Columbia’s Hikebound rain jacket

Rain doesn’t have to ruin your fun. A good rain jacket will help keep you dry and comfortable, whether you’re caught in a sprinkle or hiking for days in a steady rain.

Get a jacket that’s made for outdoor sports, meaning it’s both waterproof and breathable. Wearing a rain jacket that’s not breathable is a little like wearing a trash bag: You’ll get wet from your sweat on the inside.

You’ll also want one that’s packable.

Charlie Berg

Look for jackets tough enough to handle rubbing against your backpack. If you like to travel fast and light, abrasion resistance isn’t as important as packability and weight.

THE LOW DOWN ON RAIN JACKETS

When experts talk about rain jackets, they usually categorize them as either hard shells or soft shells.

Hard shells are what most people think of when they talk about outdoor rain jackets. These are lightweight hooded jackets designed to keep out wind and rain. Standard rain slickers are considered hard shells, too, but we’re focusing on rain jackets that are also breathable, meaning they wick sweat away from your body. If you’re wearing something that doesn’t breathe, you’re going to sweat and get all the rest of your insulation wet because none of the moisture is going to be able to leave.

Soft shells are woven jackets that are wind- and water-resistant and totally breathable. Many soft shells use a durable water-repellent (a.k.a. DWR) coating on the jacket’s surface to make it shed rain.

ONE RAIN JACKET FOR ALL?

If you can afford only one rain jacket, you should buy a simple lightweight hard shell. Hard shells are necessary equipment for heavy wind and wet weather because a soft shell jacket simply won’t give you the needed protection. That said, if you can afford both, a soft shell jacket is ideal for about 80 percent of your outdoor activities, and you can keep a lightweight, waterproof hard shell in your backpack for the nasty weather.

Outdoor Research’s Packable Stratoburst Stretch Rain Jacket ($165, outdoorresearch.com) is great for hiking and more. It’s light and packable, with large pit zips for venting on hot days. The fabric is waterproof and very breathable, and the jacket is stretchy so you can move around freely. Some rain jackets are crinkly and loud; this one is not.

HARD VS. SOFT SHELL

Soft shells are generally more supple and more breathable but less windproof and less waterproof. Hard shells typically don’t fit quite as nice, but they’re usually more waterproof, more windproof and lighter weight.

WATERPROOF/BREATHABLE FABRICS

These are marketing words you’ll hear used to describe rain jackets. Usually these jackets are built with two to three layers of material, including a special membrane layer that keeps weather out while letting your sweat escape.

A common misconception when people are looking for a rain jacket is they think they need to see the words 100 percent waterproof on the tag. Depending on your activity, you might want a decent amount of waterproofness, but don’t get hung up on it.

There are a wide variety of waterproof/breathable materials on the market. Some are more heavily advertised than others, but often the generic or “house brand” waterproof/breathable fabrics offered by manufacturers will work just as well for you. Gore-Tex, for example, is a fine product, but it’s only one of many waterproof/breathable fabrics.

Look for a rain jacket that is free of PFAS (or “forever chemicals”), commonly used in waterproof coatings.

With pit zips, spacious mesh pockets and two hood adjustments, Marmot’s Precip Eco Jacket ($120, marmot.com) is the original superb-value outdoor rain jacket. It has a little bit of stretch, and while it feels a little stickier on the skin than some, it’s a tried-and-true option that will last and perform.

MAKE SURE YOUR RAIN JACKET FITS

You want a rain jacket to be decently trim. You don’t want it to be bulking out and getting in the way of your mobility. To make sure it fits right, raise your arms over your head and make sure the bottom of the jacket doesn’t come up above your waist.

If you want the most versatility from your hard-shell rain jacket, size up — not down — so you can layer underneath it when the weather gets cooler.

Soft shells should be more form fitting. If you’ll be wearing a backpack waist belt or climbing harness, consider how the jacket may interfere with that.

THE HOOD

A really well-designed hood that lets you see well is something a lot of people probably don’t think about a lot, but it’s really important because with poorly designed hoods, you can barely do anything. Every time you turn your head you’re looking into the side of the hood.

Look for a hood that has good coverage, can fit over a climbing helmet (if you’ll be climbing) and is able to cinch down tight to your face so it doesn’t obstruct your view.

Save some money with Columbia’s Hikebound Rain Jacket ($80, columbia.com). The mesh-lined waterproof breathable polyester jacket comes in multiple sizes. It’s a sturdy two-layer seam-sealed shell designed for hiking. The zippered hand and chest pockets stash gear, and the hem, cuff and hood are all adjustable.

TAPED SEAMS

As rain jackets increase in price, you move from a basic coated fabric to one with taped seams.

“Taped seams are crucial for keeping you protected from rain in a downpour,” Berg says.

That said, keep in mind it doesn’t matter how much you spend, in a downpour even the most expensive rain jackets will probably eventually wet-out.

h2>PIT ZIPS

Even though they may claim breathability, the truth is that any rain jacket is going to be a little clammy. So look for one with pit zips (zippers that open the sides of the jacket under your arms) because they help with breathability, especially when you’re being active.

BELLS AND WHISTLES

MP3 pockets, hydration bladders, etc. You’ll see tricked-out jackets in the stores with these things, but it’s best to keep it simple. The ideal jacket is really lightweight and just has a well-designed hood, two chest pockets and fully sealed seams.

Columbia’s Inner Limits III ($100, columbia.com) has a mesh liner that makes this jacket a little heavier and bulkier than others. But it has taped seams and uses Columbia’s Omnitech waterproofing.

TRY BEFORE YOU BUY

You can find good rain jackets online, but it’s always best to buy in person because you can try it on.

COST

In general, the more you spend on a jacket, the more bells and whistles you’ll get. Also, higher-end waterproof rain jackets tend to be more breathable.

“Invest a little more, and you’ll get a jacket with pit zips for clearing sweat, better fabrics and an adjustable hood with a brim so you can see well while you’re moving,” Berg says. “Above $150, rain jackets may have some stretch for comfort, and the fabrics will usually be more breathable.”

If you happen to fit into kids’ sizes rather than adult jackets, you can save lots of cash on a rain jacket while still getting the same waterproof/windproof performance.

KEEPING YOUR RAIN JACKET CLEAN

Consider using a product like Nikwax to wash and re-waterproof your jacket, and follow the jacket manufacturer’s instructions regarding cleaning.

"How To Buy a Good Rain Jacket for Outdoor Activities" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Your backpack and boots are the two pieces of gear you’ll use the most on the trail.

“A pack that fits poorly can make or break your trip,” says Ryan Wichelns, editor-in-chief of Trails Magazine, a lifelong backpacker and former Scout from Stillwater, New York.

“Buy one that fits your body and your gear.”

When shopping for a backpacking pack, the most important thing is to try some packs to see what works, he says. A pack might look cool online but be a bad fit. Everybody is shaped differently. To get the right size, measure your torso length and hip size.

Backpacking experts Ryan Wichelns and Jenn Cadorette.

THE RIGHT FIT

An expert at your local outdoor shop can help you find the best backpack. Some outdoor shops also sell used packs. If you can find one in good shape that fits, a used pack can be a great way to save a few bucks.

Put some weight in a pack and walk around the store for a few minutes. You’ll start to notice what fits your back, shoulders and hips best. Many backpacks have adjustable torso length. That is great for people who are still growing.

The weight of a loaded pack should rest on your hips, not pull on your shoulders. Once your pack is on, watch out. Your hip belt can slide down and compress your butt, back and leg muscles, which keeps them from working right.

“Hip muscles come up higher than you think,” says Jenn Cadorette, a physical therapist and thru-hiker. “Put your hands on your waist and find your hip bones. Your backpack hip belt should stay on those bones.”

PACKING YOUR BACKPACK

How you pack your backpack is as critical as your pack’s fit.

“Pack your heaviest gear close to your back,” Cadorette says. “That will help you stay balanced when you’re hiking.”

Packs are measured in liters. For backpacking, you’ll likely need a pack that’s 35 liters or larger. Buy a pack that’s big enough to carry what you need, but not one that’s too big, or you’ll carry extra pack weight and be tempted to overload.

A versatile pack will have lash points for strapping gear on the outside, though you first want to focus on the inside. For winter backpacking, you’ll need more space for a warmer sleeping bag, extra food and clothing. Less weight is easier and more fun to walk with, but every backpacker must decide what non essential to bring and what to leave at home.

Check Scout Life’s outdoor essential checklists at go.scoutlife.org/essentials

Our favorite backpacks have features that make hiking easier. Hip belt pockets let you grab snacks, your phone and sunscreen without stopping. If your pack doesn’t come with one, you can get one that slides over your belt.

A good pack also lets you drink without taking off the pack, whether it’s a built-in space for a hydration reservoir or easy-to-reach place for a water bottle. The pack should have at least one pocket to organize gear you want to access fast, like water treatment gear, pocketknife and flashlight.

Another nice feature is a lid — or a “brain,” as Wichelns calls it — that can fully unclip so you can easily take your essentials with you into your tent instead of bringing in the whole pack.

Once you’re home, empty and dry your pack. Spot wash the pack with dishwashing soap and a sponge. Maintain your gear, and it’ll last longer.

THE BEST BACKPACKS

Granite Gear Perimeter 50

The Granite Gear Perimeter 50 ($250, granitegear.com) is a simple minimalist pack with loads of great features. The adjustable torso and hip belt fit many people and make the pack one you can grow into. It comes in regular and long torso lengths. The padded, contoured hip belt has big pockets for your gear. Granite Gear’s suspension system is comfy, with articulated, adjustable shoulder straps. The rolltop pack has two stuff pockets on the front and a zippered lid. A bottom flap holds your sleeping pad or tent. A zippered pocket in the flap stores your wet rainfly away from your other gear. Everything else goes in the main compartment. Once your pack is loaded, compression straps cinch it down so you can use this pack comfortably for weekend hikes or bigger projects, like a thru-hike. The Perimeter will last a long time; it’s made from Robic high-tenacity nylon, which is 50% stronger than regular nylon.

Forclaz MT900 UL 50+50L

At 2.9 lbs. and 60 liters, the ultra-versatile Forclaz MT900 UL 50+10L ($189, decathlon.com) is one of the most affordable large-capacity packs. With seven pockets, a hydration reservoir sleeve and clips for trekking poles, it’s ready for any trip. The MT900 lets you access gear through the top or the full side-zip. It’s a great pack for sweaty hikers because a mesh hammock lifts it off your back for airflow, and the shoulder straps and hip belt are highly perforated and covered in mesh for maximum airflow. Side cinching cords take some time to get used to, but ample lashing points and an included rain cover made this pack a top choice. So does the 10-year warranty.

REI Kid’s Tarn

You might find a kid’s pack fits you better than a pack sized for adults. The REI Kid’s Tarn ($119-$165, rei.com) has the quality and features of an adult pack but in sizes made for kids. The 40-liter version, weighing 2 lbs., 10 ounces, is for torsos down to 12 inches. It has enough internal space to suit smaller kids. For bigger kids and longer trips, the 65-liter Tarn, at 3 lbs., 14 oz., has a traditional design with a zippered sleeping bag compartment and top access. The 65-liter pack has dual oversized water bottle pockets, a hydration sleeve and a vented front shove pocket. Its removable lid has backpack straps, so you can leave your big pack behind for short hikes. This pack’s hip belt has a stiffener and thick foam to take the bite out of carrying a heavy load. The harness uses channeled foam for airflow to keep you from getting too sweaty.

Kelty Asher 55

The Kelty Asher 55 ($139, kelty.com), at 3 lbs., 2 oz., has many of the same features as more expensive packs: an adjustable torso, big water bottle pockets, separate sleeping bag access and front-of-the-pack places for strapping overflow gear, but it doesn’t have a removable lid or hip belt pockets. Still, it’s great if you’re on a tight budget. The broad hip belt and airflow back also make this a great first pack.

Nomad RT 50

With a roll-top design, the Nomad RT 50 ($230, alpsmountaineering.com) allows you to compress or expand your pack’s main compartment volume, increasing your overall space to 60 liters or pressing it down to 40 liters. At nearly 5 lbs., the pack is covered in straps and attachment points for fastening gear. This pack comes in 38- and 75-liter versions, too. ALPS Mountaineering offers gear discounts exclusive to Scouts through its Hiker Direct program. For the RT 50 pack, Scouts can get up to 40% off through the program.

BSA Mountaineer 70L backpack

If you have a long gear checklist, the BSA Mountaineer 70L backpack ($120, scoutshop.org) has room to fit all your gear. This 4 lb., 70-liter pack features designated spaces for your sleeping bag, hydration bladder and gear you need to access quickly. You’ll have plenty of storage with its outside mesh pockets, easy-access side pockets and hip belt pockets — plus there’s a place to attach your trekking poles. The pack is designed to feel lighter with its reinforced lumbar support system and adjustable straps.

"Pick the Best Backpack With These Expert Buying Tips" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

The underwater world is magical. With snorkel or scuba gear, you can observe fish, coral and other aquatic life in this wondrous environment.

Snorkeling offers the most affordable and accessible way to explore, and with some basic gear, anyone can do it. California-based scuba instructor Darrick Cusick has dived in almost every state. He says you can get started in snorkeling for less than $150.

“Save your allowance, and make sure you enjoy the activity before you invest,” says Cusick, a master scuba diver trainer.

Scuba diving requires certification and costly specialized gear, most of which you’ll want to rent until you’ve stopped growing.

Review the Scuba BSA program, which details the safety and training you’ll need to do this advanced aquatic activity. You can try it at some council camps or Sea Base, the BSA high-adventure base in Florida. Your unit can dive independently, but only under the supervision of adults with a divemaster or higher rating.

SNORKELING GEAR

A good mask lets you see underwater. Use a traditional mask, not a full-face version. To test if a mask fits, press it against your face without using the head strap and breathe in through your nose. The mask should suction to your face. No air should seep in around the seal once it’s suctioned on. If air comes in, water will, too. Cusick recommends the CRESSI FRAMELESS ZS1 or Z1 (both $60, cressiusa.com), depending on your face size.

Next, you need a snorkel, which is a tube with a mouthpiece, to help you breathe when your face is in the water. The mouthpiece goes in your mouth, and the tube clips into a holder attached to your mask so the tube’s end can stick out of the water.

Dry snorkels are the most user-friendly, because they don’t let water in — even if a wave washes over your head or you dive underwater. Try the BLUE REEF CORTES DRY SNORKEL ($15, scuba.com).

Fins propel you through the water. Cusick says to keep it simple with adjustable strap fins that are light, 18 inches or less, and easy to move. One good option is the TUSA SNORKELING FIN ($40, tusa.com).

In tropical waters, a bathing suit and T-shirt or rash guard to prevent sunburn are all you need.

For colder water, use a warm-when-wet insulating wetsuit. The thicker the wetsuit, the warmer it is. When the water measures between 60° and 75°F, use a 4- to 6-millimeter wetsuit. For 45- to 60-degree water, choose a 7mm wetsuit. In water colder than that, you’ll need a dry suit and other cold water-specific gear.

Full wetsuits are ankle length with full arms. “Shorties” — great for warmer water — have short sleeves and legs. Cusick recommends HENDERSON WETSUITS, which are available in kids’ and adult sizes (starting at $73, depending on style and size, hendersonusa.com).

SCUBA DIVING GEAR

For scuba diving, you’ll need a buoyancy compensator device (BCD) and air tanks. You’ll also need a regulator, which is the mouthpiece you breathe through underwater. Most new divers rent these on location as well as other equipment. And, most important, you’ll have to take an open-water diver certification course, which is part of the Scuba Diving merit badge.

"How to Buy Snorkeling Gear for an Underwater Adventure" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Sickness-causing microorganisms in the water, called “pathogens,” are top reasons hikers bail on a big trip, says Chris Casserly with Outdoor Gear Exchange, an outdoor sports store in Burlington, Vermont. Casserly has conquered New Hampshire’s 4,000-foot peaks in both summer and winter, and has been camping and backpacking in the Northeast for the last 15 years.

“Take water treatment seriously,” Casserly says. “Getting sick on the trails is no fun.”

Getting diarrhea on the trail is one thing, but some illnesses can linger for months. Most nasty pathogens come from animal poop in the water.

In North America, these nasties include parasites, protozoa and bacteria, like giardia, cryptosporidium, e-coli and salmonella.

HOW TO TREAT WATER

Treat all your water, including melted snow. Don’t assume water is clean, even if it looks clear. Choose your water source carefully. Running water is the best, and a murky puddle is the worst, Casserly says.

Fill your bottle from the middle of the source. Skim the surface with your hand to remove insects, leaves and other floaters. Keep particles down by not disturbing the water as you’re filling up. A rainstorm also stirs up particles in a water source, so avoid gathering water right after a storm.

Runoff is often the dirtiest water. If the water you plan to filter and drink isn’t clear, use a prefilter. Prefilters are available for many water filters.

Boiling water also kills waterborne bad guys. Boil water for one minute at sea level, or for three minutes when you’re above 6,500 feet.

Use hand sanitizer after you treat your water. If you get untreated water on your hands, your hands are now dirty. Keep track of dirty and clean bottles, too. If you fill a dirty water bottle with clean water, the water is dirty and needs to be treated again.

Take good care of your gear. Don’t drop your filter. The impact can crack the filter fibers, preventing water flow.

“Before you hit the trail, test your filter on a bottle filled from your kitchen tap,” Casserly says. “If it’s not flowing or has major leaks, troubleshoot the issue with the manufacturer’s help, or bring the filter to your local shop. If your filter is leaking from the side or if the water isn’t flowing, it might be time to replace your filter cartridge.”

Clean and dry your water treatment gear after you get home from a trip. Most filters come with a backflush option. Backflush your filter with clean water and dry it before you store it.

CHEMICAL TREATMENT

The cheapest and easiest way to kill pathogens in your water is a chemical treatment. You can use iodine or chlorine dioxide, which come in tablets or a liquid added directly to your bottle. Effective brands are POTABLE AQUA ($10 for 50 tablets, pharmacalway.com) or AQUAMIRA ($15 for a 1 oz. bottle, aquamira.com).

Chemical treatments are compact, light and can work in as little as 30 minutes. However, they don’t filter matter from your water, so if your water is cloudy, you should prefilter it.

SQUEEZE FILTERS

Casserly’s favorite water treatment is a squeeze filter like the SAWYER SQUEEZE filtration system ($29, sawyer.com), which screws onto the included flasks or a plastic water bottle. Squeeze filters are ideal for individual use. They’re light and inexpensive, and you can drink the water immediately through the filter.

Another top choice is LIFESTRAW’S PEAK SERIES COLLAPSIBLE SQUEEZE 650 ML BOTTLE WITH FILTER ($38, lifestraw.com), which has a sturdy flask with a filter inside, capable of lasting up to 2,000 liters.

STRAW FILTERS

There’s also the LIFESTRAW PEAK SERIES STRAW ($25, lifestraw.com). Not only does it allow you to drink from the source, but you can also attach it at the end of a hydration hose, screw it onto a standard narrow mouth plastic water bottle or connect it to a gravity filter. But you can’t use it at the water source to easily fill other bottles. Still, it’s a good, light (2.3 oz.) option when you’re backpacking trails with a lot of water along the way.

GRAVITY FILTERS

To filter water for big groups, get a gravity filter. PLATYPUS GRAVITYWORKS ($126 for the 2-liter version, $150 for 6 liters, platy.com) is a hanging system with two bags connected by a hose with an inline filter. Using gravity, water flows from the dirty water bag to the clean, filtered one.

Gravity systems clean large amounts of water and some can filter around 1,500 liters before the filter needs to be replaced.

PUMP FILTERS

Pump filters are best for filtering cloudy water. Most have a prefilter to screen out sediment, which can clog a squeeze filter quickly. Pumps are pricey and heavier, but they’re reliable. Most have a carbon filter that makes water taste better, like the MSR MINIWORKS EX MICROFILTER ($120, msrgear.com) and the KATADYN VARIO FILTER ($120, katadyngroup.com).

If you pack a pump, bring a backup chemical treatment just in case.

UV PURIFIERS

To eliminate viruses in the water, you’ll need a purifier, not just a filter. Viruses are smaller than bacteria, and a filter can’t trap them. Chemical treatments can kill viruses, and so does ultraviolet light, which KATADYN’S STERIPEN ULTRA UV WATER PURIFIER ($130, katadyngroup.com) uses.

With an ultraviolet light purifier, place the tip of the purifier in a liter of water and stir for about 90 seconds. Ultraviolet purification works best in sediment-free water, but its advantage comes in cold weather. In winter, pumps and filters can freeze, but an ultraviolet light purifier won’t.

WATER TREATMENT GLOSSARY

WATER FILTERS use microscopic pores to strain out nasty stuff like bacteria from water sources. For most backcountry trips in the U.S., you don’t need more than a filter.

PRE-FILTERS are used to remove large, visible particles before you start the filtering process — particularly important in cloudy water.

WATER PURIFIERS eliminate bacteria, too, but also use chemicals or ultraviolet light to kill viruses, which are too tiny for most filters to remove. Purifiers become more necessary in the deep backcountry or while traveling to some other countries.

"How to Treat Your Water to Stay Healthy in the Backcountry" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Hats are among the most underappreciated pieces of gear. They can let people know if you’re a fan of a certain sports team, what brands you like or that you’re a Scout. More practically, they can protect you from the sun, cold, rain and bugs (and bad hair days).

Hats keep your hair out of your eyes, absorb sweat and provide shade when there is none. A winter hat can help keep you warm — you can lose up to 10% of your body heat if your head is uncovered.

Pick a hat that looks and feels good to you and is ideal for the conditions where you’ll wear it.

GEAR GUY RECOMMENDS 7 AWESOME HATS

Some places can get really buggy, so a hat with insect protection will make your time outside a lot more enjoyable. We like OUTDOOR RESEARCH’S BUG BUCKET hat ($42, outdoorresearch.com). It’s a bucket-style brimmed hat with an integrated no-see-um head net. When you don’t need the net, it rolls up and tucks away while still providing UPF 40 sun protection.

For a day in the sun, stay in the shade by wearing a wide-brimmed hat like DAKINE’S PINDO STRAW HAT ($32, dakine.com). It has an elastic interior headband and a wicking polyester underbrim, which comes in lots of fun colors and patterns.

Express yourself with SKIDA’S ALPINE HAT ($38, skida.com). This fleece-lined beanie comes in tons of colors and prints. It’s breathable but warm, and if you’re sensitive to Merino wool, this one won’t itch.

You know those days when it’s so hot, it feels like you might melt? Beat the heat with NATHAN’S RUNCOOL ICE RUN HAT ($25, nathansports.com). This visored lid has secret side pockets for ice cubes to help cool you down. The hat’s built-in wicking sweatband keeps sweat out of your eyes.

Take the chill out of any activity with SMARTWOOL’S MERINO BEANIE ($25, smartwool.com). It’s super low bulk with low-profile seams for comfort, and it stays warm even if it gets wet.

Rain in the forecast? You can go full lobsterman with Helly Hansen’s polyester drawstring SVOLVAER SOU’WESTER RAIN HAT ($25, hhworkwear.com). The PVC fabric is completely waterproof, and the brim design keeps water from dripping down the back of your neck.

For a stylish brimmed hat, MELIN sets the standard for water-resistant baseball caps ($69, melin.com), and they come in dozens of colors, with a size and shape for everyone.

"Protect Your Head With These Functional, Fashionable Hats" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

DECATHLON’S FORCLAZ MT500 AIR BACKPACK

Winter camping is a great way to have fun outside. It’ll also help you learn to stay warm and dry when you’re out in the elements.

“Everyone hates being cold,” says Kristin Arnold, American Mountain Guides Association guide and trainer. “You can repurpose a lot of the gear you use for three-season camping for winter camping. You don’t need to buy all new gear.”

STAYING WARM OUTDOORS

Arnold’s top tip for staying warm is to layer wool, fleece, down and synthetic clothing you already own so that if you sweat, the fabric wicks the moisture away from your body. You can fine-tune your temperature by taking off layers.

“Avoid cotton,” Arnold says. “It freezes when it gets wet. Wear wool socks. Always wear a hat. Once you’re cold, it takes more energy to get warm. Maintaining body temperature is more efficient.”

ALPTREK’S PEAK SNOWSHOES

DEALING WITH THE ENVIRONMENT

For your first winter camping adventure, start with an overnighter and build up to a multiday trip. When there’s snow on the ground, shovel or stomp it to create a flat surface for your tent. This will make sleeping more comfortable. Stakes pull out in the snow, so instead, tie stuff sacks filled with snow or use sticks placed parallel with the ground to your guylines and bury them.

Place blocks of snow around the outside of your vestibule to block the wind. If you live in avalanche country, avoid camping near open trees and open slopes where there could be a slide.

EAT AND DRINK!

“Have a plan, tell people where you’re going and don’t forget the snacks,” Arnold says. “In winter, eating and drinking are key to reducing the chance of frostbite — and to having maximum fun.”

Bring food that’s easy to prepare. Dehydrated meals are perfect for winter camping because meal prep is simply boiling water, and there’s little clean up. Hot drinks are the best when you’re winter camping. Another pro tip from Arnold: If you have to pee, don’t wait. Holding your pee can make you cold.

SLEEP WARM

You’ll also want a sleeping bag rated for the coldest temperatures you’ll experience (or colder). If your bag isn’t quite warm enough, add a sleeping bag liner, double up bags if you have more than one and wear all your layers.

Anything outside your sleeping bag will likely be moist in the morning from frozen condensation. If you want to dry clothing overnight, place it between your bag and pad. Turn your boots upside-down in your tent so the insides stay dry. Open your tent vents before you go to bed. Your breath will freeze at night and make the inside of the tent frosty, which will make it feel like it’s snowing inside.

To stay warm while you sleep, fill a Nalgene water bottle ($17) with hot water before bed and tuck it into your sleeping bag, too. If the bottle is too hot, slide it inside a sock.

THE GEAR

MUCKBOOTS KIDS’ ELEMENT CAMO

For winter camping, you need insulated waterproof boots that are high enough to keep out the snow. MUCKBOOTS (starting around $110 a pair, muckbootcompany.com) makes highly insulated, high-traction boots rated to 40 below zero. They’re great, especially for a weekend campout. Insulated hiking boots work, too. For longer trips, consider winter boots with a removable liner that you can take out and keep in your sleeping bag overnight. That way, your feet will stay warm after you put your boots on in the morning.

ALPTREK’S PEAK SNOWSHOE KIT

In deep snow, skis or snowshoes are essential. Both keep you from punching through soft snow, which is tiring and makes the trail terrible for other travelers. If you can walk, you can snowshoe. Try ALPTREK’S PEAK SNOWSHOE KIT ($180, alptrekgear.com), which comes with a set of aluminum trekking poles with winter baskets and a carry bag.

GSI’S PINNACLE FOUR-SEASON STOVE

If you have a canister stove, bring an extra fuel canister for winter camping and warm it next to your body. If your stove sputters out, turn it off and swap canisters. We like GSI’S PINNACLE FOUR-SEASON STOVE ($80, gsioutdoors.com) paired with GSI’s winter-optimized isobutane fuel, which can be used with any canister stove.

MSR’S WHISPERLITE UNIVERSAL STOVE

A white gas stove is the most dependable for freezing weather. MSR’s tried-and-true WHISPERLITE UNIVERSAL STOVE ($200, msrgear.com) works with both canister fuel and white gas. Learn about BSA chemical fuels and equipment safety guidelines at go.scoutlife.org/fuel

EUREKA’S EL CAPITAN 2 OUTFITTER TENT

A three-season tent can work in winter if there’s no snow in the forecast. A four-season tent has the best weather protection and the best moisture management. Eureka’s heavy-duty wind- and rain-shedding EL CAPITAN 2 OUTFITTER TENT ($260, eurekacamping.johnsonoutdoors.com) is one of the most affordable options.

BIG AGNES’ BENCHMARK 0

If you’re looking for a winter sleeping bag, consider BIG AGNES’ BENCHMARK 0 ($160, bigagnes.com). It’s one of the most affordable, backpackable, high-quality zero-degree bags. Made from high-loft synthetic with a water-repellent shell, it’s oh-so-warm.

MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR’S BISHOP PASS 0

You’ll pay more for a down bag, but down is more packable, lighter and has a cozy warmth. MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR’S BISHOP PASS 0 ($325, mountainhardwear.com) is a toasty mummy bag with a spacious footbox.

NEMO’S SWITCHBACK

If you already have an insulated sleeping pad, you don’t need to buy another one. But do add a closed-cell foam mat to whatever you’re already sleeping on to increase the R-value, which describes how insulative the mat is. Try NEMO’S SWITCHBACK ($45-$55, nemoequipment.com), which uses a thermal reflective layer and heat-trapping depressions to boost your current pad’s warmth.

DECATHLON’S FORCLAZ MT500 AIR BACKPACK

A good backpack is key to getting gear to your winter camping spot. You might be able to make your summer backpack work, though winter gear is often bulkier. DECATHLON’S FORCLAZ MT500 AIR BACKPACK ($149-$159, decathlon.com) offers 55-liter and 60-liter versions, both of which are adjustable to give you 10 more liters of space. They feel good to carry even when fully loaded.

NORTH FACE’S THERMOBALL TRACTION BOOTIES

If there’s one thing extra you might want to pack, make it a cozy pair of slippers with a good sole. THE NORTH FACE’S THERMOBALL TRACTION BOOTIES ($69, thenorthface.com) are comfortable and keep you warm out in the snow.

"How to Gear Up for Winter" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Opinel’s No.07 My First Opinel Folding Knife ($17, opinel-usa.com) is sharp but without a point. The 3.5-inch blade is made from Sandvik stainless steel, and it holds an edge. The outdoors version ($26, scoutshop.org) also has a built-in whistle to call for help in an emergency.

With proper training, many Scouts can use a knife — a valuable tool for camping or working on a whittling project. A multitool provides multiple blades and other tools. Examples are saws, drivers and even forks and spoons.

A knife is not a toy. If you’re a Bear, Webelos or Arrow of Light Cub Scout, earn your Whittling Chip. If you’re in Scouts BSA, earn your Totin’ Chip. Then you will know how to safely carry and use one of these tools.

The CRKT Minimalist Drop Point ($36, crkt.com) has a 2-inch fixed blade with a tough handle that’s comfortable to hold. The carbon-steel blade sharpens quickly, and the half-ounce durable thermoplastic sheath has multiple mounting options.

KNIFE BASICS

There are several types of knives.

All-purpose folding pocketknives are common in Scouting. Most come with tools such as a can opener, screwdriver, tweezers and, of course, knife blades — all in one compact package. Though they can be extremely handy, a downside is the knife blade doesn’t lock into place, so it may fold up on your hand while you’re using it.

Lockbacks are simple folding knives with a single blade that can be locked. So you get the benefits of a sturdy fixed blade-style knife but in a convenient pocket-size package that can be folded open with just one hand.

Scouts have been using Victorinox Swiss Army knives for a long time. The Victorinox Swiss Army Huntsman ($50, victorinox.com), a multitool with first-aid functions, has a suite of transitional tools, including a can opener, scissors and tweezers — plus large and small blades, saw, awl, leather punch and more. It pretty much has everything you need.

