekend trips, look at packs with 40-60 liters. Longer treks might call for even larger packs.

The Gregory Focal 48 ($220, gregorypacks.com) has 44 liters of space. This includes six zippered pockets. Stuff those pockets with smaller items you access often, like a flashlight or a map. The Focal also has sleeves to hold water bottles and hydration bladders. Strap bulkier items, like a sleeping pad or tent, to the outside of the pack.

Women’s versions of the same backpack fit differently. The Focal’s counterpart, the Gregory Facet 45 ($220, gregorypacks.com), holds 42 liters of gear, but the torso length and hipbelt are shorter. As with any pack, try it on before buying.

"What Backpack to Hold All My Stuff?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

There’s an old camping trick of transforming an empty tin box used for mints into a tiny, lightweight kit for a few first-aid, survival or fishing items.

You can use that same idea with Whiskware Snacking Containers ($14, whiskware.com), and you’ll have a lot more room than what you’d get from a 1.7-ounce tin. Two of the three plastic containers have a cup’s worth of volume, while the other is a one-third cup. All three stack on top of each other and interlock.

The twist-on lids stay secure, keeping your gear (or snacks for the trail) from spilling. The reusable containers also come in different colors and styles.

"Stuff We Like: Whiskware Snacking Containers" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: I lost my sunglasses on my troop’s last campout. What should I get to replace them?
— Jackson, Minneapolis, Minnesota

A: To protect your eyes, you’ll want a pair that blocks ultraviolet rays. These sunrays, which can contribute to cancer and sunburns, can also damage every part of your eyes. Many sunglasses have some degree of UVA/UVB protection, but check the label to see how much.

For clarity and protection, shop for sunglasses that have both 100% UVA/UVB protection and polarized lenses. Even in the winter, it’s a good idea to wear shades because snow reflects sunlight. Polarized lenses don’t add any ultraviolet ray protection, but they do reduce glare.

The Tifosi Swank ($25, tifosioptics.com) comes in many colored lens tints: blue, red, yellow, brown and gray. These colors help filter light and can enhance your vision in certain settings. Yellow and red tints often help in the snow.

Shady Rays Signature Series Black Glacier ($54, shadyrays.com) has a durable frame and shatter-resistant lenses. If they do break or you lose them, the company has replacement programs.

To keep your new shades from falling off, attach a fabric strap to the glasses’ arms.

"I Lost My Sunglasses. What Should I Get to Replace Them?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Sledding is a super-fun winter activity, but you can do more with your sled than race downhill. Some sleds can make winter backpacking easier by helping haul your gear.

Polar explorer Eric Larsen, who has trekked to the north pole many times, says carrying gear in a sled or “pulk” is more efficient than carrying gear on your back.

“Not only do you not get as sweaty when you’re pulling your gear instead of carrying it,” Larsen tells SL, “but it’s easier to manage moisture and adjust layers.”

HOW TO MAKE A PULK

It’s easy to make any toboggan-style plastic sled part of your winter camping kit.

Step 1. Start with an inexpensive plastic kit. Drill holes (or ask a parent for help drilling holes) in the front rim so you can attach a rope on either side of the front of the sled. Reinforce the holes with metal hardware for durability.

Step 2. Then set up your tow ropes. Thread a rope through the holes on each side of the front rim of the sled.

If you’ll be traveling on uneven terrain, thread your ropes through a section of narrow PVC pipe — one piece of pipe per side. The PVC pipe helps give you the best control.

Finally, tie the end of each piece of rope to a carabiner. You can clip those carabiners to the waistbelt of your pack when you’re ready to tow the sled.

Step 3. For added control, cross your ropes when you attach them to your pack. Make sure the ropes are long enough so you’re not kicking the sled with your skis or snowshoes.

Larsen likes to make his sled ropes long enough so he can walk back to the sled without detaching it from his pack. He uses butterfly knots to make the rope sections longer or shorter. To learn how to tie this knot, visit go.scoutlife.org/butterflyknot or watch the video below.

Larsen also recommends that you don’t tie your sled to the back of your pack: “Make a bridle, and clip your sled rope carabiners near your hips where your pack’s load lifters come in so that you’re pulling with your center of gravity.”

HOW TO PACK YOUR BACKPACKING SLED

Sledding with your gear is less strenuous than carrying it, but it’s still possible to overdo it. Make good choices about what to bring, especially since you’re also weighed down with extra clothing to stay warm.

When packing your sled, distribute the weight to keep the sled stable and balanced. Put the heaviest gear on the bottom and toward the back. Put your lightest gear in the front. Larsen likes to keep extra mitts, goggles, an extra layer of clothes, water and snacks in a small bag at the front of the sled so he can get to them easily.

If you have access to a waterproof duffel, pack your gear in that. If not, pack your gear in heavy-duty contractor bags inside any duffel bag. Keep any gear you want to be able to access during the day in a daypack or small duffel, and secure both bags to the sled. Once your sled is loaded, wrap a tarp over your duffels to protect everything from the weather. Lace bungees or cord across the sled to secure your gear.

When you get to camp, you can use the tarp on the snow-covered ground to keep everything dry when you’re unloading. And when you’re on the trail, you can use your loaded sled as a chair when you take a break. If you have on skis, you can unclip yourself from your sled and back up — with a ski on either side of the sled — so you won’t have to take off your skis to take a rest. If you opt not to use PVC pipe, like Larsen, you won’t need to unclip.

RECOMMENDED SLEDS FOR FUN AND WINTER HIKING

“When it comes to backpacking sleds, the inexpensive solution is actually the best solution,” Larsen says. “A cheap sled will be light, easy to use and also fun when you get to camp.”

Strap a SUPERIO ROUND SNOW SLED ($20, superiobrand.com) to the outside of your pack, and when you get to an open hill, slip it off and hop on for a ride. The sled measures 24 inches across and is made with heavy-duty plastic. It also has hand grips on either side so you can hold on as you zip downhill. Superio also makes another round sled with elevated handles for $26.

To tow your gear, you’ll need a toboggan-style sled like the ERA GROUP EXPEDITION PRO UTILITY SLED ($70, eragroup.ca). This sled is designed for pulling gear, not for sliding. Its heavy-duty polyethylene plastic weighs just 5 pounds and comes with reinforced grommets. At 5 feet long and almost 2 feet across, you should be able to pack a lot of gear.

A cheaper sled can work just as well, like the FROST RUSH LARGE TOBOGGAN SLED ($30, machrus.com). It comes with predrilled holes for tow ropes and cutout handles that can be used to tie down gear. It has a slick bottom to help you glide across the snow as you ride on it.

GUIDE TO SAFE SLEDDING

When you go sledding, make sure the hill is safe and free of obstacles like rocks and trees. Even if the hill doesn’t have any obstacles, still wear a helmet. Have two separate paths: one for sledding down and one for walking back up.

For more info on winter sports safety, visit go.scoutlife.org/wintersports

"How to Use a Sled to Make a Pulk for Backpacking in the Snow" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You can prepare meals at camp a few different ways: by camp stove, open fire, charcoal grill, solar oven or Dutch oven.

Dutch ovens are heavy cast-iron pots that make baking outdoors easy. You can also steam, fry, sauté or boil food in them. Some Dutch ovens are made with aluminum, which makes them a lot lighter. The design of both is the same: a round pot with legs and a rimmed lid to hold hot coals.

This design lets you evenly cook by placing coals above and below the oven. You can adjust the temperature by adding or removing coals. For example, if you want to bake something at 350 degrees and you have a 12-inch Dutch oven, you put 17 coals on top and eight underneath. To bump up the temperature to 400, 19 coals go on top and 10 go under.

Dutch ovens come in different sizes. Use them on the ground on durable, fireproof material, like rock, gravel or dirt. Always have a bucket of water handy to douse any wayward flames or extinguish coals when you’re done cooking.

HOW MANY BRIQUETTES GO ON TOP AND BELOW A DUTCH OVEN?

When it comes to baking, knowing the size of your Dutch oven is important. Depending on the size of your Dutch oven, the amount of charcoal you need to use will vary in order to reach the desired temperature.

