Spice up your fall decor with a super fun and easy faux stained-glass craft! Follow our simple step-by-step guide to make a cool pumpkin design, or choose from other awesome Halloween-themed templates like ghosts, bats, and candy.

This project is perfect for kids and teens who love to get creative — no special skills needed! You’ll have a blast making your own spooky artwork to bring some Halloween vibes to your space this fall.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Acrylic paint (black and other colors of your choosing)
• Aluminum foil
• Black permanent marker
• Bottle of clear glue
• Bottle of white glue
• Cup of water
• Glass or plastic picture frame
• Paintbrushes
• Paper plate
• Paper towel
• Design template
• Rubbing alcohol
• Toothpick
• Ruler
• Gloves

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE FAUX STAINED GLASS

STEP 1: Download and print out one of the templates below. You can also sketch out your own design on a piece of white paper, but make sure the paper is the same size as the glass.

STEP 2: While wearing gloves for safety, remove the glass from the frame and clean it using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Tape your design to the back of the glass. Trace the pumpkin onto the glass using a black permanent marker. Using the ruler, draw lines around the pumpkin to fill in the open space. Set aside.

STEP 3: Make the colors for your design. Mix a few drops of clear glue and your choice of acrylic paint onto a paper plate. Repeat this step for each color you use. The same plate can be used for multiple colors. Be sure to mix enough for each shape that you want to fill with that color.

STEP 4: Fill in your design using your paintbrushes. Optional: You can either remove the template from underneath your glass or leave it in place while you paint.

STEP 5: Add a few drops of black acrylic paint to the bottle of white glue. You might have to empty a small amount of glue into another container to make room for the paint. Close the bottle and shake it until the glue is completely black.

STEP 6: Trace over your design using the black glue mixture. Try to keep your hand as steady as possible. Use a toothpick to clean up your lines and to pop any air bubbles. If you make a mistake, wipe the area using the rubbing alcohol and a paper towel and simply repaint it. Let it dry overnight.

STEP 7: After your design is completely dry, put the glass back into the frame. Next, place a piece of crinkled foil (that fills the frame) behind the glass to give the design a stained-glass look. Put the frame backing in place and display your masterpiece for everyone to see.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of completed faux stained-glass art. If you have a photos of a SL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"How to Make a Faux Stained-Glass Pumpkin" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

With this simple project, you’ll be outside playing mini golf in no time. Build your course with any available combination of bricks, wood, aluminum siding … whatever works.

A backyard mini golf course is best played with a croquet set, because the balls are larger and easier to control, but golf equipment is fine, too, especially for advanced players.

No backyard? Try making a bottle-cap disc-golf game. You can also play mini golf online!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A DIY MINI GOLF COURSE

You or a neighbor might have some 2-by-4’s or a stack of cinderblocks behind the garage, or ask at a construction site if you can haul away some of their cast-off masonry and lumber. Go to a hardware store for everything else you need or to pick up a few extras.

Total cost for your backyard mini golf course depends on your own resourcefulness, the size of your course and the complexity of each hole. Common red cement bricks sell for as little as 22 cents apiece; count on buying at least 100. Also look for things like a roll of chicken wire (about $5), 20 gardening stakes ($6) and a few boards ($15 max.).

Innovation is the key. Experiment. You might build one mini golf hole in 15 minutes but invest an hour in the next, carefully aligning a series of ramps or cutting doors in a cardboard box.

There’s no need to mess up the yard — use a croquet stake, a wicket or even just a piece of duct tape on the ground as your “hole.”

Here are three classic mini golf designs to get you started.

THE MAZE: Par 5

Tools: None

Materials: About 43 bricks, five heavier cinderblocks

1. Begin at the entrance, setting bricks in two parallel lines. The central island of cinderblocks is angled so that golfers are directed toward the right side of the maze (and into the pocket trap, if they strike too hard).

2. The cinderblocks go wherever a player is expected to bank his shots, since they’ll withstand impact better.

3. The “short cut” to the left is barely wider than a ball and can be reached only with a perfect set-up. Otherwise, players continue around to the right, where they can get an excellent double-bank shot off the two blocks in back.

4. Note the second pocket trap and the four bricks stacked as a guard in front of the finish.

TUNNEL IN THE SKY: Par 4

Tools: Wire cutters or pliers and a saw

Materials: About 50 bricks, six cinderblocks, a 3-foot-long roll of wire, two 3-foot-by-1-foot planks, one leftover piece of plank

1. Loosen the wire roll so that it becomes a tube, more than big enough for a ball to go through. Secure the tube by bending in a few loose ends with wire cutters or pliers.

2. Carefully size your planks and assemble the tunnel, using twin towers of two cinderblocks each.

3. In front, the plank should rest on top of the block tower, creating a small lip, so balls drop slightly into the wire tube. In back, the second plank must be level with the top of the tower, so support it underneath with an extra cinderblock.

4. Arrange your bricks in channels on either end of the tunnel. The front is a simple L-shape, with a cinderblock embankment at the corner. The back is more wide open, with a “ricochet” plank or another cinderblock set below the downhill ramp.

JUMP BALL: Par 2

Tools: None

Materials: About 27 bricks, 5 1/2 cinderblocks, boards or plywood at least 6 feet by 2 feet.

1. Build a tower of three blocks, lean your ramp against it and set a few guide bricks on each side.

2. Try a few practice shots, testing for range.

3. Set the finish with 2 1⁄2 cinderblocks in a wall behind it as a backstop. Place the rest of the bricks to complete the square around the finish, leaving two narrow entrances on either side.

4. Make this mini golf hole more difficult — Par 4 — by elevating the front wall with extra material to prevent low balls from bouncing over.

This design puts the finish more than 20 feet from the ramp — have some fun launching a ball that far!

OTHER IDEAS FOR HOLES

Bumper Ball is any channel that has been randomly spiked to make a forest of obstacles. Use tent stakes, croquet wickets or gardening stakes.

The Chute is a variant of Tunnel in the Sky, with only one tower and ramp, using either five-inch drain pipe or a length of rain gutter to lead back to earth.

The Mousetrap is a big open-topped cardboard box, properly weighted down, with two or more doors cut into its face but only one way out.

Tidal Wave is a series of low ramps to jump across.

Volcano is a ramp that must be finessed, with the finish directly below the edge of the ramp.

Shotgun is a long open space with three narrow courseways on the far side, all but one of which are pocket traps.

The Long Maze might run to par 10 and is hilarious for croquet rules as players battle and hunt each other among the twists and turns.

SCORING AND RULES FOR BACKYARD MINI GOLF

Par is the term for the average number of stokes it takes to complete a golf hole. Always set par at a number that can reasonably be bested by one stroke. This score, one below par, is called a Birdie. On the Maze hole, if a player is able to get into the shortcut, he might finish in four strokes. Therefore, this design is a Par 5.

A backyard mini golf course can be played in many ways.

Golf rules means the player with the lowest total strokes is the winner.

Croquet rules means the first player to reach the end of the course takes the trophy — and by striking another player’s ball, you earn an extra turn (or you can use it to smack that ball into an unfavorable spot).

Before you start, set all rules in stone. If a ball shoots sideways off Tunnel in the Sky, can that player take a “drop” back inside the brick walls? Does that cost him an extra stroke? Or does he have to work all the way back around to the entrance? Is there a maximum number of strokes at each hole (at amusement parks, it’s usually six) or do you play on until you’re successful, no matter the challenge?

It’s your game — you make the rules.

"How to Build a Backyard Mini Golf Course" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

An empty tin can could help provide nesting sites for solitary bees. This bee hotel design mimics the types of structures they like to use. As pollinators, solitary bees help the environment thrive.

Want to make something more permanent? We also have step-by-step instructions for building a wooden bee house.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• 15 sheets of construction paper
• Can opener
• Empty tin can (at least 4 to 6 inches deep)
• Glue
• Pencil
• Ruler
• Scissors
• Tape
• Toilet paper or paper towel rolls
• Twigs or dry grass
• Two 12-inch pieces of string
• One 36-inch piece of string
• Art supplies to decorate (optional)

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO BUILD A BEE HOTEL

Step 1: Carefully use a can opener to remove the top of a tin can. Empty, clean and dry the inside. Optional: If you want to decorate your bee hotel, use art supplies before moving to the next step.

Step 2: Cut 15 sheets of construction paper in half. Make sure each piece is a bit shorter than the tin can.

Step 3: Roll your paper around a pencil and secure it with tape. Gently remove the pencil. Repeat this until you have about 30 rolls. Make more if needed.

Step 4: Cover the inside bottom of the can with glue, and stick the toilet paper roll inside. If you’re using a paper towel roll, cut it in half before inserting. Place the thinner tubes inside. The roll will help keep them snug. Don’t squish the tubes!

Step 5: Place the twigs or dry grass around the rolls in the open spaces. This helps hold everything in place and provides insulation.

Step 6: Tie a 12-inch piece of string around each end of the can. Pass the 36-inch piece of string between the can and each of the other pieces of string. Tie the ends together, forming a loop to hang your bee hotel.

Step 7: Time to hang your bee hotel! With an adult’s help, find a tree or bush in a sunny location. Ensure the branch holding the hotel is sturdy so it doesn’t fall. Carefully check the bee hotel regularly to clean out any debris or dead insects. Replace nesting materials if they become damaged or moldy.

Now that you’re done with your bee hotel, laugh at funny bee jokes, check out nature-related Eagle Scout projects, or learn more about insects.

"How to Use a Can to Make a Bee Hotel for Solitary Bees" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Create the perfect summer T-shirt with this easy step-by-step guide.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A TIE-DYE T-SHIRT

• A white T-shirt
• A tie-dye set (includes dye, gloves and rubber bands)
• A tarp or plastic sheet to keep your mess contained
• Gallon-sized plastic zip-top bag

WHAT YOU’LL DO

1. Tie It: Lay out the shirt on a flat surface. Pinch the middle with one hand and twist until the shirt makes a tight spiral shape. Use four rubber bands to segment the shirt into eight sections — like a pizza.

2. Dye It: Select the colors of dye you want to use. Put on the gloves. Add water to the prefilled bottles of dye and shake to mix them up. Squeeze each of the dye bottles onto the sections; each section should be a different color from the one next to it. Turn the shirt over and repeat the process on the back.

3. Dry It: When you’re finished dyeing, put the shirt in the zip-top bag and close it. Let it dry for up to 12 hours. Rinse the excess dye off the shirt with water, and then wash it by itself in the washing machine.

4. Wear It: Enjoy your perfect summer T-shirt, and don’t forget to send us a photo using the form below.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of completed T-shirts sent to us by Scout Life readers. If you have a photos of a SL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"How to Tie-Dye a Shirt in 4 Easy Steps" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Making a solar eclipse viewer out of a cereal box is a fun and safe way to see the solar eclipse on April 8, 2024. This viewer is called a pinhole projector because it shows the eclipse’s image through a small hole onto a surface. You’ll watch the eclipse’s projection instead of looking right at the sun.

Don’t have a cereal box on hand? Make this shoebox eclipse viewer instead!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A SOLAR ECLIPSE VIEWER

• Cereal box
• Piece of white paper
• Aluminum foil
• Tape
• Pin or a needle
• Pencil
• Scissors

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A SOLAR ECLIPSE VIEWER

Step 1: Insert the Viewing Screen

Using your pencil, trace the bottom of the box on the white paper. Trim it with scissors so it’ll fit the bottom of the cereal box.

Make two tape loops and place them on the back of the white paper.

Slide the paper into the bottom of the box. The tape should secure it in place. This paper will act as the screen where you’ll see the image of the eclipse.

Step 2: Prepare the Cereal Box

Cut two rectangular holes on the left and right sides of the top of the box. For most boxes, this will just require you to trim away the open flaps on each side. Leave the cardboard flaps in the center between the two holes.

Close the center flaps and secure them with tape if necessary.

Step 3: Cover One Hole with Aluminum Foil

Cut a piece of aluminum foil slightly larger than one of the rectangular holes on the top of the box. Tape the aluminum foil over one of the holes, ensuring it’s smooth and completely covers the opening.

Step 4: Create the Pinhole Projector

Use a pin or a needle to carefully poke a small hole in the center of the aluminum foil. This hole will project the image of the solar eclipse onto the paper inside the box.

Step 5: How to Use Your Solar Eclipse Viewer

Stand with your back to the sun. Do not look at the sun directly. Point the side with the aluminum foil towards the sun, allowing the sun’s rays to enter the box through the pinhole.

Look through the other hole you cut into the top of the box. You will see the projection of the eclipse on the white paper at the bottom of the box. Adjust the box’s angle and direction as needed to get a clear view.

TIPS FOR A BETTER EXPERIENCE USING YOUR SOLAR ECLIPSE VIEWER

Practice using your viewer before the eclipse to find the best method for viewing. The image of the sun will be small, so be patient while looking for it. You may need to slightly move the box around to focus the sun’s image.

Remember, never look directly at the sun without proper eye protection, even during an eclipse.

"How to Make a Solar Eclipse Viewer With a Cereal Box" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Looking directly at the sun can injure your eyes, but if you want to watch the eclipse, you can safely view it indirectly with this shoebox solar viewer.

Don’t have a shoebox on hand? Make this cereal box eclipse viewer instead!

This type of viewer is also known as a pinhole projection because the image of the eclipse is projected through the pinhole onto the viewing surface. You will be looking at a projection of the eclipse instead of looking directly at the sun.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A SOLAR ECLIPSE VIEWER

• Small box with a lid (A shoebox is perfect.)
• Small piece of aluminum foil
• Small sheet of white paper
• Utility knife or hobby knife
• Tape
• Needle or sharpened pencil

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A SOLAR ECLIPSE VIEWER

Step 1: Cut a 1-inch square hole in the lower right corner of your shoebox.

Step 2: Tape the foil over the square.

Step 3: Poke a pinhole in the center of the foil. The pinhole is where the sun will shine through.

Step 4: Tape a small piece of white paper inside of the box directly across from the foil-covered square. This is the projection screen where the image will appear.

Step 5: On the same side as the foil-covered square, cut another 1-inch square in the opposite corner. This is the viewing hole. You will be able to see the white paper through this hole.

Step 6: With the lid closed, stand with your back to the sun and look through the viewing hole. Focus the sunlight through the pinhole and onto the white paper.

Step 7: Personalize your solar eclipse viewer using wrapping paper, markers, paint and more before using it.

SAFETY FIRST: DO NOT LOOK DIRECTLY AT THE SUN

Looking directly at the sun is like using a magnifying glass to burn a piece of paper. The sunlight is focused onto the back of your eye. The film in the back of your eye is called the retina, and it can easily be damaged without your knowledge. The retina of your eye does not have pain receptors, so you won’t even feel the damage being done. You might not know that you have damaged your vision until much later.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of the completed project sent to us by Scout Life readers. If you have a photos of a SL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"How To Use a Shoebox To Make a Solar Eclipse Viewer" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Packs nationwide are gearing up for their annual Pinewood Derby. There are a variety of ways to make your Pinewood Derby car go faster. Explore the following tips to optimize your car’s performance and gain a competitive edge in an upcoming race.

BASIC GUIDELINES FOR PINEWOOD DERBY CAR DESIGN

The possibilities are endless when it comes to picking a shape for your Pinewood Derby car. Before you begin, consider the following general guidelines:

Avoid Pointed Noses: A pointed nose will make it difficult for your Pinewood Derby car to rest on the pin at the starting gate. It may also cause your Pinewood Derby car to get bumped around when the pin drops, and it can create problems for electronic timing systems at the finish line.

Weight Distribution: Leave ample wood in the rear of the Pinewood Derby car so you can place additional weight there. Concentrate the majority of the weight in the rear for optimal performance.

Maximum Weight: Aim for the maximum allowable weight, typically limited to 5 ounces in most races. If your car falls short of this weight, strategically add coins or other weights to meet the requirement.

Clarity in Orientation: Clearly distinguish the front and back of your Pinewood Derby car. In many races, the race officials — not you — will actually place each Pinewood Derby car on the track. Sometimes the officials put the Pinewood Derby car on the track backward because they can’t tell which end is which.

Aerodynamic Design: Select a design that facilitates smooth airflow over and around the Pinewood Derby car body. Pinewood Derby cars with aerodynamic profiles go faster.

See photo galleries of hundreds of Pinewood Derby car designs.

10 STEPS FOR DESIGNING AND BUILDING YOUR PINEWOOD DERBY CAR

You don’t have to strive for the fastest Pinewood Derby car to have fun competing in your Pinewood Derby. But if you and a helpful adult are willing to put in the extra time and effort, these tips are for you.

1. Bake the Block: Start your Pinewood Derby car project by baking the wood block at 250 degrees for two hours. This removes moisture and lightens the block, allowing you to place more weight at the rear of the car where you actually want it.

2. Crafting the Design: Outline your Pinewood Derby car on paper, cut it out, and affix it to the wood block.

Remember, a rectangular car is not an aerodynamic design. The most basic aerodynamic design is a simple wedge. If you don’t have time to design a complex car, a wedge will work just fine.