Fixed blades, are no-nonsense knives with a beefy handle and stationary blade. If you need a knife to accomplish the everyday tasks you come across in the outdoors, from whittling on things and cutting materials to spreading peanut butter on your sandwiches, a short, no more than four-inch-long, fixed-blade knife will accomplish all of that. Avoid large sheath knives; they are heavy and awkward to carry.

You’ll also find specialty knives such as river rescue knives with serrated blades for slicing rope, whittling knives designed for carving wood, and multitools, which are compact, handheld tool boxes. Most are built around a pair of folding pliers.

The Leatherman Sidekick ($70, leatherman.com) is a stainless-steel toolbox on your belt. The 7-ounce Sidekick has spring-action needle-nose and standard pliers, wire cutters and stripper, knife and serrated knife, saw, ruler, can and bottle openers, wood and metal file and three screwdrivers.

FOLDING OR FIXED KNIFE? KNOW THE POLICY

Knife policies vary among packs, troops, councils and camps when it comes to what blade types and lengths are allowed. Learn your unit’s policy before buying a blade of any kind. When it comes to types of knives, the Guide to Safe Scouting recommends “choosing the right equipment for the job at hand.”

BLADES

Most blades are made from strong and durable stainless steel. Blades are available in straight edge, serrated (jagged like a saw) or both. Bigger is not always better. A small, sharp four-inch-or-smaller blade can cut just as well as bigger knives but is much safer to handle and easier to maneuver in tight spots.

Stansport’s Folding Knife, Fork, Spoon Multitool ($15, stansport.com) has more than eating utensils. The tool, which separates into wo so you can use fork and spoon together, also has a can opener, corkscrew and chisel all in a belt-ready nylon carrying pouch.

PRICE AND QUALITY

You don’t have to spend a fortune to get a quality tool. Often, an inexpensive knife will do everything you want it to do. As prices go up, you’ll see small improvements in the quality and size of the blade.

CARE AND MAINTENANCE

Knives and multitools can last your whole life if you care for them. Wipe your pocketknife with a damp cloth to clean it, and add a drop of food-safe oil at pivot points to keep it at its best. Use a sharpener to keep your blade sharp.

“A sharp knife will work for you, while a dull one works against you,” says Kyle Owens of Work Sharp, a company that makes sharpeners.

A great knife deserves an equally great sharpener. Work Sharp’s Pocket Knife Sharpener ($15, worksharptools.com) is small enough to stash in your pack, with a diamond sharpening plate and ceramic honing rod that have built-in angle guides so you can get a perfect edge on your pocketknife.

CARRY IT SAFELY

The smartest, safest place to stash your knife is in an easy-access spot in your backpack. You’re asking for trouble by wearing a fixed-blade knife on your belt. If you fall, the knife could rotate inward and you could land right on the blade.

At only 3.1 ounces, Gerber’s Armbar Trade ($50, gerbergear.com) has eight essential tools, including a knife, saw, awl, driver, pry bar, hammer and bottle opener, packed into a surprisingly small and effective pocket clip tool.

TREAT YOUR KNIFE WITH RESPECT

Treating pocket knives with respect not only ensures your safety, but also keeps others safe. Here are a few major no-no’s:

• Throwing a knife
• Using a dull or dirty blade
• Handing a knife to someone blade first
• Cutting while others are within your “safety circle” (arm’s length)
• Carving into something that doesn’t belong to you
• Cutting toward your body

Using a knife requires responsibility. Bear Scouts can start carrying a pocketknife after completing the Whittling Chip requirements. Members of Scouts BSA must earn their Totin’ Chip, which also gives them the right to carry and use axes and saws.

"How to Buy a Good Pocketknife or Multitool" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Whether you pick a tent or tarp, these shelters will guard you from the elements.

Tents and tarps both have advantages. How you want to sleep, the environment and how you want to use it can all factor into your decision.

CAMPING TARP ADVANTAGES

“Tarps are lighter than tents, most are more versatile and a tarp can easily adjust to its surroundings,” says Charlie Ranahan with outdoor gear company Mountain Hardwear. “Most tarps have multiple attachment points, and they extend over a wider area than a tent, giving you and your friends more space to hang out and sleep.”

There’s more open air between you and the outdoors, which can be a pro or a con, depending on what you’re comfortable with. Tarps really let you feel one with nature. If the weather looks good, a tarp might be a perfect choice. But when it comes to tarps, they’re not all created equal.

“Camping tarps are mostly made from nylon or polyester with special coatings that keep out wind and weather,” Ranahan says. “A camping tarp will also be a lot quieter than a blue tarp or other hardware store tarp if it’s windy. It’ll dry faster and pack better, too.”

HOW TO PICK A TENT

Opt for a tent if you want to seal yourself from wind and weather, stay warmer and steer clear of creepy-crawlies. Backpackers should look at lightweight, packable tents.

Don’t get the smallest tent. Choose one with space for you and your friends in case it rains. A tent with two doors and vestibules, which are covered areas by the doors, lets you store your packs on one side and use the other to get in and out. A tent with one door and vestibule is likely lighter.

3 RECOMMENDED CAMPING TARPS

At 9.7 ounces, the Gossamer Gear Twinn Tarp ($149, gossamergear.com, 9.7 oz.) is one of the lightest tarps you can buy. It’s so small that it could pack into an insulated mug. Roughly 10-by-9 feet when opened, the high-tenacity nylon Twinn Tarp has bug net loops at each end and two side-wall tie-out points on each side. These options give this tarp tent-like qualities. It’s thin, tough and big enough to sleep two. It’s also small enough that even if you pack a tent, you might want to bring it along as a protected hangout space.

Hang the 12-by-12 Mountainsmith Mountain Shade Tarp ($70, mountainsmith.com, 1 lb. 14 oz.) from the trees or support it with your trekking poles, and you’ve got a durable waterproof shelter. It comes in a long, narrow carrying bag that’s easy to strap on the outside of a backpack. While it doesn’t have as many tie-down points as some other tarps, it has enough to get the job done. It comes with stakes.

Roughly 10-by-12 ½ feet when it’s set up, the Alps Ultralight Tarp Shelter ($100, alpsmountaineering.com, 1 lb. 3 oz.) packs to about the size of a Nalgene bottle. The tarp has a catenary cut, which means its edges are curved. That makes it more aerodynamic in the wind and cuts down on noise since the edges tend to flap less. The cut also helps keep the tarp light. 1 lb., 3 oz.

3 LIGHTWEIGHT CAMPING TENTS

If you choose to sleep alone, a one-person tent is a cozy option. In cool temperatures, there’s less space to warm up, yet most have plenty of space for your gear. The Kelty Discovery Trail 1 Tent ($115, kelty.com, 3 lbs. 15 oz.) has two poles, and it’s quick to set up. The three-season tent has ultrafine no-see-um mesh inside, with a rainfly outside.

A solid backcountry tent, Eureka’s Suma 2 Tent ($160, eurekacamping.johnsonoutdoors.com, 4 lbs. 2 oz.) has one door, one vestibule and plenty of space inside to sleep two. A gear loft and three inside pockets help you stay organized. The color-matched tent body and rainfly make it easy to set up this tent quickly. Because it has a single vestibule, you’ll be entering and exiting where you’re storing your pack. If you are backpacking with it, it’s light enough that it won’t cramp your style.

Spacious and easy to set up, Mountain Hardwear’s Meridian 2P Tent ($275, mountainhardwear.com, 5 lbs. 8.6 oz.) is a backcountry palace. With two doors, double vestibules and five interior pockets, the symmetrical tent has a rainfly that rolls back and clips half open so you can view the stars while keeping the bugs out. It’s easy to cover the tent fully if the weather changes. It comes with a ground cloth to protect the bathtub bottom from wear and tear. Because it’s symmetrical, you can sleep head to toe, and the fly can go on either way.

"Tent or Tarp? How to Pick the Right Camping Shelter" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

If you bought your last pair of sunglasses in a convenience store or got them free somewhere, they’re probably fun to wear, but they might not be protecting your eyes.

Glare reflecting off snow, sand, water and even the sidewalk can burn your eyeballs and impact your vision. It’s worth spending a few extra bucks to get sunglasses that block ultraviolet light, fit your face and have the right lenses for the activities you like to do.

Here’s how to be a smart sunglass shopper.

BLOCK THE SUN’S UVB AND UVA RAYS

Good sunglasses make it easier to see in bright conditions while reducing the risk of eye damage. They should protect you from two kinds of ultraviolet (UV) light: UVB and UVA rays.

UVB rays, which cause sunburn, can also burn your eyes. Even in winter, UVB rays can burn you when reflected off the snow. UVA rays are radiation from the sun. Their effect might be less noticeable after a day at the beach, but over time, UVA rays can cause serious eye problems.

Before you buy sunglasses, make sure the pair you like blocks both kinds of rays. Most sunglasses have a sticker on the lens to let you know.

The GOODR NUCLEAR GNAR and GOODR I DO MY OWN STUNTS (pictured) sunglasses are great for small- to average-sized faces. They wrap around for extra protection for cycling, Nordic skiing and more. Both have polarized anti-fog lenses. ($45, goodr.com)

THE RIGHT FRAMES FOR YOUR FACE AND YOUR ACTIVITIES

The sunglass frame size should match your face size, and the lenses should fully cover your eyes. Some frames are metal, but most sports sunglasses have durable and lightweight plastic frames.

Take a look at the frame and make sure the joints are strong. The arms should be snug enough to your head so your shades don’t slip down or fall off, but not so tight that it hurts or gives you a headache.

If you’re doing speed sports, like biking or skiing, glasses that wrap around your head provide more coverage, stopping sunlight from sneaking around the sides and making your eyes water. More coverage will also help your peripheral vision, too.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT LENS FOR YOUR SUNGLASSES

For many activities, polycarbonate lenses are the most affordable. They’re scratch-resistant, and if you drop them, they won’t shatter and potentially cut you.

Polarized lenses substantially reduce glare. Go polarized if you’ll be on the water. Be aware they’re not great for driving or reading LCD screens. Mirrored lenses are a good alternative.

Photochromic lenses automatically adjust to changing light. They’re great for basically every activity except driving. They can also be pricey.

Interchangeable lenses of different colors allow you to choose your tint and polarization on demand.

BLENDERS CRYSTAL ORB shades have a chill vibe; they’re great for sunny days on the water, chucking a flying disc or just hanging out. The polarized blue and purple mirrored lenses provide 100% UV protection. ($59, blenderseyewear.com)

WHICH LENS COLOR IS BEST?

Lens tint is also use-specific. Choose blue for water activities. Dark colors including brown, gray and green are best for everyday use and outdoor activities. Darker lenses cut glare and reduce eyestrain in moderate-to-bright conditions, like on snow. Light colors — yellow, gold, amber and rose — excel in moderate and low light, and are best for sports like skiing and snowboarding. Light colors also improve depth perception, and they can make it easier to see in flat light.

SAFETY GLASSES VS. SUNGLASSES

Note that sunglasses cannot provide the same protection as safety glasses. Switch to the appropriate pair when you’re working with tools or certain materials, administering first aid, or participating in activities like shooting sports.

TIFOSI STRIKEOUT are some of the most affordable UVA/UVB blocking shades you can buy, and they have glare-reducing lenses. Choose from four shatterproof options. ($30, tifosioptics.com)

SUNGLASS RETAINERS

Unless there’s a good reason not to wear a strap — say, while mountain biking, where it could snag on a limb — it’s wise to add a retainer. You paid good money for good sunglasses; you don’t want your last look at them to be them sinking to a river bottom.

WHERE TO SHOP FOR SUNGLASSES

Sunglass-specific shops, or outdoor stores usually have knowledgeable staff, and you don’t have to worry about buying fake or counterfeit sunglasses. If you shop online, make sure to buy from a reputable company or website.

If you have your heart set on a pair of pricey shades, keep an eye out for models being discontinued, holiday sales and discounts on your first purchase, which is common on manufacturer websites.

"How to Buy Good Sunglasses" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

It’s important that properly fitted U.S. Coast Guard–approved life jackets are worn by everyone engaged in boating activities. You can learn more about life jackets in the following three safety videos.

LIFE JACKET SAFETY

Life jacket types: The best life jacket is the one you’re wearing. There are various types of life jackets, so make sure your life jacket is appropriate for the aquatic activity you’re doing. You should also check the label to make sure it is approved by the Coast Guard.

Proper fit: A snug fits is a proper fit. All straps, buckles and zippers must be secure.

Life jacket condition: Life jackets with tears, broken pieces or buoyancy loss should not be used.

When to wear a life jacket: Before you get in a boat, you should put on a life jacket. You should also wear a life jacket in clear water more than 12 feet deep, in murky water where you can’t see your feet when treading water or if you’re in flowing water.

HOW TO PROPERLY FIT A LIFE JACKET

How do you find a life jacket that fits correctly?

1. Read the label to select your size. A life jacket that is too big or too small for you is not safe.

2. Don the life jacket.

3. Fasten the restraints. Make sure all straps, buckles and zippers are secure.

4. While on shore, hold your arms up and have a buddy grab the top of your life jacket and lift. A life jacket is fitted correctly when it does not rise above your shoulders on land or above your ears in the water. If either occurs, adjust the straps or exchange the life jacket for one of the proper size.

In calm, shallow water, you can test the fit by relaxing and tilting your head back. Your chin should be well above water. If it isn’t, readjust for a snugger fit or try a life jacket with a higher buoyancy rating.

5. Safe Swim Defense and Safety Afloat policies govern all Scouting aquatics activities.

HOW TO READ AND UNDERSTAND THE NEW LIFE JACKET LABELS

Older life jackets were labeled as Type I, II, III, IV or V. That old system has been replaced, and life jackets now come with a new type of label. There are four key parts to the new labels:

1. Buoyancy: Look for an icon on the label containing a number. The higher the number, the better you float.

2. Turning performance: This icon indicates whether the life jacket will autorotate you to a face-up position if you’re face down in the water and unable to move yourself.

3. Activities: These icons indicate which activities are suitable for this life jacket

4. U.S. Coast Guard Approved: This indicates that the life jacket has been tested repeatedly for in-water performance.

Remember to check your life jacket before you wear it. A life jacket with tears, broken pieces or buoyancy loss should be disposed of.

"How to Safely Use a Life Jacket" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Bikepacking is a camping trip you take on your bike. It’s a fun way to see the sights from a saddle, cruising roads and trails. Here’s what you need to get started.

PREPARATION FOR BIKEPACKING

CHOOSE A DESTINATION: Adventure can happen anywhere, even when you set out from your back door.

Ultra-endurance racer and avid bikepacker Lael Wilcox says to go where you want to be, where you can see what you want to see. Get ideas for routes by checking out topographic maps (which will likely include backroads) or asking local bicycling shops and clubs. You can find an extensive archive of bikepacking information, with detailed route notes, including where to restock and sleep, at bikepacking.com

If you have a bike computer or GPS watch, download your route before you go. You can also use your phone to navigate. Many apps, like Komoot, let you download routes, including some free downloads. It’s a good idea to carry a hard copy map as well. Study the mileage, terrain, traffic conditions, weather and potential rest stops. Let others know about your trip.

Before any trip, make sure you have qualified adult supervision, use the buddy system, make sure your equipment is in good condition and obey all traffic laws. Prepare like you would for any strenuous adventure, including being physically ready.

THE GEAR YOU’LL NEED FOR BIKEPACKING

Bicycle

Bikes are designed for different purposes, but most any mountain or road bike with terrain-appropriate tires will do. Hardtail mountain bikes and gravel bikes are both popular for bikepacking. Wider tires are more forgiving in off-road terrain. Make sure every part of the bike works properly. Also, your bike should include mounts for various gear.

Bags

The lighter the load, the more fun the ride. Carry your gear so it has minimal impact on your body and the bike’s handling. Drybags with straps or bikepacking-specific bags are the lightest and most comfortable options. Most strap to your handlebars, top tube and frame or under your seat. Bikepacking bags, sometimes called “panniers,” from outdoors retailers ($30-$100 at REI) are some of the most affordable.

Waterproof bags keep gear dry, but you can make any bag waterproof enough by using a trash bag inside. Wilcox says simple is better.

“Stuff your sleeping bag and sleeping pad into a drybag and strap it to the handlebars,” she says.

She recommends the Sea to Summit eVent Compression Dry Sack ($35-$55, seatosummit.com) because you can tension the straps to make your sleep kit less bulky. The eVent comes in sizes as large as 30 liters. You can also carry gear in a small backpack, but many riders prefer bags that mount to the bike instead of bags you carry on your body. Riding with a backpack on a bike tour can be hot and feel heavy.

Sleeping

Look for a lightweight sleeping bag and pad. You might also want to bring a tent or tarp for protection from the weather and bugs.

Depending on where you go, temperatures can drop, even in summer. Choose a sleep system that will keep you warm. The Therm-A-Rest Corus ($270, thermarest.com) is a versatile quilt that weighs just over a pound and is designed to keep you warm down to 32 degrees. Pair your sleeping bag with a compact insulated pad, like the Klymit Insulated Static V ($100, scoutshop.org). It’s filled with synthetic insulation to protect you from the cold ground.

A bikepacking-specific tent has poles that collapse shorter than a standard tent so you can carry it on your handlebar without it sticking out too far. If you want a compact tent, get the lightest one you can afford. If a tarp will do, bring that instead.

You can flip your bike upside down and drape the tarp over it, then stake out the corners with cord and tent stakes. Check out Klymit’s Roamer Throw Tarp ($45, klymit.com) — it weighs a little more than 8 ounces and features six grommets. Be sure to avoid mud so your gear shifters aren’t damaged.

Personal Gear

Pack gear that’s light and multifunctional. If you’ll go on hikes, wear bike shoes that can handle multisport adventures, like Ride Concepts’ Vice ($100, rideconcepts.com). If you’ll be near water, think about bringing lightweight sandals, like Xero Shoes Z-Trail EV ($80, xeroshoes.com).

Dress in layers to prepare for a variety of weather and temperatures. If you’re on a budget, get creative. You can cut a head hole in a trash bag and wear it as a rain poncho. Bikepacking sometimes requires improvising. Also, remember to pack a first-aid kit.

Helmet

Don’t leave home without one. Use one with a multidirectional impact protection system (MIPS), which gives you the most protection in a crash. Some good choices are the Bell Sidetrack II ($60, bellhelmets.com) and Giro Fixture MIPS II ($70, giro.com).

Food

Dehydrated meals are a great lightweight choice, whether you buy them or make your own. If your route passes through towns, plan on restocking instead of carrying everything you need from the start of your trip.

Water

Carry water in a hydration pack or water bottle. A compact water filter, like the Lifestraw Peak Series Collapsible Squeeze 1L Bottle With Filter ($44, lifestraw.com), lets you drink straight from the bottle and refill along your route. Bring enough water bottles to keep you hydrated between water stops.

If you’re using a frame bag, you likely won’t have space for bottle cages. Try putting a hydration reservoir inside your frame bag and threading the hose so you can reach it, and then securing it with zip ties. Use a Platypus SoftBottle ($10-$13, platy.com) to carry spare water. The 1-liter bottles pack flat when empty.

Bring some electrolyte drink mixes, such as Nuun Sport ($7.50, nuunlife.com) or Gatorade.

Tool Kit

Zip ties, duct tape, a cable, cleat bolt (for clipless pedals), hex wrenches, a tube, tire levers, a pump and a multitool are bike-touring repair kit basics. Personalize your kit from there. Know how to use your tools and practice with them before your trip.

PACKING YOUR BIKE

Carry your heaviest gear under your seat, whether in a seat bag, frame bag or strapped onto your seat rails using nylon straps, such as those sold by Voile ($6-$19.50, voile.com). Carry the lightest gear on your handlebars. Too much weight on the handlebars can make it hard to steer.

"Get Your Bicycle Ready and Grab This Gear to Go Bikepacking" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Whether you’re taking a break mid-hike, kicking back around the campfire or sitting down to eat a meal, a camp chair keeps you comfy and off the ground.

Which chair is best depends on how you’ll use it. The best one for backpacking isn’t always the one you’ll want for car camping. If you’re backpacking, pick one that’s lightweight and low bulk. It can be something as simple as an inflatable seat or a foldable cushion. You can find small collapsible stools that are easy to pack.

You can also make your own camp chair: Use your pioneering skills to assemble a large tripod and hang a tarp underneath to create a chair. Find instructions at go.scoutlife.org/campchair

If you prefer to buy, consider these great options:

7 GREAT CAMP CHAIRS

Slip the ALPS MOUNTAINEERING TRI-LEG STOOL out of its tube-shaped carry case and unhook a strip of Velcro — it instantly turns into a three-legged seat. The steel-leg stool sets up and breaks down in seconds, and it’s easy to slip into the side pocket of a pack. It can hold up to 250 pounds. 2 lbs. ($25, alpsmountaineering.com)

The original backpacking camp chair is now lighter — and it rolls. Durable, dirt-repelling and padded with cored-out closed-cell foam, the CRAZY CREEK HEX 2.0 ORIGINAL CHAIR is one you can take anywhere and will last a long time. It has a 250-pound weight capacity, and it’s available in a larger size for those 6 feet and taller. 18.5 oz. ($65, crazycreek.com)

Younger Scouts should consider the REI CO-OP KIDS’ CAMP CHAIR. It has an armrest pocket, and the strap that keeps the chair closed when folded doubles as a chair carrier. It’s rated to support up to 125 pounds. 4 lbs. ($40, rei.com)

Turn your air mattress into a camp chair with THERM-A-REST TREKKER CHAIR. The kit has sleeves to hold each end of your air mattress. Side straps let you adjust the recline. It comes in two sizes to match your mattress width. 10 oz. ($50, thermarest.com)

With a seat that’s a foot off the ground and a back that puts you in a pleasantly relaxed position, the steel-frame KELTY LOWDOWN CHAIR is one of the most comfortable chairs you can buy. An insulated drink holder is expandable to hold a book or games. 7 lbs., 6 oz. ($75, kelty.com)

Like a miniature closed-cell foam sleeping pad, the z-fold NEMO CHIPPER is super light, insulating and 100% waterproof. Made from foam scraps from Nemo’s sleeping pad production, each one is unique. Folded, the sections nest to keep it compact. 7.6 oz. ($20, nemoequipment.com)

For a lightweight chair perfect for your next hike, the new BSA 37°N BACKPACKING CHAIR sets up easily thanks to its shock-corded poles. The aluminum frame and cloth material can accommodate up to 264 pounds. It also comes with a zippered carrying case. 1 lb., 14 oz. ($35, scoutshop.org)

"How To Pick the Best Camp Chair for Any Outdoor Activity" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Whether you’re spelunking, digging through your pack at night or walking around camp after sundown, you need a good light. It’s one of the Scout Basic Essentials for outdoor adventures. A flashlight or headlamp can help keep you safe while exploring in the dark, serve as an emergency signal or provide a little illumination on a good book before bed.

Let’s shine some light on which headlamp or flashlight to consider before buying.

Sleek and simple, the MINI MAGLITE PRO LED ($30, maglite.com) fits perfectly in your hand, and — thanks to its aluminum exterior — if it slips, it can withstand a 3-foot drop. The flashlight offers 332 lumens and includes 2 AA batteries with a 2 1⁄2 -hour life. 4.1 oz. A cool accessory: safety wands ($9). They’re plastic cones that fit over your flashlight, instantly turning it into a lantern.

THE BASICS

Think about how you will use your light. Will you be taking it on a backpacking trek? Look for something lightweight. Do you want your hands free? Consider a headlamp or flashlight with a clip so you can attach it to the brim of your cap. Would you like different amounts of light? Shop for something with variable settings, including a red-light option, which is easier on everyone’s eyes at night.

If you want versatility, check out the COAST G32 ($30, coastportland.com). It has high and low settings, which you control from the rear button, and you can focus the beam by twisting the bezel at the front of the flashlight. The G32 produces 135 lumens on the low setting and 370 on high. Includes 2 AA batteries with a 4 1⁄2 -hour life on high, 17 hours on low. 5.6 oz.

DURABILITY

Hard plastic should be tough enough if you accidentally drop your light. But some are made with aluminum or super-tough polyethylene plastic. Stronger materials should protect your light from the hardest impacts.

When you’re buying a light, ask yourself: Over a few camping trips will it be able to hold up to wear and tear?

It’s also best to pick a model with a push-button switch because lights with sliding buttons can accidentally be turned on in your pack, killing the batteries or bulb — and leaving you with no light.

You can carry around the COLEMAN CLASSIC 300 LUMENS LED FLASHLIGHT ($35, coleman.com) or hang it from a thin rope or carabiner through its rear bail handle. The light features four settings: high, medium, low and strobe, with 300 lumens on the high setting. It includes 3 AAA batteries with a 3-hour life on high, 75 hours on low. 5.2 oz.

BRIGHTNESS

Think about what you’ll be using your light for. If you just want a light to read by in camp, consider a small flashlight or tiny lantern with LED lights. If you need it for hiking or mountain biking, a bright headlamp with a halogen or Xenon bulb might be a better choice.

Brightness is measured in lumens. What’s a lumen? A lumen is the total amount of light emitted from a flashlight or headlamp. In general, the more lumens, the brighter the light will be. Some handheld flashlights reach levels up to 12,000 lumens — strong enough to shine on something more than half a mile away. You won’t need anything that powerful; a light producing a couple hundred lumens provides more than enough illumination.

Always be aware of where you point your light. Shining a beam into someone’s eyes can disrupt their night vision for up to 30 minutes.

The handy and lightweight PRINCETON TEC ALLOY-X ($60, princetontec.com) is a penlight. Think of how a pen feels in your hand; a penlight is very similar. Even though it’s small, it offers 400 lumens of light. The penlight features three settings you can control either with the front bezel or rear push button. It includes one rechargeable battery with a 30-minute life on high, 28 hours on low. You can swap out the battery with 2 AAA batteries. 1.5 oz.

BATTERIES

Technology has advanced beyond disposable batteries. One popular alternative is rechargeable batteries, often using a USB cord. Other lights use solar cells or magnets. Most lights, though, still operate on AA or AAA batteries but can stay on for hours, even on the brightest setting.

At 250 lumens, the PETZL TIKKINA ($20, petzl.com) presents a great value. The brightness can rotate through three white lighting levels by pressing a large push button. The stretchy adjustable headband can be removed and washed. The light also can be angled down and set into place so you can watch where you’re going. Includes 3 AAA batteries with a 2-hour life on high, 120 hours on low. You can swap out the batteries with a rechargeable one. 2.8 oz.

PRICE

Your budget will determine what you can get. More expensive lights generally have more features, but a simple flashlight for a few dollars might be a great choice. Remember that cheap lights usually are not durable and won’t last long.

One of the coolest features of the LANDER KIVA ($50, lander.com) is its rechargeable USB system. Instead of using a separate cord, detach part of the headband to reveal an integrated charger you can plug straight into a USB-A port. The Kiva’s bulb produces a warm, yellowish beam that can be adjusted by holding down the push button to produce up to 150 lumens. The headband is made from recycled plastic harvested from the ocean. Includes a built-in battery with a 2-hour life on high, 40 hours on low. 2.3 oz.

SIZE AND WEIGHT

If you mainly keep the light in your pack for emergencies or for getting around camp at night, get a smaller light. Some of the newer, more expensive small lights can pack as much power as the older big ones.

The PETZL TIKKA ($30, petzl.com) offers quality and features similar to the Tikkina. One main difference is its phosphorescent reflector, which glows green after you shut off the headlamp. This helps you find the headlamp in the dark. I turned on the light for a few seconds, and it glowed for several minutes afterward. If you hold down the push button, the headlamp’s red-light setting turns on. Includes 3 AAA batteries with a 2-hour life on high, 120 hours on low. 3.3 oz.

For a headlamp that doesn’t take up much space, the BLACK DIAMOND FLARE ($30, blackdiamondequipment.com) is perfect. This headlamp emits 40 lumens and has white- and red-light settings. Instead of a push button, you turn it on by twisting its bezel, which will probably require both hands. You can also adjust it at different angles. Includes 2 lithium coin-cell batteries. 1 oz.

Tap the side of the BLACK DIAMOND SPOT 400 ($45, blackdiamondequipment.com) and switch from a full-power beam of 400 lumens to a setting at half the power. You can also use the two push buttons to switch between settings, as well as put the headlamp on its red-light setting. A nice feature is the Spot’s three-light battery-life indicator. It also comes in a rechargeable version ($65). Includes 3 AAA batteries with a 2 1⁄2-hour life on high, 200 hours on low. 2.5 oz.

"How to Buy a Great Headlamp or Flashlight" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Transformers: This cute flashlight transforms into a lantern with feet that act like a tripod.

Tripod Lamp: The bendable legs on this lamp can be twisted into any shape to hang or mount the light on most surfaces.

Tuque Lights: A wearable headlamp embedded in a beanie can keep your head warm while it lights up the area.

Magnetic Mounts This light is studded with magnets to mount it on metal surfaces.

Flashlight Gloves: Embedding LED lights in the fingertips can be super helpful for close work or tight areas.

Prehistoric Lights: Dinosaur headlamps are the coolest headlamps!

Bright Bugs: By twisting the insect-like legs in this small light, it can be placed wherever you need it.

Vintage Flashlight: This army-style flashlight can be slipped onto a belt for hands-free use.

"Take a Look at These 7 Wacky Flashlights" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You might have heard that you can lose at least half your body heat through your head.

Well, that’s a myth. It’s closer to about 10% if your head isn’t covered. Still, that heat loss can leave you chilly, so it’s important to keep your noggin insulated. Here are some options:

Stocking hat. These hats, often made of wool or fleece, will keep your head warm even if the hat becomes damp.

Balaclava. This type of stocking hat covers more than the top of your head; it also extends over your neck, leaving only a small portion of your face exposed.

Hood. A parka jacket often includes an attached hood that you can throw over your head to provide protection from the wind and heat loss. Some hoods feature a fur ruff around your face, designed to catch moisture from your breath so it doesn’t collect inside the hood.

Scarf. You can wrap a wool or fleece scarf around your neck for warmth and pull it up over your face to shield it from the wind.

Neck warmer. A fleece or knitted wool neck warmer, also called a gaiter, can stretch around your neck and lower head to insulate both

"How to Keep Your Head Warm in Cold Weather" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You can sleep under the stars, slip into a bivvy sack or hang a tarp, but if you want a more substantial shelter, get a tent. What kind of tent should you get? Here are come variables and features to consider so you can choose the right tent for your trip.

WHEN CHOOSING A TENT FOR CAR CAMPING, HERE’S WHAT TO CONSIDER:

• CLIMATE. What kind of weather will you be camping in? Four-season tents are designed to withstand strong winds and loads of snow. If you’ll be in milder climates, a three-season tent will do the job.

• SPACE. How many people will share the tent? How much personal space do you all want? Tents can accommodate one, two, three or four sleepers — keep in mind that this label doesn’t consider backpacks or extra gear. It’s helpful to check out the tent at the store before you buy. Ask a salesperson if you can set it up so you can crawl inside and see how much room you’ll have.