To figure out how much charcoal you need, use the chart provided which shows how many briquettes you need for your oven size.

Remember to use fewer coals on the bottom of the oven than on the top, as this will help prevent food from burning on the bottom. Also, remember to bring extra charcoal in case the wind picks up or it’s very cold outside.

Find Dutch oven recipes, from pizza to pineapple upside-down cake by visiting go.scoutlife.org/dutchoven

"Conversion Chart for Dutch Oven Cooking Times and Temperatures" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Twelve-year-old Erick Cole was sick at heart, and scared. Erick and his little brother, Andy, 4, had been sledding together out in the Nebraska snow. When it came time to go home, Erick decided to make another run; Andy said he’d wait for his big brother at the bottom of the hill.

But as Erick reached the end of his final slide, he discovered Andy had vanished! The temperature was dropping quickly, and soon Erick was desperate in his search for Andy.

Where could he be?

The older boy walked near an abandoned construction pit, calling “Andy! Andy!” That’s when Erick heard a weak cry. His brother had slipped into the pit and was too small to climb out.

Erick jumped down into the pit to rescue him. Andy was dazed, crying and unable to walk. Gently, Erick picked him up and carried Andy to the nearest house. It was a close call. Andy survived, but the cold had almost killed him.

WHAT CAUSES HYPOTHERMIA?

Your body gets energy from the food and water you consume. As you process food and water, heat is released, keeping you warm inside. Usually you make more heat than you need. Your body sheds the excess heat through conduction, convection, evaporation, and radiation to stabilize your inner (core) temperature at 98.6 degrees Fahrenheit.

When you lose heat faster than you make it — Andy’s problem — your internal temperature begins to fall. Dehydration, the weather, hunger and exhaustion can all contribute to this body heat loss.

A drop in core temperature is called hypothermia. This dangerous condition happens when you’re exposed to the cold. Temperatures don’t have to drop below freezing, though. Hypothermia can occur on any windy, chilly day, especially if you’re wearing wet clothes.

WHAT ARE THE SIGNS OF HYPOTHERMIA?

A hypothermic person develops increasingly serious problems as his body continues to cool down. The signs of hypothermia are:

1. Confusion and trouble solving problems, plus mild shivering.
2. Stumbling and stronger shivering, pale skin, having trouble speaking and an “I-don’t-care” attitude.
3. Inability to walk and horrible shivers.
4. Slow heartbeat and breathing. Skin turns blue. Muscles grow rigid. Shivering stops for the same reason a motor dies — there’s no more fuel. Then, death.

HOW DO YOU TREAT HYPOTHERMIA?

MILD HYPOTHERMIA: Someone who can still shiver, walk and talk has mild hypothermia. You can warm that person back up to normal body temperature.

It’s simple. Here’s how:

Get the person into a building or tent and have them change into warm, dry clothes. Keep their head and neck insulated and get them into a dry sleeping bag or use blankets to gradually warm them up. If you can, get the person to a source of heat, such as a fire. Don’t apply direct heat like a heating pad. Be sure to help them change their socks if theirs are wet.

If they’re able to eat or drink, offer them food or warm drinks that have sugar or simple carbohydrates. Sweet fluids like hot cider or sweetened tea, as well as high-energy foods, such as candy, will help their body generate heat.

SEVERE HYPOTHERMIA: Severe hypothermia starts when someone can’t shiver anymore. Handle the person with care. No rough stuff. Take off their damp clothing. Bundle them in warm, dry layers and make sure there’s insulation underneath.

Wrap the person in something waterproof and windproof, such as a tent fly, and be careful that their head is protected from the cold, too. Monitor them closely and get emergency aid.

Watch others in the group to make sure they’re not developing symptoms too.

HOW DO YOU AVOID HYPOTHERMIA?

The best medicine is prevention. Here are some ways to prevent hypothermia:

1. Wear clothes designed to keep you warm in the cold.
2. Wear lots of thin layers of clothes instead of one heavy garment, such as a coat. If you get warm and sweaty, take off a layer to let the sweat dry. If you start feeling cold again, add layers of clothing.
3. Drink and eat a lot, so your body has plenty of “fuel” to generate heat.
4. In a group, watch out for hypothermia’s symptoms in others. They may not realize they are becoming hypothermic.

"What Are the Signs of Hypothermia and How Do You Treat It?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Whether you’re spelunking, digging through your pack at night or walking around camp after sundown, you need a good light. It’s one of the Scout Basic Essentials for outdoor adventures. A flashlight or headlamp can help keep you safe while exploring in the dark, serve as an emergency signal or provide a little illumination on a good book before bed.

Let’s shine some light on which headlamp or flashlight to consider before buying.

Sleek and simple, the MINI MAGLITE PRO LED ($30, maglite.com) fits perfectly in your hand, and — thanks to its aluminum exterior — if it slips, it can withstand a 3-foot drop. The flashlight offers 332 lumens and includes 2 AA batteries with a 2 1⁄2 -hour life. 4.1 oz. A cool accessory: safety wands ($9). They’re plastic cones that fit over your flashlight, instantly turning it into a lantern.

THE BASICS

Think about how you will use your light. Will you be taking it on a backpacking trek? Look for something lightweight. Do you want your hands free? Consider a headlamp or flashlight with a clip so you can attach it to the brim of your cap. Would you like different amounts of light? Shop for something with variable settings, including a red-light option, which is easier on everyone’s eyes at night.

If you want versatility, check out the COAST G32 ($30, coastportland.com). It has high and low settings, which you control from the rear button, and you can focus the beam by twisting the bezel at the front of the flashlight. The G32 produces 135 lumens on the low setting and 370 on high. Includes 2 AA batteries with a 4 1⁄2 -hour life on high, 17 hours on low. 5.6 oz.

DURABILITY

Hard plastic should be tough enough if you accidentally drop your light. But some are made with aluminum or super-tough polyethylene plastic. Stronger materials should protect your light from the hardest impacts.

When you’re buying a light, ask yourself: Over a few camping trips will it be able to hold up to wear and tear?

It’s also best to pick a model with a push-button switch because lights with sliding buttons can accidentally be turned on in your pack, killing the batteries or bulb — and leaving you with no light.

You can carry around the COLEMAN CLASSIC 300 LUMENS LED FLASHLIGHT ($35, coleman.com) or hang it from a thin rope or carabiner through its rear bail handle. The light features four settings: high, medium, low and strobe, with 300 lumens on the high setting. It includes 3 AAA batteries with a 3-hour life on high, 75 hours on low. 5.2 oz.

BRIGHTNESS

Think about what you’ll be using your light for. If you just want a light to read by in camp, consider a small flashlight or tiny lantern with LED lights. If you need it for hiking or mountain biking, a bright headlamp with a halogen or Xenon bulb might be a better choice.

Brightness is measured in lumens. What’s a lumen? A lumen is the total amount of light emitted from a flashlight or headlamp. In general, the more lumens, the brighter the light will be. Some handheld flashlights reach levels up to 12,000 lumens — strong enough to shine on something more than half a mile away. You won’t need anything that powerful; a light producing a couple hundred lumens provides more than enough illumination.

Always be aware of where you point your light. Shining a beam into someone’s eyes can disrupt their night vision for up to 30 minutes.

The handy and lightweight PRINCETON TEC ALLOY-X ($60, princetontec.com) is a penlight. Think of how a pen feels in your hand; a penlight is very similar. Even though it’s small, it offers 400 lumens of light. The penlight features three settings you can control either with the front bezel or rear push button. It includes one rechargeable battery with a 30-minute life on high, 28 hours on low. You can swap out the battery with 2 AAA batteries. 1.5 oz.

BATTERIES

Technology has advanced beyond disposable batteries. One popular alternative is rechargeable batteries, often using a USB cord. Other lights use solar cells or magnets. Most lights, though, still operate on AA or AAA batteries but can stay on for hours, even on the brightest setting.

At 250 lumens, the PETZL TIKKINA ($20, petzl.com) presents a great value. The brightness can rotate through three white lighting levels by pressing a large push button. The stretchy adjustable headband can be removed and washed. The light also can be angled down and set into place so you can watch where you’re going. Includes 3 AAA batteries with a 2-hour life on high, 120 hours on low. You can swap out the batteries with a rechargeable one. 2.8 oz.