Download a Pinewood Derby car template PDF to help you create your design.

3. Rough Cut the Design: Use a coping saw or enlist the help of a responsible adult with a power tool to cut out the rough shape of your Pinewood Derby car.

4. Shape Your Car: Smooth edges and shape your car using sandpaper. An adult can assist with a rotary tool or other shaping tools.

5. Sand and Paint Creatively: Reduce friction by smoothing the car’s surface and paint an awesome design to make it look great.

How to paint your Pinewood Derby car to give it a shiny finish.

6. Axles and Wheels Alignment: Make sure they are aligned perfectly straight. You can test the alignment of your axles by pushing your car across a smooth floor or table. It should roll smoothly in a straight line.

— Consider a Three-Wheeler: Raise one wheel about 1/16 inch higher so it never actually touches the track. Less friction = more speed. Rules vary from pack to pack, so make sure to check your pack’s Pinewood Derby rules to make sure three wheelers are allowed in your race.

— Extend the Wheelbase: Maximize the distance between front and rear wheels. Again, make sure this is allowed in your race.

Learn about polishing Pinewood Derby axles and wheels to reduce friction.

7. Secure Axles with Glue: Glue the axles firmly in their holes to ensure that they stay perfectly placed, but make sure you don’t get glue on your wheels.

8. Strategic Weight Addition: Remember to make your Pinewood Derby car as heavy as the rules allow. In general, it’s best to place weight to the rear of your car because a heavier rear increases speed.

Learn scientific Pinewood Derby speed tips from a former NASA engineer.

9. Use Graphite: Add graphite or another dry lubricant to reduce friction. The less friction between the body and wheel, the better.

10. Have fun! And finally, remember the most important rule of a Pinewood Derby is that it’s supposed to be fun. While you should always strive to do your best, don’t get caught up in winning or having the fastest car. Just enjoy the ride.

Adapted from the book “Pinewood Derby Speed Secrets,” DK Publishing, $12.95 softcover.

"How to Make a Fast Pinewood Derby Car" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

My Cub Scout son and I decided we would take the science principles I used while building stuff at NASA and apply them to making his Pinewood Derby car.

Take a look at some of those science principles in this video and check out my list of the most important steps for making fastest Pinewood Derby car possible.

SEVEN STEPS FOR MAKING THE FASTEST PINEWOOD DERBY CAR

1. Max out your Pinewood Derby car’s weight at 5 ounces

Get as close as possible to the car’s maximum weight (usually 5 ounces) and make sure the heaviest part is about 1 inch in front of the rear axle. This is the most important step. Science shows if you do this correctly, you will beat a Pinewood Derby car built exactly the same — except with the weight toward its front — by 4.6 car lengths. It works because the farther back the weight is, the more potential energy you have because your center of mass is higher up on the track. (Don’t put it too far back, or your Pinewood Derby car will become unstable and pop a wheelie.)

2. Use lightweight wheels.

Using non-standard wheels is illegal in some packs’ races, but if it’s not in yours, this is a must-do step that will give you a 2.1-car-length advantage at the finish line versus a car with normal wheels. It works because heavy wheels take away from the kinetic energy (the energy something has due to its motion), which makes the Pinewood Derby car slower.

3. Use bent polished axles.

Bending your Pinewood Derby car axles with a bending tool will make the wheels ride up against the nailhead, which creates less friction than if the wheel is bouncing around and rubbing against the wooden Pinewood Derby car body. See video above for details.

4. Railride.

Railriding means you steer your Pinewood Derby car into the center guide track just enough that you keep the car from bouncing around. This helps reduce friction and saves energy for speed. See video for details.

5. Create a Pinewood Derby car that is reasonably aerodynamic

An aerodynamic Pinewood Derby car’s design cuts down on drag caused by air. No need to get crazy here, but simply having a wedge-shaped Pinewood Derby car instead of the standard block out of the box will equal a 1.4-car advantage at the finish line.

6. Ride on three wheels by raising one wheel off the track.

You will move faster if you have to get only three wheels rotating, giving you a 1.1-car advantage over an identical Pinewood Derby car riding on four wheels. (Check your pack’s Pinewood Derby rules to make sure this is allowed in your race.)

7. Use lots of graphite.

Graphite is the best way to lubricate your wheels and axles. There isn’t a big difference in types of graphite, so buy the cheap stuff and use as much as possible. Be sure to get plenty around each wheel and on the axle.

THE WINNING CONCLUSION!

It works! After my research, my son and I wanted to do one final test to prove that this is a good list. So we built a simple Pinewood Derby car using this list in 45 minutes, and we beat the fastest Pinewood Derby car in our local race by two car lengths. Turns out, science works!

Mark Rober worked as a mechanical engineer at NASA for nine years. During this time, he worked on Curiosity, a car-sized robot that left Earth in 2011 and landed on Mars in 2012. Mark is well-known for his YouTube videos on science, engineering and gadgets.

"Use Science to Build the Fastest Pinewood Derby Car" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

This 2-pound kit could save your life for at least three days in the wild. We suggest storing these items in a single zip-close bag.

You can find many of these items at your local Scout Shop or at www.scoutshop.org

Remember, a survival kit does not replace the 10 Scout Outdoor Essentials.

STAY SHARP: You should have a pocketknife during most outings, anyway, but never go into the wild without a dependable, easy-to-use blade.

https://www.scoutshop.org/outdoors/tools-accessories/knives.html

TAKE COVER: Even in wilderness survival situations, you need a good shelter. A tube tent is a great lightweight option that’s easy to pack and very affordable.

https://www.scoutshop.org/outdoors/campsite-equipment/tents.html

SLEEP WARM: It’s not a long-term option, but an emergency sleeping bag will keep you warm and takes up only a few square inches of space.

https://www.scoutshop.org/outdoors/campsite-equipment/sleeping-bags.html

FIRE SOURCE AND TINDER: Store fresh strike-anywhere matches in a waterproof case to get a blaze going fast. Throw in a handful of dryer lint or petroleum-jelly-covered cotton balls as tinder.

https://www.scoutshop.org/outdoors/health-safety/fire-starters.html

SIGNALING: Get the attention of rescuers with a signal mirror and high-quality whistle.

https://www.scoutshop.org/outdoors/health-safety/emergency-gear.html

INSECT CONTROL: A pack of insect-repellent towelettes takes up far less space than a spray bottle.

https://www.scoutshop.org/outdoors/health-safety/insect-repellant.html

SHINE BRIGHTLY: A small LED flashlight will provide plenty of visibility in unknown environments. Don’t forget fresh batteries, too.

https://www.scoutshop.org/outdoors/lighting/flashlights.html

WRAP IT UP: We suggest wrapping a length of duct tape (a few feet) around your flashlight handle.

DRINK UP: Safe water is scarce in the wild. Make the water you do find safer to consume with a personal water filter and potable water tablets.

https://www.scoutshop.org/outdoors/camp-kitchen/purification.html

Excerpt from The Scouting Guide to Survival, the first in a series of Scouting guides from Skyhorse Publishing.

"How to Make a DIY Survival Kit" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Sandpaper and paint can turn a block of wood into a sleek Pinewood Derby racer that looks as smooth as steel. The trick is using the right materials and allowing plenty of time.

Don’t wait until the last minute! For best results, you’ll need to start at least a week or two before the race. You’ll also need help from a trusted adult.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO PAINT A PINEWOOD DERBY CAR

• Coarse, medium and fine-grit sandpaper
• Liquid sanding sealer (sold at hobby shops)
• Enamel paint
• Decals or self-stick numbers (sold at stationery stores or hobby shops)
• Clear gloss paint
• Floor wax paste

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO PAINT A PINEWOOD DERBY CAR

Step 1: Begin by wrapping sandpaper around a block of wood 1 inch by 3 inches. Without a block of wood for support, sandpaper can leave dips and gullies in the Pinewood Derby car’s body.

Round the corners of the pinewood block with coarse sandpaper. Change to medium-grit paper for smoothing rough edges. Finish with fine sandpaper to remove any sanding marks.

Step 2: Just painting the pinewood won’t hide the wood’s grain. Apply two coats of liquid sanding sealer. Let the sealer dry overnight before sanding it lightly with fine-grit paper.

If the grain still shows, apply two more coats of sealer. Let it dry overnight and sand again. Repeat the process until the grain disappears.

Step 3: Choose a color for your Pinewood Derby car. Then apply two to three coats of enamel paint to the car’s body. Spraying the model with paint from an aerosol can is easier than using a brush.

If you use a brush, dip only the lower third of the brush into the paint. Use single, smooth strokes instead of dabbing the paint on the car. Blend the strokes so they can’t be seen.

Step 4: Place a race number on the Pinewood Derby car. Seal and protect it by spraying the entire car with clear gloss paint. Some clear paints might make the numbers curl. To make sure yours works, test it on a decal or number stuck to scrap plastic before spraying your car.

Step 5: Let the clear paint dry for at least a week. Then cover the Pinewood Derby car with floor wax paste and polish to a high gloss. The wax will protect the car and help give your racer the look of shining steel.

JUST DO YOUR BEST

This project requires help from an adult and lots of time and patience.

Instead, you can always just paint your Pinewood Derby car with one layer of paint from your local hobby store. It takes only a few minutes, and it still looks great.

The important thing is to have fun and do your best.

"How to Paint a Pinewood Derby Car to Give It a Glossy Finish" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

When the race is over, enter the winner’s circle by building this display for your Pinewood Derby or model car.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A DISPLAY

• Tape measure
• Ruler
• Saw
• Lumpy rock
• Screwdriver
• Wood screws
• Hammer
• Narrow chisel
• Scissors
• Utility Knife (Optional)
• Wood glue
• 3/4″ x 10″ x 10 1/2″ board
• 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ board
• 12″ x 12″ cork board
• 1/2″ x 2″ x 9″ wood strip (optional)
• 1/2″ x 1″ x 9″ wood strip (optional)
• Some black paint and white paint
• Paint brush

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A DISPLAY

1. With the help of an adult, cut out the two boards and whack the small board with a rock. This will make the board rough like asphalt.

2. Chisel out four shallow depressions for the car’s wheels to sit in.

3. Glue and screw the two boards together using the three screws. Paint the whole thing black, or any color you like.

4. Use scissors to carefully cut the cork board into 1 1/2″ squares. Or, with an adult’s help, you can cut the cork with a utility knife.

5. Paint half the corkboard squares black and the other half white.

6. Glue the cork squares to the back of the display.

7. You can place or pin whatever you want on the completed stand. Your Pinewood Derby car or trophy would look great on the stand. Display it on a flat surface or hang it on the wall.

HOW TO MAKE WALL MOUNTING BRACKETS FOR YOUR DISPLAY

You can use this trick to securely mount almost any heavy, flat object to a wall.

Cut the 1/2″ x 2″ x 9″ wood strip lengthwise at a 45-degree angle. Mount one piece about 1″ below the top of the back of the display and the other to the wall as shown. Attach the 1/2″ x 1″ x 9″ wood strip about 1″ from the bottom of the back of the display. The display will then slide firmly onto the wall.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of the completed project sent to us by Boys’ Life readers. If you have a photos of a BL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"How to Make a Pinewood Derby Car Display" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Playing the dreidel game is a fun tradition during the Jewish festival of Chanukah (also spelled Hanukkah). A dreidel is a four-sided spinning top, where each side has a different Hebrew letter. Usually, it’s made of wood, plastic, or clay. But you can make your own paper dreidel using the pattern below. It’s a fun way bring some creativity to the holiday festivities!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Paper or cardstock
• Glue
• Sharpened pencil
• Tape
• Markers or crayons to decorate (optional)

HOW TO MAKE YOUR PAPER DREIDEL

Step 1: Download and print this dreidel pattern on an 8 1/2 x 11-inch sheet of paper or cardstock.

Step 2: Use your markers or crayons to color or decorate your dreidel.

Step 3: Carefully cut around the outside edge of the pattern.

Step 4: Fold the pattern along the dotted lines.

Step 5: Apply glue to each tab and paste the dreidel into shape. It should form a cube at the top and an upside-down pyramid at the bottom.

Step 6: Poke the sharpened pencil through the top and out the bottom. You can use tape or glue to hold the pencil in place.

HOW TO PLAY THE DREIDEL GAME

A Hebrew letter is printed on each side of the dreidel. The four letters stand for the Hebrew words Nes Gadol Hayah Sham. This means, “A great wonder happened there.”

To play, each player needs some candies or pennies. Each player puts one into the “pot.” Everyone takes turns spinning the dreidel. If the dreidel falls on:

• נ‎ (Nun) — Don’t take anything
• ג (Gimmel) — Take everything in the “pot”
• ה‎ (Hay) — Take half the “pot”
• ש‎‎‎ (Shin) — Put one back into the “pot”

The player with the most candies or pennies at the end wins.

Information in this article was provided by the National Jewish Committee on Scouting. Download their Chanukah Program Helps for more resources and fun activities.

"How to Make a Paper Dreidel for Chanukah" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

A monkey paw knot is typically used to weigh down a rope, but it can also be a fun holiday ornament. Make these decorations as gifts for friends and family.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED FOR HOMEMADE JIG

• Four 4-by-4-inch cardboard pieces
• Craft glue (optional: rubber bands)
• 4 chopsticks or pencils
• Tape
• Small screw (optional)

WHAT YOU’LL NEED FOR MONKEY PAW

• 10-foot paracord in a holiday color (4 millimeters thick)
• Pingpong ball
• Clothespin

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A HOLIDAY ORNAMENT

STEP 1. Make a homemade jig. Watch the video below for step-by-step instructions. This will help with making the monkey paw ornament.

STEP 2. Clip about 3 inches of rope to one of the jig legs using a clothespin. This is your starting point.

STEP 3. Next, wrap the longer end of the rope clockwise around the outside of the jig legs six times.

STEP 4. Take the rope’s working end and cross it over the top of the pingpong ball going toward you. Next, thread the rope underneath the ball, going away from you. Repeat six times.

STEP 5. Rotate your jig clockwise 45 degrees. Thread the working end downward between the ball and the loops you’ve already created. Next, thread it through the bottom and pull it upward between the ball and loops on the opposite side. Repeat six times.

STEP 6. Carefully remove the paw from the jig to tighten. Starting with the last wrap, push the rope up toward the center. (This will form a loose loop.) Keep feeding your rope through your knot to tighten it by pulling each loop downward and up. Make sure none of your loops overlap.

STEP 7. Make a knot with the loose ends to form a bigger loop so the ornament can hang on your tree, door, etc.

"Use the Monkey Paw Knot to Make a Holiday Ornament" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Fall is here! You can carve a pumpkin — or make one yourself. Here’s how to make a fabric pumpkin.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A FABRIC PUMPKIN

• Craft glue
• Embroidery floss (available at craft stores)
• Fabric
• Sewing needle
• Ruler or measuring tape
• Poly-fil (available at craft stores)
• Scissors
• A stick or craft stick (to make the stem)
• Thread

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A FABRIC PUMPKIN

STEP 1. Measure your fabric. Measurements will vary depending on the size of pumpkin you want (a small would be 6-by- 12 inches and a medium 8-by-16 inches). To get a taller pumpkin, increase the width. For a wider pumpkin, increase the length. Next, cut it out. The cut fabric should be rectangular.

STEP 2. Fold the fabric in half horizontally inside out. It should form a square. Next, double-thread a sewing needle with about an arm’s length of thread. Watch this video for instructions:

Tie a knot at the ends of the thread. Starting at one end of the open side, weave the needle through your fabric with small, even stitches. Continue this method until you’ve sewn two sides. Once you reach the end, cut and tie the thread.

STEP 3. Turn your fabric outside in, and stuff the inside to your liking. Once it’s stuffed, sew this side closed using the same method in step 2. Pull the thread tightly, and tie a knot to close the top. Trim the excess thread.

STEP 4. Using the embroidery floss, sew the pumpkin ridges. Double-thread your needle, and tie a knot on the end. Thread the needle through the bottom of the pumpkin and up through the top. Next, pull the thread over the side of the pumpkin, pulling it tight and back down to the bottom. Repeat this step to create four ridges. Alternate the sides each time.

STEP 5. Fluff your pumpkin and create your stem with a small stick or craft stick. Use the craft glue to glue your stem in place. Let dry for about 30 minutes.

"How to Make a Fabric Pumpkin" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You don’t need four burners and a gas line to make some great-tasting trail food. All you need is plenty of sunlight. Make your own solar cooker and feed the whole group. Solar ovens work by bouncing sunlight off a reflective surface into a container. The hotter the container, the faster your food will cook. It’s easy to make—and cheap.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A SOLAR COOKER:

• Black paper
• Foil
• Glue
• Marker
• Plastic wrap
• Ruler
• Scissors
• Skewer
• Square pizza box
• Tape
• Utility knife

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A SOLAR OVEN:

STEP 1: Use a ruler and marker to outline the top of the pizza box about 1 inch inward from each edge. This will create a square on top of the box.