Want some headroom? A dome tent might be best because of its design. Think about the ease of moving around, entering and exiting, but also the need to balance a tent’s living space against the following factors.

• WEIGHT. Look especially at a tent’s packed size, considering how much other gear you have to pack. Need something lightweight? Seek out tents specifically
designed for backpacking (see below).

• EASE OF SETUP. Larger tents usually require more time and effort to pitch and take down, which can feel tedious in nice weather and miserable in rain. Think about your tolerance for that versus your desire for more space.

• STABILITY. Tall tents with vertical walls are much more vulnerable to damage from strong winds. Those tents are best for calm weather and campgrounds protected from the wind. Low-profile models with angled walls and guylines are best for all weather. Want a tent that’s sturdy and simple to set up? Look at A-frames.

• RAIN. Some car-camping tents have a rainfly that doesn’t extend to the ground, which is fine for fair-weather camping. Get a full-coverage rainfly for camping in mixed weather; those tents usually have better stability in wind.

Want one tent for car camping and the occasional backpacking trip? The BSA BASECAMP 3-PERSON TENT ($200, scoutshop.org) hits a nice balance for both purposes at a good price. Designed for backpackers, it sports a hub pole system made of sturdy aluminum that’s similar to many pricier tents, good living space for three people with nearly 40 square feet, and a 41-inch peak height and two doors. For car camping, it will handle windy campsites, pitch and come down easily, and provide livable space, especially for two people. The weight and bulk are reasonable for backpacking. 7 lbs.

For campers who prefer a home away from home, the BIG AGNES BIG HOUSE 4 ($380, bigagnes.com) provides space to stand up (70-inch height) and spread out (57 square feet). Large mesh windows on both doors ventilate the tent, while solid panels zip over them for privacy and warmth. It features smart details like pockets that can also stow the unzipped doors out of the way. The simple pole architecture makes this freestanding tent easy to pitch and allows setting up the partial rainfly as a sun shelter. 11 lbs. 2 oz.

The COLEMAN SUNDOME 6-PERSON DOME TENT ($140, coleman.com) is a good inexpensive choice for fair-weather campers. Measuring 10 by 10 feet with a peak height of 6 feet, this tent could sleep six but offers welcome extra space for fewer occupants — it fits a queen-sized inflatable mattress. It’s easy to set up and doesn’t require a lot of campsite space like some larger tents do. A rainfly that covers the upper half of the tent — along with solid wall fabric on the tent body’s lower half and a waterproof, bathtub-style floor — provides protection against a rain shower, just in case. 16 lbs. 4 oz.

WHEN GETTING A TENT FOR BACKPACKING, YOU’LL WANT TO THINK ABOUT:

• WEIGHT. Pack weight matters and your tent is one of your heaviest pieces of gear, but it also has the most potential for reducing the total weight you have to carry. Many two-person tents weigh less than 4 pounds, and some are less than 2 pounds. Trade-offs for lower weight often include a higher price and less living space and durability.

• SPACE. The interior and vestibule space, peak height, number of doors, and details like vents and pockets all affect your experience. For example, two doors offer more convenience and ventilation than one.

• STABILITY. For backpacking (or car camping) in windy places, look for a more elaborate, sturdier pole architecture and a low-profile, aerodynamic shape.

• SETUP. Freestanding tents are usually easier and faster to pitch and dismantle than non-freestanding. That’s convenient, especially when setting up in the rain. But non-freestanding tents are often lighter and just as sturdy when pitched and staked properly. Tip: The best way to slash tent weight is to get a tent that pitches using trekking poles.

For lightweight backpacking without a heavyweight budget, the SIX MOON DESIGNS SKYSCAPE SCOUT solo tent ($145, sixmoondesigns.com) represents a super value. A hybrid single-wall design pitches using trekking poles (or two tent poles, sold separately) to create a sturdy A-frame. The mesh walls are covered by an integrated nylon rainfly that rolls up to create a bugproof shelter with an almost-unobstructed view of the stars. The 100-inch length, 23 square feet of floor space and 45-inch peak height make it very livable. Downside: It’s a bit bulky. 2 lbs. 8 oz.

If you place equal importance in a tent’s living space, weight and price, take a close look at the MARMOT TUNGSTEN ULTRALIGHT 2-PERSON TENT ($350, marmot.com). Although just ounces heavier than other models, it sports a spacious 31 square feet — more than virtually all competitors in its weight class. Tent poles bent at the corners and a short eyebrow pole over the top create vertical walls that expand your headroom for a 42-inch peak height. The sturdy pitch shrugs off strong wind, and the two doors and vestibules provide convenience while minimizing condensation. 3 lbs. 7 oz.

The REI QUARTER DOME SL 2 ($349, rei.com) justifies its popularity by striking a keen balance between low weight and livability. While it’s snug, the trapezoidal floor shape makes it feel roomier than its nearly 29 square feet, and the steep walls similarly enhance the headroom for its 38-inch peak height. The hubbed aluminum poles offer good stability in a quick, semi-freestanding pitch facilitated by color-coded attachments. Two doors and large vestibules improve ventilation and livability. 2 lbs. 8 oz.

"How to Buy the Right Tent for Your Next Adventure" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

• Find expert tips to help you get a good night’s sleep
• Picking the right sleeping pad, bag liner, pillow or cot
• How to minimize smelly sleeping bag odor

A good sleeping bag can make the difference between comfort and a long, miserable night. Follow these tips on choosing the right sleeping bag for your adventures.

KNOW YOUR BODY

If you are always wearing a T-shirt in camp when others are wearing a fleece — and you’re not cold — get a bag rated about 10 degrees lower than the lowest temperatures you encounter on trips. If you’re one
of the first people to put on an insulated jacket while hanging around camp, get a bag rated 20-25 degrees lower than the coldest nights you anticipate.

YOU CAN HARDLY BEAT THE PRICE of the COLEMAN SILVERTON 25 DEGREE MUMMY SLEEPING BAG ($69, coleman.com), but that’s just one great factor. Stuffed with synthetic insulation with offset quilt construction that eliminates cold spots — along with a draft tube, an adjustable hood and even a pillow pocket — this bag will keep many campers warm in temps around freezing and above. Sized for sleepers up to 6 feet, 2 inches, it has a spacious foot box and two-way zipper in case you need to ventilate from the top and bottom on mild nights. One downside: It’s heavy and bulky, better for car camping.

KNOW YOUR BUDGET

Prices vary depending on factors like type and quality of insulation, as well as materials used. For instance, a bag rated to zero degrees uses much more insulation than a 30-degree bag.

TEMPERATURE RATINGS

Sleeping bags usually are rated for the lowest temperature used. Many manufacturers use the EN or ISO rating system, a standardized measurement of warmth.

GEARING UP FOR YOUR FIRST CAMPING OR BACKPACKING TRIPS? The affordable and functional KELTY KIDS MISTRAL 30 ($50, kelty.com) is a great choice. The Cloudloft synthetic insulation will retain heat even if it gets damp, and the adjustable hood opening helps seal in heat. Plus, its weight and packability make it one of the most affordable bags that can cross over from car camping to backpacking.

SYNTHETIC VS. DOWN INSULATION

There are two main types of insulation: down and synthetic.

Down is generally warmer, lighter and more packable than synthetic insulation — especially higher-quality down (rated 800-fill and above). But it’s typically more expensive and loses its ability to keep you warm if it becomes wet. There is some water-resistant down.

Synthetic retains its ability to trap heat if the bag gets wet. These sleeping bags are usually heavier and less packable than down bags, but they are also less expensive. They’re the best choice for wet adventures.

THE DRAWBACK OF LOW-PRICED SYNTHETIC BAGS IS THEY CAN BE TOO HEAVY ND BULKY FOR BACKPACKING. Enter THE NORTH FACE ECO TRAIL SYNTHETIC 20 SLEEPING BAG ($129, thenorthface.com). At under 4 pounds (regular length) and packing down to 10-by-18 inches, this mummy bag is made for backpackers on a budget. Its EN limit rating of 20 degrees derives from recycled synthetic insulation — in fact, all materials that go into the bag are recycled, except for the zipper teeth. A wraparound J-zipper and extra width in the knees make it feel roomier than many mummy bags and expands options for ventilating. And it comes in unisex sizes ideal for Scouts nearing adulthood.

WEIGHT

This matters when you’re backpacking, but less so when car camping.

Lighter, higher-quality insulation costs more, but you can also reduce weight and bulk by not buying a 15-degree bag when you need only a 30-degree bag.

DON’T NEED EXTRA WARMTH OR THE WEIGHT AND COST THAT COME WITH IT? The ALPS MOUNTAINEERING AURA +35° ($100. alpsmountaineering.com), made for mild summer nights, weighs in under 3 pounds and packs down to 8 ½-by-16 ½ inches. The synthetic insulation is packaged within two-layer offset construction that eliminates cold spots and is buttressed by a zipper draft tube. Bonus: It comes with a compression stuff sack.

MUMMY VS. RECTANGULAR SHAPE

Mummy bags taper from head to foot for thermal efficiency (less space to heat up) and to minimize weight and bulk, but some can feel claustrophobic.

Rectangular bags are more spacious, but are generally heavier, bulkier and sometimes have cold spots.

Treat a bag like boots: Try it on before buying.

THE KELTY COSMIC DRIDOWN 20 ($160, kelty.com) isn’t the least expensive bag on this list, but it might be the best value. Built for three-season backpacking with an EN limit rating of 19 degrees, the Cosmic is generously stuffed with water-resistant 600-fill down, packs down to 8-by-15 ½ inches and weighs under 2 ½ pounds. The dual-slider zipper doesn’t snag, and the hood and draft collar keep warmth inside. It comes in three lengths, including a small for people up to 5 feet, 6 inches. Try finding a bag with all those features at this price.

CONSTRUCTION

Less expensive, yet lightweight, bags have sewn-through baffles, which can create cold spots along seams. Higher-quality horizontal baffles are typically warmer. Also look for a draft tube (along the zipper), collar (inside the hood) and no-snag zipper guard.

GEAR GUY’S ADVICE?

Get what you can afford. With an inexpensive bag, you can still get outdoors, which is what’s most important, right? If and when you have the dough for a nicer bag, it will make your wilderness adventures a little more luxurious.

CARING FOR YOUR BAG

Properly cared for, a sleeping bag can last 10-20 years. Body oils can compromise insulation, so to prolong your bag’s life, you should sleep in clean base layers. Air out your bag after each night of camping, but don’t leave it exposed to sunlight for long periods.

Post-trip, hang the bag to dry for a day or two, and then place it in a big storage sack or an old pillowcase. Be sure to store it in a dry place. If your bag gets really dirty or starts losing loft, follow the manufacturer instructions for washing it.

"How to Buy the Best Sleeping Bag" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Wearing a bicycle helmet cuts the chance of seriously hurting your head if you’re in a bike accident. But that same helmet might not provide good protection if you wear it while rock climbing or skating. Here’s how to pick a safe and comfortable helmet.

THE PRO-TEC CLASSIC ($55) and CLASSIC JUNIOR ($65, two sizes, protecbrand.com) helmets, certified for skateboarding and cycling, maximize protection for rippers with a high-density shell, inner foam liner and 11 vents. The Junior’s magnetic buckle won’t pinch your neck, and the dual-direction ratcheting adjustment system gives you a customized fit without having to change helmet liners.

CERTIFICATION

Get a helmet designed specifically for your sport. Don’t be distracted by the helmet’s style. What’s more important is if the helmet meets the proper protection standards. Just check for the sticker inside the helmet with the certification on it before buying.

THE PRO-TEC CLASSIC CERTIFIED SNOW STEALTH ($70, protecbrand.com) helmet is certified for skating, cycling and snow activities. It adds removable ear pads, a heat-sealed liner and a goggles clip, enabling three-sport use in all seasons.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Multi-Directional Impact Protection System (MIPS) helmets come in different versions for different sports. The most common design uses a liner inside the helmet that offers more protection in a crash, potentially reducing brain trauma.

With a bicycling helmet, consider what and how you ride. Helmets for the road and cross-country mountain biking prioritize low weight and ventilation; trail and enduro models protect the back of your head; and downhill helmets add a chin bar.

Integrating high-impact-absorbing EPS foam with dual-density foam plus fabric liners, the TRIPLE EIGHT CERTIFIED SWEATSAVER ($70, triple8.com) helmet carries certification for both cycling and skateboarding, saving multi-sporters money. Triple Eight donates a portion of sales to The Skatepark Project for the creation of public skate parks.

When buying any helmet, take a look at the helmet’s design. The safest helmets are those that are rounded without any snag points sticking out that could hurt you during a fall.

Vents are good for keeping your head cool, but more vents equal less foam and, possibly, less protection. So pick a helmet with no more vents than you think you’ll need.

Finally, if you’ll be cycling or skating around traffic, choose a brightly colored helmet so you’ll be easier for drivers to see.

The ventilated LAZER GEKKO MIPS ($65, azersport.us) helmet uses an automatic fit system that enables proper fitting to your head quickly and safely without having to move a dial — and has the protection of MIPS.

THE PROPER FIT

You should have a snug fit, but not so tight that it’s too uncomfortable.

Some helmets come with removable foam inserts to customize a snug fit. With the helmet level on your head, use your fingers to measure the space between your eyebrows and the helmet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3u51W0LN2U?rel=0

You shouldn’t have any more than two fingers of space above your eyebrows. You don’t want it flopping down over your eyes either.

STRAP IS KEY

Always buckle your helmet. It only takes a second to strap it on. And if you fall and it’s not strapped, the helmet isn’t going to stay on and won’t do any good. Plus, you’re not looking any cooler wearing it without the strap.

The FOX RACING YOUTH MAINFRAME HELMET ($80, foxracing.com) combines extended back-of-the-head coverage; cool ventilation; a lightweight fit system; and a removable, moisture-wicking liner with MIPS protection. It’s also available in adult sizes.

HOW MUCH IT’LL COST

These days, some high-end helmets can cost up to several hundred dollars, but don’t worry: you can get a safe cool-looking one for much less.

For trail and bike park riders who go big and fast, the BELL SUPER 3R MIPS ($235, bellhelmets.com) features a removable chin bar, easily changing over between a half-lid for trail mountain biking and a full-face helmet. In full-face mode, big, soft pads cushion your face, while the half-lid setup has a close, ventilated fit.

TRY BEFORE YOU BUY

Whether you go to a bike or skate shop or a big superstore, it’s important that you try on a bunch of different helmets to find the one that fits your head best. Salespeople in small specialty shops can help you find the optimum fit; in big stores you’re usually on your own.

Either way, don’t just pick one that looks cool. If you’re going to wear a helmet, you might as well have the safest one.

For any climbing, the BLACK DIAMOND VISION MIPS ($140, blackdiamondequipment.com) delivers all-day comfort, thanks to a design that’s highly adjustable. The EPS foam puck on the top of the head protects from falling rocks while the EPP foam shell surrounding it provides side impact protection — it’s the best of both worlds. The outer shell is ABS, a more durable type of plastic shell than thin, easy-to-dent polycarbonate.

LEARN MORE

Visit the Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute’s Web site at Helmets.org to find out everything there is to know about helmet safety.

There are good reasons the NRS HAVOC LIVERY HELMET ($53, nrs.com) ranks among the most popular with whitewater kayakers and rafters. For starters, it’s made from tough ABS plastic, known to withstand a lot of hard use. The glued-in, closed-cell EVA foam liner and plush-fit pads on the front and back deliver comfort. An adjustable system makes it one of the few one-size-fits-all whitewater buckets, making it a useful spare helmet that anyone you invite can wear. The price helps a lot, too.

"How to Buy a Safe and Comfortable Helmet" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

• Click here for the Gear Guy’s sleeping bag buying guide
• Find expert tips to help you get a good night’s sleep

You might not think your sleeping pad or air mattress is important until you spend a miserable night on a bad one. Follow these buying tips and grab a top pick.

SLEEPING PAD BUYING GUIDE

There are two types of sleeping pads:

Closed-cell foam pads: These simple pads insulate well and are lighter, cheaper and more durable than air mats. But they’re also much bulkier and usually need to be carried under external straps on a pack rather than inside it.

Air mats: With lots of choices in a range of prices, air mats are far superior in comfort to foam pads.

Self-inflating air mats mostly inflate when unrolled but usually require a few breaths to firm up. Other mats come with a small pump or sack with a mating valve for inflating.

Air mats are lightweight and pack down enough to fit inside your backpack. For three-season backpacking, air mats typically weigh under 1½ pounds and roll up to slightly larger than a liter bottle.

CONSIDER THESE FACTORS BEFORE CHOOSING A SLEEPING PAD

• Air mats occasionally puncture and go flat. Many come with a patch kit, but it can be difficult to locate a hole and repair it in the field. A mat’s denier rating indicates how strong its fabric is. The lower the rating, the softer — but lighter — the mat will be. A high denier rating means the fabric is tough but heavier.

• The standard size for sleeping pads is 20 x 72 inches. Taller than 6 feet? Most manufacturers make a larger size, but it’ll cost you.

• Some air pads make loud crunching noises when you shift around on them, which can be an annoyance to tentmates.

• For car camping, there’s almost no limit on size, so don’t fret over buying a lightweight backpacking air pad. A bulky air mattress — or old school cot — will do the job.

• Before buying, make sure the mat or pad is comfortable to you. The energy you lose through a bad night’s sleep will far exceed the energy you save by carrying a lighter pad on the trail. Make sure you get a pad on which you can sleep comfortably.

WHAT’S THE R-VALUE?

Sleeping pads and air mats are not just for padding. They also protect you in chilly temperatures and provide critical insulation against the ground. The R-value measures how well it insulates:

• An R-value below 3 indicates minimal insulation, adequate only for warm nights.

• A value of 3 or higher denotes a mat with insulation for camping on cool nights (above freezing temperatures). Chronically cold sleepers should find a mat rated closer to 4.

• Look for 5 or higher for camping on frozen ground or in sub-freezing temperatures.

GEAR GUY’S TOP PICKS FOR SLEEPING PADS AND AIR MATS

Outdoor beds don’t get simpler or cheaper than a foam pad, and the THERM-A-REST Z LITE SOL ($36, thermarest.com) sets the standard in this category for packability, durability and low weight — if minimalist on comfort. (Tip: Look for soft ground like pine needles or sand.) This egg-carton pattern closed-cell foam pad folds up like an accordion and lies flat when you open it up, and it has a heat-reflecting surface. But at 3⁄4 inch thick and a 2.0 R-value, it isn’t super comfy. 14 oz.

With 2 1⁄2 inches of thickness, body-conforming chambers and numerous air pockets, hard ground goes soft on the KLYMIT STATIC V ($60, klymit.com). The typical 72-inch length gets a comfort boost from the 23-inch width, more than many regular air mats, while the 75-denier polyester shell fabric is tougher than what many competitors use. It’s still just a few ounces north of a pound. 1 lb. 3 oz.

At 3 1⁄4 inches thick with outer chambers to keep you on the mat, the BIG AGNES INSULATED AIR CORE ULTRA ($80, bigagnes.com) delivers deluxe comfort at a good value, reasonable weight and low bulk. Separate high-volume valves and an upcycled inflation sack make inflating and deflating quicker. Synthetic insulation and heat-reflective technology give it an R-value of 4.5, good for nights around freezing. Nylon ripstop fabric and aviation-grade thermoplastic polyurethane lamination improves durability while minimizing weight. 1 lb. 6 oz.

Three inches thick, with waffle construction that improves stability and distributes weight evenly, the NEMO TENSOR ULTRALIGHT INSULATED SLEEPING PAD ($190, nemoequipment.com) inflates quickly using a Vortex pump with a micro-adjustable valve for precise inflation control. This saves your breath and minimizes moisture (a heat conductor) entering the mat. Two layers of suspended metalized film keep the mat quiet. This year’s updated model uses a continuous thermoplastic polyurethane film to prevent convective heat loss, raising the R-value from 3.5 to 4.2 — without any weight gain. 15 oz.

For starters, the SEA TO SUMMIT ETHER LIGHT XT INSULATED AIR SLEEPING MAT ($180, seatosummit.com) blends two types of insulation: a quiet, non-woven fabric with a metalized layer that reflects radiant heat and a hollow-core insulation that lofts to prevent convective heat loss, giving this mattress an R-value of 3.2. At 4 inches thick, the Ether Light XT incorporates a matrix of interconnected air chambers that conform to your body. Its 21 1⁄2-inch width at the shoulders exceeds most regular-sized mats, and it weighs barely more than a pound. 17.3 oz.

"How to Buy a Good Camping Air Mat or Sleeping Pad" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Whether you want to chat with friends on the ski slopes or you need to send a message during an emergency, having a communication device sure comes in handy.

TWO-WAY RADIOS

The classic portable walkie-talkies are used primarily for communicating with party members over relatively short distances: While some devices have a range up to 25 miles, terrain and other conditions often limit the signal to a couple of miles.

Look for:

• Ergonomic radios that are easy to use, like when wearing gloves.
• High-powered (1-2 watts) models that provide better reception — even in steep terrain — and better signal quality.
• Radios with a Continuous Tone Coded Squelch System (CTCSS) or Continuous Digital Coded Squelch System (CDCSS), which provide a privacy or interference-elimination code in addition to 22 channels, helping avoid the channel clutter of other conversations in busy places.
• Features like paging, scanning, weather radio, noise filter and keypad lock.
• Even though different types of walkie-talkies can communicate, buy units in pairs to enable the use of all features on your unit.

The durable and rechargeable MOTOROLA TALKABOUT T600 H2O ($120/pair, shop.motorolasolutions.com) is waterproof and floats, and has 22 channels and 121 privacy codes, hands-free operation, a Push-to-Talk power boost when extended range is needed, an NOAA weather channel and a keypad lock. It covers a range of up to 35 miles and runs on three AA batteries. 1 lb. 9 oz.

ONE-WAY SATELLITE MESSENGERS

For sending messages from the wilderness to a party back in civilization, look into a one-way satellite messenger, like the SPOT GEN4 ($150, findmespot.com), with options that range from sending customized messages (you can program up to 1,250 messages) and your location to specific recipients to sending an SOS to the appropriate emergency-response team. Spot requires a service plan; prices start at $12/month. One drawback: It doesn’t receive messages. 5 oz.

TWO-WAY SATELLITE MESSENGERS

The most versatile messaging devices for the backcountry are two-way messengers, used primarily for multiday wilderness adventures. They provide the ability to share your location as well as exchange text messages with another party.

The BIVYSTICK ($350, bivy.com) is a smart little device that’s half the weight of a smartphone and, when paired with a phone, provides two-way texting via satellite to phone numbers or email addresses. Features include location sharing and tracking, SOS signaling with Global Rescue and preset check-in messaging. Downside: It isn’t cheap and requires a data plan (purchased separately, $18 to $50/month). 3.5 oz.

The popular, compact and lightweight GARMIN INREACH MINI ($350, garmin.com) sends messages either directly or with a paired cellphone, and allows texting back and forth. The GARMIN MONTANA 700I ($700, garmin.com) expands the backcountry tool kit with GPS functionality and a 5-inch display and keyboard for typing messages more easily. Garmin’s annual plans start at $12/month. 3.5 oz.

"How to Choose a Backcountry Communication Device" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Whether you want to scale the walls at your local climbing gym, go bouldering or rope up outside, you’ll want to know the basic and best gear you’ll need. Talk with a qualified instructor who can help you decide what equipment is appropriate for your skill level.

THERE ARE DIFFERENT TYPES OF CLIMBING:

Bouldering involves practicing climbing moves close to the ground while not attached to a belay rope. Anyone bouldering should have two or three spotters in position, ready to break a person’s fall and help prevent injury. You shouldn’t be bouldering any higher than your shoulder’s height.

Top-rope climbing is when a climber is secured to ropes anchored above them and throughout the climb. Belayers manage the ropes from the top or bottom of the climbing routes.

In lead climbing, the climber is secured to belay ropes below. During the ascent, the climber inserts artificial protection like cams, stoppers or other hardware into cracks in the rock, and then attaches the rope with carabiners or quickdraws (two carabiners connected with a piece of short, sturdy material).

Sport climbing: Climbing sport routes by clipping onto bolts demands additional safety gear. Your qualified instructor should supply what you need.

THE FIRST AND MOST BASIC GEAR FOR CLIMBING ARE SHOES

Athletic shoes and light hikers are fine for beginning climbers. But if you want more performance and control, you’ll need climbing-specific shoes. There are several types, from tight-fitting sock-like climbing slippers, to flexible and super grippy friction shoes, to edging shoes, which provide performance with more comfort.

Climbing shoes should be tight but not painfully so. You might size down a size or two from your street shoe when picking a climbing shoe. They are also usually available for rent at climbing gyms and are sometimes provided for use at Scout camps.

If you’re just getting into this sport, you’ll want all-around climbing shoes like Black Diamond Momentum Climbing Shoes ($100, blackdiamondequipment.com, 1 lb. 4 oz.). With a comfortable, flat-shape, sticky but durable outsole, stretchy uppers and hook-and-loop closure to easily put them on or take them off, these shoes should take you from the gym to easy, multipitch routes.

Another affordable all-around shoe is the Mad Rock Drifter ($59, madrock.com, 16 oz.). The medium stiffness, leather uppers, slightly asymmetrical shape, rubber outsoles and hook-and-loop closure strike a neat balance between comfort and performance on any surface.

If you’re interested in steep sport climbing outdoors or bouldering indoors, the La Sportiva Solution ($180, sportiva.com, 1 lb. 5 oz.) is a top performer. Its aggressively downturned toe, good sensitivity, sticky rubber and supportive platform help it stay securely in place on the tiniest footholds.

A HELMET IS MANDATORY GEAR FOR ANY OUTDOOR CLIMBING

A helmet is one of the most important pieces of climbing gear because it protects your head from hitting something as well as from falling rocks and gear. The climber, the belayer and anyone walking around the climbing area should be wearing one.

Wear only an approved climbing helmet; bicycle and football helmets aren’t acceptable because they’re not designed to protect you from falling objects.

If you’re warm-natured or climbing somewhere hot, look for a light-colored helmet with plenty of ventilation. But most important, pick one that fits comfortably snug.

The Black Diamond Vision Helmet ($100, blackdiamondequipment.com, 7.5 oz.) delivers ultimate protection with comfort. The most durable foam helmet the company makes, the Vision provides superior side and back coverage while remaining very lightweight. Ventilation ports help you keep a cool head on warm days, and integrated headlamp clips are low profile.

WHEN TYING INTO A ROPE, YOU NEED — OF COURSE — A HARNESS

The harness is a belt system that fits around a climber’s hips and legs and safely secures you to a climbing rope. A harness comfortably distributes your weight and allows you to easily attach yourself to the belay rope as you ascend. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations on how to attach to the harness. The waist belt and loops distribute your weight in many directions for comfort and safety in the event of a fall.

Though it’s possible to tie a seat harness from a single piece of webbing, a commercially made harness is more comfy. Pick a harness that is tight but not so much that it restricts your movement. When in doubt, choose the smaller size.

The Black Diamond Momentum ($70, blackdiamondequipment.com, 8.5 oz.) sports comfort, easily adjustable leg loops, a pre-threaded waistbelt buckle for safety and a pair of gear loops. Plus, the adjustability range ensures it’ll be used until the time comes to replace it.

MORE GEAR YOU CAN GET

• CHALK BAG: Climbing chalk helps your hands get a better grip by keeping them dry. The bag holding this chalk can be attached around your waist.

• BELAY AND RAPPEL DEVICE: These devices serve as brakes to help the belayer or rappeler apply friction to the climbing rope.

If you want to get a belay-rappel device, those come in a variety of designs. The Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay/Rappel Device ($22, blackdiamondequipment.com, 2.3 oz.) is a traditional tube-style device with ridged grooves that create high friction on a rope, for stopping a falling leader or rappelling confidently using a rope with a diameter from 7.7 to 11mm. It’s not auto-locking, but it’s a popular piece of gear for teaching a valuable skill.

The Black Diamond Big Air XP Package ($33, blackdiamondequipment.com, 4.7 oz.) includes the ATC-XP belay-rappel device and a BD screwgate locking carabiner.

• CARABINER: A ring with a spring-loaded gate used to connect pieces of climbing equipment and secure rope. Be careful when shopping, as some look-alike carabiners are not designed for climbing.

• QUICKDRAW: A quickdraw attaches your rope to a protective piece on the rock, like a bolt or stopper. Quickdraws are designed to easily attach to a bolt and clip a rope in seconds — something climbers appreciate when dangling from a tricky handhold.

• CRASH PAD: This adds protection in case you fall while bouldering. You shouldn’t be bouldering any higher than your shoulder’s height.

• CLIMBING ROPES: The rope helps you climb or descend safely. Dynamic ropes are designed to stretch in case of a fall, while static ropes don’t stretch as much and are better suited for rappelling.

• STOPPERS: Also called “nuts,” these can be placed in a crack of a rock to serve as a temporary anchor.

• CAMS: Like a stopper, this anchoring device can fit into a crack. You pull a trigger and release it to fit the cam into a crack.

CLIMBING SAFELY

Before you go climbing, check the safety rules in the BSA Climb On Safely and Belay On guides. Climbing using ropes and bouldering (climbing a few feet above the ground without a rope) is an appropriate activity for all Scouts; however, some techniques, like belaying, which involves rope work to prevent a climber from falling far, should be done only by older Scouts.

For any climbing activity, make sure to have qualified adult supervision, at least two qualified instructors, an established safe area to climb and the proper equipment. Everyone should be physically fit and mentally ready for the climb.

Visit go.scoutlife.org/climbsafely for more info.

"How to Buy Rock Climbing Gear" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Whatever your winter activity, staying warm requires finding the right combination of layers. The specific layers depend on your body, the temperature, wind speeds and how much you sweat.

BASIC TIPS FOR STAYING COMFORTABLE IN THE COLD

MOVE. Clothing does not produce heat; it only traps the heat your body produces. If you feel cold, start moving or pick up your pace.

PACE YOURSELF. Avoid sweating heavily, because wet clothing conducts heat away from your body. Set a pace that keeps you warm without causing you to overheat.

FUEL UP. In cold, dry conditions, you become dehydrated more quickly than you realize. Drink frequently. Carry a thermos with a hot drink. Your body also needs more fuel in colder temps to maintain its internal furnace. Eat high-fat snacks like chocolate and nuts, because fat is a slow-burning fuel that keeps your body going. Don’t underestimate your caloric needs.

WINTER GEAR FOR YOUR BODY

Wear a layering system that includes a wicking layer, one or more insulation layers and a waterproof layer. Swap these on and off as much as needed. Put on an extra layer when stopping for a short break, and take it off when you start moving again (unless you’ve gotten cold).

The Shell or Windproofing Layer

The outermost layer, the shell jacket and pants protect you from wind and wet conditions.

There are two types of shells: the hard shell is a lightweight layer that’s windproof and waterproof, capable of handling heavy rain and very wet conditions; a soft shell is made of a more flexible, soft-faced material that’s windproof yet highly breathable, and water-resistant enough to protect you against everything except a heavy downpour.