PRICE

Your budget will determine what you can get. More expensive lights generally have more features, but a simple flashlight for a few dollars might be a great choice. Remember that cheap lights usually are not durable and won’t last long.

One of the coolest features of the LANDER KIVA ($50, lander.com) is its rechargeable USB system. Instead of using a separate cord, detach part of the headband to reveal an integrated charger you can plug straight into a USB-A port. The Kiva’s bulb produces a warm, yellowish beam that can be adjusted by holding down the push button to produce up to 150 lumens. The headband is made from recycled plastic harvested from the ocean. Includes a built-in battery with a 2-hour life on high, 40 hours on low. 2.3 oz.

SIZE AND WEIGHT

If you mainly keep the light in your pack for emergencies or for getting around camp at night, get a smaller light. Some of the newer, more expensive small lights can pack as much power as the older big ones.

The PETZL TIKKA ($30, petzl.com) offers quality and features similar to the Tikkina. One main difference is its phosphorescent reflector, which glows green after you shut off the headlamp. This helps you find the headlamp in the dark. I turned on the light for a few seconds, and it glowed for several minutes afterward. If you hold down the push button, the headlamp’s red-light setting turns on. Includes 3 AAA batteries with a 2-hour life on high, 120 hours on low. 3.3 oz.

For a headlamp that doesn’t take up much space, the BLACK DIAMOND FLARE ($30, blackdiamondequipment.com) is perfect. This headlamp emits 40 lumens and has white- and red-light settings. Instead of a push button, you turn it on by twisting its bezel, which will probably require both hands. You can also adjust it at different angles. Includes 2 lithium coin-cell batteries. 1 oz.

Tap the side of the BLACK DIAMOND SPOT 400 ($45, blackdiamondequipment.com) and switch from a full-power beam of 400 lumens to a setting at half the power. You can also use the two push buttons to switch between settings, as well as put the headlamp on its red-light setting. A nice feature is the Spot’s three-light battery-life indicator. It also comes in a rechargeable version ($65). Includes 3 AAA batteries with a 2 1⁄2-hour life on high, 200 hours on low. 2.5 oz.

"How to Buy a Great Headlamp or Flashlight" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Transformers: This cute flashlight transforms into a lantern with feet that act like a tripod.

Tripod Lamp: The bendable legs on this lamp can be twisted into any shape to hang or mount the light on most surfaces.

Tuque Lights: A wearable headlamp embedded in a beanie can keep your head warm while it lights up the area.

Magnetic Mounts This light is studded with magnets to mount it on metal surfaces.

Flashlight Gloves: Embedding LED lights in the fingertips can be super helpful for close work or tight areas.

Prehistoric Lights: Dinosaur headlamps are the coolest headlamps!

Bright Bugs: By twisting the insect-like legs in this small light, it can be placed wherever you need it.

Vintage Flashlight: This army-style flashlight can be slipped onto a belt for hands-free use.

"Take a Look at These 7 Wacky Flashlights" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You might have heard that you can lose at least half your body heat through your head.

Well, that’s a myth. It’s closer to about 10% if your head isn’t covered. Still, that heat loss can leave you chilly, so it’s important to keep your noggin insulated. Here are some options:

Stocking hat. These hats, often made of wool or fleece, will keep your head warm even if the hat becomes damp.

Balaclava. This type of stocking hat covers more than the top of your head; it also extends over your neck, leaving only a small portion of your face exposed.

Hood. A parka jacket often includes an attached hood that you can throw over your head to provide protection from the wind and heat loss. Some hoods feature a fur ruff around your face, designed to catch moisture from your breath so it doesn’t collect inside the hood.

Scarf. You can wrap a wool or fleece scarf around your neck for warmth and pull it up over your face to shield it from the wind.

Neck warmer. A fleece or knitted wool neck warmer, also called a gaiter, can stretch around your neck and lower head to insulate both

"How to Keep Your Head Warm in Cold Weather" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: There are so many mess kits out there. Help!
— Lide, Atlanta, Georgia

A: Shopping for mess kits can be overwhelming, which might leave you wondering, “Why can’t I borrow a plate and silverware from home?” Sure, you can do that — especially when car camping.

Mess kits show their value in durability and packability. Many nest inside themselves so they don’t take up much space in your backpack. Some fold down, like Hydaway’s Collapsible Bowls ($20, shop.myhydaway.com), giving you even more space.

For a basic kit, consider the BSA Stainless Steel Mess Kit ($20, available at the Scout Shop). It’s durable, lightweight and comes with a 1-liter pot, fry pan, 12-ounce cup and bowl.

For more versatility on backcountry trips, consider a kit with more pieces. The GSI Outdoors Bugaboo Backpacker ($85, gsioutdoors.com) offers a 2-liter pot with strainer lid, fry pan, two bowls and two 14-ounce cups with insulated sleeves and lids.

"Which Mess Kit Should I Buy?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Lightweight and handy, the Morakniv Scout 39 ($44, morakniv.se) is a fixed-blade knife designed for beginners. Its 3-inch recycled stainless-steel blade gets most carving jobs done smoothly, and it can be sheathed in an included leather case.

The Swedish birch wood handle makes the knife easy to grip, and the large finger-guard provides protection while you use it.

While the BSA doesn’t restrict the types or sizes of knives you can use, first check with your unit, camp or council, which might impose limits. Some states even have knife laws.

To earn the right to carry and use a knife, complete the requirements for the Totin’ Chip for Scouts BSA members. Cub Scouts can earn the Whittling Chip for using pocketknives.

"Stuff We Like: Morakniv Scout 39" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: I need a good sleeping pad. What do you suggest?
— Maxwell, Vestal, New York

A: You can get something simple, like the closed-cell Therm-A-Rest RidgeRest Classic Mattress Pad ($30, available at the Scout Shop), or go all out with sleeping bag-pad combo Zenbivy Motobed ($339, zenbivy.com), complete with a super-comfy 3-inch foam mattress.

There are plenty of choices for prices in between. Keep in mind that you want cushioning from the hard ground and insulation to help keep you warm. Look at the pad’s thickness and R-value. The higher those numbers are, the more padding and insulation you get.

For car camping, the Coleman Silver Springs Self-Inflating Camping Pad ($60, coleman.com) is a nice choice. Roll it out, flip open the valve and leave it alone. It fully inflates itself, providing 3 inches of cushioning and an R-value of 5. Anything 5 or above should work for camping in freezing temperatures.

For backpacking, the Gear Doctors ApolloAir Ultralight Inflatable Camping Pad ($115, geardoctors.com) packs as small as a water bottle, weighs 17 ounces and gives you a 5.2 R-value. It comes with a pump sack, saving your breath as it inflates to a 3.2-inch thickness.

"Suggestions for a Good Sleeping Pad?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Flying squirrels are amazing animals, but their name is misleading. They don’t flap or have wings. What they should be called are “gliding” squirrels.

They have skin folds called “patagia” between their arms and legs, attached at each wrist/ankle. When they jump from a tree, they spread their patagia and catch air like a sail, using gravity to glide. Their wide, long tails (almost as long as their body) act as a rudder to steer them. They are super maneuverable in the air and can turn 180 degrees mid-jump!

And they can glide far. The longest recorded glide is nearly 300 feet — that’s a football field — although most go only 20-30 feet at a time. Pads on their feet act like shock absorbers, cushioning the impact of landing.

Also unique to these tiny squirrels are their huge, dark eyes, which provide excellent night vision. Flying squirrels are active after dark, which explains why few people ever see one. We have a family of flying squirrels at our place here in north Florida. Sometimes we hear high-pitched chirping from up in a tree near our house. Only when we’re very lucky do we actually see one, and that’s with the help of a red-filtered spotlight (to keep from scaring them off). Their large eyes reflect the light, giving them away.

THE SPECIES

There are nearly 50 species of flying squirrels, and almost all are in the Northern Hemisphere. Most are found in Asia, with several in Europe and North America. There are three species in the United States: southern, northern and Humboldt’s flying squirrels.