STEP 2: Carefully cut the front and sides of the square. Leave the back attached. Fold back the flap.

STEP 3: Line the inside of the square flap with foil, and glue it down shiny side up. Keep the foil as smooth as possible. Fold and glue down any excess foil to the back of the flap, or trim it to fit.

STEP 4: Repeat Step 3 to line the bottom of the box. Next, glue a sheet of black paper on top of the foil. This will help your oven absorb heat.

STEP 5: Fold back the flap. Cover the opening with a layer of plastic wrap. Using tape, attach the wrap to the 1″ sides on top of the pizza box. Make sure there are no holes in the plastic wrap. The opening needs to be sealed completely. Optional: You can also line the inside of the opening with plastic wrap to ensure air won’t get through.

STEP 6: It’s time to cook! Once you have your food (s’more, cookies, etc.) inside your oven on a piece of foil or small aluminum pan, close the box. On one side, place the tip of a wooden skewer between the closed lid and the edge of the box. Tape the other tip of the skewer to the square flap to help prop it up.

STEP 7: Place your solar cooker outside with the flap angled directly at the sun. This will let the foil reflect the sun and cook your food. Time will vary depending on the outside temperature, the sun and the dish you decide to cook.

TRY IT OUT

Solar cooking takes a little practice. Try this easy recipe first:

SOLAR OVEN S’MORES

Ingredients:

• Graham crackers
• Milk chocolate bars
• Marshmallows

Place graham crackers next to each other on piece of foil. Top each cracker with a piece of chocolate and a marshmallow. Put the foil in the center of your solar oven. When the marshmallow is melted and gooey, take out the crackers and add the second layer of graham crackers on top to complete it.

"How to Make a Solar-Powered Oven for Outdoor Cooking" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Want to beat the summer heat and have a blast right in your own backyard? Make a homemade backyard sprinkler system for kids that will everyone cool and entertained all summer long.

This fun DIY project is made from affordable and easy-to-find PVC pipes, making it a budget-friendly solution for some watery fun. Whether you’re having a family gathering, hosting a party, or simply seeking to cool off outdoors, this backyard water park is guaranteed to be a hit with everyone!

Have you built it? Make sure to send us a photo.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A HOMEMADE BACKYARD SPRINKLER

• Five 3⁄4″ x 10′ PVC pipes

Following the cutting diagram below, cut the following lengths from the five 3⁄4″ x 10′ PVC pipes:

• Eight 36″ pieces
• Six 24″ pieces
• Four 12″ pieces
• 12 10″ pieces

The following are 3⁄4″ fittings:

• Four 90-degree elbows
• 12 T-connections
• Three end caps
• Six 3⁄4″ to 1⁄2″ reducer Ts
• One hose connector

The following are 1⁄2″ fittings:

• Six 1⁄4 pattern shrub sprinkler heads
• Six 6″ cut-off risers

• Pencil
• Measuring tape
• Fine-tooth saw or pipe cutter
• PVC glue
• Sandpaper
• Eye protection

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO BUILD YOUR BACKYARD SPRINKLER

1. Follow the cutting diagram below and cut all the pieces to length. Sand the ends of each piece.

2. Glue together the four 6′ vertical uprights. Connect the uprights with 2′ braces. These are the sides of the sprinkler’s frame.

3. Complete the horizontal ground support legs by gluing on the 1′ end pieces. Glue on the end caps and hose connector.

4. Glue together the top two 5′ cross pieces. Connect them with two 2′ braces.

5. Glue the assembled 5′ top section to the 6′  vertical leg assembles. Screw in the six cut-off risers and shrub sprinkler heads.

6. Attach a water hose, and your homemade backyard sprinkler for kids is complete. Remember to conserve water. Always follow local water restrictions and use this sprinkler in an area where you’ll be watering the grass while you play.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of the completed backyard sprinkler project sent to us by Scout Life readers. If you have a photos of an SL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"How to Build a PVC Sprinkler for Summertime Fun" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Father’s Day is coming up. Show dad you care with a do-it-yourself Father’s Day gift.

GET CRACKIN’ WITH THIS PEANUT BRITTLE

Dad will love this homemade peanut brittle.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE PEANUT BRITTLE:

• 1 cup of roasted peanuts
• 1 cup of sugar
• ½ cup of light corn syrup
• 1 tablespoon of melted butter or margarine
• 1 teaspoon of vanilla
• 1 teaspoon of baking soda
• Baking sheet
• Pot holders
• Whisk
• Spatula
• Large microwave-safe bowl
• Cooking spray or stick of butter
• Ribbon and tag
• Clear gift bag

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE PEANUT BRITTLE:

1. Grease the cookie sheet with cooking spray. You can also use margarine or butter.

2. Mix the sugar and corn syrup in the microwave-safe bowl.

3. Microwave for about 3 minutes or until very bubbly. Use the pot holders to remove the hot bowl.

4. Quickly stir in the melted butter and peanuts. Cook for roughly 2 more minutes or until light brown.

5. Stir in the baking soda and vanilla.

6. Pour quickly all around on the cookie sheet let it cool.

7. Break brittle into large pieces. Place it in the bag, and add the ribbon and tag.

BOLT BOTTLE OPENER

Glass bottles can be tricky to open, so this cool tool is sure to come in handy.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A BOTTLE OPENER:

• Scrap of wood about 1″ thick
• Nut and bolt ¾” longer than thickness of wood
• Drill
• Saw
• Sandpaper
• Safety goggles

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A BOTTLE OPENER:

1. Wear safety goggles and cut the wood to about 9-by-2 inches and sand it smooth.

2. Drill a bolt-sized hole through the wood about 1″ from an end.

3. Place the bolt through the hole. Allow the bolt head to stick out about ¾” from the wood. Tighten the nut onto the bolt on the back of the wood.

KING OF THE GRILL WITH THIS TASTY BBQ SAUCE

Embrace your inner chef and make this tasty BBQ sauce in a jar.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE BBQ SAUCE:

• 1 empty jar with lid
• ½ cup of ketchup
• ¼ cup of water
• ¼ cup of white vinegar
• 1½ teaspoons of brown sugar
• 1½ teaspoons of mustard
• ¼ teaspoon of salt
•  1⁄8 teaspoon of pepper
•  1⁄8 teaspoon of garlic powder
• Gift paper, string and gift tag

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE BBQ SAUCE:

1. Pour the ingredients into the jar.

2. Close tightly and shake.

3. The gift paper goes over the lid, and a personalized tag makes it special.

GET DAD ORGANIZED WITH A WALL ORGANIZER

Dad will bungee-jump for joy with this useful wall organizer.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE AN ORGANIZER:

• Board about ½” thick and at least 2′ long
• Bungee cord at least 2½’ long
• Saw
• Sandpaper
• Paint or wood stain
• Drill
• Staple gun and staples
• Matches or lighter
• Scissors
• Hammer
• Picture-hanging kit
• Rubber gloves, paint mask and safety goggles

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE AN ORGANIZER:

1. Wear safety goggles and cut the board to 2′ length. Drill holes through the board about 1″ in from each end. Make the holes slightly bigger than the bungee cord. Sand smooth.

2. Paint or stain the board and let it dry. Wear paint mask and gloves while painting.

3. Cut the hooks off the bungee cord and trim it down to 2½’. Melt the ends of the cord with a match or lighter so they won’t fray.

4. Pull the cord through the holes. Staple down one end of the cord on the back of the board. Stretch it a little, and then staple down the other end. Hammer in staples as needed. Attach the picture-hanging kit to the back of the board.

LAPTOP STAND/COOLER BECAUSE HOT LAPTOPS = NOT COOL!

Laptops need air circulation, so make dad a PVC laptop stand.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A LAPTOP STAND:

• 3′ of ¾” PVC pipe
• Six 90-degree elbows of the same diameter
• PVC glue
• Hacksaw
• Sandpaper
• Spray paint that bonds to plastic
• Paint mask and gloves
• Measuring tape
• Felt pen

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A LAPTOP STAND:

1. Cut the pipe into the following pieces: One piece 10½” long, two pieces 7½” long and two pieces 3½” long.

2. Sand rough edges. Paint the pieces and let them dry. Be sure to wear paint mask and gloves while painting.

3. Assemble and glue the sections, pressing them firmly in place.

"5 Homemade Gifts for Father’s Day" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Mother’s Day is coming up. Show Mom she’s the best with one of these handmade gifts.

BUILD-A-BAG

Make Mom this fancy purse out of a placemat.

What You’ll Need:

• A durable placemat in Mom’s favorite colors
• Heavy-duty thread
• A needle that can handle thick thread
• Scissors
• Sewing pins

What You’ll Do

1. With the placemat vertical and front side down, fold the bottom ¾ of the way up to the top.

2. Pin along the doubled-up parts of the sides.

3. Sew along the pins to make a pouch. (Use a sewing machine, or hand-stitch with heavy thread.) Fold down the top to close the bag

KEY TO MOM’S HEART

This handy leather tassel key chain is sure to make Mom happy.

What You’ll Need:

• One piece of soft, thin leather at least 3½” x 12″
• Sharp scissors
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Key ring
• Any glue made for leather
• Rubber band

What You’ll Do:

1. Measure, mark and cut the leather into one piece 3½” x 11″ and another piece 1½” x ¼”.

2. Make a pencil line 1 inch in from an edge all along the biggest piece.

3. Make even cuts along this strip up to the pencil line. (3⁄16″-wide cuts should work fine.)

4. Fold the small piece of leather over the key ring and glue it to one end of the uncut edge of the strip.

5. Squeeze a small line of glue along the middle of the uncut edge.

6. Starting at the key chain end, roll the strip up tight. Keep the uncut edge even at the top. Be sure to glue down the end.

7. Use the rubber band to hold it in place while it dries.

A LOVING PATH

Brighten Mom’s garden with these mosaic steppingstones.

What You’ll Need:

• Two disposable aluminum 9-inch cake pans (not pie pans)
• 10-pound bag of quick-setting concrete mix like Quikrete
• Colorful tiles, pebbles, glass flat marbles, bottle caps or broken pottery
• 2 to 2½ cups water
• Bucket (at least 10-quart size)
• Large metal spoon or trowel
• Newspaper
• Cardboard (two pieces at least 2 feet x 2 feet)
• Paper towels
• Dust mask, goggles and rubber gloves

What You’ll Do:

1. Before getting started, put on the goggles, dust mask and gloves. Work outdoors on newspaper. Mix the 2 cups of water with Quikrete in the bucket. Work fast. Add the remaining ½ cup of water on dry spots if needed.

2 . Put the pans on level cardboard. Scoop Quikrete into pans and smooth the top

3. Let sit 20 minutes.

4. Push the decorations deep down into the Quikrete.

5. Wipe the rim clean.

6. Let sit unmoved for 2-3 days.

7. Peel off pans and clean decorations with damp paper towels.

8. Place finished stepping stones level with the ground.

BUILD-A-GARDEN

Mom will flip over this unique potted garden!

What You’ll Need:

• 5- to 6-foot piece of rebar steel rod
• Sledgehammer
• Clay pots
• Potting soil
• Small plants
• Measuring tape
• Pencil

What You’ll Do:

1. Measure and mark 2 feet on the rebar.

2. Hammer the rebar into the ground up to the mark.

3. Thread the largest pot down the rod to the ground.

4. Fill it with soil packed down to 1 inch below the top.

5. Add the next pot, tipping it onto the soil below.

6. Add additional pots, each resting on the rim below.

7. Fill the pots with plants and damp soil. Leave a 1-inch space at the top of each pot so the soil won’t wash out when watering. Keep the soil level.

KEEPING TIME

Help keep Mom on time with this hoop clock.

What You’ll Need:

• 12-inch embroidery hoop
• Clock kit from a craft store
• ½ yard of fabric
• Scrap cardboard pieces
• 1 AA battery
• Ruler
• Scissors
• Pencil
• Hobby knife
• Glue
• Clothes iron
• Tape

What You’ll Do:

1. Lay the hoop on top of the fabric and draw a circle that is about 2 inches wider than the hoop.

2. Cut out the fabric circle. Iron out any wrinkles.

3. Unscrew the hoop and take it apart. Lay the fabric circle over the smaller hoop. Place the bigger hoop over this. Stretch the fabric between the two hoops. Screw down tight.

4. Trim off excess fabric.

5. Cut two strips of cardboard and wedge them tight into the back of the hoop. Tape together.

6. With the hobby knife, cut a small hole through the cardboard and fabric in the center of the hoop.

7. Follow the clock kit directions, pressing the clock through the cardboard and fabric, and then attaching the hands in front.

8. Glue or tape the cardboard/clock assembly to the back rim.

HEART NECKLACE

Pull at Mom’s heartstrings with this one-of-a-kind leather necklace.

What You’ll Need:

• 3 feet of cord or leather lacing
• Tape measure
• Tape
• Scissors

What You’ll Do:

1. Tape the left end down. Work only with the right end.

2. Measure in 1 foot from the left end and make this loop.

3. Go under and then up and out of the loop, leaving extra on the bottom to form loop No. 1.

4. Go up over loop No. 2, and then back down, leaving small loop No. 3 on top. Keep going down under big loop No. 2, then down on top of loop No. 1.

5. Go up and under loop No. 1. Thread over, and then under center loop No. 2, and then over top loop No. 3.

6. Untape the left end. Pull on both ends, and then work inside the heart with your fingers to tighten it. Form the heart little by little. Pinch the bottom into a V.

7. Hold the two ends, make a loop and pull them through the loop to knot. Trim off excess.

"6 Handmade Gift Ideas for Mother’s Day" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You can use an old neckerchief (or any fabric you like) to make a fun coaster for your drinks.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A DRINK COASTER

• Fabric glue
• Construction paper or foam tile
• Ruler
• Scissors
• Neckerchief (or any fabric you like)
• Permanent marker
• Tape

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A DRINK COASTER

STEP 1. Trace a circle on a piece of paper using the mouth of a cup and cut it out.

STEP 2. Cut three 1-foot-by-1-inch strips from your neckerchief, which will make a coaster about 2 ½ inches wide — perfect for a standard water bottle. Before cutting, measure and draw a straight line on the neckerchief from top to bottom using the ruler and marker. The longer your strips are, the bigger your coaster will be.

STEP 3. Tie the three strips together with an overhand knot at one end. Tape the knotted end to the table and separate the loose strips.

STEP 4. Time to braid! Take the strip on the right and cross it over the middle strip. Then, cross the left strip over the right. Repeat this method until you get to the bottom, and then tie it together with a knot. Remember: The right strip will always go over the middle, and the left strip will always go over the right.

STEP 5. Starting at one end of the braid, cut off the excess fabric, leaving a little piece after the knot. Glue that end to the center of your circle. From there, apply more glue to the circle and twist the braid closely together until the circle is covered.

STEP 6. Let your coaster dry for about 20 minutes before using it.

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS

Watch the following videos to find out how to make your coaster bigger, how to add a hanging loop and how to make a coaster without a base.

How to make your coaster bigger: After you’ve glued the first braid to your base, cut off the excess fabric on one end of your second braid. Next, apply glue to your base where the first braid ends and attach braid two. Continue to apply glue and wrap the braid until it reaches the end.

How to add a hanging loop to your coaster: Once your coaster is glued to your base, take the shorter piece of fabric at the end and fold it in half. Next, wrap the longer piece of fabric tightly around the shorter piece, holding it in place. Wrap it twice and then apply a drop of glue. Wrap the longer strip one more time before applying another drop of glue. Wrap it one final time and allow your coaster to finish drying. Cut off any excess fabric once loop is formed.

How to make a coaster without a base: If you don’t want to use a base for your coaster, try out the handheld process. Place a drop of glue on one end of the braid and twist it. Apply a line of glue onto the braid before every twist. Repeat this process until you reach the end. Find a safe spot for it to dry.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED NECKERCHIEF COASTERS

Check out these photos of the completed project. If you have a photos of a SL How To Do It project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"How To Turn an Old Neckerchief Into a Drink Coaster" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Instead of getting rid of your old Scout Life issues, recycle them in a creative way!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE MAGAZINE WALL ART

• Canvas, construction paper or posterboard
• Cardboard
• Craft glue
• Old magazines
• Paper straw or pencil
• Scissors
• Tape
• Printable design (lion, flower, heart, etc.)
• Crayons, markers and paint (optional)

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE MAGAZINE WALL ART

Step 1: Print and cut out the design of your choice. Glue it on a thin piece of cardboard. Cut off any excess cardboard surrounding your design (ask a parent for help if needed).

Step 2: Tear out 25 magazine pages. Use more or fewer pages depending on the size of your design. Cut each page in half and set aside.

Step 3: Using your paper straw or pencil, tightly roll each of the half pages. Once rolled, tape the ends and center of the page to keep them from unraveling.

Step 4: Glue the rolls to your cutout design.

Tip: You may want to measure your roll to your design and trim the excess paper before gluing. Once it’s covered, let your design dry for about 10 minutes before turning it over and cutting off any extra pieces.