For hitting the slopes, you’ll need plenty of insulation — plus a hooded shell that fights off wind and flying snow. The COLUMBIA WHIRLIBIRD II INTERCHANGE JACKET ($140, columbia.com) combines three jackets in one with a waterproof-breathable shell and an inner jacket packed with synthetic insulation that also features a thermal reflective liner to put body heat to good use. The two jackets can each be worn alone or zipped together for the coldest conditions; the shell has a lined hood and a powder skirt. Columbia’s Outgrown system lets you extend the sleeves by 1 1⁄2 inches to accommodate a growing kid.

Insulation or Warmth Layer

The insulation layer is worn atop the base layer and is designed to provide the majority of your insulation. It should be made of fleece, wool, down or synthetic insulation and can be a pullover, zip-up jacket or vest, depending on how much insulation you need.

How much insulation you need depends on many variables, but a versatile piece that can be worn as an outer layer or as part of a system is the PATAGONIA BETTER SWEATER ($89, patagonia.com). This full-zip midweight jacket will get plenty of use from downhill ski runs (under an insulated shell) to chilly days hiking, sledding and traveling to school. It has two zippered hand pockets and a tall collar to block cold wind.
 
With some moderate- to high-exertion activities, a vest strikes a good balance of trapping core heat while letting the body release excess heat and moisture. The REI 650 DOWN VEST ($60, rei.com) marries a windproof polyester shell fabric with a durable, water-repellent finish to shed light precipitation with 650-fill power down for a good warmth-to-weight ratio and packability — it stuffs into one of the zippered hand pockets.

Base or Wicking Layer

Also commonly known as long underwear, the base layer is worn closest to your skin. Its main job is to wick away sweat and moisture so your skin stays dry.

Wear it relatively tight to the skin and use only wool or synthetic base layers. Never use cotton because it will not keep you warm once it’s wet, whether from sweat or precipitation.

These base layers come in various weights, from heavy for frigid conditions to lightweight for warmer temps and activities that cause a lot of sweating, such as strenuous hiking and cross-country skiing.

It’s a good idea to have one extra pair of base layers to change into every night at camp.

As with insulation, a midweight base layer delivers the most versatility in a range of temps. The REI MERINO MIDWEIGHT CREW BASE LAYER TOP ($50, rei.com) accomplishes exactly that. Its ultrafine 18.5-gauge merino wool wicks sweat off skin and feels soft, and wool naturally resists getting stinky. The close fit means optimal wicking, but underarm gussets and flat seams mean full range of motion and no chafing. Plus, a droptail hem keeps this shirt tucked in — no snow in the pants.

WINTER GEAR FOR YOUR HEAD

You’ve surely heard this before: If you’re cold, put on a hat.

Just as with any exposed skin on your body, you can lose lots of heat through your bare head. So cover up with a wool or synthetic stocking cap. Those with earflaps can be especially handy.

To trap the maximum body heat, pull your jacket’s hood over your head. And when the air is so cold it seems to take your breath away, try wearing something to cover your face such as a face mask, scarf, bandana, neck gaiter or balaclava (a pullover hat with a cutout for your face).

During the winter, days are shorter so it’s always a good idea to carry a headlamp with you in case you need to find your way in the dark.

WINTER GEAR FOR YOUR FEET

Nothing can cause more misery than hiking around in soggy boots. If you want to keep your feet warm, keep them dry. Invest in a pair of waterproof boots, preferably those with warm insulation and removable liners so you can dry them out each night.

Many people underestimate the value of a quality pair of socks. For cold weather, go with wool (though synthetic blend works OK, too), and consider wearing a silk or neoprene sock liner under it to wick away sweat and minimize blistering.

Also, if you’re expecting to be in very wet conditions, try wearing an old plastic grocery bag between your liner sock and your wool sock as a moisture barrier. For really cold conditions, try cutting up pieces of an old foam sleeping pad to make insoles for your boots that provide added insulation from the cold ground.

WINTER GEAR FOR YOUR HANDS

Start with a thin pair of wool or synthetic liner gloves, then layer them with an outer waterproof glove or mitten. Mittens are often slightly warmer because they let you share warmth between fingers, but gloves give you better dexterity.

WINTER GEAR FOR YOUR TUMMY

When you keep your body well fueled, it acts like an internal furnace that keeps you warm. Try to eat foods packed with slow-burning calories, like nuts, cheese, peanut butter and hard sausage.

Even though you’re not hot and sweating, cold weather can still dehydrate you quickly. So drink plenty of water on the trail. If your pee is dark yellow, then you’re not drinking enough!

For really cold climates, consider carrying an insulated water bottle or hydration bladder, or keep a small canteen of water close to your body to prevent it from freezing.

WINTER GEAR FOR YOUR BOTTOM

This may seem silly, but always pack a small square-shape scrap of foam pad to use for a sit cushion or kneeling pad. Besides providing a layer of insulation between your body and the cold ground, the pad can also help you avoid getting wet.

WINTER GEAR FOR SLEEPING

For winter camping, your best bet is to use a layered sleeping system.

Start with your standard sleeping bag. Assuming it’s not rated for freezing temps, you can up the warmth of your bag with a silk or fleece liner and by wearing warm clothes and a stocking cap to bed. You can also fill up space in your sleeping bag (thus keeping you warmer) with other pieces of clothing. Added bonus: Your clothes will be toasty warm in the morning.

For truly cold temps, layer your sleeping bag with an overbag, basically an oversized sleeping bag that provides an extra layer of insulation that can boost the temp rating of your sleeping bag by 20 degrees or more.

Next, be sure to have a single or double layer of sleeping pads to insulate you from the cold ground. It’s great to have one pad in between your sleeping bag and your overbag.

Finally, camping inside a structure like a quinzee (also called a snow dome), snow cave or igloo, or a four-season tent will keep you out of the wind and weather while you sleep.

"Stay Warm and Dry This Winter With These Gear Tips" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You’re ready to go backpacking, but looking at the cost of all the needed gear has you wondering: Will you even make it to the trailhead?

That’s understandable. Prices can be intimidating, but there’s good news. You don’t need to drop a small fortune to outfit yourself for backpacking — in fact, you can get functional gear relatively inexpensively.

Here are some tips on how to find high-quality gear at discounted prices and a few suggestions on key pieces of backpacking gear that are inexpensive all the time.

KNOW WHERE AND WHEN TO BUY

Follow these simple tips to find the best deals on gear:

• Wait for sales. Don’t buy last minute. Whenever possible, wait for big sales, when websites and stores slash prices by up to 50% or more, which happen regularly in spring, late summer or fall, and the holidays.

• Shop discount sites. REI Outlet, Sierra Trading Post, theclymb.com and others offer high-quality gear and apparel from top brands for bargain prices, because the products have been discontinued or replaced.

• Buy used gear. It’s unbelievable how much slightly used gear there is for sale by people who bought something, hardly used it and are selling it at prices far below new. Find a used-gear exchange near home, a local outdoor-gear store or hiking club selling used gear.

• Shop big-box stores. While much of the stuff they offer does not cut it for backcountry use, you might be surprised at the functionality of some backpacks, tents, backpacking stoves or rain jackets for sale.

10 INEXPENSIVE PIECES OF GREAT BACKPACKING GEAR

BACKPACKS

A backpack should fit your torso and have basic features suited to multiday backcountry hikes. The Gregory Icarus 40 ($120, gregorypacks.com) has an adjustable harness to fit torsos measuring 13 to 18 inches, as well as features found on good-quality packs like multiple external pockets and durable fabrics. 2 lbs. 4 oz.

The BSA Ultralight 50L Backpack ($100, scoutshop.org) has an adjustable unisex harness that fits torsos 15 to 21 inches, an aluminum internal frame that carries 30 pounds or more comfortably, the capacity for weeklong trips, plus five exterior pockets. 3 lbs. 6 oz.

TENT

Tents sturdy and light enough for backpacking rarely come cheap, but the Kelty Grand Mesa 2 ($130, kelty.com) delivers performance at a relatively modest price and weight. This three-season freestanding shelter pitches fast and has a spacious interior for two people. Notably, materials like the aluminum poles and 68-denier floor and rainfly assure good durability. Downside: only one door and vestibule. 4 lbs. 1 oz.

SHOES

Finding affordable hiking shoes means getting low- or mid-cut shoes with comfort, support and construction that punch above their price, and few match the classic Keen Big Kids’ Targhee Waterproof Hiking Shoe ($70, keenfootwear.com). The shoes’ waterproof-breathable membrane keeps water out and prevents overheating, and the textile and leather uppers ensure durability and a good fit. 1 lb. 2 oz.

RAIN JACKET

The best values in rain jackets are those made with a brand’s proprietary waterproof-breathable technology, and the Columbia Watertight Jacket ($50-$75, columbia.com), with Columbia’s Omni-Tech waterproof fabric, delivers high-value performance at a surprisingly low cost. It has the features of a pricier shell, like an adjustable hood and hem and zippered pockets, and packs into a pocket.

SLEEPING PADS

How minimalist are you willing to go? How about really cheap but functional and durable? The classic Therm-a-Rest RidgeRest Classic Sleeping Pad ($20, scoutshop.org) provides basic padding and insulation against the ground, will never spring a leak (it’s a foam pad, not an air mattress) and will last as long as you want. 14 oz.

If you’d prefer a bit more cushion against the hard ground, the Klymit Static V inflatable air mattress ($55, scoutshop.org) measures 72 inches long and 23 inches wide and boasts 2.5 inches of thickness. The R-value — a measure of insulating properties — is just 1.3, not enough for cold ground but fine on mild nights, and it’s light and packable enough for backpacking. 1 lb. 2 oz.

"How to Buy Great Backpacking Gear on a Budget" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Nobody likes bug bites. And some insects can spread serious diseases, such as Lyme disease, West Nile virus and dengue fever.

You can avoid biting insects using this three-part strategy.

1. DON’T GO WHERE BUGS ARE.

Mosquitoes, ticks, no-see-ums, horseflies and the like generally emerge with warmer temperatures in spring. They thrive in wet places, especially around lakes and in forests. They persist into mid- or late summer or fall, depending on climate, disappearing once nights dip to freezing temperatures.

• Think high and dry. Take trips to drier destinations at higher elevations. Insects often breed in boggy areas with tall grass and standing water.

• Welcome the wind. Seek campsites that are exposed to wind, because blustery conditions might keep bugs down.

• You’ve probably seen swarms buzzing around lights at night. If you’re car camping, set up camp away from artificial lighting.

2. USE AN EFFECTIVE REPELLENT.

Insect repellents containing DEET or picaridin can effectively fend off biting insects. The BSA recommends DEET register at a 20%-30% concentration and picaridin at a 20% concentration. Some repellents to consider are Cutter Backwoods Dry Insect Repellent (4 oz., $5, cutterinsectrepellents.com) and Off! Sportsmen Deep Woods (8 oz., $6, off.com).

Repellents containing DEET can be sprayed directly onto clothing; it will not damage cotton, wool or nylon, but avoid using it on synthetics other than nylon. Repellents containing picaridin can also be sprayed directly onto clothing and will not damage fabrics.

Sprayed on clothing, sleeping bags and other gear, Sawyer Permethrin Premium Insect Repellent for Clothing, Gear and Tents (12 oz., $13, sawyer.com) repels insects for six weeks or six washes.

Don’t spray permethrin directly on your skin. Also, when you use sunscreen and a bug repellent, use separate products, not a 2-in-1 solution. Apply the sunscreen first and let it dry, then apply the bug repellent.

3. COVER UP.

When insects are unavoidable, clothing provides great protection.

• Wear long pants and a long-sleeved shirt to protect your arms and legs. A wide-brimmed hat with a neck flap or a neckerchief tucked under your hat can cover your neck and ears.

• Wear clothing treated with the insect repellent permethrin, like the Insect Shield Youth UPF Dri-Balance Long Sleeve T-Shirt ($24, insectshield.com) and Insect Shield Girls’ Zip Hoodie ($26, insectshield.com), Insect Shield Boys’ Performance Ripstop Pant ($29, insectshield.com) and Insect Shield Girls’ Protection Legging ($18, insectshield.com).

• Consider wearing a head net like the Sea to Summit Mosquito Head Net ($11-$13, seatosummitusa.com).

• In tick habitats (forests, tall grass and meadows), tuck your pants into your socks and frequently check yourself for ticks. If you wear light-colored clothing, it’ll be easier to see and remove ticks before they’ve embedded into your skin.

"3 Proven Ways to Avoid Bug Bites in the Outdoors" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Hydration packs have built-in access to water you can drink while you’re wearing the pack. They come in many designs and sizes, specialized for activities like hiking, mountain biking and running.

Like a camel, these packs are equipped with a special bladder that lets you carry all your water on your body; you just drink it through a special straw.

Consider these factors when choosing a hydration pack:

It’s not surprising that the CAMELBAK M.U.L.E. ($115, camelbak.com) has long been a bestseller. With a narrow profile, moderate weight, multiple pockets and features, helmet attachments and a 3-liter bladder, it’s a favorite for mountain bikers, but crosses over seamlessly to hiking and other sports that don’t demand an ultralight pack. With 12 total liters of cargo space, it swallows extra layers, tools and food for a multi-hour adventure. 1 lb., 6 oz. The KIDS’ MINI M.U.L.E. ($50, camelbak.com) holds 1.5 liters. 7 oz.

CAPACITY

Does it hold enough water and other stuff for your needs? Water capacity often ranges from 1.5 to 3 liters, plus just enough space for a light shell jacket and snacks — perfect for a long day hike.

Whether on the trail or around town, the GREGORY NANO 18 H2O HYDRATION PACK ($70, gregorypacks.com) delivers basic functionality at a good value. The Nano 18 offers a magnetic sternum strap to hold the bite valve when not in use. The bladder holds 3 liters of water and has its own designated pocket. 1 lb.

WATER DELIVERY

Mouthpiece-hose designs vary; some are much easier to clean, which matters if you’re adding a drink mix. Some have magnets for attaching the hose to the pack’s sternum strap.

For mountain bikers, the OSPREY SYNCRO 12 ($130, osprey.com) scores high on every measure, from comfort, support and fabric breathability to ease of use, accessing contents, drinking or refilling water. Its 12 liters of gear space will hold your extra layers and food, and the trampoline-style back panel and shoulder straps shaped for the way your arms reach forward onto handlebars provide superior comfort. The pack’s reservoir can hold 2.5 liters. 1 lb., 11.5 oz.

WEIGHT

A pack for, say, mountain biking will often be too heavy for running but might cross over nicely to hiking.

For ages 8 to 12, the REI TARN 15 ($60, rei.com) is a light all-purpose hydration pack for virtually any activity. Padded shoulder straps, a ventilating back pad and a thin webbing belt give it comfort for carrying several pounds. The Tarn sports enough capacity for clothes, snacks and incidentals, and features multiple pockets, a 1.5-liter bladder and durable materials. 15 oz.

SIZE

Will it fit you? The smaller designs come in one size or a couple of unisex sizes, while larger packs have two to four gender-specific sizes.

You’ll want the pack to fit snug and not slung low on your lower back, otherwise it’ll cause painful pressure and bounce around like crazy while you’re moving.

For girls whose shoulders and back length don’t yet fit an adult pack but have outgrown a kid’s pack, the OSPREY KITSUMA 3 ($65, osprey.com) fits the bill. The low-profile shoulder straps and slender body, along with the mesh back panel, keep the pack stable and you cool. The 2.5-liter bladder supports longer trail outings, and a pocket holds small items. The OSPREY KITSUMA 1.5 ($55, osprey.com) fits kids under 5’6″ better. 7 oz.

DESIGN

Does it have the features you want? If you have one use in mind, there are specialized packs for it. For example, running packs and vests are slim and light, have multiple pockets within reach while wearing it and tend to ride high on your back — some hikers might like them, too. For multiple activities, find a multipurpose pack.

A mesh harness that makes the pack almost unnoticeable on your back and a secure, zippered pocket for a phone makethe CAMELBAK CLASSIC ($60, camelbak.com) a top choice for short adventures. A sleeve holds the 2.5-liter bladder. 5 oz.

EASE OF CLEANING

If you don’t keep your hydration pack clean you’ll risk getting sick. If you leave water in something for a while, it gets stale and can develop bad bacteria.

If you’re lazy, look for something dishwasher-safe. (It should say so on the label.) Hydration packs are notoriously tough to clean. The easiest are ones that have openings large enough for you to stick your hand inside. Some have detachable hoses, but to really get one clean, you may need to buy a special brush.

REPLACEMENT BLADDERS

If your hydration pack springs a leak or gets too old, it’s easy to buy a replacement reservoir without replacing the entire pack. These water bladders can also be used to convert any daypack into a hydration system.

The OSPREY HYDRAULICS 3L RESERVOIR ($36, scoutshop.org) has a backerplate to provide structure and make it easier to load into a full pack. It also has a handle to make it easy to pull out. The loops on the right and left side of the carry handle allow you to customize which side your water hose is hooked on.

The Big Bite valve on the CAMELBAK CRUX 3L RESERVOIR ($35, scoutshop.org) delivers 20 percent more water per sip. The valve self-seals to prevent unwanted drips.

"How To Buy a Great Hydration Pack For Water on the Go" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

A lightweight backpacking stove provides a welcome hot drink and meal in the backcountry and might become critical gear if you must melt snow for water. Find the right stove for your adventures using these tips.

3 TYPES OF BACKPACKING STOVES

Backpacking stoves fall into one of three basic categories, according to the type of fuel they burn:

CANISTER STOVES burn isobutane-propane fuel in pressurized canisters and are popular for their simplicity, reliability, durability and power. Some are inexpensive, compact and ultralight. Designs range from tiny stoves that screw onto canisters to integrated systems.

Flame control and performance in wind vary and fall off sharply in subfreezing temperatures.

LIQUID-FUEL STOVES run on white gas and other fuels. A separate stove and fuel bottle require assembly, pressurizing and priming the burner.

Heavier and bulkier than canister stoves, they excel in subfreezing temperatures.

ALTERNATIVE-FUEL STOVES burn either solid fuel tablets or small pieces of wood. These stoves are popular with hikers for their low weight and simplicity, but they boil water and cook food slowly.

The BSA recommends you do not use liquid alcohol fuels, including isopropyl alcohol, denatured ethyl alcohol and ethanol. Use only fuels that are in accordance with the equipment manufacturer’s instructions. Do not modify equipment beyond its design limitations.

HOW TO CHOOSE A BACKPACKING STOVE

Canister stoves are widely popular and considered the most convenient for backpacking trips. Liquid-fuel stoves are often the choice of winter campers and mountaineers. And many thru-hikers prefer pocket-style stoves that take up little space in their already-stuffed packs.

Consider how you will use your camping stove, talk with your buddies to get their recommendations and check out a few of our favorites, shown on this page.

RECOMMENDED BACKPACKING STOVES

Few burners are simpler, cheaper or lighter than the ESBIT TITANIUM STOVE ($20, esbit.de). Its three folding legs open to suspend a small pot over a tiny tray where you light a solid fuel tablet (pot and fuel tablet purchased separately). Best if you’re going ultralight hiking; the stove lacks flame control and boils water slowly but reliably. 0.4 oz.

For simplicity, durability and price, it’s hard to beat the MSR POCKETROCKET 2 ($45, msrgear.com). Its folding support arms screw onto a canister and can handle a pot up to about 2.5 liters. It can boil a liter of water in just over 3 minutes, and the flame control won’t burn your noodles. Few stoves are lighter or more packable. 2.6 oz.

The SNOW PEAK LITEMAX TITANIUM STOVE ($60, snowpeak.com) offers the most power in the lightest, tiniest package. Made from titanium and coated aluminum, it has folding arms that pack small enough to close your fist around. When deployed, it can hold a small pot and quickly boil water. It also offers flame control. 2 oz.

For backpackers seeking to step up performance in a cooking system that’s still reasonably light and compact, the JETBOIL MINIMO ($150, jetboil.johnsonoutdoors.com) integrates a 1-liter pot/cup with a burner and heat exchanger mounted atop a fuel canister. It has a push-button lighter, good power and flame control, and is twice as efficient as simpler burners (you carry less fuel weight). Bonus: In subfreezing temperatures, it has exceptional performance for a canister stove. 15 oz.

The MSR WINDBURNER GROUP STOVE SYSTEM ($200, msrgear.com) elevates efficiency to an art form. This all-in-one kit combines a 2 1⁄2-liter pot that sits securely atop an enclosed pressure-regulated burner, which connects to a canister via a fuel line. The ceramic-coated aluminum non-stick pot has a ring on the bottom that fits over the burner ring, centering itself while trapping heat. The design benefits include consistent heat output, a windproof flame with simmer control and the ability to boil a liter of water in about 6 minutes. 1 lb. 4 oz.

As with any flame, burning stoves consume oxygen. They also give off carbon monoxide, a colorless and odorless gas that can kill. Always cook in a well-ventilated place — not inside a completely closed tent or snow cave.

"How to Buy a Backpacking Stove For Your Next Camping Adventure" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Whether you’re a dayhiker conquering local hills or a hardcore wilderness backpacker, your most important piece of gear is the same — and it might be the item you’ve put the least thought into buying: your boots.

The wrong hiking footwear can send a backcountry adventure downhill fast. Take your first steps on your next successful adventure with these buying tips and one of these top-performing shoes and boots.

The low-cut SALOMON SPEEDCROSS J SHOES ($75, salomon.com) are lightweight, comfortable and grippy. Non-waterproof mesh uppers provide exceptional breathability on the hottest days. Features like a molded midsole and one-pull lacing deliver sneaker-like fit and comfort. The toe cap protects feet from inevitable bashing on rocks and helps the shoes endure many days of playground use, and the outsole sticks to everything from steep slabs to rocky trails. While they’re not waterproof, they will dry very quickly. Best for day hiking and everyday wear. 6.3 oz.

HIKING BOOTS OR HIKING SHOES?

Plain sneakers or trail-running shoes are fine for an occasional hike but will not provide the support, traction, protection, durability or comfort of good hikers.

If you’re planning to do multi-day hiking and backpacking, or trail activities in cold or wet weather, you’ll want sturdier hiking shoes or boots with extra ankle support and possibly waterproof protection.

Modeled on the popular adult shoes, the KEEN KIDS’ TARGHEE WATERPROOF LOW-CUT SHOES ($53, keenfootwear.com) are built for hard use. The membrane keeps feet dry. The one-pull lacing system snugs easily and tightly around your feet, and the padded tongue, collar and heel cradle your foot comfortably. Uppers made of leather and synthetic textiles with a mesh lining are durable and breathable. Bonus: These shoes use leather sourced from tanneries that minimize chemical use. 9.7 oz.

HOW MUCH SHOULD HIKING BOOTS COST?

How much should you spend? It depends on what features you want. The price tag rises with a waterproof-breathable membrane like Gore-Tex, leather uppers and a beefy toe bumper to improve durability, an outsole designed for good traction in varied terrain or simply a sturdier design. It’s worth it to pay for these features if you’ll be hiking frequently in wet environments or on rugged trails.

Since you’re probably growing out of your shoes quickly, durability might be less important. Odds are, you’ll grow out of them long before you’ll wear them out. So cheaper entry-level shoes and boots might be good enough. Also look for clearance sales at local shops and online deals. When you see a really good sale, think about planning ahead and buying for the next size you’ll need.

Some troops have a shoe/boot bin or hand-me-down program. Donate a pair of boots you’ve outgrown, and grab a pair that fits. And if your troop doesn’t have a boot bin, start one! (Remember: A new set of $20 insoles can really freshen up a pair of used boots.)

Looking for a light, comfortable, well-fitting boot at a good value for everything from day hikes to introductory backpacking trips? Check out the ADIDAS TERREX MID GTX KID’S HIKING BOOT ($110, adidas.com). Armored with tough nylon ripstop uppers and a molded toe cap, these mid-cuts are built for rugged trails. The Gore-Tex membrane provides top-notch waterproofing. One-pull lacing makes them easy to put on and take off. The lugged outsole grips dry and wet ground. 7.8 oz.

HOW TO FIT A HIKING BOOT

Fit varies greatly between brands. Buy boots at a store where they know how to measure your feet. When trying on shoes and boots, make sure you’re wearing the type of socks you’ll be hiking in. The heel should be snug with enough wiggle room for your toes up front. Kick the floor — your toes shouldn’t hit the end. Try on different brands and walk around in them in the store. Spend at least 10 minutes test driving them. It might time to get a good fit, but never as long as it takes to limp painfully for miles down a trail.

If you buy online, try them inside your house, because once you’ve worn new shoes outside you usually can’t return them.

If you’re planning to do winter hiking, look for extra toe room for thicker socks and better foot circulation.

BREAK IN YOUR BOOTS

While your new boots or shoes might feel comfortable right out of the box, it’s not a good idea to wear brand-new shoes on a long hike without breaking them in first — unless, of course, you like painful blisters! So start by wearing your new shoes to school, around the house, anywhere you can. The more time you spend in them ahead of time, the better off you’ll be on the trail. This is especially important with new leather boots.

The first rule of shopping for gear at a good value: Look for a brand with a longstanding reputation. The mid-cut L.L. BEAN KIDS’ WATERPROOF TRAIL MODEL HIKERS ($59, llbean.com) have a lace-up closure for a fit that conforms to the foot, a waterproof-breathable membrane and uppers that marry waterproof suede with breathable polyester mesh for durability while keeping your feet dry. L.L. Bean’s EVA midsole provides comfort while the versatile Trail Trac outsole grips just about any type of terrain you step on. 1 lb. 11 oz.

WATERPROOF BOOTS?

Get boots with a membrane to keep your feet dry if you often hike in wet conditions. Waterproof membranes like Gore-Tex, eVent and others usually do a good job of keeping the water out (think: stream crossings, heavy rains).

If you’re a fair-weather hiker, footwear without a membrane is far more breathable, keeping your feet cool on hot days

If you’re stepping into adult sizes and need a tough, comfortable, well-fitting boot at a good value, try on the OBOZ BRIDGER MID WATERPROOF ($180, obozfootwear.com). A single-density midsole and forefoot plate deliver solid support and protection underfoot. The widely spaced multidirectional lugs give reassuring traction on rocks, packed and loose dirt, and scree. Leather uppers and a rubber toe bumper stand up to hard use. Oboz is known for its nice fit, including a roomy toe box, and the brand’s unusually well-cushioned insole. 2 lbs. 6 oz.

TRACTION

Often overlooked is the outsole design, which determines how well your boots grip the ground. Look for deep, widely spaced lugs for mud, scree, loose dirt and snow. Smaller multidirectional lugs are common in lighter shoes for varied terrain, while a smoother grippy patch under the toes helps shoes stick when scrambling over rocks.

Get the quality of an adult boot packed into a smaller package in the TIMBERLAND JUNIOR MT. MADDSEN WATERPROOF HIKING BOOTS ($80, timberland.com). These rugged hikers boast many of the same features of the adult versions: good support and cushioning for full days on the trail, a waterproof-breathable membrane, secure lacing for a snug fit, premium full-grain waterproof leather uppers, and outsole lugs that bite into any surface and are aligned with the foot’s pressure points to maximize traction. 1 lb. 8 oz.

LEATHER VS. SYNTHETIC HIKING BOOTS

Usually less expensive and lighter, synthetic uppers vary significantly but can offer a versatile combination of durability and breathability. More expensive leather uppers are often more durable and conform to your feet, improving the fit. Either type may be paired with a membrane.

CARING FOR YOUR HIKING BOOTS

Always clean your boots after every hike. If you have leather hiking boots, apply a leather treatment like Nikwax every once in a while to keep them waterproof and prevent cracking and drying out. Never dry wet boots by the campfire. The heat will damage the soles and weaken the glue that holds them together. To dry them out, just remove the insoles and stuff your boots with newspaper.

"How to Buy a Great Pair of Hiking Boots" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Serious mountaineers, polar explorers and other adventurers who routinely face extreme cold follow a hard-and-fast rule: Always bring extra gloves, because losing the use of your hands creates a life-threatening situation.

You might never encounter such danger, but whatever your outdoor activities, the choice of handwear matters a lot.

GLOVES OR MITTENS BUYING TIPS

Gloves offer much better dexterity, while mittens keep your hands and fingers warmer by enclosing them in the same space rather than separating them.

• For moderate-exertion winter activities in which dexterity isn’t critical, like skiing, choose mittens for very cold temperatures or gloves for moderately cold temps.

• For temps from the 20s to 40s and high-exertion activities like mountain biking, running and cross-country skiing, where bulky gloves are too warm or not practical, choose lighter, low-bulk gloves. They also offer better dexterity than heavier, warmer gloves.

5 RECOMMENDED GLOVES AND MITTENS FOR WINTER ACTIVITIES

Need a functional, basic, inexpensive pair of gloves? Look no further than the COLUMBIA FAST TREK GLOVE ($20, columbia.com). Made of 100% polyester microfleece with elastic cuffs and a grippy palm, these won’t be warm enough for downhill skiing (though fine for cross-country) or temps far below freezing, but they will serve purposes as diverse as playing outside, shoveling snow and camping in chilly weather. They come in a few colors and sizes. 1.8 oz.

For activities from skiing to camping to playing outdoors, the OUTDOOR RESEARCH ADRENALINE GLOVE ($40, outdoorresearch.com) keeps hands warm and dry. Besides having plenty of synthetic insulation, these kid-sized gloves come packed with features found in pricier adult models, like a waterproof, breathable insert; a ladder-lock wrist cinch; a single-hand gauntlet closure and a grippy palm. 4.4 oz.

You might not find better quality or warmth per dollar than the BLACK DIAMOND RECON MITTS ($89.95, blackdiamondequipment.com). When it’s really cold — even below zero — these mitts will keep your digits toasty and dry, thanks to PrimaLoft Gold insulation on the back and front, a waterproof-breathable insert and Pertex Shield gauntlet cuff, plus goat leather palms for grip and durability. 7 oz.

It’s hard to find a better deal than the GORDINI GTX STORM TROOPER gloves or mittens (each $69.99, gordini.com). Both are stuffed with Megaloft synthetic insulation and feature a Gore-Tex waterproof membrane, stretch-woven shell fabric for breathability, gauntlet cuffs and goatskin leather. Coolest feature: zippered pockets on the backs of the hands for inserting heat packs. 9 oz.

Few gloves have the quality and versatility of the SMARTWOOL RIDGEWAY GLOVE ($90, smartwool.com). With water-resistant goat leather almost everywhere, a double layer of leather reinforcing the thumb and forefinger, and a soft Merino wool and nylon lining, the Ridgeway is a warm, highly durable, low-bulk, all-around glove you can wear for everything. The unisex sizing runs slightly small. 5 oz.

"How to Buy Good Gloves or Mittens for Winter Activities" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Forget everything you know about headlamps — the KNOG BANDICOOT ($35, knog.com) is the coolest light for your noggin. For starters, it’s a rechargeable headlamp that’s lighter and cheaper than many competitors that use batteries. The Bandicoot’s silicone housing seamlessly merges the strap, body and LEDs, and stretches to fit everyone. It has five modes with four brightness levels each, including high-power, proximity and red, plus a lockout mode and charge indicator. Now you can afford to give up the battery habit. 2 oz.