The southern flying squirrel is found in the eastern U.S., from Minnesota to Maine in the North, to East Texas and Florida in the South. Their range also extends into southeastern Canada and parts of Mexico and Central America. They prefer living in forests in which the trees drop their leaves.

The northern flying squirrel’s range is mainly in the northernmost states, Canada and Alaska, extending southward along the Rockies and Appalachians in evergreen coniferous forests.

Humboldt’s flying squirrel is a western species from British Columbia to California. They look like their northern cousins, except slightly smaller and darker.

From nose to tail tip, flying squirrels in the U.S. are the tiniest of all our squirrels, from 10 inches for the southern to 13 for the northern.

HELPING THE FORESTS

Since jumping and gliding are their main ways of getting around, a healthy forest with plenty of close, tall trees is crucial to their survival. Such forests provide quality shelter and food, like nuts, seeds, lichen, fruit, bark, tree sap, insects and bird eggs.

In return, flying squirrels help the forests. They love to eat certain mushrooms, such as truffles. Many of these mushrooms have close connections with tree roots, increasing the trees’ uptake of water and nutrients. This makes flying squirrels important in the restoration of forests by helping to disperse not only plant seeds, but also the spores of these beneficial fungi.

Flying squirrels can store up to 15,000 nuts and other seeds per year.

FAMILY LIFE

Unlike some rodents, flying squirrels do not hibernate. Northern flying squirrels are a bit larger than the southern species and stay active year-round. Instead of hibernating during the winter, southern flying squirrels save energy by sleeping (a deep sleep called “torpor”) in large groups to share heat and stay warm, with females and males in separate groups.

Flying squirrels typically give birth to two or three kits (although they can have up to six), which stay with their mother for roughly four to six months. Family groups live together, and they often have several tree cavities or nests, one of which is only used as a latrine (to keep their sleeping areas nice and clean).

Flying squirrel nest boxes

Flying squirrels will use nest boxes on trees. These boxes should be installed in groups of three or four, one of which is used as a latrine. Find instructions for building them yourself at go.scoutlife.org/squirrelbox

"Catching Air with Flying Squirrels" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Ethan Fidhel woke to his friends crowded around him. He sat up to see what they were watching. It was wolves — three of them. The majestic beasts, two covered in striking white fur, had emerged from the woods, soon followed by a pair of 2-month-old wolf pups.

The wolves were hungry, but Ethan, a 16-year-old Eagle Scout, wasn’t worried. It was feeding time at the International Wolf Center in Ely, Minnesota. He and the rest of boys Troop 610 of Riverview, Florida, watched the wolves eat from behind a window in the center’s viewing room.

“Getting a front-row seat to the wolves was pretty cool,” says Eagle Scout Sam Herzeerg, 16.

Scouts don’t always have to venture into the wilderness to find an awesome animal encounter.

WAKING UP TO WOLVES

Last June, Troop 610 embarked on weeklong canoe treks at the BSA’s Northern Tier high-adventure base in northern Minnesota. One crew paddled 75 miles while the other traveled 100, cruising by waterfalls and Native American pictographs.

That’s an adventure in itself.

But before their treks, the troop took an overnight trip to the International Wolf Center. Located about 30 miles from Northern Tier, the center houses gray wolves, including arctic subspecies, that are born in captivity. Wolves are one of America’s most misunderstood animals, often portrayed as ferocious killers in fairy tales and movies. In reality, they’re generally afraid of humans.

That’s just one fact the guys learned. The center strives to educate visitors about wolves, so they also found out about pack dynamics, animal behavior and diets.

“A wolf can go a month without eating, and then feast on one animal,” Sam says.

After an educational talk, games and pizza, the guys set up their sleeping bags in the viewing room. At 4 a.m., the wolves started lurking around their 1 1⁄4-acre enclosure. The Scouts started waking up then and watched the wolves walk closer to the windows. They even got to hear them howl.

SLEEPING WITH SHARKS

Cub Scouts with Pack 625 of Woodstock, Georgia, slept soundly under a 340-foot tunnel-shaped tank filled with sharks and sawfish at Ripley’s Aquarium of the Smokies in Tennessee. They had been awake until midnight exploring the facility that houses 11,000 species of sea creatures, so they were pretty tired.

When they arrived at the aquarium last June, they took a tour and got to pet stingrays and jellyfish. (Don’t try this at home! Most jellyfish sting. The aquarium’s touch tank has special moon jellies that can’t sting humans.)

“It felt a little bit slimy,” says Judd Meyer, 6, a Lion Scout.

A diver on the tour quizzed the Cub Scouts about different animals. He also played Rock, Paper, Scissors with them while he was underwater in the tank.

The Cub Scouts enjoyed the aquarium’s massive indoor playground and went on a scavenger hunt, during which they read informative signs by the tanks and learned more about animals.

“I didn’t know a pufferfish could puff two to three times its size,” says Webelos Scout Robert Walker, 10.

As the activities wound down, the pack got ready for bed under the tunnel tank. Inside the tank swam sawfish, several species of sharks and a sea turtle named Sally. After a good night’s sleep, the Cub Scouts met in a classroom, where they got to touch starfish, lobsters and an iguana.

SCOUTING THE ZOO

It’s fun to do the activities that an animal facility offers, but it’s really fun to do Scouting activities there, too. For the past 37 years, Three Harbors Council has hosted Scouting the Zoo at the Milwaukee County Zoo in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. This past June, more than 600 Scouts camped on the zoo grounds across from animal exhibits.

The campout was filled with contests, like the councilwide Pinewood Derby championship. Cub Scouts also raced each other around the parking lot on Cubmobiles — one-seated wooden cars. Older Scouts took on skills challenges, like pioneering.

During free time, everyone explored the zoo. Evan Bondar, an 8-year-old Bear Scout with Pack 316 of Oak Creek, Wis., goes to the zoo often with his family, but sometimes things are different.

“They had a new seal there; the seals had given birth to a baby,” he says.

At the end of the day, everyone watched the movie Night at the Museum.

RIDING AT THE RANCH

For decades, Scouts have gone on exciting treks at Philmont Scout Ranch. This includes Cavalcade, a weeklong program on horseback through the rugged New Mexico wilderness.

If you love horses, the BSA high-adventure base isn’t the only place you can ride. Look for equestrian programs at council camps, like Camp Geronimo in Payson, Arizona, or D-Bar-A Scout Ranch in Metamora, Michigan. Both offer trail rides on their properties.

At D-Bar-A, you can add a ride to a weekend campout or wait for the ranch’s summertime equestrian camp. The weeklong camp teaches you how to ride and properly care for a horse. Then spend a night under the stars with your horse.

At Geronimo, Scouts can ride trails that take them around canyon rims and across creeks. Cub Scouts can go riding for the day at nearby R-C Scout Ranch.

Keep Learning

The BSA offers many opportunities to learn more about our natural world, specifically animals. In Scouts BSA, you can earn merit badges in Animal Science, Bird Study, Dog Care, Fish and Wildlife Management, and Horsemanship, to name a few.

"Scouts Get an Up-Close Look at Animals at These Fun Outings" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

After you have learned to tie a knot, practice it often. Carry a piece of rope in your pocket. When you have a few minutes to spare, pull it out and tie all the knots you know. Practice them enough that you can tie them quickly — even with your eyes closed. When you can do that, you will be ready to use these knots whenever they are needed.

SQUARE KNOT

The square knot has many uses, from securing bandages and packages to joining two ropes together. A square knot works best when pressed against something else and the ropes are of the same diameter. It should not be used to hold a heavy load.

Also called the joining knot, because it joins two ropes, it is the first knot you learn when you join Scouts BSA.

Tying a square knot is as easy as right over left, left over right. Here’s how:

• Hold an end of the rope in each hand.
• Pass the right end over and under the rope in your left hand.
• Pass the rope end now in your left hand over and under the one now in your right.
• Tighten the knot by pulling both running ends at the same time.

Learn more about the square knot.