Step 5 (optional): Glue your design to a canvas, posterboard or piece of construction paper. You can leave the outer space blank or add background artwork using crayons, markers and paint.

Step 6: Find a place to display your artwork for everyone to see.

"How to Use Old Magazines to Make Wall Art" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Sledding is a super-fun winter activity, but you can do more with your sled than race downhill. Some sleds can make winter backpacking easier by helping haul your gear.

Polar explorer Eric Larsen, who has trekked to the north pole many times, says carrying gear in a sled or “pulk” is more efficient than carrying gear on your back.

“Not only do you not get as sweaty when you’re pulling your gear instead of carrying it,” Larsen tells SL, “but it’s easier to manage moisture and adjust layers.”

HOW TO MAKE A PULK

It’s easy to make any toboggan-style plastic sled part of your winter camping kit.

Step 1. Start with an inexpensive plastic kit. Drill holes (or ask a parent for help drilling holes) in the front rim so you can attach a rope on either side of the front of the sled. Reinforce the holes with metal hardware for durability.

Step 2. Then set up your tow ropes. Thread a rope through the holes on each side of the front rim of the sled.

If you’ll be traveling on uneven terrain, thread your ropes through a section of narrow PVC pipe — one piece of pipe per side. The PVC pipe helps give you the best control.

Finally, tie the end of each piece of rope to a carabiner. You can clip those carabiners to the waistbelt of your pack when you’re ready to tow the sled.

Step 3. For added control, cross your ropes when you attach them to your pack. Make sure the ropes are long enough so you’re not kicking the sled with your skis or snowshoes.

Larsen likes to make his sled ropes long enough so he can walk back to the sled without detaching it from his pack. He uses butterfly knots to make the rope sections longer or shorter. To learn how to tie this knot, visit go.scoutlife.org/butterflyknot or watch the video below.

Larsen also recommends that you don’t tie your sled to the back of your pack: “Make a bridle, and clip your sled rope carabiners near your hips where your pack’s load lifters come in so that you’re pulling with your center of gravity.”

HOW TO PACK YOUR BACKPACKING SLED

Sledding with your gear is less strenuous than carrying it, but it’s still possible to overdo it. Make good choices about what to bring, especially since you’re also weighed down with extra clothing to stay warm.

When packing your sled, distribute the weight to keep the sled stable and balanced. Put the heaviest gear on the bottom and toward the back. Put your lightest gear in the front. Larsen likes to keep extra mitts, goggles, an extra layer of clothes, water and snacks in a small bag at the front of the sled so he can get to them easily.

If you have access to a waterproof duffel, pack your gear in that. If not, pack your gear in heavy-duty contractor bags inside any duffel bag. Keep any gear you want to be able to access during the day in a daypack or small duffel, and secure both bags to the sled. Once your sled is loaded, wrap a tarp over your duffels to protect everything from the weather. Lace bungees or cord across the sled to secure your gear.

When you get to camp, you can use the tarp on the snow-covered ground to keep everything dry when you’re unloading. And when you’re on the trail, you can use your loaded sled as a chair when you take a break. If you have on skis, you can unclip yourself from your sled and back up — with a ski on either side of the sled — so you won’t have to take off your skis to take a rest. If you opt not to use PVC pipe, like Larsen, you won’t need to unclip.

RECOMMENDED SLEDS FOR FUN AND WINTER HIKING

“When it comes to backpacking sleds, the inexpensive solution is actually the best solution,” Larsen says. “A cheap sled will be light, easy to use and also fun when you get to camp.”

Strap a SUPERIO ROUND SNOW SLED ($20, superiobrand.com) to the outside of your pack, and when you get to an open hill, slip it off and hop on for a ride. The sled measures 24 inches across and is made with heavy-duty plastic. It also has hand grips on either side so you can hold on as you zip downhill. Superio also makes another round sled with elevated handles for $26.

To tow your gear, you’ll need a toboggan-style sled like the ERA GROUP EXPEDITION PRO UTILITY SLED ($70, eragroup.ca). This sled is designed for pulling gear, not for sliding. Its heavy-duty polyethylene plastic weighs just 5 pounds and comes with reinforced grommets. At 5 feet long and almost 2 feet across, you should be able to pack a lot of gear.

A cheaper sled can work just as well, like the FROST RUSH LARGE TOBOGGAN SLED ($30, machrus.com). It comes with predrilled holes for tow ropes and cutout handles that can be used to tie down gear. It has a slick bottom to help you glide across the snow as you ride on it.

GUIDE TO SAFE SLEDDING

When you go sledding, make sure the hill is safe and free of obstacles like rocks and trees. Even if the hill doesn’t have any obstacles, still wear a helmet. Have two separate paths: one for sledding down and one for walking back up.

For more info on winter sports safety, visit go.scoutlife.org/wintersports

"How to Use a Sled to Make a Pulk for Backpacking in the Snow" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

The holiday season is here! Celebrate with these sweet treats that you can make and decorate yourself. Don’t forget to scroll down for pro decorating tips!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE SUGAR COOKIES

• 5 ½ cups flour
• 2 tablespoons baking soda
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 cup salted butter, softened
• 3 cups white sugar
• 2 eggs
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• Holiday-shaped cookie cutters
• Nonstick foil
• Large bowl
• 2 cookie sheets for baking
• Mixer
• Cooling rack
• Rolling pin
• Whisk
• Spatula

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE ICING FOR DECORATING

• 1 cup powdered sugar
• Water
• Gel food coloring
• Small bowl
• Spoon
• Optional: sandwich bag, tape and scissors

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE SUGAR COOKIES

STEP 1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line two cookie sheets with foil.

STEP 2. In a large bowl, add flour, baking soda and baking powder. Stir with a wire whisk to sift. Set aside.

STEP 3. With a mixer, cream butter and sugar. Add eggs and vanilla. Next, slowly add dry ingredients until dough is well mixed.

STEP 4. Sprinkle some flour on your counter. Next, form a ball of dough approximately 3 inches, and roll the dough about 1⁄4″ thick using the rolling pin.

STEP 5. Use cookie cutters to cut dough into shapes. Place on prepared cookie sheets at least 1″ apart. Bake 8-10 minutes. Cookies should be light in color and soft to the touch.

STEP 6. Cool 2 minutes and move to the cooling rack using a spatula.

Cookie tips: Sugar cookies taste best when soft, not crispy. A cookie is baked when it no longer has a glass finish on the top.

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE ICING FOR DECORATING

STEP 1. Put powdered sugar in a small bowl. Add water 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring between each one to get a thick but movable consistency. Next, add two drops of food coloring and stir. Note: This recipe makes enough icing for one color.

STEP 2. Apply icing to cookies using a spoon. You can also put the icing in a piping bag or sandwich bag, twist it and tape it to close. Next, snip off a small hole from the tip of the bag. When you squeeze the bag, you can “draw” designs on your cookies. Repeat this step for each color you use.

Icing tips: With Christmas cookies, consider mixing one green batch and one red batch of icing. For Hanukkah cookies, consider one blue batch and one white batch of icing. Kwanzaa cookies require three batches of colors: red, green and black.

HOW TO DECORATE YOUR COOKIES

Check out some fun decorating methods and tips in these videos:

Decoration tips: Holiday-colored sprinkles add fun! Use candy googly eyes and take creativity to another level.

"How to Make and Decorate Holiday Sugar Cookies" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Use a PVC pipe to make an indestructible time capsule that will keep your treasures safe for years.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A TIME CAPSULE

• One pre-cut PVC pipe 4 inches in diameter (We recommend 1 foot in length, but you can make yours larger or smaller, depending on how much you want to store in the time capsule.)
• Two 4-inch plastic test plugs
• Items that represent you
• A retrieval date (when you will open it)
• A storage location
• Stickers, paint, duct tape and any other items to decorate the time capsule

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A TIME CAPSULE

Step 1: Gather items to store in your time capsule: action figures, toys, a local newspaper, your favorite magazine, a current photo, a sports card, a letter to yourself in the future, patches and anything else that represents you. Don’t include food or anything that might attract pests.

Step 2: Decorate your time capsule using stickers, paint, duct tape and other things you think look cool. Be sure to add your retrieval date on the outside. Mark your calendar with or make a note of your retrieval date.

Step 3: Construct the time capsule. Insert one of the plugs into an open end of the PVC pipe. Twist the wing nut until the plug is secured. Place all your items in the time capsule. When you’re finished, insert the other plug and twist the wing nut until the plug is secured.

Step 4: Store your new time capsule in an out-of-the-way location, such as under your bed or buried in your backyard.

"How to Make a Time Capsule" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Add a fun touch to your room décor with this crafty clothespin lamp!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A CLOTHESPIN LAMP

• 24 wooden clothespins (all one size, any color)
• Battery-powered LED lights (available at craft stores)
• Craft or fabric glue
• Parchment paper
• Tape (optional)
• Markers, paint, construction paper, fabric (optional)

WHAT YOU’LL DO

STEP 1. COVER YOUR WORK AREA WITH PARCHMENT PAPER. Crumple the parchment paper first to help keep it flat. You can also tape down the corners.

STEP 2. TAKE APART THE CLOTHESPINS by slowly and carefully twisting the wooden legs in opposite directions, removing the spring in the middle. Ask an adult for help if needed. Place the wooden and spring pieces into separate piles. You should have a total of 48 wooden legs.

STEP 3. MAKE A TRIANGLE USING THREE WOODEN LEGS. With the grooves facing inward, glue the thinner end of one leg to the thicker end of another. Continue this step until you have 16 triangles. Let your triangles dry for about 15 minutes.

STEP 4. BUILD YOUR LAMP. Put one triangle in the center of your workspace — this will be your base. Take another triangle and flip it in the opposite direction of the base. Glue it on top. Note: Each layer of the lamp should be oriented opposite to the one below it. This will help create openings for the light to shine through. Continue this step until you have 16 levels. Let your lamp dry for about 15 minutes.

STEP 5. INSERT YOUR LED LIGHTS INSIDE THE LAMP. Your lamp is ready to use!

STEP 6. DECORATE YOUR LAMP! You can use markers, paint, construction paper, fabric and more. You can also glue the spring pieces from the clothespins to your lamp instead of throwing them away.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of the completed project sent to us by Scout Life readers. If you have a photos of a SL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"How to Make a Clothespin Lamp" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

This fun magnetic device can help you increase coordination skills. Strengthen the small muscles in your hands and wrists as you create shapes and letters.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A MAGNETIC WAND

• 1 petri dish (available at big box stores)
• 1 craft stick
• 1 sheet of construction paper (any color except black)
• 7-8 inches of twine
• 1 magnet
• Scissors
• Iron filings (available at craft stores)
• Craft glue
• Markers, crayons or colored pencils (optional)

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE YOUR MAGNETIC WAND

PART 1: PETRI DISH LINING

Step 1. Trace the top half of your petri dish on a sheet of construction paper.

Step 2. Cut out your circle. Then use the craft glue to glue your circle inside the bottom of the petri dish. The edges of the circle will fold up along the sides of the dish — this will keep the iron filings from slipping underneath the paper.

Optional: Using a marker, crayon or colored pencil, draw a picture or shape on your circle to fill in at the end.

PART 2: MAGNETIC WAND

Step 1. With the craft stick lying flat, glue your magnet to one end.

Step 2. Now glue one end of your twine to the outside edge of the bottom of the petri dish, leaving enough room for the top lid to fit.

Step 3. Glue the other end of your twine to the non-magnet end of the craft stick.

PART 3: ADDING IRON

Step 1. Carefully sprinkle a small amount of iron filings (about the size of a nickel) in the bottom of your dish. Have an adult help with this step if needed.

Step 2. Close the petri dish and carefully test your wand underneath the dish. The iron should follow the wand. Adjust the iron filings as needed.

Step 3. Once ready, glue down the top of your petri dish by adding glue to the inside of the top half of the dish. Let your dish dry completely before using.

Step 4. Test your wand by waving it underneath and on top of your dish to form a shape or letter with the iron. If you drew something on your circle, try to fill it in using the wand.

"How to Make a Fun Magnetic Wand" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

A Rube Goldberg machine is any complex contraption that uses a chain reaction to perform a simple task.

HOW TO GET STARTED

Step 1: Start at the End

Identify the simple task you want to achieve. You could turn off a light, open a door, pour a bowl of cereal, turn off an alarm clock, hammer a nail or pop a balloon. Be creative — and unique.

Step 2: Make a Plan

Brainstorm a series of actions that will complete your task. Make a pin pop a balloon. Send a toy car down a ramp. Make dominoes fall. Draw a blueprint plan for what you expect to happen. The most important action will be the first step — that’s what starts the entire machine. Make sure your machine starts with a bang!

 
Step 3: Gather Your Materials

You can use almost anything to create your Rube Goldberg machine. Here are some ideas: dominoes, fans, PVC pipe, magnets, duct tape, marbles, cups or bowls, miniature toy cars, paper towel tubes, string.

Step 4: Build and Test

As you create your machine, follow your blueprint and place your materials where you think they need to be. Practice makes perfect, so don’t expect your Rube Goldberg machine to work perfectly the first time you try it. There will be plenty of trial and error — and that’s OK. Adjust your materials and keep at it.

10 WORKING RUBE GOLDBERG MACHINES

Here are videos of 10 working Rube Goldberg machines. If you make one of your own, use the form below to send us photos.

"How to Make a Rube Goldberg Machine" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Brighten your home this winter with this cool and crafty snowman decoration. It’s a perfect gift!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A POMPOM SNOWMAN

• 1 skein of yarn — makes about 10 to 15 pompoms, depending on the size
• Craft, fabric or hot glue
• Scissors
• Googly eyes (optional)
• Pipe cleaners
• Ribbon
• Small buttons or beads
• Twigs
• Felt or fabric

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A POMPOM SNOWMAN

Step 1: Grab the end of the yarn and place it across your fingers in one hand.

Step 2: Using your free hand, wrap the yarn around your fingers until most of your fingertips are covered, and then cut the yarn. Don’t wrap too tightly!

Step 3: Gently slide the yarn off your fingers. Keeping it in its form, place the yarn on the table. Next, take the remaining yarn and cut off a 1-foot piece, and tie that piece tightly around the ball.

Step 4: Using the scissors, cut open both sides of the pompom one at a time, and then fluff them out.

Step 5: Trim the pompom into an even sphere shape.

Repeat steps 1 through 5 to make another pompom — this one should be smaller. Repeat this step twice if you want to make a three-tiered snowman. Keep in mind that each pompom should be a different size.

Step 6: Take the two loose ends of each pompom and tie them together. Make sure the knot is tight. You can also glue the pompoms together with hot glue.

Step 7: Dress up your snowman by using the pipe cleaners, buttons, beads and ribbon to give it a face, arms and some winter gear!

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of the completed project sent to us by Scout Life readers. If you have a photos of a SL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"How to Use Yarn to Make a Pompom Snowman" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Making your own chess set can be as easy as digging around in your dad’s spare parts drawer.

Wing nuts, anchor caps, bolts, washers and a few other odd pieces of specialty hardware are all you need to make your own version of this “hardware chess” set.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED AND HOW YOU’LL DO IT

Total cost: An hour’s time and less than $25. And if you ever lose a piece, you can make another for next to nothing!

Remember: You need a total of 16 pawns, four rooks (also called castles), four knights, four bishops, two kings and two all-powerful queens.

Follow the instructions below, or spend some time browsing at the hardware store for pieces to customize your set.

You’ll also need the following:

• White glue
• 1 cup of vinegar
• Small plastic container
• Pliers
• Screwdriver

Submerge half of the nuts and bolts in the vinegar overnight. This will create one light set and one dark set of pieces. It’s best to do this before assembling the pieces.

You could also choose to spray paint half of the pieces instead. If you go with this option, it’s best to paint the pieces after they’re assembled.

PAWNS

For each pawn (16):

• 5/16 by 3/4-inch hexagonal (six-sided or regular) cap bolts
• 5/16-inch hexagonal nuts

Thread nut onto bolt until 1/4 inch of bolt rises above the nut. Glue in place.

ROOKS OR CASTLES

For each rook (4):

• 5/16 by 1 1/2-inch hexagonal nut sleeve anchors

Use sleeve anchor as is.

KNIGHTS

For each knight (4):

• 1/4 by 2-inch eye bolts with nuts

Thread nut onto eye bolt until edge of bolt is even with nut. Glue in place by applying glue to the threads of the bolt, twisting on the nut, then wiping off the excess.

BISHOPS

For each bishop (4):

• 5/16 by 1 1/2-inch hexagonal cap bolts
• 5/16-inch wing nuts
• 5/16-inch locking nuts with nylon inserts

Thread wing nut onto bolt. Thread insert lock onto bolt, and tighten. Secure wing nut against insert lock.

KINGS

For each king (2):

• 1/4-inch hollow wall anchors (long)
• No. 14 finishing washers
• 1/4-inch flat washers
• 1/4-inch wing nuts
• 1/4-inch anchor caps

Grip end of hollow wall anchor with pliers, tighten screw with screwdriver until metal strips flair out. Remove center screw, add finish washer, replace screw into wall anchor. Add flat washer. Thread wing nut onto screw end, then tighten anchor cap to end of screw.