Make your campsite a true hangout with the SERAC CLASSIC SINGLE HAMMOCK ($35, exploreserac.com). Perfect for first-time hammock buyers, it’s easy and quick to set up and pack up. It’s made from parachute-grade nylon, measures 9 feet by 4 feet deployed and has a capacity of 400 pounds. The kit includes tree straps and carabiners. 14 oz.

Combining modern and ancient tech, the BIOLITE CAMPSTOVE 2 ($150, bioliteenergy.com) burns small sticks or wood pellets to create a portable campfire, and it converts that heat to electricity for charging phones, lights and other small devices via a USB port. The flames generate enough heat to boil a liter of water in less than 5 minutes — that’s fast for a portable wood-burning stove — while the entire unit packs down to the size of a liter bottle. 2 lbs.

THE OUTDOOR ELEMENT FIREBINER MULTITOOL CARABINER ($15, outdoorelement.com) puts six useful tools at your fingertips in a device that weighs only an ounce: a firestarter that produces sparks when you swipe a built-in wheel, a bottle opener, a utility blade, a screwdriver, hanging slots and extra ferro rods for the spark wheel. Plus, the carabiner is rated to hold 100 pounds. 1 oz.

For the ultimate solar-powered charging station for multiple days of camping, grab a GOAL ZERO YETI 150 POWER STATION + NOMAD 14 PLUS KIT ($330, goalzero.com). Quiet and tough, the Yeti can be charged by the sun using the Nomad 14 Plus solar panel, a car battery or a home wall outlet. Two USB ports and the 12-volt output will charge devices as large as a laptop. The 14-watt Nomad 14 Plus solar panel has a kickstand so you can adjust its angle to the sun, and a solar intensity indicator tells you the angle for maximum recharging. Really cool: The Yeti’s auto restart feature kicks the unit back on if it’s somehow disconnected without achieving a full charge during the day. 13 lbs., 14.5 oz.

Thinking smaller and more affordable? Juice up a phone and light up a campsite with the GOAL ZERO MINI LANTERN ($40, scoutshop.org). Charged via USB at home or solar panels (sold separately) in camp, the Mini Lantern casts up to 210 lumens from its adjustable lantern and can recharge a phone or other small device. Folding legs and a magnetized base provide options for positioning it. 8 oz.

"Extra-Cool Camping Gear to Make Your Outing More Fun" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

MICROCHIP

A microchip for your dog is essential. Your vet can put this tiny piece of technology under your pet’s skin so if lost and then found, he or she can be tracked back to your family.

REFLECTING DOG LEASH

Anything that makes you and your pet easier to spot on paths near roads and bike routes is a great thing. Stay safe with the Four Paws Nite Brite Reflecting Dog Leash ($23, fourpaws.com).

LIGHT-UP COLLAR

A light-up collar is another important piece of safety gear. The NiteDog Rechargeable LED Collar ($25, niteize.com) is adjustable, water resistant and super bright. The glow will make him one cool dawg.

DOGGIE HIKING BOOTS

Heading for rough terrain? Check with your vet to make sure your dog can handle it. If so, consider getting him some hiking boots. Grip Trex Dog Boots ($75, ruffwear.com) are versatile and help dogs grip the same surfaces that your hiking boots do.

TRAVEL WATER BOTTLE

The Top Paw Travel Water Bottle ($9, petsmart.com is easy to pack and includes a built-in water dish. Making sure your dog has frequent water breaks can remind you to stay hydrated, too.

DOG BACKPACK

If your dog is sturdy enough to carry an extra pound or two, she can carry her own water bottle, treats and first-aid kit with the Singletrak Dog Hydration Pack ($90, ruffwear.com).

FIRST-AID KIT

Besides your human first-aid kit, pack a gallon-sized resealable bag with first-aid supplies to help your four-footed friend in an emergency. Here’s a list of supplies to include in your dog’s first-aid kit.

WASTE BAGS

Leave No Trace applies to dogs, too, you know! Be sure to grab a Cycle Dog Earth Friendly Pickup Bag ($6 for 72 biodegradable bags, cycledog.com) before you go out.

Note: While taking your furry friend along for an outing in pet-friendly areas can be a treat for both of you, pets should never accompany you to a Scout event or outing.

"Gear up Your Pup! Make Hiking With Your Dog Safer With These Gadgets" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Dayhiking is simple: Stuff what you need into a small pack and head off for a day of adventure. What can seem complicated is picking the right daypack.

YOUR FIRST QUESTION: WHAT DO YOU NEED A DAYPACK FOR?

Determining when, where and how far you hike — and how much gear you’ll carry — is a first step toward narrowing choices. Do you want to go lightweight and minimalist or have abundant capacity and an assortment of pockets and features? Should your daypack be built for toughness or be lighter for trekking easygoing trails?

Then, of course, there’s price.

After answering those questions, look at these factors when choosing a daypack:

CAPACITY

A daypack that can hold between 16 and 22 liters has enough space for most dayhikes for which you’re carrying extra layers of clothes, food, water and a few incidentals (camera, first-aid kit, fishing pole). If you want to carry more, especially in wintry conditions, look at packs with 28-40 liters of space. For a quick hike in good weather, a 12-liter pack works.

SUSPENSION

Any pack’s comfort weight limit depends on its internal frame (if there is one) and suspension (the shoulder straps and waist belt). Packs less than about 1 1⁄2 pounds usually offer minimal support and are made to carry about 10-12 pounds. For carrying up to 15 or 20 pounds or more comfortably, packs have a metal wire frame and/or a plastic framesheet, padded shoulder straps and a waist belt.

FIT

As with larger backpacks, the fit affects comfort, especially with more weight in the pack. Models made for youth have smaller, narrower suspensions. Teens can often wear adult models, in which small daypacks designed for 10 pounds or less often come in one size, while larger daypacks often come in two or three sizes and in men’s and women’s models.

ORGANIZATION

If you like an organized pack, look for quick access to the main compartment — like a clamshell-style top zipper or a side zipper — plus multiple external pockets. The tradeoff? Those features add cost, weight and bulk.

MATERIALS

While many hiking daypacks are made with similar materials, some are constructed with more durable materials — but, again, this might increase weight and cost.

THE BEST DAYPACKS

FOR YOUNGER SCOUTS: If you’re 8-12 years old, take a look at the REI CO-OP TARN 18 PACK ($45, rei.com). It has an ideal design for a young hiker: zippers to quickly access the main compartment, as well as a front pocket, a stretch front pocket, hipbelt pockets, padding in the shoulder straps and hipbelt, and a ventilating back pad. At 18 liters, the Tarn has the space and organization for water, snacks, a jacket and maybe a favorite action figure. 1 lb. 1 oz.

BARGAIN BUY: On a budget? The KELTY BSA 15L DAYPACK ($30, scoutshop.org) has a spacious 15 liters of capacity and two external pockets. The one unisex size fits torsos 18-21 inches for taller teens. Stuffing into its own top pocket, it’s packable and light enough to bring on backpacking trips for side hikes. But with no frame, belt or sternum strap, consider its comfort limit well under 10 pounds, best for short outings. 14.5 oz.

LIGHT ALL-PURPOSE PACK: For coming in at just 18 ounces, THE NORTH FACE CHIMERA 18 PACK ($100, thenorthface.com) punches above its weight, starting with comfort even on long hikes carrying up to 15 pounds, thanks to a harness that disperses the load across wide shoulder straps. Its very cool DynoCinch System compresses the load to improve stability using cords within reach when wearing the pack. The 18-liter capacity is enough for all-day three-season hikes, and includes quick access to two zippered compartments plus convenient mesh pockets on the shoulder straps. 1 lb. 2 oz.

BIKING PACK: If you’re serious about mountain biking, the CAMELBAK M.U.L.E. HYDRATION PACK ($110, camelbak.com) offers top performance. The streamlined, torso-hugging unisex harness remains stable whether you’re cranking uphill or ripping downhill. The main compartment — accessed quickly with an external zipper — has 9 liters of space, and with five external pockets, it’s easy to store bike tools and other small items. The pack also features a stretch pocket and external hooks. Bonus: It comes with a 3-liter CamelBak bladder to help keep you hydrated. 1 lb. 5 oz.

ULTRALIGHT AND VERSATILE: Fast-and-light adventurers should look closely at the SIX MOON DESIGNS DAYBREAKER DAYPACK ($120, sixmoondesigns.com). It has impressive capacity for its weight: 24 liters in the main compartment, an extension collar that adds 4 liters, plus stretch-woven pockets on the front and sides (2 liters total). The 210 D Nylon Robic delivers good durability, and a removable back pad doubles as a sit pad. For committed ultralighters, the hip belt and hydration sleeve can be removed to slash 3 oz. 1 lb. 4 oz.

FOR BIGGER LOADS: For adventures that aren’t short, casual or light, the men’s DEUTER TRAIL PRO 36 and women’s TRAIL PRO 34 SL ($165, deuter.com) offer big volume and lots of features, plus way more capacity and versatility than many competitors. The spring-steel suspension and plastic framesheet let you haul 25-35 pounds. This traditional top-loader has a U-shaped zipper to access the main compartment and six pockets, ice ax and trekking pole attachments, and a rain cover. And just try to damage it — won’t happen. 3 lbs. 7 oz.

"How to Buy a Great Daypack for Hiking" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Camping and backpacking are all about getting dirty guilt-free, right? Well, yes, but with an important reminder: The same hands we use for building campfires, exploring the wilderness and relieving ourselves outside will also — several times a day — handle food that goes into our mouths.

Hands are a primary route for transmitting bacteria, viruses and other little nasties that can wreak serious havoc. Follow these tips to make sure you stay healthy and clean.

FOOD SAFETY

• Always wash your hands before eating or preparing food. Whenever soap isn’t appropriate (for instance, to avoid contaminating water sources), scrub and rinse your hands in water to remove dirt, and then use hand sanitizer to kill germs and bacteria.

• Instruct everyone to not stick their hands into a shared food bowl or bag. Use a serving spoon or pour food into a personal bowl.

DON’T FORGET

• Must-haves on any trip include a toothbrush, small tube of toothpaste and dental floss. And don’t forget toilet paper!

• Girls, don’t forget feminine hygiene products. Follow Leave No Trace principles in the backcountry by packing out any used items.

• A small plastic bottle of unscented alcohol-based hand sanitizer — or a large bottle for a group — should be standard equipment on any trip. Keep it where everyone can see and use it, like on a picnic table in camp. Don’t wait to learn this lesson until you suffer a miserable day of vomiting from a bacterial infection.

CLEAN GEAR

Camping wipes, like Surviveware Biodegradable Wet Wipes ($10 for a pack of 32, surviveware.com) or Combat Wipes ($7 for a pack of 25, combatwipes.com), provide a quick, convenient way for washing. Taking a “bath” with camping or baby wipes to remove dirt and sweat prevents infections, helps you sleep better, and keeps your sleeping bag from getting dirty and smelly. Pack out any used wipes, even those sold as biodegradable.

If you prefer soap, use biodegradable products like Dr. Bronner’s Pure-Castile Liquid Soap ($7 for an 8-ounce bottle, shop.drbronner.com) or Campsuds ($6 for 4 oz., sierradawn.com). A bandanna or quick-drying microfiber pack towel doubles as a washcloth that can be easily rinsed and dried after each use.

Like hands, your feet are also a cleanliness priority. They spend hours a day in shoes or boots getting sweaty, which can promote blisters and fungus growth. At least once a day, remove your footwear and socks, and rinse your feet. Dry them thoroughly before putting your boots back on.

At the end of the day, a solar camp shower left sitting in the sun provides a hot, albeit brief, shower. The Sea To Summit Pocket Shower ($35, 5 oz., seatosummitusa.com) is light enough for backpacking and holds about 2 ½ gallons. Don’t bathe with soap in a stream or lake; phosphates in standard soap can pollute water and cause harmful algal blooms. Instead, bathe at least 200 feet from bodies of water.

With a limited wardrobe, use the same layers when hiking, and keep a clean change of base layers to wear around camp or when sleeping. Carry enough underwear to change every day. You can wash your clothes if necessary. Again, remember to not wash them in or near bodies of water so you don’t contaminate the aquatic environment.

"Stay Clean and Healthy in the Outdoors With These Hygiene Tips" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Chow time is one of our favorite things about camping. Whether it’s a steamy pot of cheesy pasta or warm biscuits fresh out of the Dutch oven, good food makes for good times on the trail. Proper nutrition is key when you’re hiking and spending time in the outdoors because it nourishes your body and your spirits. But cooking takes a little work and the right kind of gear.

Just try to damage the BSA STAINLESS STEEL MESS KIT ($19.95, scoutshop.org) — it’s not likely. This durable kit comes with everything you need. It’s made from 18/8 stainless steel with a rustproof finish. The set includes a 1-liter pot, 6.3-inch frying pan, 5.9-inch plate and 12-ounce cup. The pot and pan have folding silicone-coated handles, and all the pieces nest together and fit in a mesh stuff sack. Coolest feature: You can use them cooking over a campfire or coals, and the pan can double as a pot lid. 1 lb. 1 oz.

MESS KITS

The term “mess kit” might seem old-fashioned. (Brief history lesson: “Mess” originally referred to a portion of food. As long ago as the 15th century, “mess” also meant a group of four people who sat to eat together.) Today’s camping and backpacking kits for cooking and eating offer a functional, neat modernization for a piece of timeless gear.

Often, the pieces (a cook pot, bowl, cup, etc.) nest together in a compact package that fits easily inside a backpack. These packages are generally lighter weight and more affordable than buying each piece individually. And with a mess kit, before each trip you can pick and choose exactly which pieces of the kit you want/need on the trail. Expect to pay from $10 to $30 for a basic kit.

Want a mess kit that’s environmentally less messy? The LIGHT MY FIRE MESSKIT BIO ($24.95, lightmyfire.com) is made from reusable bio-based plastics. It includes a plate, deep-bottomed bowl, collapsible cup and serrated spork. Everything nests, and the kit serves as a lunchbox. 7.2-by-3.5-by-2.3 inches, 9.1 oz.

BOWLS, SPOONS, CUPS

The bare minimum you need for eating on most outings is a bowl, a spoon and a cup. An unbreakable bowl works well for everything you’ll eat, and a spoon (or spork) will help you shovel almost anything into your face.

Arguably the coolest innovation in backpacking cook kits in years, the SEA TO SUMMIT X-SET 31 ($109.95, seatosummitusa.com) features a 2.8-liter pot, two 22-ounce bowls and two 16.2-ounce mugs, all of which have flexible, food-grade silicone walls that collapse. The entire nested kit measures about an inch and a half tall. The collapsible walls on the pot, bowls and mugs are rigid when assembled, avoiding spills. The mug walls have measurement markings. The pot’s aluminum base cooks evenly. Bowls, mugs and a collapsible pour-over coffee dripper can be purchased separately and nested into the larger kit or carried individually when backpacking. 1 lb. 5 oz.

STOVES

It’s not always best or even possible to cook by campfire. Open fires might be prohibited where you’re camping, maybe dry firewood is nowhere to be found, or perhaps you  just want to have less impact on Mother Earth. That’s where backpacking stoves come in.

We recommend two basic kinds:

Canister (or cartridge) stoves: Small, lightweight and affordable stoves that screw onto canisters of pressurized gas (about $3 each). They’re easy to use and pretty much maintenance-free, but empty canisters aren’t refillable or recyclable and must be packed out.

Liquid-fuel stoves: Compact stoves that use refillable fuel bottles usually containing white gas or propane. They are extremely reliable and work well even in frigid temperatures. Liquid-fuel stoves are generally more expensive, slightly more complicated, and require regular maintenance and cleaning. But they’re also easier on the planet (and, eventually, your wallet) because the fuel bottles are refillable.

The GSI BUGABOO MESS KIT ($29.99, gsioutdoors.com) provides the implements for cooking and eating: a 1-quart pot, 7.5-inch pan, 6-inch polypropylene bowl, 12-ounce polypropylene cup and a gripper — all nest and stow in a mesh stuff sack. The kit’s aluminum disperses heat to cook evenly, and each piece has two layers of nonstick coating for scratch resistance. In all, a good value for a young camper, if a bit heavy for backpacking. 1 lb. 0.7 oz.

COOK POTS

On most outings, pots and pans are shared to save both weight and money. Pots can be made of everything from sturdy stainless steel to aluminum and super-light titanium. Stainless steel is the most durable and heaviest; aluminum is affordable and lightweight but not so durable; and titanium cookware is durable and super-light but very expensive. Prices range from $15 to $100, and some come with a nonstick coating. Always look for a pot that comes with a lid, because it speeds up boiling times and often can be flipped over and used as a frying pan.

For two hungry campers, the MSR 2-PERSON MESS KIT ($34.95, msrgear.com) offers a simple lightweight kit: two plastic insulated mugs, two deep dish bowls and two folding sporks. The components nest and store in a mesh bag, measuring just more than 5-by-5 inches, making the kit ideal for backpacking. 13 oz.

DUTCH OVENS

A camping classic for decades, the Dutch oven is a heavy cast-iron pot with a lid. Though much too heavy for backpacking, this is a must-have for base camps and car-camping trips. Placing the oven over a campfire, you can easily fry fish, cook stews and beans, and bake pies, bread and cobblers. A new Dutch oven must always be seasoned first, rubbed inside with grease or butter to make it nonstick and protect the metal from rusting.

"How to Buy a Mess Kit and Camp Cooking Gear" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Hammock camping looks so fun, right? It can be a comfortable alternative to tent camping for backpacking and drive-in campgrounds. If you’re going to try it, do it right with these expert tips and picks for the best gear.

PROS AND CONS OF HAMMOCK CAMPING

For starters, understand the pros and cons of hammock camping.

PROS:

• If you like being suspended in the air, hammock camping offers super comfort.
• Whether rocky, uneven, muddy or wet, the ground doesn’t matter.
• Done right, sleeping in a hammock can be warm, dry and quiet.
• You get a great view of the stars on a clear night.

CONS:

• Stringing up a hammock requires a pair of sturdy trees an appropriate distance apart, whose trunks are not blocked by thick boughs. This is not easy or possible in all environments.
• A hammock slopes toward the middle in a banana shape, which some people find uncomfortable — especially those who shift a lot in their sleep.
• Your bed sways with every slight movement, which isn’t appealing to everyone.
• In sustained rain, a hammock doesn’t offer shelter for two or more people to stay dry together in camp, and it offers little space for one person to move around if sheltering for hours from rain.

Try sleeping in a hammock in your yard before buying all the gear and making plans to hammock camp on a backpacking trip.

The BSA SINGLE PERSON HAMMOCK WITH STRAPS ($25, scoutshop.org) offers a basic setup that is large enough for most people and versatile enough for backpacking. If you’re experimenting with hammock camping, this is a sure pick at a bargain price. 10 oz.

TIPS FOR SLEEPING IN A HAMMOCK

• Hang the hammock at sitting height no more than 3 feet above the ground and sagging at a 30-degree angle. Don’t make it extremely taut, which can create a confining “cocoon effect” and cause you to flip and fall out of the hammock.
• Lie in it at a diagonal angle to reduce how much the hammock sags and envelops you. This isn’t always possible in the lightest, narrowest hammocks, so know what you’re getting before buying.
• You’ll need insulation from cold air and wind below the hammock, but many air mattresses will crease uncomfortably in a hammock. Find one that fits well, or forego an air mat for an underquilt.
• In wet weather, string the hammock as close to the ground as possible without touching it, and pitch your tarp’s apex close overhead.
• Tie strings, known as “drip lines,” to the strap attaching each end of a hammock to trees, with the two ends of each string hanging down. This way, any rain or water running down the straps drips from those cords rather than running into and soaking your hammock.
• Avoid setting up a hammock on dead trees or below dead branches that could fall on you, and always follow safety rules when hammock camping.

The HENNESSY HAMMOCK SCOUT CLASSIC ($100, hennessyhammock.com), designed for anyone up to 5 feet, 8 inches tall and 200 pounds, comes with an asymmetrical rainfly, making it an exceptional value in a first camping hammock. It has a structural ridge line, which helps it maintain its shape and make it easier to set up correctly. Hennessy stitches its hammocks asymmetrically to create a level bed for more comfortable sleeping. 2 lbs. 6 oz.

HAMMOCK SAFETY RULES

• Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for hanging distances.
• Hang hammocks in secure locations, such as to trees or solid posts. Never attach a hammock to something that could move.
• Fasten and check all knots before getting into a hammock.
• Never “stack” hammocks one above another.
• Hammocks should not be hung so the lowest point is more than 3 feet above the ground. The higher you are, the greater the chance to hurt yourself if you fall.
• Do not hang a hammock above water.
• Never swing or stand in a hammock.
• Do not use a hammock that has frayed or damaged ropes. Use only the manufacturer’s replacement ropes.
• Do not put more weight in a hammock than is recommended by the manufacturer.
• If you are using living trees, take care not to damage the outer bark.

A simple, lightweight nylon hammock like the ENO DOUBLENEST HAMMOCK ($70, scoutshop.org), which is made for two people, provides more comfortable width for one person than many hammocks. It’s lightweight and very packable for backpacking but also made with durable 70-denier nylon. 1 lb. 3 oz.

THE NECESSARY HAMMOCK GEAR

A thin nylon hammock provides virtually no protection from the wind and cold. Since most exposure comes from below, you will need insulation under your hammock for warmth in temperatures below about 70 degrees. That’s generally in the form of a sleeping bag or underquilt, the latter designed to hang below a hammock. A relatively roomy sleeping bag that ventilates at the foot end lets you rig the hammock inside the bag, eliminating the need for an underquilt, thus reducing your system’s weight and cost.

There are underquilts that perform well, like the ENO VULCAN ($175, 1 lb. 14 oz.), made with warm, packable synthetic PrimaLoft insulation and rated to 30-40 degrees, or the REI CO-OP HAMMOCK UNDERQUILT ($100, 1 lb. 10 oz.). The OUTDOOR VITALS AERIE 20 ($150, 2 lbs. 4 oz.) zips over the top of a hammock to fully enclose your nest in a pod system, enhancing warmth and potentially eliminating the need for a bag.

Lastly, a tarp is needed overhead to protect you from rain and, when angled properly, from wind. It also traps some heat from your body underneath it, similar to a tent, effectively providing some insulation.

The SEA TO SUMMIT HAMMOCK TARP ($150, 12 oz.), made with ultralight 15-denier siliconized/PU-coated nylon, uses a five-point design and measures almost 12 feet by more than 9 feet, easily angled for weather protection.

HENNESSY HAMMOCK offers a variety of tarp models ($50-$140), which also can be used alone for tarp camping.

If your hammock does not come with them, get non-stretching hammock straps, which wrap securely around a tree trunk and are adjustable for controlling the height of the hammock off the ground. They also prevent damage to a tree’s bark that can be caused by cord or rope.

If you’re heading out in bug season, you’d better have protective bug netting over your hammock. Some netting is designed for specific hammock models. Some camping hammocks come with integrated bug netting; buy that type if you’re consistently camping in buggy places, but if only occasionally, get a separate bug netting to avoid carrying unnecessary gear.

If backpacking, note the weight and bulk of your entire hammock system’s components, which can run anywhere from about 3-5 pounds or more — a big difference.

Finally, set up your hammock system at home before taking it out in the backcountry. Setup can be very time-consuming the first few times.

The SEA TO SUMMIT SINGLE PRO HAMMOCK BUNDLE ($95, seatosummitusa.com, 1 lb. 4 oz.) includes a durable (70-denier), water-resistant, spacious lightweight hammock with plated-steel buckles, plus 10-foot-long straps. The hammock pairs with the SEA TO SUMMIT HAMMOCK BUG NET ($70, 13 oz.), which has a collapsible spreader pole that creates a spacious interior, plus a wide zippered doorway. And the setup can include Sea to Summit’s ULTRA-SIL NANO TARP PONCHO ($110, 8 oz.), which can be used as a shelter for the hammock or a rain poncho that fits over a large backpack.

"Expert Tips and Picks for Comfortable Hammock Camping" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Keep your campsite bright at night with these great camping lanterns and lighting devices.

BIOLITE BASE LANTERN XL

Described by its maker as the world’s first flatpack lantern, the ultra-packable BIOLITE BASE LANTERN XL ($130) produces 500 lumens, enough light to brighten a spacious campsite. It pairs with a Bluetooth app to open up a host of features like proximity activation, dimming and sleep timers. The two collapsible stainless steel legs give it stability in a variety of situations. Its powerful battery recharges via USB at home or with BioLite solar panels (sold separately), and it will charge four smartphones. And it’s just a bit larger than a deck of cards.

STREAMLIGHT’S THE SIEGE LANTERN

Any chance your light will land in water? Check out STREAMLIGHT’S THE SIEGE LANTERN ($65). It’s waterproof in up to a meter of water — and it floats, thanks to a polymer housing. The rubberized base keeps it from sliding on slippery surfaces. A powerful 540 lumens at the highest of three white LED brightness levels, it lights up a large campsite area and runs for up to 30 hours on high power using three D batteries. The red LED mode includes a flashing SOS signal that will last for 430 hours. It hangs from a D-ring or stands on its flat base. Plus, its USB output charges up to four standard smartphones.

POWER PRACTICAL LUMINOODLE LIGHT ROPE

The POWER PRACTICAL LUMINOODLE LIGHT ROPE shows that camp lighting can be fun. The waterproof, flexible LED strip can be hung, strung, wrapped around or attached to virtually anything, and it simply plugs into a USB battery pack. The 5-foot-long model ($20) emits 180 lumens and the 10-foot version ($30) emits a bright 360 lumens. Hang it from an awning or around a tent like holiday lights. Stuff it inside its white stuff sack, and it functions like a lantern.

BLACK DIAMOND APOLLO LANTERN

For its versatile design, ease of use, durability and brightness, it’s hard to beat the rechargeable BLACK DIAMOND APOLLO LANTERN ($65). Projecting 250 lumens, it illuminates a campsite well enough for nearly any task. It also has a diffuser to soften the light, plus dimming and strobe functions. It will hang from dual metal hooks on its top end or stand on three collapsible legs with rubberized tips that won’t scratch surfaces. Its USB port charges a smartphone, and it can also run on three AA alkaline batteries.

PRINCETON TEC VIZZ

The waterproof, hands-free PRINCETON TEC VIZZ ($53) offers a maximum brightness of 420 lumens, unusually powerful for an ultralight headlamp. It has three dimmable modes, is simple to operate and is compatible with lithium batteries. Its lockout feature prevents you from accidentally turning it on. A good choice for backpackers, climbers, trail runners and backcountry skiers, the Vizz delivers good value if you’re seeking versatility, low weight, less bulk and supreme brightness.

BLACK DIAMOND ZIP LANTERN

Smaller than a smartphone, the BLACK DIAMOND ZIP LANTERN ($30) emits 150 lumens as a lantern or 100 lumens as a focused flashlight. That’s bright enough to light up a tent or an entire camp dining area, and light and compact enough for backpacking. Powered by four AAA batteries, it stands upright or hangs from a rubberized metal hook.

GOAL ZERO LIGHTHOUSE 400 LANTERN AND POWER HUB

Stop throwing away batteries while using an inferior light — step up to the GOAL ZERO LIGHTHOUSE 400 LANTERN AND POWER HUB ($70, scoutshop.org). This LED lantern recharges from a USB outlet in five hours, using solar panels (sold separately) or even using its hand crank, which delivers 10 minutes of power for every minute of cranking. The USB output will charge a smartphone or boost the charge on a tablet. The smart design features two collapsible legs that fold up, while a built-in handle lets you easily carry or hang it.

"7 Great Gadgets for Lighting Up Your Campsite" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

INFLATABLE PILLOW

A few breaths inflate the TREKOLOGY ALUFT 2.0 ULTRALIGHT INFLATING PILLOW ($16, trekology.com), a comfy support for your head and neck. Sleeping on an inflatable pillow feels like you’re on an air mattress. It can be deflated and rolled into a 5-inch-long bag, perfect for backpacking, especially since it weighs less than 3 ounces. To avoid slipping, the pillow features rubber dots on the back, along with a stretchy strap that can wrap around your sleeping pad, holding your pillow in place.

SPORK AND KNIFE

The spork. It’s a fork and spoon combined — an inventive eating tool. But what if it had a knife, too? Introducing the KA-BAR SPORK/KNIFE ($9, kabar.com). It’s a nearly 7-inch-long heavy-duty thermoplastic spork with a fair-sized scoop. Pulling the handle reveals the 2.5-inch serrated plastic blade, strong enough to cut your food. Now you have a complete eating set in one handy utensil.

SURVIVAL BRACELET

I love paracord; you love paracord; we all love paracord. So does The Atomic Bear company, which offers the COBRA SURVIVAL BRACELET ($10 for a set of two, theatomicbear.com). This adjustable wristband is made of 12 feet of paracord and also features an embedded compass (the bracelet must be unbuckled to use this so that metal from the fire starter doesn’t interfere with it), emergency whistle and fire starter. The fire starter component is especially cool, with a Ferro rod as part of the buckle. Make sure to scrape the protective paint layer before using the Ferro rod. One safety note: Be careful when buckling the bracelet, as the small detachable blade for the fire starter is exposed when the bracelet is open.

ROASTING STICKS

It’s frustrating when your perfectly roasted marshmallow slides off your stick into the campfire. That won’t happen when you use a WOLF’EM STICK ($13, wolfem.com). The forks on these sticks point backward, so gravity doesn’t steal your food. The sticks are also equipped with a rotary handle, making it easy to evenly roast hot dogs and marshmallows. A special attachment is designed for making biscuit cups. Cool bonus: This product was designed by Eagle Scout brothers Tanner and Spencer Harrison of South Jordan, Utah.

BUFF HEADWEAR

A buff might seem like just a piece of cloth, but it has so many functions. BUFF’S JUNIOR COOLNET UV+ MULTIFUNCTIONAL HEADWEAR ($22, buffusa.com) can be worn as a face mask, headband, beanie and more — 12 different ways in all — protecting your face and neck from the sun. BUFF’s microfiber headwear is made primarily from recycled water bottles and comes in dozens of designs. It’s UPF 50 and has been approved and recommended by the Skin Cancer Foundation. Watch all the ways you can wear a buff at go.scoutlife.org/buff

SURVIVAL KITS

Inside the durable aluminum VSSL CAMP SUPPLIES ADVENTURE KIT ($129, vsslgear.com) are survival supply tins, each filled with a selection of purpose-built gear: first-aid supplies, fishing tackle, water purification tablets, waterproof matches and tinder. The kit is also equipped with a powerful flashlight with four settings, including an emergency SOS signal mode. You’ll probably want to pack a separate, more complete first-aid kit, but the beauty of this product is that you can customize it, filling it with the tins you want. A VSSL CACHE ($60, vsslgear.com) is an empty kit for doing just that.