TWO HALF HITCHES

A hitch is a knot that ties a rope to something. Two half hitches form a loop that can be adjusted to make it smaller or larger. You can use two half-hitches to tie a rope to a tree, ring or dock. Two half hitches are commonly used to tie guy lines onto a dining fly.

Here’s how to tie two half hitches:

• Pass the running end of the rope around the post or through the grommet.
• Bring the end over and around the standing part of the rope, then back through the loop that has formed. This makes a half-hitch.
• Continue taking the end around the standing part to tie another half-hitch (this time outside the loop). Be sure to go around the standing part in the same direction.
• Pull the knot snug and slide it against the pole or grommet.

Learn more about the two half hitches knot.

TAUT-LINE HITCH

To create an adjustable loop that stays in place, use the taut-line hitch. This is the knot to use for staking out the guy lines of your tent or dining fly because it can make a line tight, or taut.

Here’s how to tie the taut-line hitch:

• Pass the running end of the rope around the tent stake.
• Bring the end over and around the standing part, then back through the loop that has formed.
• Go around the standing part inside the loop again (this time closer to the tent stake).
• Going in the same direction, take the end around the standing part outside the loop to tie another half-hitch.
• Work any slack out the knot.
• Slide the hitch to tighten or loosen the line.

Learn more about the taut-line hitch.

SHEET BEND KNOT

The sheet bend is a very good knot for tying together two ropes. This knot won’t slip when ropes of the same or dissimilar material and size are tied together.

Here’s how to tie the sheet bend:

• Make a bight in the end of the thicker rope and hold it with one hand.
• Pass the running end of the other rope through the bight. Then take that end around and behind the bight.
• Bring the end across the front of the bight and tuck it under its own standing part so that both rope ends emerge on the same side of the knot.
• Tighten the knot by holding the bight and pulling the standing part of the smaller line.

When tying the knot, be sure that the working ends are on the same side; otherwise, the knot might be unreliable. If you tie a thick and thin rope together, use the thick rope to form the “stationary loop” and the thin rope as the “working line.”

Learn more about the sheet bend knot.

BOWLINE KNOT

The bowline knot forms a loop that will not slip. That’s just what you want for tying a rope around your waist or around someone requiring rescue. This knot is popular among mountaineers, climbers, sailors and others.

A bowline knot also works well for securing guy lines through the grommets on a tent or dining fly. It is also easy to untie.

You can learn how to tie a bowline knot around yourself, around a post, and in the free end of a rope. Here’s how:

• Make a small overhand loop in the standing part of a rope.
• Bring the rope end up through the loop, around and behind the standing part, and back down into the loop. The amount of rope remaining below the loop determines the size of the fixed loop in the finished bowline.
• Bring the working end back down through the overhand loop so it exits the knot toward the inside of the fixed loop.
• Tighten the knot by pulling the standing part of the rope away from the loop while holding the bight.

Learn more about the bowline knot.

TIMBER HITCH

The timber hitch is the perfect knot to use for dragging a log across the ground. It will stay secure as long as you are pulling on the rope. When you are done using the rope, the timber hitch is easy to loosen and remove from the log.

The timber hitch is also the knot that starts a diagonal lashing.

Here’s how to tie a timber hitch:

• Pass the running end of the rope around a log.
• Loop the end around the standing part of the rope, then twist the end around itself three or more times.
• Pull slack out of the rope to tighten the timber hitch against the log.

Learn more about the timber hitch.

CLOVE HITCH

The clove hitch is a versatile knot that is often used in Scouting activities. Clove comes from the word cleave, meaning “to hold fast.” The clove hitch is used to begin and end many lashings.

Here’s how to tie the clove hitch:

• Bring the running end of the rope over and under a pole.
• Take the end around a second time, crossing over the first wrap to form the shape of an X.
• Bring the rope end around a third time and tuck it under the X. The ends of the rope should come out between the legs of the X. If they come out to either side of the X, you don’t have a clove hitch.
• Pull the ends of the rope to tighten the hitch.

Learn more about the clove hitch.

"How to Tie the 7 Basic Scout Knots" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Picking a place to pitch a tent isn’t always simple. You could find a flat spot, but the site might be in a low-lying area and prone to flooding if it rains a lot.

To find a place you can safely and comfortably sleep and eat outdoors, consider these nine factors:

Environmental Impact

Use established campsites whenever you can, or camp on durable surfaces that won’t be damaged by you and your fellow Scouts when walking around. If you must move objects, like logs or rocks, return everything to its original spot before you leave.

Safety

Pitch your tent away from dead trees or trees with limbs that might fall in a storm. Avoid camping near lone trees, mountaintops, high ridges and other likely lightning targets.

Find a site away from low-lying places that could fill with water during a flash flood, such as valleys, canyons and banks of small, shallow rivers. Some signs of these areas are debris caught in underbrush or grass bent over in the same direction. Higher ground can be dangerous if you see signs of erosion.

Size

Find a place big enough for your patrol to set up its tents, and cook meals in separate areas. Also, make sure there is enough space to move around without tripping over tent stakes and guylines.

Comfort

In the summer, look for a shady site where breezes can help cool your tent and chase away mosquitoes. In the winter, find a site where trees and hillsides provide a natural windbreak. Regardless of the time of year, place your tent on the flattest spot possible.

Water

You’ll need plenty of water for drinking, cooking and cleaning. Public water supplies are the safest and can be found in most frontcountry campsites. Water from streams, rivers or lakes should be properly treated before use. In some dry places, you might need to carry all your water to camp.

Fire

Where fires are not allowed or where wood is scarce, plan on using a camp stove to heat water and cook food. Where fires are permitted, look for a campsite with an existing fire ring. Use firewood that is dead and down; never cut live trees.

Privacy

Respect the privacy of others by selecting campsites away from theirs. Trees, bushes and the shape of the terrain can screen your camp from trails and neighboring campsites. Keep noise down so you won’t disturb nearby campers, and respect quiet hours at public campgrounds and Scout camps.

Terrain

Make sure your site has good drainage, natural ground cover and enough sunlight for visibility.

Permission

Check ahead of time with public parks, forest and reserves. They can issue any permits you will need. Never camp on private property without permission.

"How to Choose a Safe and Comfortable Campsite" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You can sleep under the stars, slip into a bivvy sack or hang a tarp, but if you want a more substantial shelter, get a tent. What kind of tent should you get? Here are come variables and features to consider so you can choose the right tent for your trip.

WHEN CHOOSING A TENT FOR CAR CAMPING, HERE’S WHAT TO CONSIDER:

• CLIMATE. What kind of weather will you be camping in? Four-season tents are designed to withstand strong winds and loads of snow. If you’ll be in milder climates, a three-season tent will do the job.

• SPACE. How many people will share the tent? How much personal space do you all want? Tents can accommodate one, two, three or four sleepers — keep in mind that this label doesn’t consider backpacks or extra gear. It’s helpful to check out the tent at the store before you buy. Ask a salesperson if you can set it up so you can crawl inside and see how much room you’ll have.

Want some headroom? A dome tent might be best because of its design. Think about the ease of moving around, entering and exiting, but also the need to balance a tent’s living space against the following factors.

• WEIGHT. Look especially at a tent’s packed size, considering how much other gear you have to pack. Need something lightweight? Seek out tents specifically
designed for backpacking (see below).

• EASE OF SETUP. Larger tents usually require more time and effort to pitch and take down, which can feel tedious in nice weather and miserable in rain. Think about your tolerance for that versus your desire for more space.

• STABILITY. Tall tents with vertical walls are much more vulnerable to damage from strong winds. Those tents are best for calm weather and campgrounds protected from the wind. Low-profile models with angled walls and guylines are best for all weather. Want a tent that’s sturdy and simple to set up? Look at A-frames.

• RAIN. Some car-camping tents have a rainfly that doesn’t extend to the ground, which is fine for fair-weather camping. Get a full-coverage rainfly for camping in mixed weather; those tents usually have better stability in wind.