QUEENS

For each queen (2):

• 1/4-inch hollow wall anchors (short)
• No. 14 finish washers
• 1/4-inch wing nuts
• 5/16-inch external toothed washers
• 1/4-inch nylon insert locks

Tighten screw of hollow wall anchor as for kings. Remove center screw, add finish washer, replace screw into wall anchor. Thread wing nut onto screw end upside down. Then add toothed washed and tighten locking nut to end of screw.

YOUR HARDWARE CHESS SET IS COMPLETE!

"How to Make a Hardware Chess Set" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Add a little glow to your room with a Glow-in-the-Dark Galaxy Jar! This crafty project is also known as a calming jar, because it can help with stress relief.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED FOR YOUR GALAXY JAR

• Craft paintbrushes
• Glass jar with a lid
• Glitter
• Glow-in-the-dark acrylic paint — as many colors as you want
• Newspaper, parchment paper, cardboard or construction paper
• Shape stencils
• Sheet of paper or empty egg carton
• Vegetable oil

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE YOUR GALAXY JAR

STEP 1: COVER YOUR WORK AREA using newspaper, construction paper, parchment paper or cardboard.

STEP 2: MAKE A PAINT PALETTE. Pour a small amount of each paint color that you want to use onto a sheet of paper, small piece of cardboard or egg carton.

STEP 3: USE THE PAINTBRUSHES AND SHAPE STENCILS to paint different designs inside the glass jar. This is your galaxy, so get creative!

STEP 4: PLACE YOUR JAR OUTSIDE IN THE SUN for 2 to 4 hours so the paint can dry. This will also help activate the glow. Make sure your jar is in a safe place.

STEP 5: ONCE THE JAR IS COMPLETELY DRY, FILL IT WITH VEGETABLE OIL. Next, add in the glitter.

STEP 6: FINALLY, TURN OFF THE LIGHTS TO SEE YOUR GALAXY GLOW! If you want to add a little more glow, use a blacklight or decorate the outside of your jar using the glow-in-the-dark paint — and your imagination!

OPTIONAL: ADD FOOD COLORING to the oil inside the jar to change the color of your galaxy.

"How To Make a Glow-in-the-Dark Galaxy Jar" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

It’s not strong enough for climbing, but you can use this simple wooden clip to secure your stuff.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• 3-inch carabiner
• 3⁄8″ birch plywood
• Pencil
• Drill
• 1⁄4″ drill bit
• Coping saw
• Sandpaper
• Water-based polyurethane

WHAT YOU’LL DO

1. Place a real carabiner on the plywood and trace around the inside and outside edges with a pencil. If the edge of the plywood is cut clean and has a straight side, you may want to position the carabiner in a way that makes use of the plywood’s edge (see image for step 3).

2. Drill a 1/4″ starter hole against the inside pencil line. The starter hole is necessary so you insert the coping saw saw blade.

3. Use the coping saw to cut out the inside of the carabiner first, then the outside.

4. Cut the carabiner opening.

5. Sand smooth, and apply the water-based polyurethane.

6. Your wooden carabiner is complete. Spread the opening to attach items to the carabiner. Although birch plywood is strong and can be bent, it’s still not a good idea to open the carabiner too much. There is always a chance it could break.

Note: Not to be used for climbing or safety.

"How to Make a Plywood Carabiner" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Father’s Day is coming up. Dad will be one happy guy with one of these cool gifts.

TANGLED TWINE?

“Knot” anymore with this handy twine dispenser.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

• Wide-mouth canning jar
• Needle
• Roll of twine
• Pencil
• Thin cardboard
• Scissors

WHAT YOU’LL DO:

1. Poke the pencil through the center of the twine roll.

2. Put the twine inside the jar, eraser down. The pencil helps it unravel.

3. Draw around the flat part of the lid on the cardboard and cut out that circle.

4. Make a small hole using the needle.

5. Pull the twine up through the hole.

6. Put the cardboard on the jar and tighten the lid on top.

ROCK ON

Dad will love this desktop paperweight.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

• Clear sealer
• 1/4 cup of salt
• 1/4 cup of water
• 1/4 cup of flour
• Pebbles or gravel
• Bowl
• Cookie sheet
• Rubber gloves
• Paint mask

WHAT YOU’LL DO:

1. Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Use your hands to mix the salt, flour and water in the bowl.

2. Roll the mixture into a ball.

3. Flatten it on the cookie sheet.

4. Spell out a message with the pebbles. Bake for about 2 hours or until hard. Let cool overnight.

5. Put on your paint mask and gloves, and spray or paint with sealer.

GO TEAM!

This clothespin coaster is perfect for the big game.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

• White glue
• 24 wooden clothespin
• Paint or markers the colors of Dad’s favorite team
• Paintbrush
• Newspaper to work on

WHAT YOU’LL DO:

1. Carefully take apart the clothespins.

2. Decorate them with the team colors. Let them dry.

3. Glue them together one at a time. (A little glue beats too much glue.)

WALK IN HIS SHOES

Dad will think of you every time he sees this special keepsake.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

• Two pieces of paper as big as Dad’s shoe
• One of Dad’s shoes and one of yours
• Markers or crayons
• Large piece of colored poster board or heavy paper
• Pencil
• White glue

WHAT YOU’LL DO:

1. On one piece of paper, use a pencil to trace around your dad’s shoe.

2. Put your shoe inside that and trace around it.

3. Fill in the two shoe outlines with different colors. Glue it to the poster board.

4. Cut the other piece of paper in half lengthwise, and write a message on the two strips. Glue them to the top and bottom of the poster.

"How to Make 4 Cool Gifts for Father’s Day" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Design and make your own board game to take family game night to the next level of fun.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A BOARD GAME

• Posterboard, cardboard or cardstock
• Game tokens, such as small toys
• Blank note cards or construction paper
• Dice
• Pencil, markers, crayons, paint and stickers
• Paper
• Ruler

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A BOARD GAME

STEP 1. Create an outline of your board game on a sheet of paper. This includes the title of your game, instructions, rules, the number of players and any storyline you want your game to have.

STEP 2. On a sheet of paper, sketch out what you want your board game to look like. This will be your go-by guide. Get creative!

STEP 3. Create your board game. Place the posterboard, cardboard or cardstock on a flat, hard surface such as a table or smooth, uncarpeted floor. Using the ruler, pencil and your sketch from Step 2, design your game. Ask a parent or older sibling for help with this step if needed. Make your board colorful using markers, crayons and stickers. If using paint, cover your work area with newspaper to prevent making a mess!

STEP 4. Make the pull cards by cutting blank note cards in half. You can also make the cards with construction paper. Fold the paper into fours, and cut out each rectangle. Create as many pull cards as you want. Next, fill in the cards with simple instructions. For example, they can require the player to go back to start, move forward or back a few spaces, or switch places with another player.

STEP 5. Gather the game tokens and dice. You can use the tokens from an old board game, buy new pieces or use items around your house. Examples of some tokens are toy cars, pawns, miniature toy people and math counters.

STEP 6. Finally, it’s time to play! Round up enough family and friends to meet the required number of players. Then grab the dice and roll!

LEARN MORE ABOUT GAME DESIGN

If you thought this project was fun, check out the Game Design merit badge.

"How to Make Your Own Board Game" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Fold your very own Star Wars X-Wing ship! Follow the instructions in the video above, or use the following step-by-step instructions to make an origami X-Wing fighter.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• One square sheet of origami paper (the larger the sheet, the easier it will be to fold)

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: Start with square, color side up. Fold diagonally both ways. Unfold.

Step 2: Flip paper over. Fold in half side to side. Unfold.

Step 3: Fold in half, top to bottom.

Step 4: Squash fold both sides. (Hold top corners, and pull down and inward.)

Step 5: Pull up center crease.

Step 6: Your paper should look like this now.

Step 7: Fold and unfold right panel.

Step 8: Squash and flatten.

Step 9: Fold right panel to the left.

Step 10: Slightly open flap to the right and squash and flatten.

Step 11: Flip over.

Step 12: Repeat steps 7-10 on back two panels.

Step 13: Fold toward center. Unfold.

Step 14: Pull up on center and fold up as sides come in. Flatten.

Step 15: Repeat steps 13-14 on all four sides.

Step 16: On two opposing sides, fold down point as shown.

Step 17: On a side with point up, inside reverse fold the legs out to make two wings. Repeat on opposite side to make two more wings.

Step 18: Fold the right edge to the center. As you are folding the right edge, the bottom edges should fold together.

Step 19: You fold should look like this once flattened. Repeat step 18 on all four sides.

Step 20: Once all four sides are complete, take the right side and fold over to the left. Repeat on back.

Step 21: The bottom triangle flap should no longer have a split in the middle.

Step 22: Fold the bottom triangle flap up toward the middle. Repeat on back.

Step 23: Inside reverse fold the tips up. Repeat on the other side. You’ll have a total of four to complete.

Step 24: Fold the right panel over to the left. Repeat on other side.

Step 25: Your Star Wars X-Wing is complete!

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED SHIP

Check out these photos of the completed X-Wing Fighter sent to us by Scout Life readers. If you have a photos of a SL Workshop project, please use the form below to send it to us.

"How to Make an Origami X-Wing Fighter" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Show Mom you care with these easy handmade gifts.

HEART ART

Mom can always keep you close to her heart with this matchbox locket.

What You’ll Need:

• Scissors
• Matchbox
• Paint
• Colored paper
• 28-inch ribbon
• Small photo of you
• Glue

What You’ll Do:

1. Paint the inside of the matchbox.

2. Glue a 2″ x 4″ strip of paper around the outside cover, or paint it.

3. Glue a photo of yourself inside.

4. Tape or glue the ribbon on the back to make the necklace.

5. Sign your name and print the date on the back.

SEE-AND-SEW

Mom can use this handy organizer to store her smallest sewing supplies.

What You’ll Need:

• Canning jar with lid
• Cotton
• 6″ x 6″ soft, thin fabric
• Scissors
• Pencil
• Glue

What You’ll Do:

1. Draw around the lid on the back side of the fabric.

2. Cut out a fabric circle about 1 1/2 inches bigger around than the penciled circle.

3. Put a handful of cotton on top of the fabric circle’s back side. Put the flat lid upside down on top of the cotton. Press it down.

4. Wrap the fabric up and around the lid. Glue or tape it to the lid. Let dry.

5. Fill with sewing supplies, close the lid and push pins into the top like a pincushion.

PAPER PROTECTOR

Your mom can keep her papers in place with this “rocking” paperweight.

What You’ll Need:

• Smooth rock about 5 inches across
• Soft, thin fabric
• Small flat brush
• Tablespoon
• White glue
• Container for mixing
• Scissors
• Water

What You’ll Do:

1. Wash and dry the rock.

2. Cut the fabric into pieces about 1 inch wide.

3. Mix 1 tablespoon of water into 3 tablespoons of glue.

4. Brush glue on a small part of the rock, and then lay on the first fabric pieces.

5. Cover the whole rock this way. Glue the fabric edges down smooth, but don’t use too much glue. Let dry.

6. Finish with a coat of glue mixture and let dry.

STUCK ON YOU

Here’s a new way for mom to display your best artwork and school papers.

What You’ll Need:

• Clothespin
• Colored paper or cloth
• Glue
• Scissors
• Pencil
• Adhesive magnetic strips

What You’ll Do:

1. Lay a clothespin on the back of the paper or cloth, and draw around it.

2. Cut it out.

3. Glue it to one side of a clothespin.

4. Cut a piece of magnetic tape as long as the clothespin and stick it onto the other side.

5. Clip a Mother’s Day card onto one, and you’re done.

MOM’S STUFF

Mom can keep her pens and pencils in the perfect spot with this flowery pot.

What You’ll Need:

• Fake flowers
• Scissors
• Pens (caps off)
• Tape (green floral tape is best)
• Small decorated pot or vase
• Pebbles or beans

What You’ll Do:

1. Strip leaves off stems. Cut stems about 3 inches long.

2. Hold a pen and stem together and tightly wrap a short piece of tape around them at the top.

3. Wrap more tape around and around, all the way down.

4. Wrap around the bottom a few times and cut off the tape.

5. Put in a decorated pot or vase of pebbles or beans.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECTS

Check out these photos of completed projects sent to us by Scout Life readers. If you have a photos of a SL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"5 Easy Gifts That You Can Make for Mom" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Embrace your creativity with soap carving, a fun and easy activity.

Remember, Bear Scouts and Webelos Scouts learn about knife safety by earning the Whittling Chip. Scouts BSA members earn the privilege to use knives and other tools by earning the Totin’ Chip.

Do you have a photo of your completed soap carving? Send us a photo!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED FOR SOAP CARVING

• Carving knife (can be a butter knife or plastic knife)
• Pointed knife, toothpick or paper clip
• Fresh bar of soap
• Cutting board
• Newspaper or old bedsheet
• Pen, pencil or marker
• Scissors or craft knife
• Sheet of paper
• Paper towel

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO CARVE SOAP

STEP 1: Cover your cutting board and work area with newspaper or an old bedsheet.

STEP 2: Place a piece of paper on the cutting board and trace the bar of soap to create a template.

On the inside, draw the shape or image that you want to carve. This will ensure that the picture you draw will fit on the bar of soap. Get creative!

STEP 3: Cut out the design on the inside of the template and place it on the soap bar.

Trace the outline of your design onto the bar of soap using a pencil, pen or marker.

STEP 4: Starting at one corner, use a carving knife to slowly shave off small pieces of the soap that are not part of your design.

Move the knife forward as if you were peeling an apple or potato. Do not cut big pieces; if you do, the soap might break.

Complete this step until it’s only your design that remains.

STEP 5: Finally, smooth out your design using a pointed knife, toothpick or paperclip to remove any extra lumps.

Then use a damp paper towel to remove any soap shavings that might be on the soap.

SOAP CARVING PHOTOS

Check out these photos of completed soap carvings sent to us by Scout Life readers. If you have a photos of a Scout Life project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"How to Make a Soap Carving" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Snowflakes usually melt before you can get a good look at them. Here’s how to preserve individual flakes so you can study them later.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO PRESERVE A SNOWFLAKE

• Access to a freezer
• Freezable pouch (A large pencil case works well.)
• Black poster board or foam sheeting sized to fit inside pouch
• 5 to 10 glass microscope slides
• 5 to 10 glass or plastic slide covers
• Gloves
• Liquid (not gel) superglue or similar product
• One finely bristled paintbrush (more if needed)
• A wide rectangular or square plastic or glass container with a tight-fitting lid
• Snowfall

WHAT YOU’LL DO

STEP 1: So it will be ready for the next snowfall, place your snowflake-capturing equipment — paintbrush, poster board or foam sheet, microscope slides, superglue and slide covers — inside the freezable pouch and store it inside the freezer. The separate plastic or glass container doesn’t have to be in the pouch, but it should be in the freezer.

STEP 2: When it starts to snow, remove your equipment from the freezer and take it outside. Place the black poster board or foam sheet on the ground and watch as individual snowflakes land on the surface.

STEP 3: When you see a snowflake you want to collect, remove the slide from the pouch and place it next to the poster board. Then, use the paintbrush to pick up the snowflake and quickly place it in the center of the slide.

STEP 4: Next, drip as many drops of liquid glue as needed to completely cover the snowflake. Once the snowflake is covered with the glue, carefully place a slide cover on top. Don’t try to reposition the slide cover once it is on — doing so can damage the snowflake. Pick up the slide with two fingers and take it inside.

STEP 5: While holding the slide, take the plastic or glass container out of the freezer and place the glued slide inside while keeping it completely level. Then seal the container with its lid and immediately put it back inside the freezer. Repeat this process for other snowflakes you capture. Do not stack or bump the glued slides as you add others to the container.

STEP 6: Leave the container in the freezer for four to six weeks — untouched! During this time, the glue on your slides will slowly harden, taking the place of the moisture that originally made up the snowflake. Once this preserving process is complete, you can remove the slides from the freezer and admire the shape of your snowflake at room temperature.

OPTIONAL

Use a magnifying glass, microscope or macro lens to get a closer look. For a special touch, label individual slides with the exact location, date and time you collected a particular snowflake.

TIPS

Handle the slide with the snowflake as little as possible so the heat from your hands doesn’t melt the snowflake. Do not get glue on your fingers or in your mouth or eyes.

Very cold, dry air results in smaller, simpler-looking snowflakes. Larger, more complex shapes form when the air is very moist.

"How to Preserve a Snowflake" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Brighten up your home this winter by making your own wreath. Here’s how.

WHAT YOU NEED TO MAKE A WREATH

• 20-inch metal wreath frame
• 1 pack of pipe cleaners
• 3 rolls of 5 ½” poly mesh (also called deco mesh)
• Ruler or tape measure
• Scissors
• Hot-glue gun
• Decorations

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A WREATH

Step 1: Cut the pipe cleaners in half.