"6 Inventive Gadgets to Make Camping More Fun" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

This 2-pound do-it-yourself wilderness survival kit could save your life for at least three days in the wild.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

We suggest storing these items in a single zip-close bag.

STAY SHARP: You should have a pocketknife during most outings, anyway, but never go into the wild without a dependable, easy-to-use blade.

TAKE COVER: Even in wilderness survival situations, you need a good shelter. A tube tent is a great lightweight option that’s easy to pack and very affordable.

SLEEP WARM: It’s not a long-term option, but an emergency sleeping bag will keep you warm and takes up only a few square inches of space.

FIRE SOURCE AND TINDER: Store fresh strike anywhere matches in a waterproof case to get a blaze going fast. Throw in a handful of dryer lint or petroleum-jelly-covered cotton balls as tinder.

SIGNALING: Get the attention of rescuers with a signal mirror and high-quality whistle.

INSECT CONTROL: A pack of insect-repellent towelettes takes up far less space than a spray bottle.

SHINE BRIGHTLY: A small LED flashlight will provide plenty of visibility in unknown environments. Don’t forget fresh batteries, too.

WRAP IT UP: We suggest wrapping a length of duct tape (a few feet) around your flashlight handle.

DRINK UP: Safe water is scarce in the wild. Make the water you do find safer to consume with a personal water filter and potable water tablets.

A survival kit does not replace the 10 Scout Outdoor Essentials. Learn more at go.scoutlife.org/packinglist

"How to Make a DIY Wilderness Survival Kit" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

ALL ABOUT ACTION CAMERAS

An action camera is a lightweight, hands-free digital video camera capable of producing high-quality, wide-angle video in almost any outdoor environment. That means it must be impact-resistant, dust-proof and waterproof, and must operate in a wide range of temperatures.

When shopping, consider how the camera’s size and shape work with how you intend to use it, including where it will be mounted or carried, whether it has to fit into a confined space, whether you can see the cam during operation (you can’t if it’s on your helmet) and your desired angle of view.

For pure value, it’s hard to beat the SJCAM SJ6 Legend ($159, sjcam.com). It shoots stabilized 4K video for more than an hour on one full charge, and features built-in Wi-Fi, an external mic connection and a 2-inch touchscreen. The tiny (1.6-by-2.3-by-0.8 inches, 2.9 oz.) plastic body has a standard tripod mount — unusual on action cams — and comes with a protective case, outfitted with a GoPro mount, that’s waterproof to about 100 feet. The SJCAM Zone app gives you control of settings and functions from your smartphone.

FEATURES AND ACCESSORIES

VIEWFINDER OR LCD SCREEN: Compact action cams often lack a viewfinder or an LCD screen. If you want a camera with a built-in screen, make sure it’s bright and clear enough for easy viewing in sunshine or underwater. Similarly, good audio quality is rare, although some high-end models have an external microphone jack.

WI-FI CAPABILITY: Wi-Fi capability enables the easy upload of video to a computer or the internet, live streaming, some accessory apps and shooting remotely via smartphone. This last feature is useful when using an action cam that lacks an LCD screen for playback.

BATTERY LIFE: Even the camera with the longest battery life will last only a few hours, so if you’re on a multi-day backpacking trip, you’ll need to buy additional rechargeable batteries or a solar charging device. Keep in mind that battery life between charges is shortened by shooting at higher resolution (especially 4K) and frame rates, having Wi-Fi turned on and temperatures well below freezing.

The GoPro Hero7 White ($200, shop.gopro.com) might be today’s definitive action cam. At just 2.5-by-1.8-by-1.1 inches and 3.3 ounces, it shoots rich video and 10MP still photos in single and burst modes. Features include a waterproof housing, a touch screen and voice control. It’s waterproof to 33 feet and has a battery life of up to 90 minutes. The subscription service GoPro Plus adds video stabilization, pro-quality photos and auto upload to the cloud.

ACCESSORIES AND MOUNTS: Look beyond camera models to each brand’s entire line of products and accessories, including third-party accessories. GoPro has the largest reach in that area.

SIZE AND WEIGHT: Action cams are designed to be worn on a helmet or mounted to equipment, so size and weight are key. Go with the smallest, lightest model you can afford.

FIELD OF VIEW: Most action cams shoot wide-angle video. Just how wide is noted in degrees (for example, 160 degrees). The larger the number, the wider and larger the field of view and the more action you’ll be able to capture.

You can one-up the Hero7 White with the GoPro Hero7 Black ($400, 4.1 oz., shop.gopro.com), which features everything found on the Hero7 White but adds 4K video, 12MP stills, higher frame rates and GPS.

VIDEO RESOLUTION: In general, the better the video quality, the more expensive the camera. Right now, 4K is the highest resolution possible on an action cam. 1080p and 720p are considered high definition.

WATER-RESISTANT AND WATERPROOF: It’s important to pick a camera that can stand up to the weather. Some action cams are water-resistant on their own, while others require a special waterproof case called a “housing” to be waterproof. If you’ll just be in the rain and snow, one of the cams that doesn’t require an extra housing might be the best bet. If you’ll be shooting underwater, you need one with a waterproof housing.

VIDEO VS. STILL PHOTOS: Action cams specialize in shooting videos. Although they can also capture still photos, don’t expect super-high-quality images. The quality of photos is indicated by the number of megapixels (MP). In general, the more MP, the sharper and clearer the photos.

On a tight budget? The Wimius L1 ($73, wimius.com) shoots good-quality 4K video at 24 fps, in 1080p at 60fps or at 720p at 120 fps with a 170-degree lens. It has built-in Wi-Fi, fisheye correction, image stabilization, an LCD and a waterproof housing that comes with a water-resistant case for diving to about 100 feet. Plus, it corrects color distortion of shooting underwater.

MEMORY CARDS: All action cams record videos onto small removable memory cards. Most cams use tiny microSD cards, while some still use postage stamp–size SD cards. Either way, buy a couple of extra memory cards so you’ll have plenty of space for your videos. All cards are sized in gigabytes (GB). The higher the GB number, the more space you’ll have — and the more expensive the card will be.

"How to Buy an Action Camera" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

JACK LINK’S

When it comes to fueling up on the go, it’s tough to beat JACK LINK’S, the Official Protein Snack of the Boy Scouts of America. All of its products are ready to eat, pack plenty of protein, and are low in calories and fat. We suggest the classic 2.85-ounce bags of jerky, including tasty flavors like Korean BBQ, teriyaki beef, sriracha and breakfast bacon (starting at $4 each; jacklinks.com).

GOOD TO-GO MEALS

How many of your backcountry meals have come from a graduate of the French Culinary Institute in New York City? That’s the founder of GOOD TO-GO MEALS ($7 each; goodto-go.com), whose dinners require only boiling water to prepare a 700- to 800-calorie meal of pad thai, herbed mushroom risotto, Mexican quinoa bowl, smoked three-bean chili or any of several other offerings. One thing to be mindful of: They’re high in sodium.

MUNK PACK

The convenience, flavor and nutritional value of MUNK PACK OATMEAL FRUIT SQUEEZES ($14/pack of 6; munkpack.com) and PROTEIN COOKIES ($15/pack of 6) make them ideal for anything from bike rides to multiday backpacking trips. With 110 calories and four grams of fiber, the gluten-free squeeze tubes come in tasty flavors like blueberry acai flax oatmeal and raspberry coconut oatmeal. The cookies come in peanut butter chocolate chip, double dark chocolate and more.

HONEY STINGER

HONEY STINGER ORGANIC ENERGY CHEWS and ORGANIC WAFFLES ($22/box of 15; honeystinger.com) are great options for longer hikes. Each lightweight waffle delivers up to 160 calories and up to 21 grams of carbohydrates in a thin-cookie-size wafer, in popular flavors like chocolate, vanilla and caramel. The sweet ORGANIC ENERGY CHEWS ($28.99/box of 12), in strawberry, fruit smoothie, pomegranate passion fruit and other flavors, are ideal for slamming on the trail.

CLIF BARS

CLIF ENERGY BARS ($18/pack of 12; clifbar.com) have expanded from basic flavors to upgraded tastes like sweet and salty caramel toffee, blueberry crisp and cool mint chocolate. CLIF BLOKS ENERGY CHEWS ($3/each) come in sweet flavors like citrus, mountain berry and salted watermelon. And the CLIF KID ZBARS ($14/pack of 18) feature caramel chocolate, chocolate brownie and iced lemon cookie.

GREENBELLY MEALS

What if you could eat an entire nutritious, satisfying meal without any more effort than tearing off a wrapper? That’s what you get with GREENBELLY MEALS ($6-$7/meal; greenbelly.co). These ready-to-eat 650-calorie bars are made of tasty all-natural ingredients, and each has one-third of the daily requirements for six core nutrients: calories, carbohydrates, protein, sodium, fat and fiber. Bonus: There’s no prep or cleanup — just be sure to pack out your trash.

"Fuel Your Body With These 6 Nutritious and Delicious Trail Snacks" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

HOW IMPORTANT IS WEIGHT WHEN CHOOSING A TENT?

A backpacking classic that remains a good value, the 2017 two-door REI Half Dome 2 Plus Tent ($199, rei.com) pitches quickly and easily (even on dark, rainy nights), thanks to a hubbed-pole system, and it holds up in wind as well as most competitors. It boasts a roomy 38 square feet of floor space and a 42-inch peak height, plus vertical walls that create more headroom. Tradeoff: At a little more than 5 pounds, it’s almost twice the weight of the lightest two-person freestanding tents, and its’ bulky to pack. 5 lbs. 1 oz.

Considering all the hours and trail miles you’ll spend carrying your tent, you should pay careful attention to its weight. Look for the lightest gear that performs the way you want it to — and that you can afford.

For example, an ultralight tent is a great pick to keep weight down, but it might not be as spacious or as strong in wind as you need. Be sure you understand the tradeoffs of each kind of tent and get what you need.

When you want a lightweight tent that won’t tap into your savings too much, look at the Marmot Tungsten UL 2P ($299, marmot.com). Barely north of 3 pounds, this two-door tent delivers more floor area than almost any comparable freestanding, three-season, two-person tent — and costs less than virtually all competitors in the category. Pre-bent poles maximize headroom, color coding makes pitching a snap, large doorways make coming and going easy, and lots of mesh ventilates the interior well — even with the doors sealed tightly. 3 lbs. 4 oz.

Consider questions like:

Will you typically spend most of each day on the trail? Consider opting for a lightweight tent over one with luxurious extras.

Will you be spending most of your day in camp? Think about comfort and convenience features like gear pockets, extra doors or a cool design.

Will there be severe weather? Go for a tent that will keep you dry in rain and stand up to extreme wind.

In the exclusive club of freestanding tents with two doors and vestibules that weigh fewer than 3 pounds, the Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL 2 ($450, bigagnes.com) stands out for its balance between low weight, good living space and ventilation, and strength. The secret lies in a 40-inch peak height, 88-inch length, large doorways and a hubbed-pole structure that creates steep walls, making the tent feel roomier than its 29 square feet. 2 lbs. 12 oz.

LOOK AT THE TENT’S DETAILS

The first step in gear shopping is reading reviews and looking at products online. Tent specs can tell you a lot when you know what they mean. Here are some frequently used keywords.

Capacity: Backpacking tents usually range from one- to four-person models. Be careful; sizes aren’t universal. You and your buddy might not sleep comfortably in a two-person tent.

Square footage: This number will tell you how much interior space you’ll have. For instance, less than 28 square feet might feel snug in a two-person tent, while more than 30 should offer some elbow room.

For a family hitting the trail on multiday hikes, there’s hardly a better value than The North Face Talus 4 ($299, thenorthface.com). With two doors and vestibules that will store boots and mid-sized packs, this freestanding four-person shelter has durable but lightweight poles and a fully seam-taped canopy and floor — and weighs fewer than 7 pounds. The 50-inch peak height affords plenty of headroom. Tradeoff: The 50 square feet of floor space is a tight fit for four. 6 lbs. 10 oz.

Peak height: Less than 40 inches might mean taller people will brush their head against the ceiling.

Vestibules: Not only will these porch-like sheltered areas double as storage space for wet gear and packs, but they also provide the best design feature for preventing condensation inside: cross-ventilation.

Freestanding: This makes it easier to pitch (and shake out dirt), but can also add weight. Remember that many non-freestanding tents are just as sturdy when properly staked and guyed out.

If car camping in pleasant weather is the plan, there’s no reason to spend a bundle on a tent. The freestanding four-person Kelty Discovery 4 ($150, kelty.com) sets up easily with two classic dome-style crossing poles and clips, has a generous 56 square feet of floor space and offers a 58-inch peak height. Unlike many inexpensive, big family-camping tents, it has a seam-sealed, full-coverage rainfly — so you won’t get wet if it rains — and it’s reasonably light and compact for this category. Tradeoff: It has only one door. 10 lbs. 7 oz.

GET INSIDE THE TENT

Just like you shouldn’t buy boots or a backpack without trying them on first, be sure to get inside a tent before buying it. After doing some research and creating a short list of your preferred tent models, visit stores that carry them. Pitch each tent. Sit and lie down inside them — ideally with your tentmate(s) — to test it.

The Sierra Designs Sweet Suite 2 ($370, sierradesigns.com) is the ideal combination of lightweight and roomy. The semi-freestanding tent’s unique Y-pole setup means the tent provides better-than-average interior space — nearly 30 square feet and a peak height of 40 inches. There are also vestibules in front of both doors, offering another 18 square feet of exterior storage space for wet or stinky gear. Even better: All this weighs only 3 lbs. 10 oz.

"How to Buy the Right Backpacking Tent" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Bringing your poofy pillow from home isn’t cool. An inflatable portable pillow is. My favorite is the COCOON ULTRALIGHT AIR CORE PILLOW ($31, cocoon.at), which has an inflatable core surrounded by a layer of synthetic filling.

Rock out — or not — with the removable rocking feet on the HELINOX CHAIR TWO ROCKER ($180, bigagnes.com). Redesigned to feature a deeper seat, taller back and single shock-corded pole structure, this lightweight camp chair will make you think you’re rocking away in your living room.

You know the saying that everything tastes better when cooked over a campfire? This includes popcorn. The ROME POPCORN POPPER ($31, romeindustries.com) makes 3 quarts of popcorn, and its baked-enamel cooking surface makes it safe to use with a campfire. The long wooden handle doesn’t heat up when held over an open fire.

Keep sharing your experiences all weekend long thanks to an extra boost from the GOAL ZERO FLIP 10 POWER PACK ($25, scoutshop.org). This recharging unit fits in the palm of your hand, weighs a mere 2.5 ounces and reliably recharges one phone, headlamp, GPS or other small device. Recharge the FLIP at home or connect the unit to solar panels like the Goal Zero Nomad 7 (sold separately).

Get a great night’s rest on the lofty KLYMIT STATIC V ($60, klymit.com). The mat offers 2.5 inches of thickness, its V-shaped air tubes prevent flat spots and the side rails keep you from bouncing off. And at $60, the Static V is an excellent value.

Kick off your hiking boots after a long day on the trail and sink your feet into the super-comfy KEEN UNEEK O2s ($90, keenfootwear.com). Sure, a pair of $20 Crocs can do the job, but the Uneek O2s elevate your average camp shoe to a running-shoe feel. The cord design covers your toes, keeps your feet cool and dries quickly.

LAMZAC THE ORIGINAL ($60, fatboyusa.com) might be as much fun to inflate as it is to lounge on. A giant nylon ripstop sack with a roll-top closure inflates by swinging it through the air. It transforms into an outdoor couch suitable for two people. Deflate and fold it up for easy storage.

All prices are MSRP — manufacturer’s suggested retail price. You can often find better deals in stores.

"Bring Comfort to Your Campsite With This Great Gear" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

What the outdoors lacks in electrical outlets it more than makes up for with the biggest, most reliable and most widely available energy source ever discovered: the sun.

Solar products help you harness that power, even in otherwise juice-free zones. And, better yet, solar power does not contribute to pollution.

SOLAR CHARGER BUYING GUIDE

With all of the cool outdoor gadgets on the market today, keeping your gear charged can be a challenge on a prolonged journey in the wilderness. Here’s where a solar-charging system comes in to play.

These sun-savvy devices create energy from the sun’s rays, powering your gear no matter where you are. These devices perform optimally on sunny days of summer. Solar-charging devices become largely ineffective under cloudy skies.

CONSIDER THESE FACTORS BEFORE CHOOSING A SOLAR CHARGER:

• Size and Weight: Are you carrying it far, such as on a backpacking trek? Prioritize size and weight.

• Charging Power: Will you have reliable, constant sunlight? Or will you experience frequent clouds? Prioritize charging power.

• Batter and Ports: Do you have more than one device to charge? Prioritize a unit with a battery and multiple charging ports.

• Toughness: Are you rough on gear outdoors? Prioritize durable construction and water resistance.

• What You’re Charging: Devices — even different phone models — require varying amounts of time to recharge. Choose a solar recharger with the power for your device(s).

SOLAR CHARGERS

At less than 13 ounces and folding up to 11 x 6.3 x 0.7 inches, the two-panel Anker PowerPort Solar Lite ($50, anker.com) is simple to use, reliable, durable and small enough to carry into the backcountry.

With deployed dimensions of 18.1 x 11 inches, it’s one of the most powerful solar chargers on the market, delivering up to 2.1 amps in strong, direct sunlight. It can charge an iPhone in five hours or less (newer Android phones require more power) and an iPad in about eight hours. With two ports, it can charge two devices at the same time.

CONS: It’s not waterproof, and the panels do not come with a storage battery, meaning you must plug in your devices while the panel is exposed to sunshine. You can, however, purchase an Anker battery pack separately.

The smartly designed and solidly built foldable Goal Zero Venture 30 Solar Recharging Kit ($170, goalzero.com) has two water-resistant Nomad 7 panels that flip open to charge the Venture 30 battery. Direct sunlight will fully charge the battery in eight to 16 hours (or five hours plugged in to an electrical outlet), but the battery provides the convenience of recharging devices anywhere, anytime — such as at night in your tent.

The major perk of this kit is that the battery can simultaneously charge up to two devices with 4.8 amps each, which is impressively quicker than its competition. A fully charged battery will charge up to three smartphones, one tablet, fi ve POV cameras or five to 10 headlamps. That’s a lot of storage.

CONS: The kit weighs about 1.5 pounds and is 9 x 6.5 x 1.5 inches, so it’s the heaviest and bulkiest option in this guide. And because of its impressive storage capacity, the battery can take much longer — nine hours of sunlight on average — to fully charge than other competitors.

Rolling up like an ancient scroll to just 7.8 x 1.6 inches and weighing less than 5 ounces, the waterproof PowerFilm LightSaver Portable USB Solar Charger/Battery Bank ($98.97, amazon.com) could be a game-changer for people who carry electronics deep into the backcountry. The LightSaver’s military-grade solar panel unrolls to 7.8 x 18.5 inches, and can hang by a strap off a backpack.

Precharge your LightSaver at home (three hours using an electrical outlet) or charge it in the field for six hours of full sunlight. It can charge a smartphone at least once via its single USB port.

CON: While it’s a space-saver, the LightSaver isn’t as powerful as other devices, delivering 1 amp from its USB port. This means it could take three hours or longer to get a full charge for your smartphone. (Which isn’t a big deal since the battery lets you charge overnight.)

RECHARGEABLE GEAR

Solar-charging systems are not the only gear that harness the power of the sun. Many devices — from phones to headlamps to speakers — are designed specifically with rechargeable batteries, allowing you to get an extra boost in the field when needed.

Here are some of the Gear Guy’s favorite solar rechargeable items for avid explorers.

Keep your load light and get double function with the rechargeable 3.4-ounce Black Diamond Ember Power Light Flashlight ($50, blackdiamondequipment.com). The swipe-activated TriplePower LED throws 150 lumens of light more than 100 feet, and the unit charges electronic devices via a USB port, providing about 1.5 recharges for a smartphone (charging time varies among phones). Its lithium polymer batter recharges from an electrical outlet or a laptop in about eight hours. Plus, a lock mode prevents accidentally draining the battery.

The Nite Ize Radiant 250 Rechargeable Headlamp ($50, niteize.com) weighs a mere 3.2 ounces, but it throws a 250-lumen beam about 300 feet in its brightest mode — making it more powerful than most ultralight headlamps and cheaper than some of the best rechargeable headlamps. Powered by a lithium-polymer battery, it has red and white LEDs with five modes: spot high and low, flood high and low, and red. Operation is simple, and burn time ranges from four hours on spot high to 43 hours on flood low. Includes micro USB charging cable.

The Goal Zero Rock Out 2 Rechargeable Speaker ($50, goalzero.com) delivers more than 20 hours of rich sound for listening to music on your phone, laptop or MP3 player. It replenishes its charge within two hours via a USB port or within two to four hours plugged in to Goal Zero’s Nomad 7 Solar Panel ($80). The weatherproof Rock Out 2 Solar Rechargeable Speaker ($100) upgrades with Bluetooth and an integrated solar panel that recharges itself in about eight hours of sunlight, keeping the music playing all day and for up to 10 hours after sunset. It also recharges in two hours via USB from an electrical outlet.

With a small solar panel on its top surface, the 7.5-ounce Etekcity LED Dual-Charge Solar Lantern ($18, etekcity.com) is a simple, efficient, lightweight and cheap option for camping and backpacking (although it’s a little bulky for the latter). Projecting 360-degree light on high (46 lux, for campsites) and low (25 lux, for a tent), it can hang from a foldaway handle or stand on its base. It shines continuously for up to eight hours, but it’s so efficient that I’ve turned it on after storing it for weeks in a dark basement. It comes with a USB cord for conventional recharging.

This solar-powered grill will have your friends lining up for the hot dogs you bake in as few as 10 minutes with the GoSun Dogger (available for $79 preorder at gosunstove.com). A vacuum tube holds two dogs (or other kabob-type meals) and evenly disperses heat that’s magnified by reflectors. It has an insulated lid with a food-grade silicone seal, and GoSun says it works even on cloudy days. Ketchup and mustard sold separately.

"How to Buy the Right Solar Charger" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

It looks like walking on water. Kinda feels like it too. Stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) is one of the most fun things you can do on the water, and it’s one of the fastest-growing outdoor sports.

Though SUP’s roots are in surfing, the majority of SUP boards are now used for flatwater touring and fitness paddling. You’ll also find SUPs being used to race, run whitewater rivers, fish and even to reach out-of-the-way camp spots. Whatever way you wanna paddle, your Gear Guy brings you everything you need to know about SUP.

Boardworks Squid: ($599, boardworkssurf.com) This 9-footer is the best soft-top SUP we’ve tested. It has a solid EPS foam core with a durable soft-foam top ( a lot like the foam in Crocs shoes) and a slick skin bottom. It’s a nice all-around shape for guys up to about 120 lbs.

THE BOARD

There are two main shapes/types of SUPs: (1) all-arounders that look like oversized surfboards and (2) longer, more slender displacement hull-style boards with somewhat pointed noses that are best for long-distance touring, fitness and racing.

All SUPs come with a hollowed-out handle on the deck roughly in the center of the board for easier carrying.

A single fin or cluster of three or four fins on the bottom keeps your SUP moving in the right direction.

Bic Dura-Tec Kids Original: ($550, bicsup.com) The most durable SUP here, the 8’4″ Dura-Tec is made with a sturdy plastic shell designed to take a beating. The shape makes it a good all-arounder for touring or surfing. Also available in lengths from 9’4″ to 11’4″.

SUP SIZING

SUPs range from 14-foot touring boards to 8-foot surf-specific boards and everything in between. Longer and narrower boards are the fastest and best for long-distance touring. The wider the board, the more stable it is. Shorter boards are more maneuverable and often better for surfing or running rapids. There are also some youth-size boards that are lighter weight, shorter and narrower for easier paddling.

Surftech 12’6″ Saber Coretech: ($1,199, surftech.com) The fastest board here, the Saber is a displacement hull-style touring board. At 12’6″ long and 31″ wide, it might be a bit large for smaller paddlers, but it’s the perfect SUP for long-distance touring and overnight trips.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF SUP CONSTRUCTION

Soft-tops are made of a lightweight foam core wrapped in a soft rubber-like covering. These SUPs are lightweight and durable and a good choice for beginners.

Hard boards are generally made of EPS foam covered in fiberglass and hardened epoxy. They are lightweight, relatively durable and higher performance than a soft-top. Some hard boards are made of EPS foam wrapped in hard plastic, making them heavier but nearly indestructible.

Inflatable SUPs fit inside a bag for easy storage and travel and can be pumped up in about seven minutes. While it’s not as rigid as a hard board, a good-quality inflatable SUP can be very stable.

SIC Recon Air-Glide 9.9: ($1,149, sicmaui.com) Inflatable SUPs used to be floppy, but this 9’9″ one from SIC is rock-solid. At 30″ wide and 6″ thick, it’s plenty stable and comes with a three-piece adjustable paddle, pump and backpack carry case. Also available in 10’4″ and 11’4″ lengths.

THE PADDLE

A SUP paddle looks like a canoe paddle with a really long shaft. The main difference is the SUP paddle blade is bent forward slightly.

Always paddle with the bent angle of the paddle facing away from you. When paddling on the right side of the board, hold the shaft in your right hand and the handle grip in your left. Do the opposite when paddling on the left side of your board.

Paddles come in many different constructions, from super-lightweight and stiff carbon-fiber models for racing and touring to more affordable paddles with thermoplastic blades that are heavier but ultra-durable.

Werner Fiji: ($109, wernerpaddles.com) The most affordable paddle here, the Fiji has a fiberglass shaft and plastic blade reinforced with fiberglass. An adjustable model can be had for $139. 28 oz.

PADDLE SIZING

Your paddle should be about 4 to 6 inches taller than you. SUP surfers generally prefer shorter paddles. While many paddles have fixed length, an adjustable paddle is a good choice if you’ll be sharing your SUP with friends and family.

Kialoa Aloha Adjustable: ($149, kialoa.com) The best, most durable adjustable paddles we’ve tested are from Kialoa. This one has a fiberglass shaft and plastic blade. A smaller youth version called the Keiki II is also $149. 31 oz.

NO LIFE JACKET, NO SUP!

Everyone who gets on a SUP needs a life jacket with a whistle attached. Safety Afloat guidelines apply to all SUP activities in Scouting.

THE LEASH

All SUPs have an attachment on the tail of the board for a leash. Wrap the leash around your ankle with the Velcro cuff and attach the other end to your SUP. This keeps your board within easy reach when you fall off.

Coiled leashes are best for most types of paddling because the tight coils keep the leash on the deck of your board rather than dragging behind in the water.

Straight leashes are best for SUP surfing. If you’re whitewater SUPing, NEVER attach the leash to your ankle because it can be a drowning risk. Instead, attach the leash to your life jacket with a quick-release clip.

DaKine SUP Leash: ($28-$32, dakine.com) A very durable and strong urethane leash that’s coiled to prevent it from dragging in the water behind your SUP. Also available in a straight leash for surfing.

GET UP, STAND UP

It’s best to stand in the middle of the board (near the carry handle) with your feet parallel and about hip-width apart. If you have gear strapped to the front of your board, shift your weight farther back toward the tail of the SUP.

The easiest way to get started is to first kneel on the board with the paddle placed horizontally across the deck in front of you. Apply even pressure to your hands as you slowly pull one foot, and then the other, under your body to stand up. Once standing, you can use your paddle to brace and balance.

If you’re feeling wobbly, don’t stare at your feet. Instead, keep your eyes fixed on a spot on the horizon.

Before you try it, be sure to find out about SUP from someone knowledgeable — and have fun!

Adventure Paddleboarding 8’4″ All Rounder: ($874, surfindustries.com) Another good all-arounder shape, this SUP has a foam core with a hard epoxy outer shell that makes it light-weight but performance-oriented. It’s rated for weights up to about 145 lbs. but is also available in bigger sizes from 9’8″ to 11’6″.

"Stand-Up Paddleboarding Buying Guide" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

One of the best things about skateboarding is that there are no rules, no scoreboards and no refs or coaches telling you how you need to do it. Skating is a totally individual sport. You can do it whenever you want (except at night), however you want. Oh, yeah, and it’s lots of fun, too. And getting started is easy. All you need to do is pick the right gear.

BOARD TYPES

There are two main styles of boards: longboards for cruising around and shorter boards for riding at skateparks and doing tricks on ramps or the street.

Birdhouse Tony Hawk Full Skull Complete ($81; birdhouseskateboards.com): Deck is 7.75″ x 30″ with Birdhouse trucks and wheels.

WHERE TO SHOP

The best place to buy a skateboard is your local skate shop. It will have a wide selection of boards and, most important, knowledgeable salespeople who can steer you in the right direction. You can find cheaper deals at superstores, but when it comes to skateboards, you get what you pay for.

Blind Matte OG Mini Complete ($81; blindskateboards.com): The smallest deck here, it’s 7″ x 27.75: with Slant trucks and 51 mm Blind wheels (95a).

QUALITY

For the most part, a really cheap skateboard (say, $30-$40) will be harder to ride. Cheap boards are built from much lower-quality parts, are heavier and less durable, and the wheels won’t spin as smoothly.

Powell Peralta Ripper Purple Complete ($84; powell-peralta.com): Deck is 8″ x 32″ with Skate One trucks and 53 mm wheels (99a).

PRICE

If you’re just starting out, your best bet is to buy a “complete” from a skate shop. Instead of piecing together the deck, wheels and trucks, etc. one by one, completes are fully assembled, ready-to-ride boards. They are usually built with good-quality, entry-level components and provide big savings.

Most street completes cost $80-$100; longboard completes are $100-$150. If you were to put together those same parts on your own, you would likely spend at least 30 to 40 percent more. As you get more advanced, you’ll probably want to upgrade your parts individually and customize your own board.

Z-Flex Kicktail Longboard Complete ($110; zflex.com): The most affordable cruiser option here, the deck is 9.25″ x 38″ with ABEC 7 bearings and 69 mm Z-Smooth wheels (78a).

SKATE DECK

Most skateboard decks (the part you stand on) are made of seven layers of plywood glued together. Street decks are all pretty similar, with the same general shape, a length of 30–32.5 inches and a width of 7.5″–8.25″. Smaller boards are more maneuverable and better for tricks, while wider boards are more stable and easier to carve in ramps and pools or while cruising the streets.

The biggest difference here is the graphics on the bottom. Pick a shape you like with graphics that fit your personality. Or buy a blank deck and draw your own designs. Most decks cost $50-$60; more for longboards.

Canary 22″ Penny Painted Fade ($120; pennyskateboards.com): This compact board has a plastic deck that’s 22″ long with aluminum Penny trucks and 59 mm wheels (83a).

TRUCKS

The axles holding your wheels to the board are called “trucks.” Some are lighter weight or more durable (you’ll pay extra for that), but for the most part, they are all pretty similar.

Size-wise, you want them to be about the same width as your deck. For a street board, 139 millimeter-wide trucks are probably the most common. Tighten the kingpin bolt on the trucks for flip tricks, and loosen it for carving.