Want one tent for car camping and the occasional backpacking trip? The BSA BASECAMP 3-PERSON TENT ($200, scoutshop.org) hits a nice balance for both purposes at a good price. Designed for backpackers, it sports a hub pole system made of sturdy aluminum that’s similar to many pricier tents, good living space for three people with nearly 40 square feet, and a 41-inch peak height and two doors. For car camping, it will handle windy campsites, pitch and come down easily, and provide livable space, especially for two people. The weight and bulk are reasonable for backpacking. 7 lbs.

For campers who prefer a home away from home, the BIG AGNES BIG HOUSE 4 ($380, bigagnes.com) provides space to stand up (70-inch height) and spread out (57 square feet). Large mesh windows on both doors ventilate the tent, while solid panels zip over them for privacy and warmth. It features smart details like pockets that can also stow the unzipped doors out of the way. The simple pole architecture makes this freestanding tent easy to pitch and allows setting up the partial rainfly as a sun shelter. 11 lbs. 2 oz.

The COLEMAN SUNDOME 6-PERSON DOME TENT ($140, coleman.com) is a good inexpensive choice for fair-weather campers. Measuring 10 by 10 feet with a peak height of 6 feet, this tent could sleep six but offers welcome extra space for fewer occupants — it fits a queen-sized inflatable mattress. It’s easy to set up and doesn’t require a lot of campsite space like some larger tents do. A rainfly that covers the upper half of the tent — along with solid wall fabric on the tent body’s lower half and a waterproof, bathtub-style floor — provides protection against a rain shower, just in case. 16 lbs. 4 oz.

WHEN GETTING A TENT FOR BACKPACKING, YOU’LL WANT TO THINK ABOUT:

• WEIGHT. Pack weight matters and your tent is one of your heaviest pieces of gear, but it also has the most potential for reducing the total weight you have to carry. Many two-person tents weigh less than 4 pounds, and some are less than 2 pounds. Trade-offs for lower weight often include a higher price and less living space and durability.

• SPACE. The interior and vestibule space, peak height, number of doors, and details like vents and pockets all affect your experience. For example, two doors offer more convenience and ventilation than one.

• STABILITY. For backpacking (or car camping) in windy places, look for a more elaborate, sturdier pole architecture and a low-profile, aerodynamic shape.

• SETUP. Freestanding tents are usually easier and faster to pitch and dismantle than non-freestanding. That’s convenient, especially when setting up in the rain. But non-freestanding tents are often lighter and just as sturdy when pitched and staked properly. Tip: The best way to slash tent weight is to get a tent that pitches using trekking poles.

For lightweight backpacking without a heavyweight budget, the SIX MOON DESIGNS SKYSCAPE SCOUT solo tent ($145, sixmoondesigns.com) represents a super value. A hybrid single-wall design pitches using trekking poles (or two tent poles, sold separately) to create a sturdy A-frame. The mesh walls are covered by an integrated nylon rainfly that rolls up to create a bugproof shelter with an almost-unobstructed view of the stars. The 100-inch length, 23 square feet of floor space and 45-inch peak height make it very livable. Downside: It’s a bit bulky. 2 lbs. 8 oz.

If you place equal importance in a tent’s living space, weight and price, take a close look at the MARMOT TUNGSTEN ULTRALIGHT 2-PERSON TENT ($350, marmot.com). Although just ounces heavier than other models, it sports a spacious 31 square feet — more than virtually all competitors in its weight class. Tent poles bent at the corners and a short eyebrow pole over the top create vertical walls that expand your headroom for a 42-inch peak height. The sturdy pitch shrugs off strong wind, and the two doors and vestibules provide convenience while minimizing condensation. 3 lbs. 7 oz.

The REI QUARTER DOME SL 2 ($349, rei.com) justifies its popularity by striking a keen balance between low weight and livability. While it’s snug, the trapezoidal floor shape makes it feel roomier than its nearly 29 square feet, and the steep walls similarly enhance the headroom for its 38-inch peak height. The hubbed aluminum poles offer good stability in a quick, semi-freestanding pitch facilitated by color-coded attachments. Two doors and large vestibules improve ventilation and livability. 2 lbs. 8 oz.

"How to Buy the Right Tent for Your Next Adventure" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

It’s important to eat balanced meals, but sometimes it’s nice to satisfy your sweet tooth. Here are four tasty recipes to try.

Have a favorite dessert recipe? Send it to us!

OWASIPPE SOUP

Last summer at Owasippe Scout Reservation in Michigan, Matthew Hanson with Troop 41 of Glen Ellyn, Illinois, won a cooking contest with this recipe.

Ingredients

• One 20-ounce can crushed pineapple in juice
• One 21-oz. can cherry pie filling
• 1 box chocolate cake mix
• ¾ cup butter, melted

Directions

Spread the crushed pineapple and its juice into a 12-inch Dutch oven. Spread the cherry pie filling on top of the crushed pineapple. Evenly spread cake mix over both layers, and then pour melted butter on top. Cook in Dutch oven 40-45 minutes with about 15 coals on top and 10 on the bottom. Serve.

CAVE DOUGHNUTS

After exploring the Sullivan Cave in Indiana, Scouts with Troop 797 of Utica, Illinois, made this tasty treat.

Ingredients

• 1 gallon vegetable oil
• Pre-made biscuits
• Powdered sugar
• Cupcake icing in a can

Directions

Fill a pot two-thirds full with oil. Heat it until dough turns lightly brown when it’s placed in; this might take a couple of tests. Place balls of biscuit dough in the oil and let them cook for about 2 minutes, flipping after about 1 minute. Then remove the cooked dough with tongs and roll them in the powdered sugar. Inject the doughnuts with the icing. Serve

DUTCH OVEN BAKLAVA

Scouts with Troop 1911 of Missoula, Montana, cook this treat annually at summer camp.

Ingredients

• 24 sheets phyllo dough (a special thin dough, also in stores as filo and fillo)
• 1 cup butter, melted
• 1½ cups finely chopped pecans
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon

Lemon honey syrup:

• 1½ cups sugar
• ¾ cup water
• ½ teaspoon lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon honey

Directions

Prepare honey syrup by combining all ingredients and bringing to a boil for 1 minute. Set aside to cool.

Melt the butter. Mix pecans, sugar and cinnamon; set aside. Generously butter the bottom of a 12-inch Dutch oven. Lay 1 sheet of phyllo dough in the bottom of the Dutch oven. Butter the top, beginning at the edges and working toward the center. Repeat this step until you have placed eight sheets of phyllo dough, buttering each layer.

Sprinkle half of the nut mixture evenly over the phyllo dough.

Place eight more sheets of phyllo dough on top of nut mixture, buttering between each layer. Sprinkle the remaining nut mixture on top.

Repeat with eight more sheets of phyllo dough, buttering each layer. Drizzle any remaining butter on the top.

Cut into diamond-shaped pieces without cutting through the bottom layer of phyllo dough. Place the lid on the Dutch oven and bake at 350 degrees (eight coals on bottom, 16 on top) for 35-40 minutes or until lightly golden. Remove from heat and pour the honey syrup over the baklava. Serve.

S’MORES PANCAKES

The Scouts of Troop 129 of Anchorage, Alaska, make this breakfast meal the first morning of summer camp every year.

Ingredients (feeds 4)

• 2 cups pancake mix
• About 1½ cups water
• 1 sleeve of graham crackers, crushed
• 2 cups chocolate chips
• 1 container marshmallow fluff

Directions

Preheat a pan on medium-high heat and grease with butter. Combine the pancake mix with water, and then stir in the crushed graham crackers and chocolate chips. Place mixture on the pan in desired size and shape. Cook until golden brown on both sides.

Remove from the pan and top with marshmallow fluff and any additional toppings of your choosing. Serve.

Important Note: Please only upload photos of your dessert. Because of privacy rules, we can’t post any photos that show people’s faces. Always ask for your parent’s permission before uploading anything to a website.

"Savor These 4 Scout-Approved Sweet Treats" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: What is a good light source for inside a tent?
— Samuel, Acworth, Georgia

A: In a pinch, wrap your headlamp’s straps around a full, clear water bottle with the lamp facing toward the bottle. Turn on the headlamp, and the light should diffuse through the water.