Step 2: The metal wreath frame has 10 sections with four rows in each section. Starting at the top of the frame, thread and twist one pipe cleaner once into each row. Continue this method until there’s a pipe cleaner on every row in all 10 sections. Stagger the pipe cleaners around the frame.

Step 3: Take the mesh roll and cut 80 strips, each 10 inches long. Cut more if needed.

Step 4: Roll two strips and place them on top of each other forming an X. Make sure the open part is face down so it doesn’t unravel. (You can use the hot-glue gun to glue the strips shut.) This will create a neater look.

Step 5: Take the crisscross mesh bundle and attach it to the pipe cleaner on the frame by twisting the pipe cleaner around the middle of the mesh bundle tightly enough to hold the mesh in place. Cut off any excess pipe cleaner, or fold it behind the mesh bundle so it can’t be seen.

Step 6: Repeat steps 4 and 5 for each section on the wreath frame. Add more pipe cleaners and mesh strips until the frame is full with no space or gaps.

Step 7: Add your own unique touch by using the hot-glue gun to attach words, snowflake and snowman ornaments, tinsel, small signs with quotes and more — whatever you like. Add a little sparkle to the wreath with confetti or glitter.

A FEW MORE TIPS FOR MAKING A WREATH

• Make sure the poly mesh and pipe cleaners are the same color so they blend well together.

• Buy the thick and wide poly mesh to give the wreath a fuller look.

• This is an example of a 20” wreath. These steps will also work on a bigger or smaller frame. Depending on the size, you might need to buy more or less material.

"How to Craft a Winter Wreath" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

It’s getting cold, so hoop it up! With a hoop greenhouse, you can grow food all winter and get a jump on spring planting.

What You Need:

•  Shovel
• Rake
• Garden pruners
• Measuring tape
• Scissors
• Pencil
• Hammer
• Wood saw
• Electric drill
• Outdoor twine
• Three 8-foot two-by-fours
•  Four 1-by-2-by-12-inch landscape stakes
• 10 1 1⁄2″ galvanized tube straps
•  Eight 3″ exterior wood screws
•  Eight 4″ exterior wood screws
• 20 1″ wood screws
• 10-by-25-foot piece of 3-6 mil plastic sheeting (Plastic sheeting comes in thicknesses rated by mil — that’s one-thousandth of an inch, or the width of a human hair.)
• 14 plastic clamps opening at least 1″ (Or make homemade garden hose clamps. Instructions on following page.)
• 8 feet of 1-by-2-inch furring strip or lath. (Other straight and thin outdoor materials can work, too.)
• 50′ roll of black 3⁄4″ poly pipe (1⁄2” PVC pipe also works.)

SAFETY FIRST: Ask an adult to help with tools you haven’t used before.

How to Build It:

1. Pick a flat and sunny location for your hoop greenhouse. Measure a 4-by-8-foot rectangular area. Prepare the ground for planting by digging up the soil and raking it.

2. Place a two-by-four vertically on each of the two long sides of the garden bed. Saw the remaining two-by-four in half, and lay down those two pieces on the short sides of the bed. Overlap the corners connecting the rectangle. Make corners square and sides parallel.

Next, attach each corner using two 4″ screws.

3. Drive stakes inside each corner and saw tops off flush. Then screw two 3″ screws through the box into each stake.

4. Add hoops: Measure and mark where the tube straps will go. Start in a corner marking about 2′ apart. Marks on the two sides have to be directly opposite one another.

5. Using 1″ screws, attach the tube straps on the inside of the wood 1″ down from the top.

6. Cut poly pipe into five 8′ sections using garden loppers. Push poly pipe through tube straps into the soil, making hoops. Even up their heights.

7. Lash furring strip or lath onto the bottom of the hoops with twine.

8. Attach the cover: Lay out the plastic, and then pull it evenly up over the hoops. Pull snug while clamping onto board or hoops using commercial clamps. You can also use homemade garden hose clamps on the hoops. To make them, cut a piece of old garden hose into 20 2″ pieces, split them lengthwise and slip the pieces onto the plastic and hoops.

9. Cut off excess plastic and fold the ends. Clamp the ends closed or secure the plastic on the ground with rocks.

Tips:

• Avoid pressure-treated lumber, which is toxic.

• Face long sides southward for more sun.

• Attach the cover when there’s no wind.

• Pull the cover back on hot days so your plants won’t fry!

• Choose cold-hardy crops to winter-over. When it freezes, cover them with an inside blanket or frost cloth.

Keep in mind:

• Regular 3-4 mil plastic sheeting lasts 1-2 years. Greenhouse 6 mil UV-safe sheeting lasts 4-6 years but costs more.

• Lower-grade lumber works fine, but check each two-by-four for straightness. Fir lasts 5-7 years outdoors and is cheapest. Cedar lasts 10-15 years but costs more.

Find more fun projects at go.scoutlife.org/howto

"How to Make a Hoop Greenhouse" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Being prepared with the right first-aid supplies could save your pup’s life in an emergency.

Keep the items below in a gallon-sized resealable bag and label it “Dog First Aid” with permanent marker. Then store the kit in an easily accessible place at home. Don’t forget to pack it if you take a trip with your pup.

WHAT TO INCLUDE IN YOUR DOG FIRST-AID KIT

• RUBBING ALCOHOL AND HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (3% SOLUTION): Use these to disinfect and clean wounds.

•INDEX CARD: Write down your dog’s veterinary emergency phone number and any special health info to share with the vet if your dog gets hurt or sick.

•GAUZE: This will let you clean and protect wounds, as well as control bleeding.

•BANDAGES AND ADHESIVE TAPE: Use elastic bandages to wrap wounds or create a muzzle for an injured dog. Use self-adhesive athletic bandages to temporarily support injured limbs.

•BANDAGE SCISSORS: Snip bandages to the right size with these.

•RESEALABLE PLASTIC BAGS to pack out what you use.

•ACTIVATED CHARCOAL: This can be used to absorb poison.

•TWEEZERS

•NAIL CLIPPERS

•ANTIBIOTIC OINTMENT: This will dress wounds before you bandage them.

•EYEWASH

•RECTAL THERMOMETER WITH PETROLEUM JELLY: Because an oral thermometer won’t stay in your dog’s mouth.

•CORTISONE CREAM: Use this for minor allergic reactions and itching.

•BLANKET

Contact your vet as quickly as possible during a pet emergency.

Never treat a dog showing aggression, and avoid injured dogs you don’t know. A dog with an unknown vaccine history could have rabies and spread it to you.

"How to Make a First-Aid Kit for Your Dog" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Did you know you can launch a rocket in your backyard using only an empty plastic bottle, water and a launchpad?

Unlike engine-powered rockets, water-bottle rockets don’t pose a fire risk and often require less prep. These DIY rockets still pack a powerful launch and should be treated with caution.

Here’s how water-bottle rockets work: an adult opens a valve, allowing compressed air to surge into the bottle, sending the rocket into the air. A little water inside the rocket helps push it higher. It’s a fun example of science — showing how every action has an equal and opposite reaction.

Read on to prepare for your own, epic launch.

Here’s What You Need to Know About Water-Bottle Rockets

1. You need a launcher. While the rocket itself is a breeze to build, your launchpad requires a little more thought. Some people decide to build their own launchers out of PVC pipe or other tools from a hardware store (NASA has instructions you can take on with the help of an adult). We like this ready-made launcher from AquaPod. A great launcher can be used over and over again so it’s well worth the investment.
2. The secret to making a high-flying rocket is finding the right balance of materials, weight and design. Rockets with a perfect balance can soar more than 100 feet in the air.
3. Decorations need to be lightweight and nonmetallic. If they fall off in the air, you don’t want heavy metal pieces coming down near anyone.
4. Don’t use small bottles made out of thin plastic. The pressure builds so much that it could make those bottles explode on the launch pad, which is why it’s important to never hold the bottle when pumping it with air.
5. Stand back. Always launch your rocket while standing at least 15 feet away, and shoot them off in an open area so they don’t land on you. Don’t look directly over your rocket on the launchpad. Here’s some great information on staying safe with water bottle rockets.
6. Check out the video above where we show you how to decorate your water-bottle rocket and what a launch looks like.
   

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED WATER-BOTTLE ROCKETS

If you’ve ever launched a water bottle or engine-powered rocket, we’d love to see photos and videos. Tag us on Instagram or upload a photo using the form below.

"6 Things to Know About Launching Water-Bottle Rockets" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

The Lenape, also known as the Delaware, are a Native American tribe originally from the eastern woodlands. Throughout their history, the pucker-toe moccasin has been a popular style. The footwear is comfortable and easy to make.

WHAT YOU NEED TO MAKE MOCCASINS

• Permanent pen or marker
• Large sheet of paper or four 8 ½-by-11-inch sheets taped together
• Ruler
• Rubber mallet
• Scrap wood
• Flexible tape measure (or string that can be measured with a ruler)
• Scissors

MATERIALS TO SEW MOCCASINS

• Deer-hide leather (Available online at stores such as eBay and Tandy Leather. You can also buy a Moccasin Leather Craft Kit at scoutshop.org. Only lacing is required.)
• Leather needles
• Extra strong upholstery thread
• Needle-nose pliers

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE MOCCASINS

STEP 1. Trace your foot on a large sheet of paper following the steps on the template. (The same template is used for both moccasins.) Your template should match the example after you finish. (See diagram below)

Template Instructions:

• Make two parallel lines (A) apart by the circumference of your foot minus one inch. These lines should extend well beyond your toe and heal by three or four inches. The outline of your foot should be roughly centered between the lines.
• Make two more lines (B) 1.25 to 2 inches outside and parallel to the lines you just made. These will be the downturned flaps on the sides of the moccasins.
• At the ball of your foot outline, draw a straight line at right angles to the other lines you have drawn (Ball of foot line).
• On each side, draw a line at 90 degrees from the intersection of the ball of foot line at A and B. This marks the front of the flap.
• From the ball of foot line place a mark about 2 inches up toward the toe on both A lines. These are points 1 and 3.
• Place a mark (point 2) 3.5 inches above the longest toe and centered between the A lines.
• From both sides, draw a curved line between points 1, the center mark point 2and point 3. This forms a rounded dome over the toes.

STEP 2. Cut out your template and place it on the deer hide. Avoid any holes or thin spots in the hide.

Trace the outside of your template onto the hide and cut just inside your marked lines. Mark a dot on the inside (rough) side of the hide at all three points.

STEP 3. Start a gather stitch at either Point 1 or 3 and work to the other point.

Loop through the hide and tie a square knot to anchor the gather at point 1 or 3. Use the pliers to weave the needle from inside to outside about 1⁄4″ apart and about 1⁄8″ from the edge. When the thread is pulled tight, the hide gathers in hills and valleys. Continue weaving until you get to the other point.

STEP 4. When you reach the gather finish point, draw up the thread to pucker the toe and tie it off by looping the thread through a previous stitch using several half hitches. (Caution: Keep the needle perpendicular to the hide, and be aware of where your fingers are as you use a hard surface to help you push the needle through).

STEP 5. Place a piece of wood under the finished gather and pound flat. Cut a 1″ wide tongue, round off one end and place a mark in the center of the rough side.

STEP 6. With the moccasin and tongue rough side out, match the center of the tongue and the center of the toe, and begin a stitch at point 2, and sew to either point 1 or 3. Keep the edges even. Pass the needle through and over in a simple overhand stitch. When you reach the flap, mark the tongue opposite where the flap begins and where the gather stitch stopped. Use these as guides as you stitch the other side of the tongue.

STEP 7. Turn the moccasin good side out and put your foot in the toe tightly. Holding the top edges with a clothespin, pinch the hide at the heel and mark it.

STEP 8. Turn the moccasin back to rough side out. Starting from the top, place a mark going down at a depth of the flap (the distance between A and B lines). Stitch a line just inside the marks you made for the heel. Stop at the flap, mark it and tie it.

STEP 9. Try on the moccasin, inserting toes tightly. If needed, use a finger to pull the moccasin over your heel. If it’s too loose or tight, remove the stitching and try again. Once the heel fits, continue stitching the heel line until complete.

STEP 10. You can decorate your moccasins with beads and satin, which the Lenape people used.

"How to Make Your Own Leather Moccasins" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You can make an easy face covering using a Scout neckerchief, T-shirt or a bandana. It doesn’t require any sewing, and you can use these face coverings during essential trips to the grocery or pharmacy, where social distancing is challenging to maintain.

As recommended by the CDC, make sure your face covering:

• fits the sides of your face snugly but comfortably
• is made of multiple layers of fabric
• doesn’t obstruct your breathing
• can be washed in your washing machine and dried in your dryer without damage

Face masks and coverings do not take the place of social distancing or hand washing. Follow the guidance of your local authorities and always stay home if you are ill or have been around someone who is ill.

What You’ll Need to Make a Neckerchief Face Covering

• Triangular Scout neckerchief
• Coffee filter
• 2 large rubber bands or elastic hair ties
• Scissors

What You’ll Do to Make a Neckerchief Face Mask

1. Cut the coffee filter into a wedge shape.

2. Unfold your neckerchief, then fold in the two points to form a square.

3. Place the coffee filter in the center of the neckerchief.

4. Fold the neckerchief into thirds, by folding the top down and the bottom up.

5. Slide the neckerchief through the rubber bands (or hair ties), so they’re about six inches apart.

6. Fold each side to the middle, and tuck one into the other.

7. Place the mask on your face, with a rubber band over each ear. You may need to adjust the mask so it fits the sides of your face snugly but comfortably.

Here are two other methods for making easy, no-sew, face masks:

How to Use a T-shirt to Make a Face Covering

What You’ll Need to Make a T-shirt Face Mask

• T-shirt that you don’t mind cutting up
• Scissors
• Ruler (optional)

What You’ll Do to Make a T-shirt Face Covering

1. Cut off about 7 inches from the bottom of the t-shirt. This should give you a tube of cloth that looks like a rectangle when it’s folded flat.

2. Cut out a 7-inch long rectangle from one side of the shirt. Leave about an inch of fabric on the top and bottom. Those flaps will be the strings to tie the face covering behind your head.

3. Snip the two narrow loops.

4. Place the mask over your face. Tie the top set of strings high toward the crown of your head. Tie the lower set of strings at the base of your head where it meets your neck.

5. Adjust the mask so it fits the sides of your face snugly but comfortably.

How to Make a Face Mask With a Bandana

What You’ll Need to Make a Bandana Face Covering

• Bandana or square cotton cloth, approximately 20″x20″
• Coffee filter
• 2 large rubber bands or elastic hair ties
• Scissors

What You’ll Do to Make a Bandana Face Mask

1. Cut the coffee filter into a wedge shape.

2. Fold the bandana in half.

3. Place the coffee filter in the center of the bandana.

4. Fold the bandana into thirds, by folding the top down and the bottom up.

5. Slide the bandana through the rubber bands (or hair ties), so they’re about six inches apart from each other.

6. Fold each side to the middle, and tuck one into the other.

7. Place the mask on your face, with a rubber band over each ear. You may need to adjust the covering so it fits the sides of your face snugly but comfortably.

"How to Make a Face Mask Using a Scout Neckerchief" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Don’t throw away that old wooden baseball bat. It can still be a hit as a nameplate.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Wooden bat
• Keyhole saw for curved cut or ripsaw for straight cut
• Pencil and paper
• Hobby knife
• Coping saw for cutting out the letters
• A round file and a triangular file
• Sandpaper

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: Determine the type of cut you want to use, straight or curved. When you make the cut, reduce the thickness of the bat by about half. This will create a flat surface. The flat surface will need to be long enough for the name. Although the flat surface will not show when finished, sand it smooth. This will make it easier to trace the name with the pencil.

Step 2: Draw a template of the name and cut it out with the hobby knife. The name should be sized so there is about 1/2″ above and below the name.

Step 3: Turn the template upside down. Since you will be working on the flat side of the bat, the name should appear in reverse.

Step 4: Center the reversed template on the flat surface and trace the name. Drill holes through the waste wood so the coping saw blade can be inserted.

Step 5: Set the coping saw blade so it cuts on the pull stroke. Use this method so all the wood fibers that pull out during sawing will be on the back side. Work slowly and keep the saw blade straight with the work. Saw on the inside of the lines so you have a little extra wood to work with when you file and sand the letters smooth. When you are happy with the letters, your bat nameplate is complete.

"How to Make a Baseball Bat Nameplate" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO BUILD A PURPLE MARTIN HOUSE

• 3/4-inch-thick western red cedar
• Saw
• Drill
• Screwdriver
• Wood screws
• 4 small hinges
• 2 gate-hook sets
• Some screen
• Stapler
• All-purpose caulk
• Water-based primer
• White outdoor water-based paint
• Paintbrush

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO BUILD A PURPLE MARTIN HOUSE

Cut the following from 3/4″-thick western red cedar:

• One piece, 29 1⁄2″ long and 15 1⁄2″ wide, for the base
• Two pieces, 18 1⁄2″ by 7″, for the sides
• Two pieces, 15 1⁄2″ by 7″, for the front and back
• One piece, 14″ by 7″, for the interior divider
• One piece, 20″ by 15 1⁄2″, for the ceiling
• One piece, 11″ by 11″, for the roof peaks
• One piece, 29 1⁄2″ by 11 1⁄2″, for the roof
• One piece, 29 1⁄2″ by 12″, for the roof

STEP 1: Attach the sides to the base, leaving 5 1⁄2″ on each end.