Expect to pay $15-$30 per truck, and stick with quality brand names like Independent, Thunder and Venture.

Santa Cruz Pinhand Cruzer ($173; nhsfunfactory.com): Deck is 9.25″ x 34.83″ with Krux 6.0 trucks and 60 mm wheels (78a).

WHEELS

The wheels are your direct connection to the ground, so if you’re going to splurge, buy nice wheels. There are two things to keep in mind: size and hardness.

The bigger the wheels, the faster they go. For street skating, wheels between 49 mm and 54 mm are a good start. For ramps and skate parks, some skaters like to go with slightly larger wheels. Longboards generally have wheels from 65 mm to 70 mm.

The hardness (or durometer) of the wheel determines how your board will ride. The softer the wheel, the more grip it has and the more forgiving it will be. For instance, a 78a–87a is best if you’re riding around rough neighborhood streets with rocks and cracks. Most longboards use softer wheels like this. If you plan on riding at skate parks and ramps or want to do tricks, look for wheels rated 95a–99a. They are harder and faster, but still have plenty of grip.

You’ll spend $25-$40 for a set of four wheels, slightly more for longboard wheels.

Sector 9 Highline ($125; sector9.com): Deck is 8″ x 34.5″ with Gullwing 8.0 Mission trucks, ABEC 5 bearings and 64 mm Nineball wheels (78a).

BEARINGS

Your wheels are mounted to the trucks with bearings, small round metal pieces that slide inside the center of your wheels. Most bearings are rated with an ABEC number (from 1 to 12) that tells you the quality of the bearing itself. The higher the number, the higher quality and faster the bearing
(and your wheel). Look for bearings rated ABEC 5 and up or just choose Bones REDS Bearings ($18; bonesbearings.com), which are the industry standard and the most popular bearing by far. Most bearings cost about $15-$25 for a set of eight (you need two per wheel).

Triple 8 Saver Series 3-Pack Box ($30-$35; triple8.com): Protect yourself with Kneesaver, Wristsaver and Elbowsaver pads made with EVA foam padding and hard polycarbonate coverage caps.

DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT THESE

No matter what kind of skateboard you get, remember to always wear full protective gear when you’re using it!

• Helmet
• Elbow pads
• Knee pads

Check out BL‘s helmet buying guide to learn more.

Triple 8 Dual Certified Brainsaver ($40-$45; triple8.com): This helmet has an ABS plastic outer shell with EPS liner and comfortable fit pads that are removable and washable. Dual certified for both skateboarding and bicycling (CPSC/ASTM certified).

Pro-Tec Classic Matte Rasta Green – Certified ($50; protecbrand.com): This helmet design has been a classic for the past 40 years, but this one is updated with a dual-certified EPS foam liner (CPSC/CE certified).

"How to buy a skateboard" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

FITBIT ZIP ($59.95, fitbit.com)

This tiny water-resistant band tracks steps, calories and active minutes.

UNICEF KID POWER BAND ($39.99, unicefkidpower.org)

The more you move, the more you help. Thanks to the United Nations Children’s Fund, your exercise will be converted into donations for malnourished children across the globe.

IBITZ ($34.99, ibitz.com)

This pedometer syncs with your smartphone and includes fitness-based games.

"Count your steps to stay in shape with these devices" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You’re on an outing with your troop when a buddy slips off the trail and messes up his leg. Miles and at least a day’s hike from the nearest trailhead, what are you gonna do?

Hopefully, you have the first-aid training and supplies needed to care for your friend. If not, earn your First Aid merit badge ASAP — and read on for advice on assembling a useful first-aid kit filled with the right contents.

THE LOW DOWN ON FIRST-AID KITS

Build It or Buy It?

The biggest advantage to building your own first-aid kit is knowing the contents of your kit and where it is inside. The hard part is buying everything you need in small enough sizes to keep your first-aid kit light and compact.

But buying a prepackaged first-aid kit often costs less, requires no set up time and usually comes in a specially designed storage bag with handy pockets and compartments.

If you buy a commercially made first-aid kit, just make sure you take everything out of it and then put it back in so you’re familiar with all of the contents and components. Understand what each item is used for so you’ll be prepared, and don’t hesitate to add additional items.

Price

You’ll often save money by buying a prepackaged first-aid kit. A decent first-aid kit can cost as as little as $10 to $25.

Customizing a First-Aid Kit

The type of first-aid kit and supplies you bring will be dependent on your group size, trip duration and remoteness. For remote locations you’ll need to rely on your group’s resources, and your first-aid kit should be stocked with supplies to treat a much wider range of injuries or illnesses than for a day hike in the woods.

Make a list of the types of activities you do most often and the sort of places you most often go and how long you’ll be gone, then build or buy a first-aid kit to fit.

What Every First-Aid kit Should Include

Don’t forget to pack a first-aid manual. Nothing takes the place of first-aid training, but it’s important to have a good manual that you can turn to in an emergency. Beyond that, you’ll want to include supplies to treat the most common outdoor injuries — stuff like moleskin for blisters, tweezers for splinters, bandages, antibiotic ointment and antiseptic towelettes for cuts and scrapes, ibuprofen for aches and pain, and antihistamines for allergic reactions.

What You Should Leave Out

Skip the instant ice packs. They’re heavy and only provide about 15 minutes of cold therapy. To properly treat a sprained ankle, you need to ice the injured area every 30 minutes. Use ice from a cooler, snow or cold water from a river or lake if you need to improvise.

And forget the hydrogen peroxide — it’s so strong it kills the germs and living tissue, so it’ll just take longer for your wound to heal. The only solution you need to clean wounds is clean drinking water or a dilute povidone-iodine solution if the wound is particularly dirty.

Keep Your First-Aid Kit Current

Make a contents list so you can keep an inventory of items in your first-aid kit. Get into the habit of checking your first-aid kit before every outing. If any medicines and ointments have expired or have been used up, replace them. And make sure nothing is wet or spoiled.

BUILD YOUR OWN FIRST-AID KIT

As it says in the “First Aid” merit badge pamphlet, “the worst first-aid kit is the one that never gets made.” Make sure that doesn’t happen by buying a good first-aid kit or building one yourself.

Personal First-Aid Kit

A personal kit should have the necessary supplies for treating minor injuries like scrapes and blisters. This can be kept in a resealable plastic bag or hip pack. Here are the basics for your pack:

• Six latex-free adhesive bandages in assorted sizes
• Two sterile 3-by-3-inch gauze pads
• Small roll of latex-free adhesive tape
• 3-by-6-inch piece of moleskin
• Disposable latex-free gloves
• Tweezers
• Scissors
• CPR breathing barrier
• Small bar of soap or small bottle of alcohol-based hand-sanitizing gel
• Pencil and paper or small notebook
• Small tube of antibiotic ointment (optional)
• Small tube of hydrocortisone cream (optional)

Some people are allergic to antibiotics and hydrocortisone creams. Be sure to ask permission before applying any ointments. People can also be allergic to latex, which is why it’s important to use latex-free products.

You can find preassembled first-aid kits at the Scout Shop.

For the Patrol

A larger kit can have items to address more serious emergencies. This first-aid kit should cover one patrol on a typical outing:

• First-aid manual, like the “First Aid” merit badge pamphlet
• 1 2-inch roller bandage
• 2 1-inch roller bandages
• 2 rolls of 1-inch adhesive tape
• 6 alcohol swabs
• Water purification tablets
• 12 assorted adhesive bandages
• 2 elastic bandages, 3 to 6 inches wide
• 12 3-by-3-inch sterile pads
• Antiseptic towelettes
• 2 triangular bandages, 40-inch
• 2 3-by-4-inch nonadherent sterile dressings
• 5-by-9-inch trauma pad to stanch bleeding
• Moleskin
• 3 butterfly closure bandages
• Petroleum jelly
• Antibiotic ointment
• Insect repellent
• Scissors
• Tweezers
• Safety pins
• Aloe vera gel for sunburn
• 2 pairs latex gloves
• Mouth-barrier device

At Home

Gather these materials and keep them in a handy spot in the house:

• First-aid manual, like the “First Aid” merit badge pamphlet
• 2 2-inch gauze bandages
• Roll of 1-inch adhesive tape
• 12 3-by-3-inch sterile pads
• 12 assorted adhesive bandages
• 2 elastic bandages, 3 to 6 inches wide
• Thermometer
• Scissors
• Tweezers
• Box antiseptic wipes with benzalkonium chloride
• 2 pairs latex gloves
• Safety pins
• Calamine lotion
• Eye goggles
• Mouth-barrier device
• Small bottle antihistamines (Benadryl)
• Small bottle acetaminophen for pain and fever
• Small bottle ibuprofen for inflammation, muscle aches, pain and fever

"How to Build Your Own First-Aid Kit" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

ECOXGEAR ECOTERRA ($150, ecoxgear.com)

The EcoTerra is a durable, waterproof boombox — it protects your cellphone or MP3 player in a watertight, impact-resistant case while also playing your tunes through a pair of 3-inch speakers. Expect 25 hours of runtime on eight AA batteries. The EcoTerra is totally submersible (and it floats!), so it’s perfect for your next canoe or pool trip.

PELICAN MICRO CASE ($18-$30, pelican.com)

These Micro Cases come in a variety of sizes, perfect for protecting all sorts of devices — from a GPS unit to a 3DS to a smartphone. The hard plastic case is crushproof, dustproof and watertight, capable of surviving 3 feet underwater for 30 minutes, and it has a built-in rubber liner that keeps your stuff from bouncing around inside.

AQUAPAC MINI CAMERA CASE WITH HARD LENS ($55, aquapac.net)

Most camera cases are hard plastic and quite expensive. But this lightweight plastic waterproof bag protects your smaller point-and-shoot with a zoom lens, while still having a clear, hard acrylic lens for better photos. You can operate all the functions of your camera while it’s in the bag. Bonus: It floats.

URBAN ARMOR GEAR SCOUT ($35, urbanarmorgear.com)

This lightweight, durable, slimline case gives you access to all your phone’s controls while meeting U.S. military drop-test standards. The design has a sort of cool robotic, modern military styling to it.

E-CASE ($25-$30, cascadedesigns.com/e-case)

One of the simplest and most effective designs we tested, the E-Case is basically an overbuilt Ziploc plastic bag that keeps your cellphone or tablet protected from rain and water, while enabling you to use all its functions — from the phone to the camera — normally. The E-Case will even keep your device safe while submerged in 3 feet of water for up to 30 minutes. Some cases come with a built-in audio jack so you can listen to music or answer calls with a headset.

LIFEPROOF FRĒ POWER FOR IPHONE 6 CASE ($130, lifeproof.com)

I’ve been using a LifeProof case with my phone for years, and it has done a great job of keeping it safe and watertight. This new case steps it up a notch, adding a built-in battery charger for your iPhone. It’s still waterproof, snowproof, dustproof, etc., but the FRĒ Power also doubles your phone’s battery life. It’s a little heavy at about 4.4 ounces, but the extra juice when you need it is well worth the extra weight.

PELICAN PROGEAR VAULT TABLET CASE ($70-$100, pelican.com)

This is the coolest case we’ve found for tablets. The Vault is made of hard plastic with a rubber-edged seal, protecting your tablet against rain and dust. It’s also impact-resistant and withstands military specs for surviving a 4-foot drop. At 16 ounces, the Vault isn’t exactly super-light, but the extra protection is worth it. Fits a variety of tablet sizes.

OUTDOOR RESEARCH SENSOR DRY POCKET ARMBAND ($45, outdoorresearch.com)

This cool armband provides waterproof protection for a variety of cellphones. Your phone’s touchscreen is fully functional through the clear window, while a headphone port lets you enjoy your music on the trail. At just 1.3 oz., the armband is very lightweight and a good choice for day hiking or biking. Available this spring.

STM DUX FOR IPHONE 6/6S ($30, stmbags.com)

While the LifeProof case is like a pair of burly waterproof hiking boots for your phone, this one is more like a pair of everyday sneakers. The case is simple and sleek and provides everyday protection for your phone in a slim design that never gets in your way.

BIG AGNES ENTERTAINMENT CENTER LOFT ($50, bigagnes.com)

For those long, rainy days stuck in a tent with your buddies, there’s this. The Entertainment Center Loft turns your tent into an instant movie theater. Simply slide your tablet inside the water-resistant case and clip it into your tent’s gear loft loops. At 12″ x 8.5″ it fits most tablets. You can even set it up for an outdoor movie night.

"10 great cases and covers for your electronics" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

What’s walking around out there in the dark while you’re asleep in your tent? Or visiting camp while you’re off hiking? What’s raiding your dog’s chow in the backyard?

Find out by mounting a motion-triggered trail camera on a tree or post, and set it to automatically take photos or video of anything that moves. With a flash, you’ll even be able to capture nighttime action.

Trail cams (also known as game cameras) are smaller and more powerful than ever, with decent starter models selling for between $70 and $125. If you can’t afford one, maybe your Scout unit can get one to share. Here are some tips on buying and using a trail cam.

TRAIL CAMERA BUYING TIPS

First, check reviews to learn what others are saying about different cams. Then shop around for the best price. Look for:

FAST TRIGGER SPEED. You want no more than a 1-second lag between when the camera first picks up an animal’s heat and motion and when it takes the photo.

HIGH RESOLUTION (more megapixels) for crisper, clearer photos. Usually, a 6 MP (megapixel) camera takes better photos than a 4 MP one, but it costs more. (A good lens is also important for quality photos.)

A WELL-CAMOUFLAGED EXTERIOR that’s less likely to be seen or stolen.

A LONGER WARRANTY to protect your investment. You want a cam that won’t break down. Since they’re left outside, trail cams have to be tough. A longer warranty means the manufacturer stands behind a better-built product.

LONG BATTERY LIFE. This varies by brand, so compare different companies’ specifications. Beware of low-cost cams with a short battery life that could end up costing you more in the long run. (Remember that video gulps battery power.)

THE LARGEST DETECTION ZONE in your price range. Specs tell you in how wide of an area and how far out from the camera an animal will trigger a photo. Lower-end cameras might reach out only 50 feet, while higher-end cameras can “see” 85 feet or more.

AN LCD VISUAL DISPLAY so you can look at your photos right away without removing the memory card.

FLASH. You’ll have to choose between infrared versus incandescent or LED lighting. Infrared is invisible, so it won’t spook animals with a bright flash, but it can take only black-and-white photos that can be grainy. It’s up to you: sharp color nighttime photos or no visible flash.

TRAIL CAMERA USAGE TIPS

• Place your cam about 8 feet high for a better view and theft-proofing.

• Point the lens as northfacing as possible to avoid sun in the lens.

• Set it up where animals might hesitate, like a creek crossing.

• Attach it to a tree or post with baling wire — it’s almost invisible. Secure the cam so it will stay put even when squirrels gnaw on it (really!).

• Engrave your name and contact info all over the camera.

Important Note: Please only upload photos of animals. Because of privacy rules, we can’t post any photos that show people’s faces. Always ask for your parent’s permission before uploading anything to a website.

"How to buy and use a trail camera" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Blasting down the open road on two wheels or threading the needle on a tight mountain trail is about as close to flying as you’ll ever get. That’s the beauty of the bicycle, whether you’re into road riding, mountain biking or BMX.

Buying a new bike can be tricky, but it doesn’t have to be that way. Your Gear Guy is here to help with tips for buying your next bicycle.

THREE TYPES OF BIKES

There are three basic types of bicycles and riding that fit different personalities and environments:

Felt F24 road bike: $799; Aluminum frame, Shimano and Sunrace components, 24-inch wheels; feltbicycles.com

Road Bike

If you have a need for speed, a road bike is for you. Road bikes are lightweight with skinny tires and usually have up to 30 gears for tackling hills and going fast.

Road bikes are great for riding long distances on paved roads and multiday bike touring — and, in many towns, there are local road races.

Road bikes are usually the most expensive type of bicycles, and you can expect to pay at least $550 for a good entry-level model.

Cannondale Catalyst 4 mountain bike: $415; Aluminum frame, Shimano and Sunrace components, disc brakes, 27.5-inch wheels; cannondale.com

Mountain Bike

If you’re looking for an all-around, do-anything type of bicycle, consider a mountain bike. Mountain bikes have bigger, wider, knobby tires and lots of gears for tackling hills and rugged terrain. Some offer disc brakes for extra stopping power.

Most mountain bikes also have suspensions, or shock absorbers, on the front fork (called a “hardtail”) and sometimes also on the rear (called a “full suspension”) for a softer, easier ride on really rough trails. Hardtails are generally more durable and require less maintenance.

Mountain bikes are usually heavier than road bikes but are designed to handle riding on bumpy, rocky trails. They are great for riding around your neighborhood, too, and some people put slick tires on their mountain bikes for urban riding.

Prices for mountain bikes can vary depending on how many bells and whistles they have, but plan to spend at least $400 for a good-quality entry-level mountain bike.

Mongoose Legion L80 BMX bike: $259; Steel frame, 20-inch wheels; mongoose.com

BMX Bike

This stands for “bicycle motocross,” but no one calls it that anymore. BMX bikes are built with smaller frames and are designed for everything from doing freestyle tricks on the street to riding in skate parks to racing and jumping on motocross-style courses.

These bikes are the most affordable option and are easiest to maintain since they don’t have gears and shocks. There are specific BMX models for racing, jumping and freestyle tricks, but if you’re looking for a simple bike just to cruise around the neighborhood, a BMX bike could be a good choice. Prices for a good BMX bike start around $225.

WHERE TO SHOP

You can shop at big department and warehouse-type stores, but those bikes tend to be heavier and less durable. You’ll find higher-quality bikes at a local bicycle shop, where you can give them test rides to try before you buy. Plus, those smaller specialty shops will likely have more knowledgeable salespeople who can help fit you with the right bike. This is especially important if you’re shopping for a mountain or road bike.

And remember, you don’t have to buy a new bicycle. A well-maintained bike can last for decades, so check the Internet or local bike shops for deals on a used bicycle.

Diamondback Podium 4 road bike: $600; Aluminum frame, Shimano components, 24-inch wheels; diamondback.com

WHEEL SIZE

One of the biggest things to think about when shopping for a bike is wheel size. The outer diameter of the wheel is measured in inches or millimeters. If the wheel is too big for your height, the bike can be almost impossible to ride.

In general, a 20-inch wheel is usually best for 6- to 8-year-olds. If you’re between 9 and 12, look for a 24-inch wheel. As you grow, look to eventually size up to a 26-inch wheel. Most adult road bikes have 700c (29-inch) wheels. BMX bikes have 18- to 20-inch wheels.

FRAME SIZE

Frame sizing is determined by proper fit, not your age. It is usually measured by centimeters or inches (and what part of the frame that measures varies widely among manufacturers), or more common today, they are sized simply from extra-small to extra-large.

Specialized Hotrock 24 XC mountain bike: $470; Aluminum frame, Shimano, SRAM and Suntour components, 24-inch wheels; specialized.com

PROPER FIT

If the bike doesn’t fit you correctly, it’ll be uncomfortable and difficult to ride and can even be dangerous. Proper fit varies depending on the style of bike, but here are some rules:

Standover Height

Straddle the bike and pick it up until it hits your crotch. Now have someone measure the distance from the bottom of the tires to the floor. For a road bike, you should have about 1 inch of clearance between the tires and the floor. If it’s a mountain bike, you’ll need at least 2 inches of clearance and more if you plan on aggressive riding. This extra clearance helps maneuverability and makes it easier for you to hop on and off. Keep in mind, if the mountain bike has a full suspension (shock absorbers on both front fork and tail), then you don’t need a full 2 inches of clearance since the suspension will compress a bit under your weight while riding.

Top Tube Length

The horizontal metal tube that runs length-wise along the bike’s frame from the seat to the handlebars is called the top tube. Sit on the saddle and reach for the handlebars. It’s best to have a slight bend in your elbows as you grip the handlebars. If you’re reaching too much, the bike is too long for you. If you feel cramped and your knees are close to hitting the handlebars, then it’s too short.

Seat Height

While sitting on the saddle with your foot at the bottom of the pedal stroke, your knee should be bent slightly, NOT fully extended. Seat height is easily adjustable to fit how tall you are.

The BMX Exception

None of the preceding fit advice works for BMX bikes. Just look for a bike that feels comfortable.

DK Raven BMX bike: $269; Steel frame, 18- or 20-inch wheels; dkbicycles.com

QUALITY FRAMES AND COMPONENTS

A bike’s frame is like its skeleton. It’s what gives the bike structure and strength. Quality mountain bikes and road bikes usually have frames made of lightweight aluminum (more expensive models often have composite frames like carbon fiber). BMX bike frames are usually made of steel.

QUALITY COMPONENTS

The main difference in bicycle pricing comes down to quality and durability, and how lightweight the frame and components are.

A bike’s frame is its skeleton, which gives it structure and strength. Quality mountain and road bikes usually have frames made of lightweight aluminum or carbon fiber, while BMX bike frames are usually made of steel. Though the frame is very important, it’s the bike’s components (gears, cranks and other moving parts) that keep it moving down the road. There are hundreds of different types of components, but look for bikes with components from well-known, trusted brands like Shimano, Suntour and SRAM, and suspensions like RockShox and Fox.

ALWAYS TEST DRIVE

Before you buy a bike, be sure to take it for a test ride.

But don’t just cruise around the lot. To get a feel for a bike’s performance, try doing tight turns and sprints. For mountain bikes and BMX bikes, consider riding up curbs and speed bumps. Pay special attention to how the bike handles while turning, and note if the gears shift smoothly. Finally, some specialty shops will have demo bikes you can take out on a longer ride — this is a great way to get a feel for a bicycle.

"How to Buy the Perfect Bike" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

It seems as though you’ve been on the trail forever. All you can think about is getting to camp so you can cook up something warm and tasty There’s nothing like enjoying a Dutch oven meal, but sometimes a prepackaged meal is the call. Though a little more expensive than homemade meals, they’re lightweight, simple to prepare and, in some cases, surprisingly delicious.

BREAKFAST

MOUNTAIN HOUSE BISCUITS AND GRAVY ($6, mountainhouse.com): This is one of the best breakfasts we tested. It really does taste like homemade buttermilk biscuits with gravy and pork sausage. It’s definitely a stick-to-your-ribs kind of meal.
Tip: Add a little black pepper, and use a bit less water to thicken the gravy.
Cook Time: 10 minutes; requires 1-3/4 cups of boiling water; cooks in the bag.

LUNCH

MEAL KIT SUPPLY MRE ($45 for six two-course lunch/dinner meals; $130 for 12 three-course breakfast/lunch/dinner meals, mealkitsupply.com): Almost identical to the MREs (meals, ready to eat) used by the U.S. military, these MREs include lots of food. One of our three-course favorites — the beef ravioli in meat sauce — includes potato cheddar soup, crackers, cheese spread, lemon-lime powdered drink mix, cocoa drink mix and chocolate pudding. There’s so much food here, you could eat some for lunch and save some for dinner. This is not dehydrated food. Instead, it comes with a heating packet activated by a tiny bit of water to warm up the entrée. They aren’t exactly lightweight (1–2 pounds each), and there’s some extra packaging you’ll need to pack out, but they’re super easy to prepare and pretty tasty, too.
Cook Time: 10 minutes; requires 2 oz. of water; cooks in the bag.

When you buy a case of Meal Kit Supply MREs, you get a random mix of different meals. You can’t choose which ones, but expect to see meals like vegetarian lasagna, chicken fajita, pork sausage patty, chili with beans, vegetarian ratatouille and another of our faves: spaghetti with meat sauce. Consider pooling your money with others and sharing a case of MREs.

MARYJANESFARM OUTPOST CHILIMAC ($7, shop.maryjanesfarm.org): Who doesn’t love mac and cheese? And who doesn’t love chili? Mixed together, it’s a winner. This meal is organic and vegetarian, and totally seems like a comfort-food classic. It’s made with pasta, white sharp cheddar cheese, lentils, pinto bean flakes, onions, tomatoes, etc.
Cook Time: 10 minutes; requires 1 cup of boiling water; cooks in the bag.

DINNER

PACKIT GOURMET DOTTIE’S CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS ($8, packitgourmet.com): This one got rave reviews from our taste testers — one guy said, “Tastes like real food!” I can personally say it’s one of the best prepackaged trail meals I’ve tried. With roasted chicken and dumplings in a thick, savory gravy, it reminded me of something Grandma might make.
Cook Time: 10 to 15 minutes; requires 2 cups of boiling water; cooks in the bag.

PATAGONIA PROVISIONS GARDEN VEGGIE TSAMPA SOUP ($6.50, patagoniaprovisions.com): You probably already know Patagonia makes high-quality outdoor gear. They also make some downright tasty food. This organic soup is a hearty mix of roasted buckwheat, quinoa, onion, carrots and more and is a traditional energy-food favorite of the Sherpa people in the mountains of Nepal. If you really want to turbocharge your Tsampa Soup, try crumbling some …

PATAGONIA PROVISIONS WILD SOCKEYE SALMON ($12, patagoniaprovisions.com): It’s not cheap, but one of my young testers claimed it was “the best fish I’ve ever eaten.”
Cook Time: 9 minutes; requires 2 cups of boiling water; provide your own pot.

BACKPACKER’S PANTRY FETTUCCINI ALFREDO WITH CHICKEN ($11, backpackerspantry.com): Here’s a tasty, cheesy pasta dish. Honestly, it’s the type of meal that you’d be more than happy to eat at home. It’s simple: pasta with creamy thick cheese sauce and roasted red peppers.
Tip: Let the meal cook a little longer than recommended to make sure the pasta is totally done.
Cook Time: 13 minutes; requires 2 cups of boiling water; cooks in the bag.

DESSERT

ALPINEAIRE CINNAMON APPLE CRISP ($4.50, shop.katadyn.com): If you have a sweet tooth, you’ll really want to try this one. Dump a cup of hot water in the bag, stir it up and you’ve got something that tastes a lot like warm apple pie. There are flavors of cinnamon and brown sugar sauce, and you can top it with granola.
Cook Time: 10 minutes; requires 1 cup of boiling water; cooks in the bag.

BACKPACKER’S PANTRY ASTRONAUT ICE CREAM SANDWICH ($3.40, backpackerspantry.com): Man, this is good! It looks just like a regular ice-cream sandwich with freeze-dried vanilla ice cream between two chocolate wafers. It melts in your mouth and, if you let it sit there for a second or two, the ice cream becomes nice and creamy.
Cook Time: none.

"9 Great Prepackaged Trail Meals" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Summer is here. So is the sun. Mostly that’s a good thing. It means longer days for playing with your friends and exploring the outdoors. But if you’re not careful, too much exposure to the sun can cause problems for you now and down the line (think: sunburns AND skin cancer).

Who better to tap for sun-protection advice than a professional angler who fishes more than 150 days a year and spends up to 12 hours a day on the water?

“I’m constantly out there and definitely in the sun all the time,” says Justin Lucas, a 23-year-old pro fisherman with Team National Guard.

There are some simple things you can do, and gear you can use, that are effective while still letting you squeeze every last drop of fun out of summer. Read on and get the lowdown.

SUNSCREEN

“It’s nice to have a good-looking tan, but you also have to think about your skin down the road,” Lucas warns.

The sun’s rays are broken into two types of ultraviolet rays: UVA and UVB. Both are harmful, but UVB rays burn your skin and cause most cases of skin cancer. Covering yourself with clothing and a hat is the best way to avoid sun exposure, but for the parts of your body that are uncovered, wear a sunscreen with a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 15.

All sunscreens are labeled with an SPF number. The higher the SPF, the longer your skin can last in the sun before it burns (though most experts say anything over SPF 30 doesn’t add much protection). So if you normally burn in about 10 minutes, SPF 15 sunscreen will protect you for about 150 minutes. “I always put sunscreen on first thing in the morning when it’s still dark outside,” he says. “It’s important to put it on at least 20 minutes before your skin is exposed to the sun. Then I reapply it at least two times throughout the day.” Apply plenty of lotion, and pay special attention to your face, ears and neck. Don’t forget the tops of your feet if you’re wearing flip-flops.

The sun is at its strongest between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. At higher elevation, the sun is even stronger. Water reflects almost 100 percent of UV radiation. Even if your head is covered, the UV rays will still find your face. So be prepared — and be smart.

HATS

A hat can act as your own personal shade tree. One with a four-inch brim will reduce the sun exposure to your head, neck and face by up to 70 percent. For maximum protection, look for a hat made with UPF (the amount of ultraviolet light that penetrates fabric) of 15 or greater.

“A lot of guys I fish with wear sun hats, the ones with the big rounded bills,” Lucas says. “They are good, but for me it’s just easier to wear a regular baseball cap.” Baseball caps are fine, but if you wear one, Lucas says you must remember to put sunscreen on spots a hat won’t cover, like the tops of your ears, cheekbones, the tip of your nose and the back of your neck.

SUNGLASSES

Too much sun can harm your eyes. Prolonged exposure to UVB rays over many years can cause cataracts, a nasty disease that clouds the lenses of your eyes. So protect yourself with a quality pair of sunglasses.

Gear Guy has preached to readers about this in the past: Don’t even think about wearing those cheap drugstore sunglasses. And darker lenses aren’t necessarily better. Make sure you get glasses that are labeled 100 percent UV protection or UV 400.

“The real key to sunglasses when you’re in the outdoors is polarization,” Lucas says. “As fishermen it helps us see into the water, but polarization also drastically reduces glare no matter what you’re doing.”

UV-PROTECTIVE CLOTHING

Last summer, your mom was probably nagging you to wear a T-shirt in the water so you wouldn’t get a sunburn. Well, that only sort of works. A dry cotton T-shirt gives you the protection of only about UPF 8; a wet one offers only approximately half that.

For best protection, wear a shirt that’s designed to protect you even when it’s wet, like the one from O’Neill below. Otherwise, look for stuff that has at least UPF 15.

“Long-sleeve shirts and pants are best,” Lucas says. “They protect your skin and actually keep you cooler, especially the ones that have vents in them.” Stick with light-colored fabrics and those made of lightweight nylon blends that keep you dry while wicking the sweat away from your skin.

"Sun protection buying guide" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

When it comes to buying new running shoes, it doesn’t really matter how cool they look or how sweet a bargain they were. If the shoes don’t fit properly, you won’t be running much of anywhere — except maybe back to the store.

Picking the right shoes for road- or trail-running is tough stuff. So for some handy tips and tricks we tapped former Boy Scout and ex-running store employee Alan Webb, who also just so happens to be one of the fastest distance runners on Earth.

Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned runner, read on and we guarantee you’ll learn something from Webb that will make your next trip to the shoe store better than ever.

SHOP FOR THE STORE, NOT THE SHOE

“The best thing to do is try to find a good running specialty store,” Webb says. “Sure, you’ll pay $10 or $15 more than at some big-box shoe store, but you’re getting service and you’re getting the right shoe.” Salespeople at specialty stores will take the time to help you find a shoe that properly fits your type of foot.

KNOW YOUR FOOT

Everybody runs differently, but we all do something called pronating when we run.

Basically, every time your shoe hits the ground your foot rolls from the outer edge to the inner edge. Guys whose feet roll excessively inward are called over-pronators. Those whose feet don’t roll in much at all are called under-pronators.