For something more versatile and powerful, shop for small lanterns or dual-light flashlights, like the Coast G23 penlight ($30, coastportland.com). The G23 features two lights, including a LED side light.

Take advantage of any loops or mesh pockets inside your tent to set up your lighting. The Black Diamond Volt Lantern ($55, blackdiamondequipment.com) has a small hook so you can easily hang it. Another nice feature on the Volt: It can act as a battery to charge other devices.

The Klymit Everglow Light Tube ($20-$40, klymit.com) is an LED strip inside an inflatable tube. Using its loop, you can attach a carabiner to rig it inside your tent.

"Good Lights for Inside a Tent?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Thick cotton towels take up a lot of space in your backpack. Save that space for other gear by using a PackTowl.

A large version, which measures 36 by 59 inches and weighs less than 10 ounces, can be rolled up to about the size of an 8-ounce water bottle. It also comes with a storage pouch.

It might not be quite as comfortable to use as a cotton towel, but a PackTowl ($13-$55, packtowl.com) is just as absorbent. It’s made with a soft microfiber fabric that soaks in up to four times its weight in water. A couple of swipes and you should be dry. The fabric is also thin, so the towel dries quickly.

"Stuff We Like: PackTowl" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

• Find expert tips to help you get a good night’s sleep
• Picking the right sleeping pad, bag liner, pillow or cot
• How to minimize smelly sleeping bag odor

A good sleeping bag can make the difference between comfort and a long, miserable night. Follow these tips on choosing the right sleeping bag for your adventures.

KNOW YOUR BODY

If you are always wearing a T-shirt in camp when others are wearing a fleece — and you’re not cold — get a bag rated about 10 degrees lower than the lowest temperatures you encounter on trips. If you’re one
of the first people to put on an insulated jacket while hanging around camp, get a bag rated 20-25 degrees lower than the coldest nights you anticipate.

YOU CAN HARDLY BEAT THE PRICE of the COLEMAN SILVERTON 25 DEGREE MUMMY SLEEPING BAG ($69, coleman.com), but that’s just one great factor. Stuffed with synthetic insulation with offset quilt construction that eliminates cold spots — along with a draft tube, an adjustable hood and even a pillow pocket — this bag will keep many campers warm in temps around freezing and above. Sized for sleepers up to 6 feet, 2 inches, it has a spacious foot box and two-way zipper in case you need to ventilate from the top and bottom on mild nights. One downside: It’s heavy and bulky, better for car camping.

KNOW YOUR BUDGET

Prices vary depending on factors like type and quality of insulation, as well as materials used. For instance, a bag rated to zero degrees uses much more insulation than a 30-degree bag.

TEMPERATURE RATINGS

Sleeping bags usually are rated for the lowest temperature used. Many manufacturers use the EN or ISO rating system, a standardized measurement of warmth.

GEARING UP FOR YOUR FIRST CAMPING OR BACKPACKING TRIPS? The affordable and functional KELTY KIDS MISTRAL 30 ($50, kelty.com) is a great choice. The Cloudloft synthetic insulation will retain heat even if it gets damp, and the adjustable hood opening helps seal in heat. Plus, its weight and packability make it one of the most affordable bags that can cross over from car camping to backpacking.

SYNTHETIC VS. DOWN INSULATION

There are two main types of insulation: down and synthetic.

Down is generally warmer, lighter and more packable than synthetic insulation — especially higher-quality down (rated 800-fill and above). But it’s typically more expensive and loses its ability to keep you warm if it becomes wet. There is some water-resistant down.

Synthetic retains its ability to trap heat if the bag gets wet. These sleeping bags are usually heavier and less packable than down bags, but they are also less expensive. They’re the best choice for wet adventures.

THE DRAWBACK OF LOW-PRICED SYNTHETIC BAGS IS THEY CAN BE TOO HEAVY ND BULKY FOR BACKPACKING. Enter THE NORTH FACE ECO TRAIL SYNTHETIC 20 SLEEPING BAG ($129, thenorthface.com). At under 4 pounds (regular length) and packing down to 10-by-18 inches, this mummy bag is made for backpackers on a budget. Its EN limit rating of 20 degrees derives from recycled synthetic insulation — in fact, all materials that go into the bag are recycled, except for the zipper teeth. A wraparound J-zipper and extra width in the knees make it feel roomier than many mummy bags and expands options for ventilating. And it comes in unisex sizes ideal for Scouts nearing adulthood.

WEIGHT

This matters when you’re backpacking, but less so when car camping.

Lighter, higher-quality insulation costs more, but you can also reduce weight and bulk by not buying a 15-degree bag when you need only a 30-degree bag.

DON’T NEED EXTRA WARMTH OR THE WEIGHT AND COST THAT COME WITH IT? The ALPS MOUNTAINEERING AURA +35° ($100. alpsmountaineering.com), made for mild summer nights, weighs in under 3 pounds and packs down to 8 ½-by-16 ½ inches. The synthetic insulation is packaged within two-layer offset construction that eliminates cold spots and is buttressed by a zipper draft tube. Bonus: It comes with a compression stuff sack.

MUMMY VS. RECTANGULAR SHAPE

Mummy bags taper from head to foot for thermal efficiency (less space to heat up) and to minimize weight and bulk, but some can feel claustrophobic.

Rectangular bags are more spacious, but are generally heavier, bulkier and sometimes have cold spots.

Treat a bag like boots: Try it on before buying.

THE KELTY COSMIC DRIDOWN 20 ($160, kelty.com) isn’t the least expensive bag on this list, but it might be the best value. Built for three-season backpacking with an EN limit rating of 19 degrees, the Cosmic is generously stuffed with water-resistant 600-fill down, packs down to 8-by-15 ½ inches and weighs under 2 ½ pounds. The dual-slider zipper doesn’t snag, and the hood and draft collar keep warmth inside. It comes in three lengths, including a small for people up to 5 feet, 6 inches. Try finding a bag with all those features at this price.

CONSTRUCTION

Less expensive, yet lightweight, bags have sewn-through baffles, which can create cold spots along seams. Higher-quality horizontal baffles are typically warmer. Also look for a draft tube (along the zipper), collar (inside the hood) and no-snag zipper guard.

GEAR GUY’S ADVICE?

Get what you can afford. With an inexpensive bag, you can still get outdoors, which is what’s most important, right? If and when you have the dough for a nicer bag, it will make your wilderness adventures a little more luxurious.

CARING FOR YOUR BAG

Properly cared for, a sleeping bag can last 10-20 years. Body oils can compromise insulation, so to prolong your bag’s life, you should sleep in clean base layers. Air out your bag after each night of camping, but don’t leave it exposed to sunlight for long periods.

Post-trip, hang the bag to dry for a day or two, and then place it in a big storage sack or an old pillowcase. Be sure to store it in a dry place. If your bag gets really dirty or starts losing loft, follow the manufacturer instructions for washing it.

"How to Buy the Best Sleeping Bag" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: Do you have advice for packing a pillow when camping?
— Brad, Easton, Massachusetts

A: Try strapping your pillow around your sleeping bag using rope or elastic bands so it doesn’t take up space inside your pack. Or leave your pillow at home and just bring a pillowcase. When you get ready for bed, stuff the pillowcase with your extra clothes — instant pillow! It hardly takes up any room in your pack. A nylon stuff sack also works.

Camping pillows are generally smaller than a bed pillow, making them good options for fitting in a pack. You can find luxurious foam-filled ones that support and cradle your neck — or pillows that transform into microfleece blankets, like the SeatDreamzzz pillow/blanket combo ($50, seatdreamzzz.com).

If you do buy a pillow, get one that provides some support and doesn’t go flat when you lie down on it, like the Klymit Drift ($50, klymit.com), which is filled with shredded memory foam.

If you’re going backpacking, look at inflatable pillows. They’re inexpensive and fold down small when deflated. The Klymit Pillow X Large ($30, klymit.com) expands from 4-by-3 inches to 17-by-12 inches when inflated.

"Advice for Packing a Pillow When Camping?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: I always have trouble setting up my tent. Can you give me some tips?
— Leo, Albuquerque, New Mexico

A: Pitching a tent can get tricky when you’re trying to set up in the dark, in the rain or if you feel rushed. Remember, this is your shelter for the night — take the time to set it up right. Check the instructions and/or recruit a friend to help.