STEP 2: Drill four 5⁄16″ holes, 2 1⁄4″ and 4 1⁄2″ from each end and 1″ from the top of the interior divider.

STEP 3: Attach the interior dividers to the base with screws.

STEP 4: Drill six 5⁄16″ holes through the floor of each of the compartments, one in each corner and one midway along each side.

STEP 5: Drill four 5⁄16″ holes in each of the front and back panels, 1″ from the top and 2 3⁄4″ and 5″ from both ends. Cut a 1 3⁄16″-tall half-circle hole in the middle of each panel 1″ from the bottom.

STEP 6: Hinge the front and back pieces to the sides. Secure an eye catch to the free end of the front and back panels, and screw the hook into the sides.

STEP 7: Cut the 11″ square of wood along the diagonal to create roof peaks. Drill a 2 1⁄8″ hole 3″ from the top of each peak. Cut a piece of screen and staple over each hole. Attach the peaks to the front and back of the ceiling.

STEP 8: Attach the ceiling to the sides. Drill a 2 1⁄8″ hole centered over each compartment and cover with screen.

STEP 9: Attach the narrow roof panel to the peaks. Position the wide panel so it overlaps the top edge of the shorter panel and secure to the roof peak. Seal the roof edge with caulk and finish the exterior with primer and white water-based outdoor paint.

Mount your house on a wooden post using angle irons or on a telescoping pole with a floor flange of the appropriate diameter.

The Purple Martin Conservation Association offers tips for choosing your martin house location and the best dates to open the house in your region at purplemartin.org

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of the completed project sent to us by Boys’ Life readers. If you have a photos of a BL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"How to Build a Purple Martin House To Attract Bug-Eating Birds" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Shake up your winter routine with this easy-to-make keepsake. This DIY snow globe would be a perfect holiday gift for friends or family.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A SNOW GLOBE

• A clean glass jar with a lid. You can choose any kind of jar. Check your fridge for interesting shapes and sizes.
• Distilled water
• Glitter
• Hot glue gun and glue sticks
• Small toy or figurine

HOW TO MAKE YOUR SNOW GLOBE

Step 1: Choose a toy/figurine that will fit inside your jar.

Step 2: Glue the base of the toy/figurine to the inside of the jar’s lid.

Step 3: Add glitter to the jar. The more you add, the more “snow” you’ll see.

Step 4: Fill the jar with distilled water. Leave a little room at the top so it doesn’t overflow.

Step 5: Submerge the toy/figurine and tightly screw the lid on the jar.

"How to Make a Homemade Snow Globe" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Learn how electricity works — safely — by building this DIY flashlight.

WHAT YOU NEED TO BUILD A FLASHLIGHT

• 3-volt flashlight bulb
• Two D batteries
• Two 5-inch No. 22 insulated copper wires with at least 1/2-inch insulation stripped off ends
• Pocketknife, utility knife or wire strippers
• Scissors
• Tape (electrical, duct or masking tape will work)
• Small cup (paper or plastic)
• Two brass brads
• Jumbo paper clip
• 4-inch cardboard tube
• Cardboard square cut to fit bottom of cup

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A FLASHLIGHT

STEP 1: Attach a brass brad to the end of each wire, securing them by wrapping the wires around the heads of the brads.

Use the utility knife to open two small holes in the paper tube. The holes should be 1 1/2 inches apart.

Push the brads (and wires) through the holes. Orient the wires so that one goes through the top of the tube and one goes through the bottom.

Tape the wires and brads to the inside of the tube.

STEP 2: Tape the D batteries together. Make sure they’re firmly in contact with each other, with the positive end of one touching the negative end of the other. Insert them in the paper tube.

STEP 3: Tape one wire to the negative (flat) end of the connected batteries.

STEP 4: Cut a small hole in the cardboard square, and then cut the square to fit the bottom of the cup. Place the remaining wire through the hole.

Twist the wire around the base of the bulb and insert the bulb into the cardboard.

Tape the cardboard with bulb to the tube. Be sure the end of the bulb is in contact with the top of the battery.

STEP 5: Cut a hole in the bottom of the paper cup just large enough for the bulb.

Place the bulb into the hole and secure the cup to the cardboard tube with tape.

Wrap the cup and tube with more tape, covering both completely. Carefully wrap tape around the brads.

STEP 6: Place the paper clip between the two brads on the outside of the paper tube. This will act as your power switch. When the paper clip touches both brads, the flashlight turns on. When the paperclip is removed, the flashlight turns off.

"How to Make a Paper Tube Flashlight" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO BUILD A DUCK BOX

• Handsaw
• Drill and ½-inch bit
• Jigsaw
• Screwdriver
• Sandpaper
• Pencil
• Measuring tape
• Straight-edge
• Wood screws
• Hardware cloth (optional)
• Untreated cedar wood, 1 inch by 10 inches by 12 feet
• Wood shavings

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO BUILD A DUCK BOX

1. Measure and cut wood to produce the six pieces below. Number the pieces as shown.

2. Attach the back (1) to the side (2) using four screws fastened from the back of the box.

3. Drill five 1/2″ drainage holes into the floor (3). Attach the floor by fastening two screws through the back and two through the side.

4. Draw the entry hole on the front (4) using a pencil (4 1/2- by 3 1/2-inch oval). Drill a pilot hole and cut out the entry hole using a jigsaw. Proper entry hole dimensions are critical.

5. Score the inside face of the front (4) with a saw. The horizontal slots will provide toeholds when the ducklings climb out. You can also use hardware cloth.

6. Attach the front (4) using six wood screws.

7. Round the top outside edge of the door with sandpaper (5). Fasten the door at the top with one screw from the front and one from the back. The two screws form the hinge and allow the door to open. Pin the door shut with a nail from the front or add a latch.

8. Attach the roof (6) using four screws from the top and three screws from the back. (Be careful not to screw into the door). The box is now ready to install. Put a 4- to 6-inch layer of wood shavings into the box for nesting material. Do not use sawdust.

HOW AND WHERE TO INSTALL A DUCK NEST BOX

Now that you’ve built your nest box, you need to find a good place to install it. Be sure to put the box in a location that will be convenient for monitoring and annual maintenance.

WHERE TO FIND DUCKS: To increase the chances of your nest box being used, it should be located in an area attractive to cavity-nesting ducks. You’ll see these birds using wooded wetlands that contain water year round or, at least, throughout the summer. You’ll also see them using trees along riverbanks and lake shorelines.

MOUNTING YOUR NEST BOX: Nest boxes can be mounted on tree trunks or on steel poles beside the water or above the water.

• Good placement — A dead tree at the water’s edge
• Better placement — A solid dead tree in the water
• Best placement: Boxes on stable poles near standing, flooded, dead trees

Boxes should be placed above typical high water levels and at a height that will allow you to access the box for monitoring and maintenance (about 4 to 6 feet above land or water). Try to keep your box close to the water.

The entrance hole to the box should face the water. Clear an unobstructed flight path to your nest box by removing branches that might be in the way. You can tip the box forward a little bit to help the ducklings reach the entrance.

PREDATOR GUARDS: A predator guard will help to improve the chance of a successful hatch by preventing egg-eating raccoons from entering your nest box. Here’s how to build a predator guard.

NEST BOX MAINTENANCE

Once a bird starts using your box, you’ll likely see many broods raised over the years. Nesting sites for these birds are limited in number. When they find a good nesting site, there is a very good chance they’ll return in following years.

When you put up a nest box you are committing yourself to maintaining that box. Fall and winter are the best times to remove old nesting material, tighten any loose screws and mounts, and add new wood shavings.

"How to Build a Duck Nest Box" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Make a detailed model of Earth and all its neighboring planets with this quick STEM-focused project.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Paint (red, orange, yellow, green, bluegreen, dark blue, cobalt blue, light blue, white and black)
• 8 small Styrofoam balls (these will be the planets). You’ll need the following sizes: 5, 4, 3, 2 ½, 2, 1 ½ and 1 ¼ inches. Make sure you have two each of the 1 ½- and 1 ¼-inch balls.
• 10-inch Styrofoam ball (this will be the base of the solar system)
• Coat hangers, wooden dowels or skewers (these will suspend the planets)
• Styrofoam sheet, pipe cleaners, cardboard or colored paper (this will make Saturn’s rings)
• Pocketknife or scissors

WHAT YOU’LL DO

STEP 1. Stick the hangers, skewers or dowels about halfway through all balls except the 10-inch one.

STEP 2. Add detail to your planets by painting them. Do some research to decide exactly how you want to make each one look. For starters:

• SUN — 5-inch ball, bright yellow
• MERCURY — 1 ¼-inch ball, orange
• VENUS — 1 ½-inch ball, blue-green
• EARTH — 1½-inch ball, dark blue with green highlights
• MARS — 1 ¼-inch ball, red
• JUPITER — 4-inch ball, orange with red and white stripes. Be sure to add the Great Red Spot in the correct area with red paint.
• SATURN — 3-inch ball, yellow-orange
• URANUS — 2-inch ball, cobalt blue
• NEPTUNE — 2 ½-inch ball, light blue

STEP 3. Make the stand. While you wait for the planets to dry, make the stand for your model. Cut the 10-inch ball in half, creating a dome with a flat bottom. Once all the planets are dry, stick them into the dome so each of them is arranged according to its order in the solar system.

DON’T FORGET SATURN’S RINGS!

Add some extra detail to your model by using pipe cleaners, extra Styrofoam, cardboard or colored paper to mimic Saturn’s famous rings.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of the completed solar system project sent to us by Boys’ Life readers. If you have a photos of a BL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"How to Make a Model of the Solar System" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Frogs are an important part of the ecosystem and help keep insect populations under control. Here’s a step-by-step guide to creating an amphibian habitat in your own backyard.

WHAT YOU NEED

• Shovel
• Pond liner or landscaping liner
• Tape measure
• Level
• Medium-sized rocks and several bags of gravel (amount will depend on the size of your frog pond)
• Pocketknife
• Spray paint or string
• Water plants (plants that thrive in aquatic environments)

BEFORE YOU DIG

Don’t forget to call 811 before starting any project that involves digging — even in your own yard. The automated service helps ensure you won’t disturb any dangerous wires or important utility lines.

WHAT YOU’LL DO

STEP 1. CHOOSE A LOCATION. Look for a low area that’s partially shaded with vegetation but not too close to trees.

STEP 2. DECIDE ON SIZE AND SHAPE. Mark an outline of your pond using spray paint or string. Start digging the pond to about 2 feet deep. The pond can be shallower at its edges. Slope the sides so frogs can easily exit the water. Make an access ramp with rocks and gravel.

STEP 3. REMOVE STONES OR ROOTS that could puncture the lining.

STEP 4. PLACE THE LINER OVER THE AREA, making sure it will reach 15 inches beyond the edge of the pond on all sides, and push into place. Remove as many folds as possible.

STEP 5. FILL THE POND WITH WATER. Cut off any excess liner, leaving about 10-12 inches all around the outside. This edge can be buried under soil or covered with stones. Your pond will need water plants to provide a place for frog eggs and shelter for tadpoles. You can add a piece of driftwood and small lily pads at a later time.

WAIT FOR THE FROGS TO SHOW UP!

"How to Build a Frog Pond in Your Backyard" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

WHAT YOU NEED TO MAKE A QUIVER

• A cardboard tube. Make sure your arrows fit inside.
• A 3-foot length of rope, twine or paracord
• Glue stick
• Construction paper
• Stapler
• Single-hole punch
• Soft measuring tape
• Scissors

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A QUIVER

1. Measure the length and diameter of your paper tube.

2. Cut your choice of paper to fit around the tube. You can download one of the BL quiver designs below, or just skip this step and add your design directly to the tube itself.

3. Decorate the paper with shapes of construction paper, markers, crayons, stickers or whatever you like.

4. Glue the decorated cover onto the tube.

5. Measure and cut 3 feet of rope, paracord or twine.

6. Punch two holes in the tube for the rope.

7. Thread the rope through the holes, tying a knot at the end of each side to secure it in place.

8. Pinch the end of the tube and seal it with staples. Your quiver is ready to store your arrows.

PRINTABLE QUIVER DESIGNS

Print one of these quiver designs to use in Step 2.

"Make a Do-It-Yourself Archery Quiver" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Here are three cold-weather projects to sink your teeth into during winter and walk away with a few cool souvenirs.

MAKE A SNOWFLAKE FOSSIL

A tiny, one-of-a-kind snowflake lands on your coat sleeve. You look; you breathe; it’s gone. How can you make a flake stick around longer?

Try superglue. It can seep into small spaces, and trace amounts of water cause it to harden. Put these properties to work and make a lasting snow crystal “fossil.”

On a snowy day, pre-chill a tube of superglue (not the gel kind) and some glass slides and cover slips outside. Be sure to read the safety precautions on the glue’s label before you start.

Catch some snow on a dark surface. Find a crystal you like and move it to the middle of a glass slide. “Use a small paintbrush or a toothpick,” says snowflake expert Dr. Kenneth Libbrecht. “The crystals are delicate, and metal tweezers can conduct heat from your fingers.”

Cover the flake with a drop of superglue. Touching only its sides, gently place a cover slip over the glue. It can take as long as a week for the glue to completely set. Until then, protect the snow crystal by storing your slide in the freezer.

Later, view your snowflake “fossil” with or without a magnifying lens or microscope.

MAKE A PLASTER CAST OF ANIMAL TRACKS

A blanket of snow covers the ground: It’s prime time for animal tracking. So why does your cast of that picture-perfect raccoon print look like it came from an eight-toed alien?

Don’t give up just yet. Making plaster casts of tracks in snow is tricky but not impossible.

Before you cast, reinforce the track so it can stand up to the weight of the plaster. If the snow is wet, dust it with some powdered plaster and let it set. If the snow is dry and powdery, spray a mist of water over the track and wait for it to freeze. You can also try using Snow Print Wax — crime-scene investigators use it to collect evidence.

Plaster gives off heat as it hardens. When casting in snow, mix the plaster to the thickness of half-melted ice cream, adding some snow to cool it down. Pour from a short distance to minimize damage to the track.

If the plaster freezes before it sets, turn the cast track-side up and bring it inside to thaw and finish setting.

New to tracking or just want to brush up? Check out these books:

• “Peterson Field Guide to Animal Tracks” by Olaus J. Murie and Mark Elbroch (Houghton Mifflin, $19.95 softcover)
• “Tom Brown’s Field Guide: Nature Observation and Tracking” by Tom Brown Jr. (Berkley Trade, $14 softcover)
• “Field Guide to Tracking Animals in Snow” by Louise R. Forrest (Stackpole Books, $16.95 softcover)

For younger readers:

• “Nature Detectives” by K.C. Kelley (A Boys’ Life DK Reader, DK Publishing, $3.99 softcover)

MAKE A HOARFROST SCULPTURE

Feeling artistic? Team up with the cold and make some hoarfrost. These large, fragile ice crystals might look complex, but they are easy to grow.

When temperatures are below freezing, set out an open pot of water. Put it somewhere that’s wind-free, such as in an unheated shed or barn. Keep the water warm with a hotplate or other heat source. Position a tree branch or other object for the hoarfrost crystals to grow on a few feet above the water. Now wait patiently for at least a day.

The air temperature and amount of water vapor coming from your pot will affect how the hoarfrost crystals grow. You might end up with crystals that look scaly, feathery or needle-like.

Want to hold on to your natural masterpiece in warmer weather? Take a picture!

"3 Fun Wintertime Projects When It’s Cold Outside" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED (makes one pair)

• 1 six-ounce can of CPVC clear cement
• 2 pieces of ¾-inch hot/cold CPVC pipe, each 10 feet long
  (Although they look alike, CPVC piping will work better than PVC because CPVC tends to be a bit more flexible and less likely to crush. Schedule 80 is recommended.)
• 4 ¾-inch CPVC pipe tees (they’re shaped like the letter “T”)
• 20 45-degree-angle CPVC elbows (they’re shaped like elbows)
• 200 feet of ¼-inch hollow braid poly rope
• Bungee cords, rope, Velcro or other materials to hold snowshoe to foot.

Tools

• Yard stick or measuring tape
• Hand saw, hack saw or PVC pipe-cutting tool
• File or sand paper
• Clamp vise or an extra set of hands
• Flat work surface

WHAT YOU’LL DO

1. Cut the 10-foot-long pipes to the following lengths:

• 2 pieces, each 4 inches long
• 2 pieces, each 8 inches long
• 4 pieces, each 6 inches long
• 4 pieces, each 18 inches long
• 6 pieces, each 1-1/4 inches long
• 8 pieces, each 3 inches

You should end up with 26 cut pieces of pipe.