Most running shoes are designed for one type of foot or the other (and most say so in the printed product details on the tag or box).

A salesperson at a running store can tell you right away what kind of a foot you have. Or try this: Put your old pair of shoes side-by-side on a table, toes pointing away from you, and look at how the cushion has worn down. If the shoes tilt outward you are an under-pronator; if they tilt inward, then you are an over-pronator. If they do neither, you have a neutral gait.

“Figure out what kind of runner you are, then find a shoe that matches your foot,” Webb says. Over-pronators need a shoe with added stability and motion control. Neutral runners and under-pronators are usually best off with a shoe with cushioning that minimizes impact without directing the foot in a specific direction.

ROAD OR TRAIL?

Once you know your foot type, think about where you’ll be running most often. Regular running shoes are best for streets or well-maintained jogging paths, but if you plan on heading off-road on rough or undeveloped trails, go for a trail-runner. Trail-runners are usually heavier but have sturdy knobby soles and additional foot support.

WEATHER OR NOT

Is it hot where you run? If so, look for a lightweight shoe with lots of mesh. Cold and rainy? Then pick a pair made with fabrics such as Gore-Tex that will protect you from cold while keeping your feet dry.

IF THE SHOE FITS….

Some guys, like Webb, prefer their shoes to be tight.

“I wear my shoes at least a half size smaller than most people do,” he says. “I jam my foot inside my shoe, so I’ve grown to like that tight feel.”

But for most, a thumbnail’s width of space past your longest toe and the end of the shoe is fine. Also, make sure you have enough room to wiggle your toes freely. Be careful about buying shoes bigger so you’ll have room to grow into into them, because a loose shoe can cause blisters and foot problems if you’re running often.

TEST DRIVE

Always try on the the shoes before you buy. The best time of day to shop for shoes is the evening, Webb says, because your feet swell throughout the day and are largest late in the day. Try on shoes while wearing the same kind of socks you’ll be wearing when running. Finally, don’t be shy: Run around inside the shop. Do your best to simulate the bouncing and bounding you’ll do while actually running.

"Running shoes buying guide" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

If only our eyes were as keen as an eagle’s. Eagle eyes can see up to eight times better than the sharpest human eyes, and a golden eagle can even watch its prey from a mile away.

If you could see that well, what would you do?

Besides zooming in on birds and other wildlife, you could use your super vision to check out a campsite from a long way off, or see the stitches on a baseball as your favorite pitcher hurls it toward home plate.

With binoculars, all of that is within reach. But first you have to pick the right pair for the job. It’s easy if you know what to look for—and what to look out for. To make the shopping easier we hooked up with Jim Wilson, an award-winning birder (you might call him a Super Bird-Watcher).

Here are Wilson’s tips:

THE LOWDOWN

Binoculars are like a pair of telescopes strapped side-by-side. Here’s basically how they work: A pair of convex (or curved) lenses bring the image closer while a pair of prisms (like chunks of glass) flip the image so what shows up in front of your eyes is a true—and much zoomed in—version of what you’re looking at.

There are three sizes of binoculars: standard, compact and pocket. Standard binoculars provide the best magnification and clarity, though they can be bulky and heavy. Compact binoculars are smaller and more manageable while still providing relatively good performance. Pocket binoculars are small enough to fit into a pocket but won’t provide as much magnification and clarity.

PRICE

In general, the more you spend the better the optical quality. Sure, there are $1,000 binoculars, but you can still get a good pocket pair for around $50. About $300 will get you a pair of quality full-size binoculars that should be all you’ll need for many years.

SIZE MATTERS

When shopping for binoculars, you’ll see numbers like 7×32 and 8×42. The first number refers to the magnification, so a 7-power binocular gives you roughly seven times your normal eye’s power. The second number is the size of the lens in millimeters. The wider the lens, the more light that comes through, so the brighter the image appears. When it comes to magnification, more isn’t always better.

“The higher the magnification, the more shake you’ll get while handholding them,” Wilson says. “You’ll also have less of a wide field of view,” meaning you’ll zero in and see less of the overall scene. Look for binoculars in the 7 to 8 power range.

Anything over 10 will require a tripod to keep them steady.

GOOD GLASS

The difference between models in binoculars often comes down to lens coatings. “A lot of coatings give you higher contrast for a sharper image and more definition between colors,” Wilson says. If you can afford it, choose fully coated optics.

FIND YOUR FIT

“One of the most important things is how they feel,” Wilson says. “Does your finger sit comfortably on the focus wheel? Does the distance between your eyes match the eyepiece?” Also, if you’re a small guy, don’t pick a huge pair of binoculars that are so heavy they weigh you down. If they aren’t comfortable, you won’t want to use them.

SEEING IS BELIEVING

“Try before you buy,” Wilson says. Go to a store that sells lots of binoculars and try as many as you can. Focus on things way across the store and look out the window. Online stores are fine, but Wilson recommends making your final purchase at a local store. “You want to test out the exact pair you’ll be buying because optical quality can vary even between two pairs of the same binoculars.”

"Binoculars buying guide" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Socks are the most underrated — and most often ignored — piece of outdoor gear. A quality pair of socks might seem expensive at first, but it is worth its weight in gold and will make your time on the trail so much more enjoyable.

THE 5 SOCK COMMANDMENTS

1. Thou shalt never wear cotton socks for hiking. They absorb sweat quickly and are very slow to dry. Soggy, sweaty feet = BLISTERS.

2. Thou shalt wear only socks made of wool or synthetic fibers … or a blend of both. They will dry quickly, wick sweat away from your feet and keep your feet more comfortable on the trail.

3. Thou shalt wear socks that fit. Make sure your socks fit snugly. If they’re too big, they’ll bunch up inside your boots or shoes and be uncomfortable and might cause blisters.

4. Thou shalt not dry your socks on a stick over the campfire. They might catch fire or melt. Instead, wring them out and lay them on a warm rock in the sun.

5. Thou shalt always pack three pairs of socks. That way, you have a pair to hike in, an extra pair for hiking when the other gets wet, and a clean, dry pair for sleeping.

MONEY-SAVING SOCK BUYING TIP

Here’s a little secret: There’s often sizing overlap between large kids’ socks and small adult socks. They’re essentially the same product and cover the same size feet, but the kids’ versions are usually much cheaper. So check the company’s sock sizing charts online, and when they fit, go with the cheaper kids’ version.

"How to Pick the Best Socks for the Trail" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

The feeling of freedom is what attracts lots of guys to skiing and snowboarding in the first place. Once they try it, they’re hooked.

Having the right equipment can make the difference between spending your days shredding the slopes or scraping yourself up off the snow. There are a few things you should know before you go ski and snowboard shopping, and Deneen and 17-year-old pro snowboarder Johnny Lazzareschi will fill you in.

THE LOW DOWN

Whether you’re a skier or snowboarder, the first thing you need to do is decide which type of riding you think you’ll be doing the most. There are two main types of skis: freestyle and all-mountain. Same goes for snowboards.

“Freestyle boards are best for sliding rails and doing jumps,” Lazzareschi says. Slightly longer, all-mountain boards (also called freeride) are designed to be ridden all over the mountain and in all sort os snow conditions.

Next, be smart about where you shop. Snow-specific specialty shops will give you the best service in selecting your gear, though better deals can be had online or in big sporting goods stores.

“But don’t just go to one shop and buy all your stuff there without shopping around first,” Lazzareschi warns. Also, if you can wait until the off-season you can usually find really good deals, especially at the big stores with lots of inventory.

“The best time to buy skis is in the off-season, like March. That’s when stuff starts going on sale,” Deneen says.

Finally, if you’re not sure what sort of skis or board you want, renting can be a good way to go. Some shops have a fleet of demos so you can try the latest and greatest models, while some even offer full-season lease options that rent you an entire kit (boots, bindings, and skis or snowboard) for around $150.

SKIS

Price: $400-$800

Length: Skis should be your height or barely taller.

Width: Pick a ski with a waist of 70 to 80 mm for all-mountain skiing.

Flex: Soft to medium flex is best for beginner/intermediates. Stiff for more aggressive skiers.

Bindings: Will cost $150 to $300.

Boots: Fits from a half-size to a full-size smaller than street shoes. Try injected foam liners for a better fit. $300 to $600.

SNOWBOARDS

Price: $250-$500

Length: Board should come up to between your chin and forehead.

Width: Your feet should be just about flush with the edge of the board, not hanging over the side.

Flex: Choose more flex if you’ll be doing freestyle moves in the park/pipe; more stiffness for all-mountain riding.

Bindings: Pick strap bindings (not step-ins); should cost $125 to $200.

Boots: Fits half-size smaller than street shoes. $150 to $250.

WEAR A HELMET

“It’s kind of the coolest thing on the mountain now — everybody wears a helmet,” freestyle skier Patrick Deneen says. “Even if you’re just going to go slow, you’re definitely going to get hit. I’ve seen them save lives.

"Ski and snowboard buying guide" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Navigation is one of the most important wilderness skills you can develop. While some people seem to have a natural sense of direction, the only way to be certain you don’t get lost is to use a reliable compass or global-positioning system (commonly known by the letters GPS) receiver.

The problem is: With so many different types of navigation products, it’s hard to know what you need and what you don’t. Not to worry! The Gear Guy is here to help.

COMPASS

Earth is like a big magnet. So wherever you are — atop a mountain or in the middle of the ocean — your compass will always point toward Earth’s magnetic North Pole. That provides you a reliable direction that can help you get home.

Here’s how it works: A compass has a super-light magnetized metal needle that spins freely and is always attracted to, and pointing toward, the magnetic North Pole. The baseplate is usually transparent and includes a ruler, which is handy for reading and measuring distances on maps. A rotating ring on the top of the compass, called a bezel or azimuth ring, marks the direction you plan to travel.

A basic compass costs between $12 and $25. More advanced compasses, at about $40 to $70, come with features like mirrors and magnifiers, which make navigation easier and improve accuracy. Some beginners find digital compasses easier to read. They don’t have magnetic needles but still provide accurate readings thanks to tiny sensors that can locate the planet’s magnetic fields. Of course, digital compasses require battery power, so if your batteries die in the backcountry you’re outta luck. You can also find small compasses built in to watchbands or attached to zipper pulls. They’re cool; just don’t rely on them for accuracy.

GPS RECEIVER

Flying high above the atmosphere, 31 GPS satellites orbit Earth. The U.S. military launched these satellites to help troops find their way, but now GPS is free for anyone to use.

All you need is a GPS receiver.

Here’s how it works: That receiver tries to find at least four of those satellites. Once it finds them, it uses their positions to mathematically determine your location and even the direction you are moving. It’s a complicated system, but most GPS receivers are simple to use. Just type in the coordinates of your destination, and the receiver will lead you there.

For some people, GPS receivers can be more user-friendly than compasses. But they are also much more expensive, starting around $90 and going way up from there to $500 or more. Also, they aren’t foolproof. So always carry (and know how to use) a compass as a backup, just in case your GPS battery dies or the receiver conks out.

Most smartphones now have decent GPS capability, but when it comes to finding your way in the backcountry, a dedicated GPS receiver is the best choice. These receivers are more durable and weatherproof with long-lasting battery life. Most GPS units also have handy route-finding functions like setting waypoints so you can find your way back to camp or to a favorite fishing hole in the wilderness, and they easily keep track of your total miles traveled.

FUN WITH NAVIGATION

GPS units and compasses can be lifesavers. Here are two entertaining and challenging activities you can do to improve your navigation skills while having fun.

With a compass … ORIENTEERING. Known as the “thinking sport” or “cunning running”; orienteers use a map and compass to navigate/race their way through specially designed wilderness courses, scrambling over rocks, through forests and across streams to reach various checkpoints in the fastest possible time.

With GPS … GEOCACHING. Like a high-tech treasure hunt, geocaching uses GPS receivers to search for and locate hidden geocaches around the world. Stashed in hard-to-spot places, the caches are typically small waterproof containers with a logbook (to be signed by all who find it) and, sometimes, trinkets and toys for trading.

"How to Buy the Best Compass or GPS Receiver" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Cheap vs. Steep: “Cheap” gear listed here is great stuff. It has been studied and tested and ranks among the best offerings in its price range. When you’re ready to move up to higher-end gear, the “Steep” options provide room to grow. You can often find great deals online.

HELMETS

News flash: Wearing a helmet on the slopes is cool. It means you’re smart and that you’re charging hard enough to need a brain bucket. Wear only an ASTM- or CE-approved helmet. Some helmets come with added ventilation, removable earpads, even built-in headphones. But most important, pick one that fits comfortably snug.

• Cheap: Salomon Drift Kid ($60; salomon.com)
• Steep: Ride Duster ($100; ridesnowboards.com)

GOGGLES

Goggles are meant to keep blowing snow and wind out of your eyes so you can concentrate on shredding the hill. The fit should be snug with no big gaps between your face and goggle where air can enter. Also, make sure the top of the goggle frame meets the helmet as closely as possible. Different lens tints work better in different snow conditions. Pick a darker lens for very bright days; yellow or rose tints work well in lower light. Some goggles even come with interchangeable lenses.

• Cheap: Oakley E Frame ($39; oakley.com)
• Steep: Smith Stance ($90; smithoptics.com)

BASE LAYER

If you’re wearing a regular cotton T-shirt as a base layer, you must be stuck in the 1980s! What you need next to your skin is a quick-drying fabric like a synthetic blend or wool, which wicks moisture away from your skin while keeping you warm. A zippered mock T gives you the maximum ability to regulate your body temp. Should fit snug, but not too snug.

• Cheap: Polarmax PMX Team Shirt and Tech Pant ($25 each; polarmax.com)
• Steep: Icebreaker Longsleeve Crewe and Legging ($60 each; icebreaker.com)

MID LAYER

If you’ve learned anything from Gear Guy about dressing for the outdoors, it’s this: Wear layers! If you get hot, take a layer off. Get cold, put one on. Fleece or down pullovers and jackets make great mid layers. Should fit relatively close to the body but with enough room to move.

• Cheap: Eddie Bauer First Ascent Cloudlayer fleece pullover ($20; eddiebauer.com)
• Steep: The North Face Vesty Vest ($89; thenorthface.com)

JACKET

This outer layer protects you from the wind, snow, sleet, etc. Look for a jacket that’s waterproof and breathable. Some come with built-in insulation or removable layers depending on the weather. A few zippered pockets are nice, but you don’t need too many gadgets. Should be roomy for mobility and to accommodate extra layers, but not so loose that it’ll get caught on the ski lift.

• Cheap: Columbia Rugged Peak Jacket ($115; columbia.com)
• Steep: Patagonia 3-in-1 Snowshot Jacket ($339; patagonia.com)

PANTS

Eventually, you’re gonna fall. And when you do, you’ll need a good pair of waterproof/breathable pants to keep you dry and warm. Wear them loose, but not baggy, for mobility.

• Cheap: Columbia Bugaboo Tech Pant ($85; columbia.com)
• Steep: Sierra Designs Rad Pants ($199; sierradesigns.com)

GLOVES

Look for gloves that are warm and waterproof/breathable. They need to fit tight enough so you have plenty of dexterity with your fingers and no unnecessary bulk. Leather palms can help with better feel, too.

• Cheap: Kombi Gore Method Jr. ($50; kombisports.com)
• Steep: Outdoor Research HighCamp ($79; outdoorresearch.com)

SOCKS

Wear a pair of mid-weight synthetic or merino wool socks — never cotton tube socks because they won’t keep your feet warm once they’re sweaty and wet. Make sure your socks are close-fitting because if they’re too loose, they’ll bunch up and cause blisters.

• Cheap: Lorpen Kid’s Merino Ski ($15 for 2 pair; lorpen.com)
• Steep: Icebreaker Kids Snow Mid Over the Calf ($15; icebreaker.com)

SKIS

You’ll spend somewhere between $350 to $900 for a pair of skis. In general, look for skis that come up to about your nose or forehead. For a variety of all-mountain type skiing, pick a ski with a waist of about 70 to 80 millimeters and a soft or medium flex, which is best for beginner and intermediate skiers.

• Cheap: Salomon Shogun Jr. ($275; salomon.com)
• Steep: K2 Bad Seed ($550; k2skis.com)

SKI BOOTS

Well-fitting boots are key to maintaining control of your skis. Look for four-buckle boots with customizable features for fine-tuning a better fit. The flex of your boots is also important. Beginners should look for a less stiff boot. Ski boots should fit one-half size to a full size smaller than street shoes.

• Cheap: Nordica GP TJ ($185; nordicausa.com)
• Steep: Tecnica Bodacious 65 Jr. ($375; tecnicausa.com)

SKI BINDINGS

Bindings are the connection between you and your skis. Step in and they click as they lock in. When you wipe out, the binding releases and tiny brakes pop down to stop your skis from skiing away from you! How easily they release can be adjusted; most beginners should choose a low-release setting. Most new skis are paired with bindings and will cost an extra $150 to $300.

SNOWBOARD

Expect to spend between $250 and $500 for a new snowboard. Your board should come up to right around your chin. You also want to make sure the board is wide enough so that your feet don’t hang over the edge when you turn. The next thing to consider is board stiffness. Softer flex is best for beginners because it’s easier to ride. More stiffness helps advanced riders on steeper slopes.

• Cheap: Rome Label Rocker ($260; romesnowboards.com)
• Steep: Lib Tech Lib Ribber ($349; lib-tech.com)

SNOWBOARD BOOTS

Make sure your boots are comfortable from the first time you try them on. They should fit snug in the heel and forefoot with some wiggle room for your toes. For starters try a half-size smaller than your street shoes. In general, entry-level boots have traditional shoe lacing; higher-end boots use a tightening system that lets you easily dial in the tightness with a knob.

• Cheap: Ride Orion ($129; ridesnowboards.com)
• Steep: DC Judge ($270; store.dcshoes.com)

SNOWBOARD BINDINGS

Your board is attached to your feet with bindings. There are two types: straps and step-in. Strap bindings are the most popular and are the best choice. They can be cinched down super-tight using the ratchet straps, while step-ins lock you in just by stepping down on the binding.

• Cheap: Rome Shift ($120; romesnowboards.com)
• Steep: GNU Park ($239; gnu.com)

WINTER SPORTS TIPS

• Stay Hydrated. You might not be sweating and you might not feel thirsty, but your body probably is. Cold weather and active winter sports can dehydrate you quickly, so be sure to drink enough water while skiing or riding. Some guys even wear hydration packs to keep liquids close by.

• Take a Lesson. No question, the fastest way to get past the beginner blues is to take a ski or snowboard lesson or two. Most ski resorts offer lessons.

• Shop in Summer. One of the best ways to get a good deal on ski or snowboard gear is to shop during the off-season — most snow shops have good sales starting in March. You can sometimes find quality used gear in your local newspaper classified ads or online.

• Rent First. If you’re unsure about what type of skis or board would be best for you, rent your gear. Most shops have rentals and demo equipment, and some might even offer full season leasing of a whole setup for around $150 to $200.

"Snowboard and skiing gear buying guide" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

That’s exactly what professional kayaker Pat Keller did just so he could paddle a 31-mile stretch of the remote Middle Kings River in California, some of the most difficult whitewater in the United States. And he did it all (hiking and paddling) wearing a pair of river shoes. Pat knows better than most that sometimes it’s best to leave the burly hiking boots at home. That’s why we asked him to tell us how to shop for sports sandals and light hikers.

SANDALS VS. LIGHT HIKERS

There’s a place and time for boots. But in some situations, boots can be overkill — like when you’re hiking with a daypack or lightweight pack or doing water-based sports in which your feet will be wet much of the time.

“Rarely do I feel the need to strap on big burly boots,” Keller says. “If you want freedom and don’t want to worry about getting wet crossing creeks, sandals are a great option. Most of the rest of the time shoes are a better idea.”

PRICE

Sports sandals are not cheap. It’s difficult to find a quality pair of sandals capable of hiking for less than $70, and most cost more than $100. Though sandals require less material to build, it seems you get more for your money with a pair of light hikers, which run from $75 to $140. For better prices, check the Internet for closeouts and the bargain table at your local outfitter shop.

TRY BEFORE YOU BUY

How many times have you heard the Gear Guy say this? But it’s so important. Go to a store where you can try on the sandals or shoes. Bring the sort of socks you’d expect to wear with light hikers. Try on as many as you can, and don’t be afraid to tromp all around the store for 10 minutes or so.

“A lot of fitting shops have a little incline. Try walking up and down on that and pay attention for any slipping and potential for blisters,” Keller recommends. “The right shoe should be comfy from the get-go.” With sandals and light hikers, there should be zero break-in period.

BE A SOLE MAN

Arguably the most important part of the shoe is the sole, the bottom where all the tread is. The deeper the tread, the more grip you have.

“You need to trust that those knobbies will get you to the top of the hill,” Keller says. “And you want to be able to have enough
rigidity in the sole that you can kick it into the hillside for traction.”

Certain types of soles are made for specific activities. Make sure the pair you pick fits with the activities you plan on doing.

“Harder rubber compounds are better for kicking in steps on steep banks, and travel on dirt trails,” he says. “And they last longer than the squishy, sticky rubber soles that are super good for wet rock.”

WEATHER OR NOT

Sports sandals are best for wet environments. And they can be good for warm climates, too, but some offer more ventilation than others. The same goes for light hikers. Most are constructed with mesh (best for warmer climates) or leather uppers (cooler climates), while some are made with waterproof/breathable fabrics like Gore-Tex. Keep this in mind: Even though the shoe might be waterproof, if you step in a puddle or stream more than ankle-deep your foot will get wet all the same.

FIT BEFORE FASHION

“Get what you like and what you think looks good,” Keller says, “but stop yourself before you buy to make sure it feels good and really fits.”

CHECK THE RULES

Sports sandals have their place in the outdoors, but not every place. Many camps require closed-toe shoes. Check before you go.

"Sports sandals and light hikers buying guide" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

With big knobby tires and air-filled shock absorbers, mountain bikes make easy work of even the toughest terrain. They help you head deeper and faster into the wilderness, sometimes accessing places easier than on foot. Here are a few things you should know before buying a mountain bike.

THE LOWDOWN

There are two main types of mountain bikes: full suspension and hardtail. Bikes with full suspension have shock absorbers on both the front and rear for a softer, easier ride on really rough trails. They’re also the most expensive. Hardtails have suspension only on the front fork. This type is generally more durable, requires less maintenance and is a great choice for most riders.

Mountain bikes also come with either rim or disc brakes. Unless you’re an advanced rider, choose a bike with rim-style brakes, the most common and easiest to service.

No matter what sort of bike you’re looking for, here are a few tips to keep in mind:

WHERE TO SHOP

“Look beyond department store bikes and go to your local bike shop,” says pro rider Jeremy Horgan-Kobelski, the reigning mountain bike national champion. “The salespeople there will be so much more knowledgeable and there’s a huge step up in quality of bikes.”

When talking to salespeople, be honest about your biking skills and where you plan to ride. That way, they can point you toward the best bike for your skill level.

PRICE

Sure, you may see a really cool-looking, full-suspension bicycle for $150 at a department store, but odds are it’ll be really heavy and not very durable. Expect to spend at least $300 to get a good quality, entry-level mountain bike, Kobelski says. For more experienced riders, check out bikes in the $500 to $700 range. Those models will likely be lighter, more durable and outfitted with higher quality gears and components.

QUALITY

As you push the pedals, it’s the bike’s components (gears and other moving parts) that move you down the trail. But if you buy a bike with poor-quality components, you probably won’t get very far. Look for quality component brand names like Shimano, Sun Tour, SRAM and Bontrager.

FIT

Someone at the shop should help you find the correct bike for your size.

“The most important measurement is the stand-over height,” Kobelski says. “Stand over the top tube and pick the bike up. See how much clearance you have — how high you can pick it up.”

You should have at least a couple of inches of room, so you can hop on and off easily. It’ll also make the bike more maneuverable. Make sure the salesman gets you fitted perfectly. And look for a bike with an adjustable-height seat so the bike can grow with you.

TEST DRIVE

Before you buy a bike, ride as many different models as you can. Kobelski recommends doing tight turns and sprinting on the bike. Try to ride up a couple of curbs, too. Pay special attention to how the bike turns and shifts.

THE BIKER’S ESSENTIALS

Don’t leave home for a ride without these important pieces of biking gear:

• Helmet
• Water Bottle
• Tire pump
• Extra inner tube and/or patch kit
• Tire and chain tools
• Bike shorts (optional)
• Gloves
• Glasses/goggles (optional)

"Mountain bike buying guide" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

The wristwatch was invented in the 1600’s when a French mathematician used a piece of string to tie a watch to his wrist.

Timekeeping has come a long way since then. These days, watches are like mini-computers that can forecast the weather, help you find your way in the woods or even get you to class on time.

For professional adventure racer Travis Macy, 23, his watch helps with navigation and keeps his team on track during grueling multi-day races.

“If we’re doing a trekking section and we’re falling asleep on our feet, we’ll stop and sleep for half an hour,” says Macy, a former Cub Scout. “And then the whole race is hanging on my watch to wake us up!”

Dealing with that kind of pressure and the race on the line, Macy knows watches. He can teach you a lot about how to pick the best one for your time-keeping needs.

FEATURES

“Before you go to buy a watch, think about the features you’re looking for,” Macy says.

If hiking and camping is your thing, consider a watch with a compass and perhaps an altimeter and barometer. If you’re into jogging, find a heart-rate-monitor watch. Remember: Just because a watch is packed with features and functions doesn’t mean it’ll be easy to use. Try it before you buy to make sure it’s user-friendly.

ANALOG VS. DIGITAL

Most modern watches use tiny quartz minerals to keep the time. When electrified, the quartz crystal vibrates a reliable 32,768 times per second; those vibrations are translated to seconds, minutes and hours. Analog watches have a standard clock-like face with two or three (or more) hands that point at numbers, which is more classic yet can be tougher to read than digital watches. Digitals continuously highlight the exact time in numerals. Some watches have dual faces with both analog and digital readouts.

DURABILITY

If you spend much time outdoors, durability is a key factor in a watch. “Make sure it’s rugged,” Macy says. “If it has a compass swivel on top, try turning that to see if that feels like it’ll hold up. Play with the buttons. Are they easy to push? Take a look at the band and the buckle to make sure they’re flexible and will hold up to the elements.”

SIZE

You want the face of the watch and the numbers to be big enough so you can see them while you’re riding a bike or running. But in general, the bigger the watch the heavier and bulkier it will be. Try to find a size that’s comfortable.

“If you’ll have only one watch, think about whether you’ll want to wear a big watch to school,” he says. “I wear the same big watch for everything, but I’ve gotten used to it. Some guys will feel more comfortable with something smaller.”

THE WATCHBAND

The way your watch is strapped to your wrist is important. If you’re outdoors a lot, choose a polyurethane band. These bands are waterproof, won’t hold odors and are very durable, but they can also be sticky in hot climates. Another good choice is a canvas and Velcro band, which is more breathable.

“Velcro bands keep your watch snug against your wrist and you can wash it when it’s dirty,” Macy says.

Leather bands don’t perform well in wet environments, but they look cool. Meanwhile, metal bands can sometimes pinch your skin, though they are usually super durable.

WHERE TO SHOP

There’s nothing more helpful than going to a store and trying a watch on to see how it feels on your wrist. Of course, you’ll probably pay more at a store versus buying it on the Internet.

“Take a look online and see if you can find a better price,” Macy says. “There are search engines where you can type in the product name and a whole list of prices will come up so you can find out what’s a good price.”

If you buy online, make sure the store is reputable and beware of counterfeit or fake watches.

"Wristwatch buying guide" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Whether it’s a perfect sunset over that alpine lake or an action shot of your troop drenching the Scoutmaster with a bucket of icy river water, capturing the moment lets your memories live on in vibrant color.

Not so long ago, you had to carry lots of film and have plenty of cash to get your pictures developed. But things have changed. Just plug the digital camera into your computer. It’s like your own home photo lab.

“Digital makes photography easier and cheaper than ever before,” says professional adventure photographer Corey Rich. “Your ability to grow as a photographer is much greater now because you can see the photos instantly and there’s no limit to how many you can shoot.”

Sounds simple enough. First, though, you need a camera. Digital technology is changing so quickly these days it can be tough to keep it all straight. So we asked Rich to give us tips on how to shop for a new digital camera. Here’s what you need to know.

SIZE MATTERS

“The idea behind making great pictures is having the camera with you all the time,” Rich says. “If a camera is big and cumbersome, more often than not it’ll get left behind.”

Stick with pocket-size cameras, also known as point-and-shoots. Look for a camera that’s compact but still packed with plenty of features and a quality lens.

BE IMAGE CONSCIOUS

Digital images are made up of millions of tiny dots or pixels. In general, the more megapixels, the better the image quality. So that’s one common way to compare digital cameras. If you’re looking for quality prints from your images — especially those larger than 8 inches by 10 inches — avoid cameras with just 1 to 3 megapixels.

“Bottom line: you shouldn’t even consider a camera with less than 4 megapixels,” Rich says.

ZOOM ZOOM

If you plan on taking photos of wildlife, consider getting a camera with an adjustable zoom lens. Look for one with a minimum optical zoom of 3x. Some cameras boast of having “digital zooms,” but that just means the camera can crop the image down — not actually zoom in closer to the subject. For shooting close-ups, make sure your camera also has a macro focus mode.

DON’T LAG

One of the most frustrating problems with some digital cameras is a thing called lagtime, or the amount of time the camera takes to shoot the picture once you’ve pressed the button. It might not seem like a big deal, but even a second of lagtime is a big bummer when shooting action shots.

“If you’re really out there trying to capture moments, you don’t want lag time,” Rich says.

Pick a camera with a burst mode that lets you shoot multiple pictures in a row.

MAKE IT EASY ON ME

“Look for the most automated camera you can find,” Rich says. “It just makes your life easier.”

There’s nothing glorious about fiddling with manual controls, and fortunately many cameras let you choose from preprogrammed functions that will provide quality photos from most any environment or situation.

DURABILITY IS THE DEAL

If you plan to bring your camera on outings, look for one that is dust- and shock-resistant — maybe even waterproof if you’re around water a lot. If the camera says it’s weatherproof it should be able to handle rainstorms but not underwater photography. Also, some cameras can be paired with protective sleeves or cases for added durability.

“Most point-and-shoots are really designed to handle abuse,” he says.

WHAT IT COSTS

Prices continue to drop on digital cameras, so you should be able to find a quality one for less than $200. Look for better deals online but stay away from used cameras, like some you will find on eBay.

Digital cameras store images on memory cards (also known as flashcards). Your camera will probably come with one, but you’ll want to buy at least one or two extras so you can shoot lots of photos without always having to delete or download shots to empty your card. Rich recommends sticking with name-brand cards such as those made by Lexar and stick with flashcards with one gigabyte of memory or less.

“Don’t get lured into buying gigantic flash cards,” Rich warns. “It’s better to buy two. That way if one card breaks or gets wet, your pictures on the other card will be safe.”

"Digital cameras buying guide" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.