Get familiar with the tent before you go camping. Do the tent’s poles slide through sleeves? Or does the tent have clips that attach to the poles, like the Paria Outdoors Zion backpacking tent ($150-$180, pariaoutdoorproducts.com)?

Practice setting up your tent with all its parts ahead of time. Ask if you can practice pitching and taking down tents at a troop meeting — it might make a great activity, so everyone is prepared. Even if you have a simple shelter — like the Sansbug screen tent ($50-$90, sansbug.com) that pops open in seconds and easily fits under the separate rain fly ($40-$60) — practicing is helpful, especially when bending it back into shape at takedown.

When setting up your tent, remember to clear the area of any debris and look up to ensure you aren’t under any broken or rotten tree branches that could fall.

"Any Tips for Setting up a Tent?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Q: Freeze-dried meals might be a good choice for backpacking because they’re lightweight and provide a good amount of nutrients. Which ones would you buy?
— Duc, Sugar Land, Texas

A: As a matter of convenience, freeze-dried meals are great. But you’re paying for that convenience.

If your budget does allow, though, it doesn’t get much easier than one of these meals. Boil a cup of water, pour it into a bag, stir it up and you’re ready to eat. Going this route pays off if you want to quickly make a meal that would normally require a lot of prep work.

Some brands I’ve tried recently include Next Mile Meals ($9.50-$14, nextmilemeals.com), Good To-Go ($6.50-$15, goodto-go.com), RightOnTrek ($4-$11, rightontrek.com) and Proper Good ($3-$7, eatpropergood.com). Next Mile Meals are freeze-dried, Good To-Go and RightOnTrek use air-drying, and Proper Good is premade. There’s a difference in how each is produced.

Freeze-drying, often using a vacuum system, saps almost all the water from food, allowing for longer shelf life and quicker rehydration. Air-drying dehydrates the food using hot air; this method is cheaper, so these meals might be cheaper. Proper Good’s premade soups just needed to be heated up. All can provide nutrients you need, and some are packed with protein, which help fuel you with energy for the trail.

Of the four I tested, it was hit or miss taste-wise. But I found some from each I liked, namely Good To-Go’s Cuban rice bowl, Next Mile Meals’ Italian beef marinara, RightOnTrek’s chicken alfredo pasta and Proper Good’s red pepper and meatball soup.

"Are Freeze-Dried Meals Good for Backpacking?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

The Owala FreeSip water bottle ($22-$30, owalalife.com) gives you the option to drink from a straw or a spout. The large mouth has two openings you can sip from while holding the bottle upright or swig from while tipping it up.

The stainless-steel bottle comes in 19-, 24- and 32-ounce versions in several different colors. It’s also available in a 25-oz. plastic version ($15). The bottle’s triple-layer insulation keeps liquids cold. A nice feature is the flip-top lid: Press a button and it pops open. It seals tightly when you press the lid back down.

"Stuff We Like: Owala FreeSip" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Wearing a bicycle helmet cuts the chance of seriously hurting your head if you’re in a bike accident. But that same helmet might not provide good protection if you wear it while rock climbing or skating. Here’s how to pick a safe and comfortable helmet.

THE PRO-TEC CLASSIC ($55) and CLASSIC JUNIOR ($65, two sizes, protecbrand.com) helmets, certified for skateboarding and cycling, maximize protection for rippers with a high-density shell, inner foam liner and 11 vents. The Junior’s magnetic buckle won’t pinch your neck, and the dual-direction ratcheting adjustment system gives you a customized fit without having to change helmet liners.

CERTIFICATION

Get a helmet designed specifically for your sport. Don’t be distracted by the helmet’s style. What’s more important is if the helmet meets the proper protection standards. Just check for the sticker inside the helmet with the certification on it before buying.

THE PRO-TEC CLASSIC CERTIFIED SNOW STEALTH ($70, protecbrand.com) helmet is certified for skating, cycling and snow activities. It adds removable ear pads, a heat-sealed liner and a goggles clip, enabling three-sport use in all seasons.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Multi-Directional Impact Protection System (MIPS) helmets come in different versions for different sports. The most common design uses a liner inside the helmet that offers more protection in a crash, potentially reducing brain trauma.

With a bicycling helmet, consider what and how you ride. Helmets for the road and cross-country mountain biking prioritize low weight and ventilation; trail and enduro models protect the back of your head; and downhill helmets add a chin bar.

Integrating high-impact-absorbing EPS foam with dual-density foam plus fabric liners, the TRIPLE EIGHT CERTIFIED SWEATSAVER ($70, triple8.com) helmet carries certification for both cycling and skateboarding, saving multi-sporters money. Triple Eight donates a portion of sales to The Skatepark Project for the creation of public skate parks.

When buying any helmet, take a look at the helmet’s design. The safest helmets are those that are rounded without any snag points sticking out that could hurt you during a fall.

Vents are good for keeping your head cool, but more vents equal less foam and, possibly, less protection. So pick a helmet with no more vents than you think you’ll need.

Finally, if you’ll be cycling or skating around traffic, choose a brightly colored helmet so you’ll be easier for drivers to see.

The ventilated LAZER GEKKO MIPS ($65, azersport.us) helmet uses an automatic fit system that enables proper fitting to your head quickly and safely without having to move a dial — and has the protection of MIPS.

THE PROPER FIT

You should have a snug fit, but not so tight that it’s too uncomfortable.

Some helmets come with removable foam inserts to customize a snug fit. With the helmet level on your head, use your fingers to measure the space between your eyebrows and the helmet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3u51W0LN2U?rel=0

You shouldn’t have any more than two fingers of space above your eyebrows. You don’t want it flopping down over your eyes either.

STRAP IS KEY

Always buckle your helmet. It only takes a second to strap it on. And if you fall and it’s not strapped, the helmet isn’t going to stay on and won’t do any good. Plus, you’re not looking any cooler wearing it without the strap.

The FOX RACING YOUTH MAINFRAME HELMET ($80, foxracing.com) combines extended back-of-the-head coverage; cool ventilation; a lightweight fit system; and a removable, moisture-wicking liner with MIPS protection. It’s also available in adult sizes.

HOW MUCH IT’LL COST

These days, some high-end helmets can cost up to several hundred dollars, but don’t worry: you can get a safe cool-looking one for much less.

For trail and bike park riders who go big and fast, the BELL SUPER 3R MIPS ($235, bellhelmets.com) features a removable chin bar, easily changing over between a half-lid for trail mountain biking and a full-face helmet. In full-face mode, big, soft pads cushion your face, while the half-lid setup has a close, ventilated fit.

TRY BEFORE YOU BUY

Whether you go to a bike or skate shop or a big superstore, it’s important that you try on a bunch of different helmets to find the one that fits your head best. Salespeople in small specialty shops can help you find the optimum fit; in big stores you’re usually on your own.

Either way, don’t just pick one that looks cool. If you’re going to wear a helmet, you might as well have the safest one.

For any climbing, the BLACK DIAMOND VISION MIPS ($140, blackdiamondequipment.com) delivers all-day comfort, thanks to a design that’s highly adjustable. The EPS foam puck on the top of the head protects from falling rocks while the EPP foam shell surrounding it provides side impact protection — it’s the best of both worlds. The outer shell is ABS, a more durable type of plastic shell than thin, easy-to-dent polycarbonate.

LEARN MORE

Visit the Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute’s Web site at Helmets.org to find out everything there is to know about helmet safety.

There are good reasons the NRS HAVOC LIVERY HELMET ($53, nrs.com) ranks among the most popular with whitewater kayakers and rafters. For starters, it’s made from tough ABS plastic, known to withstand a lot of hard use. The glued-in, closed-cell EVA foam liner and plush-fit pads on the front and back deliver comfort. An adjustable system makes it one of the few one-size-fits-all whitewater buckets, making it a useful spare helmet that anyone you invite can wear. The price helps a lot, too.

"How to Buy a Safe and Comfortable Helmet" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.