2. Using a file or sand paper, deburr — or smooth — the cut edges.

3. On a flat work surface, start building the front section of the shoes following these steps. The shoe is built in two halves; start with the front half and glue the pieces in place as you go.

Front Half

1. Put one 45-degree-angle piece of piping on each end of one 4-inch piece of pipe.

2. Put a 3-inch pipe into the open end of both angles.

3. Put another 45-degree angle on the open end of each 3-inch piece.

4. Put a 1 1/4 inch pipe into both angles.

5. Put 45-degree angle pieces onto the 1 1/4 inch pipes. Angle should face up slightly.

6. Put one 6-inch piece into each of the angles.

7. Put one T-angle joint onto the end of each 6-inch piece, then connect with 8-inch pipe.

8. Set this half aside so the glue can harden.

Remember to continue gluing the connections as you go!

Back Half

1. Put 45-degree angles on one end of each 18-inch pipe.

2. Put a 3-inch piece into each angle.

3. Put 45-degree angles onto both 3-inch pieces.

4. Connect the 45-degree angle pieces with a 1 1/2 piece of pipe.

5. Connect the back and front halves of the snowshoe together and let dry for 24 hours.

Lacing the Shoe

Use an eye splice to start and end all lacings. Weave the rope back and forth around the pipe in an over-under pattern to create lacings.

Keep the lacings in place by using CPVC cement where laces meet the pipe.

Attach to foot (boot or shoe) using bungee cords, rope, Velcro or other materials. For best results, attachment method will be similar to an ankle brace bandage.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of the completed project sent to us by Boys’ Life readers. If you have a photos of a BL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"Make Your Own Homemade PVC Snowshoes" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

A tangram is a classic Chinese puzzle consisting of seven pieces that can be recombined into many different shapes and figures. Here’s how to make one.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• 1⁄4″ x 8″ x 8″ square of smooth plywood. If your plywood is a little rough, sand it smooth. You can use other thin materials such as rigid foam or cardboard.
• Fine-toothed saw, coping saw or fine-toothed keyhole saw
• Sandpaper
• Pencil
• Ruler
• Wood finish of your choice. The tangram can be one color, left natural or stained, or you can paint each piece a different color. It’s up to you.

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: With the pencil and ruler, follow the diagram and lay out the square of plywood.

Step 2: Saw the plywood into the seven shapes shown. Sand the top, bottom and edges of each piece.

Step 3: Apply the finish of your choice. Put a mark on the bottom of each piece so you’ll know which side is the top. It can be confusing if you try to make shapes with the bottom of some pieces facing up.

Step 4: Your tangram is complete. Start creating, and have fun!

MAKE THESE TANGRAM FIGURES

TANGRAM FIGURES UPLOADED BY READERS

Check out these photos of tangrams sent to us by Boys’ Life readers. If you have a photos of a BL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"How to Make a Classic Tangram Puzzle" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO BUILD A BAT HOUSE

• 1⁄2″ x 30″ x 36″ sheet of exterior plywood (Don’t use pressure-treated plywood; it’s toxic to bats)
• 1⁄2” x 26″ x 36″ sheet of exterior plywood
• 1″ x 4″ x 40″ board for the roof
• Two 1″ x 2″ x 24 1⁄2″ boards for interior frame
• 1″ x 2″ x 36″ board for interior frame
• Four 1″ x 2″ x 3″ wood spacer blocks
• Crosscut saw
• Pocketknife
• One quart of dark exterior water-based stain
• 53 1″ exterior wood screws
• Seven 1 5⁄8″ exterior wood screws for the roof
• Drill
• 1⁄2″ drill bit for vent holes
• 3⁄32″ drill bit for screw pilot holes
• Countersink bit so screws are flush
• Phillips screwdriving bit
• Two squeeze tubes of exterior, paintable caulking
• One quart of exterior water-based primer
• Two quarts of exterior black or gray water-based paint
• Paintbrushes

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO BUILD A BAT HOUSE

Step 1: Cut out all the bat house boards.

Step 2: Use your pocketknife to scribe shallow grooves (less than 1⁄16″ deep) across the inside of the back sheet of plywood, about 1⁄4″ to 1⁄2″ apart. The grooves help bats grip the plywood.

Step 3: Run a bead of caulk onto the contact surfaces of the interior frame and spacer blocks, and then screw them in place. All surfaces that are in contact with each other should be caulked before screwing them together. Caulking acts as a gasket, sealing out water.

Step 4: Drill 1⁄2″ vent holes. In cold climates, you need only three or four vent holes.

Step 5: Stain the interior of the bat house, including the plywood, frame and spacer blocks. Allow the stain to dry.

Step 6: Caulk and screw the back panel to the frame and spacer blocks. Be sure to drill pilot holes to avoid splitting.

Step 7: Caulk and screw on the roof. A drop of caulking in each screw pilot hole will help waterproof the bat house and keep the inside dry.

Step 8: Paint the exterior with primer, then apply two coats of paint. Use black paint for colder climates and gray paint for warmer climates. Attach the bat house to a building or other structure. Face it south or east, about 10′ to 12′ off the ground.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED BAT HOUSES

Check out these photos of the completed project sent to us by Boys’ Life readers. If you have a photos of a BL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"How to Build a Bat House" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A DUCT-TAPE WALLET

• Duct tape
• Ruler
• Scissors or utility knife

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A DUCT-TAPE WALLET

Step 1: Cut four strips of duct tape, each 9″ long. With the adhesive side up, stick the duct-tape strips to one another in a row, with a 1⁄4” overlap.

Step 2: Make a second sheet. Carefully stick the adhesive sides of the two duct-tape sheets together, lining up the edges.

Step 3: Cut another 9″ strip of duct tape. Use a utility knife or scissors to make a small cut in the center of one end of the duct tape. Tear the strip into two straight 1″ strips.

Step 4: Fold and adhere the 1″ duct-tape strips to the 9″ ends of the sheet. This will make a smooth, clean finished edge.

Step 5: Using the scissors or utility knife, trim the sides of the sheet, making it 8 1/2″ wide.

Step 6: Fold the sheet in half.

Step 7: Tear two 1″ x 4″ duct-tape strips and attach one to each end. Fold them over the sides of the wallet, and trim the excess.

Step 8: To make a smaller pocket for cards, cut two strips of tape each 5″ long and stick the two pieces (adhesive sides) together.

Step 9: Fold and adhere a 1″ strip onto the 5″ edge. Trim the pocket to 4″ long.

Step 10: Using 1⁄2″ strips of duct tape, stick the pocket in place as shown above. Trim the strips flush.

Your duct-tape wallet is complete!

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of the completed project sent to us by Scout Life readers. If you have a photos of a SL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"How to Make a Duct-Tape Wallet" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

This interactive flip book can help you learn the ins and outs of animation. Making this project could also help you complete requirement 3 of the Animation merit badge.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• A stack of index cards
• Packing tape
• One paintbrush
• Mod Podge or craft paste
• Binder clip
• Paint, markers, scissors and other items to help create your animation

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: Draw the first sequence of your animation on the top card of the stack of index cards. Continue drawing through the stack, changing your design only slightly with each card. By the bottom card, your animation should look different than it did on the top card.

Step 2: Neatly stack the finished cards and carefully wrap the packing tape around the left side of the stack. This will act as the book’s binding.

Step 3: With the tape secured to the top and bottom cards, remove the middle portion of the flip book and lay the remaining two cards flat. You should have a gap in the tape. Use the paintbrush to evenly spread some of the Mod Podge or paste onto the tape.

Step 4: Before it dries, carefully reinsert the rest of the cards into the book and fold the top and bottom cards around them. Place the binder clip around the left edge of the flip book and let it sit for about an hour, until the binding is dry.

"How to Make an Animated Flip Book" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Build this monopod hiking staff to keep your smartphone steady and at the ready to take videos and photos on the trail —- or anywhere else.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Smartphone
• 1 1⁄4″ x 48″ dowel (a cylindrical wooden pole)
• Closet pole end caps (The caps come two to a package.)
• Pencil
• Ruler
• Coping saw
• Chisel
• File
• Felt
• >Screwdriver
• Wood glue
• Utility knife
• Drill
• 1⁄4″ round-head wood screw
• Leather strap or paracord (optional)

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: Trace the width of the smartphone across the top of the dowel.

Step 2: Measure and mark 5⁄8″ down the side of the dowel.

Step 3: Use the coping saw and chisel to cut out a notch for the smartphone to slide into. After the notch is cut, the smartphone should slide in without touching the sides. If the notch is too narrow, use the file to make it wider.

Step 4: Use the screwdriver to push a small piece of felt into the notch. Test to see if the phone fits in the notch. It should be just snug enough to hold the phone in place. The phone should not be too tight or too loose. If the felt-lined notch is too narrow, remove the felt and file the notch until it is the proper width. If the notch is too wide and the phone is too loose, add a second layer of felt.

Step 5: When the phone fits properly, glue the felt in place. When the glue is dry, use the utility knife to trim the felt.

Step 6: Twist on one closet pole end cap to protect the felt-lined notch when you’re not making a video or photo.

Step 7: Twist the second closet pole end cap onto the bottom of the pole to protect the pole while hiking. Secure the bottom cap with the wood screw. Your monopod hiking staff is complete.

"How to Make a Monopod Hiking Staff for your Smartphone" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Recycle empty plastic bottles and jugs into these fun and useful projects.

TEN-MINUTE BIRD FEEDER

Cut four holes 2″ from the bottom on each side of a half-gallon milk jug. Below each hole, make a small hole and poke dowels or sticks through the feeder. Ask an adult to drill a small hole in the cap.

Attach a string or metal coat hanger, fill with birdseed and hang it up.

SELF-WATERING PLANTER

Cut the top third off a 2-liter plastic bottle. Ask an adult to drill a small hole in the cap. Pass a string through the hole. Fill the bottom of the bottle about half way with water. Place the top upside-down in the bottom and put in your plant. The string will wick up the water into the soil.

BALL TOSS GAME

Cut the bottoms off two 1-gallon milk jugs. Make a ball from rolled-up plastic grocery bags and tape. Enjoy a game of catch.

QUICKER BERRY PICKER

Cut a hand-size hole opposite the handle on a 1-gallon milk jug. Slide the handle onto your belt. You’re ready to pick and hold more berries.

FLYING SAUCERS

Cut the bottom from a milk jug about 3″ high. Cut three or four 3″ circles from the upper part of the jug. Try to sail the disks into the milk-jug bottom.

GARDEN SCOOP OR BOAT BAILER

Cut a 1-gallon milk jug at an angle as shown. This is great for spreading compost or removing water from a boat.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of the completed project sent to us by Boys’ Life readers. If you have a photos of a BL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"Six Projects to Make With Recycled Plastic Bottles and Jugs" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• 28- to 32-ounce tin can
• Can opener
• Ruler
• Fine-tipped marker
• Tin snips
• Work gloves
• Drill
• 1⁄4″ and 1⁄16″ metal drill bits
• 1⁄4″ x 6″ carriage bolt
• Three 1⁄4″ nuts
• Adjustable wrench or pair of pliers
• Utility knife
• Screw-on plastic bottle cap
• 60 paper clips
• About 12″ of small rubber tubing
• Several metal bottle caps

WHAT YOU’LL DO

1. Put on your gloves and remove the lid of the can, cutting it from the side so there are no sharp edges. Empty and clean the can.

2. Measure 2″ from the bottom of the can. Draw a line around the can. Use the tin snips to cut off the bottom.

3. Drill a 1⁄4″ hole in the center of both the bottom and the lid. Drill another 1⁄4″ hole in the center of the plastic bottle cap.

Figure: 1/4″ holes drilled in the center of the bottle cap, lid and can bottom.

4. Drill 12  1⁄16″ holes around the outer edge of the lid.

Figure: 12 1/16″ holes evenly spaced and drilled into lid.

5. Push the carriage bolt up through the bottom.

Figure: Side view of inserted bolt.

6. Slide the plastic bottle cap down the carriage bolt. Screw the first nut down until it is snug against the top of the plastic bottle cap.

Figure: Side view of nut tightened on top of bottle cap.

7. Make a strand of paper clips by connecting five. Make 12 strands. Bend one paper clip into a circle that fits loosely around the carriage bolt. Attach all twelve strands to the circle.

Figure: 12 strands of five paper clips attached to the paper-clip circle.

8. Slide the circle down the carriage bolt until it rests on the plastic bottle cap.

9. Screw the second nut onto the carriage bolt until it is about 1⁄2″ down the bolt. Place the lid on the carriage bolt. Screw the third nut onto the bolt until it is flush with the top of the bolt. Screw the second nut against the bottom of the lid.

10. Connect the paper clips to the holes in the lid.

11. Cut the rubber tubing with the utility knife so you can fit it onto the top edge of the can bottom. Your bottle-cap toss game is complete!

HOW TO PLAY DISC-GOLF

Disc Golf (sometimes called Frolf or frisbee golf) is game in which individual players throw a flying disc at a goal. Like traditional golf, the object of Disc Golf is to complete a course in the fewest number of disc throws.

More about Disc Golf from the Professional Disc Golf Association

"Make This Bottle-Cap Disc-Golf Game" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Make a variable-pitch whistle that you can use to signal, play a tune or just show off your carving skills.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Pocketknife
• Small piece of willow branch, 3 to 5 inches long, about the diameter of your little finger

WHAT YOU’LL DO

1. Cut a 45-degree bevel on one end of the stick. This will be the mouthpiece of the whistle. Just forward of the bevel and on top of the whistle, cut a notch with a 90-degree edge close to the bevel and angle off the top. This will be used for airflow. Cut the bark around the stick at the desired length of your whistle.

2. Tap the whistle with the handle of your knife to loosen the bark from the wood. After tapping all sides of the whistle, twist the bark loose. Keep at it until the bark eventually comes off, but be careful: The bark must remain in one piece.

3. Take the stick and cut off the beveled part flush with the 90-degree cut of the air hole. Cut a small sliver off the top of the beveled part of the stick. This will make the hole needed to allow air to go into the whistle. This part of the stick will then become part of the mouthpiece. Insert this mouthpiece part into the angled end of the bark piece.

4. Put the remaining part of the stick back into the other end of the bark, and the whistle is complete. Blow into the whistle and slide the stick up and down in the bark. This will give you the range of your whistle tones.

"How to Carve a Willow Whistle" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Slime requires two main ingredients: polyvinyl alcohol (in this case, glue) and borate ion (in this case, borax). Slime forms because polyvinyl alcohol is attracted to borate ion. That attraction creates lots of long, sticky chains — or slime.

Here’s how to make your own batch of slime.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• School glue
• Borax
• About 1 cup of water
• One very large bowl
• Plastic spoon
• Measuring cup and spoon
• Disposable gloves
• Optional: Food coloring

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: In the bowl, mix 2 tablespoons of glue and ¼ cup of water. To make your slime a specific color, add food coloring to the mixture now.

Step 2: Put on your gloves. Add ¼ cup of borax to the glue/water mixture and stir slowly.

Step 3: As the slime begins to mix, start kneading it with your hands. It’ll be messy at first, but keep going until the slime is fully formed. Add more water to make the slime stretchy.

"How to Make Slime With Glue and Borax" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

This fun project can help keep backyard birds fed during the winter.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• 1″ x 8″ x 5′ pine board cut into the following seven pieces:
  • 7-1/2″ x 7-1/2″
  • 6″ x 6″
  • 7-1/2″ x 10-1/2″
  • 6-3/4″ x 10 1/2″
  • 5-1/4″ x 5-1/4″ (cut in half diagonally to make two gables)
  • 6-1/4″ x 4″
• Two 3′ lengths of rope or paracord
• 1-quart wide-mouth Mason jar with lid ring
• Saw
• Drill
• 1-3⁄4″ hole saw
• Drill bit slightly larger than the rope or paracord
• 1/4″, 1/8″ and 1/16″ drill bits
• Four small screws or nails (to attach lid ring to base)
• Boiled linseed oil
• Wood glue
• Screwdriver
• 34 1-1⁄4″ exterior wood screws
• 18-gauge wire
• Four 1⁄4″ dowels, 1-1⁄2″ long
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Sandpaper
• Birdseed

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: Cut the seven wood pieces as indicated above and sand them.

Step 2: Find the center of the large square of wood by drawing pencil lines from corner to corner and side to side. Place the lid ring in the center of the square and trace around the inside and outside. Locate and mark the rope holes. Mark the center of each feeder cup hole. Drill out the feeder cup holes with the 1-3/4″ hole saw. Sand the top edge of each hole so it is slightly rounded. Cut off the corners.

Step 3: Center, glue and screw the small square of wood onto the bottom of the big square. Make sure to predrill and countersink all screws. From the top, drill a 1/8″ drain hole through the center of each feeder cup hole. Drill the rope holes. Drill four 1/4″ holes, about 5/8″ deep, in the center of each side of the base. Glue the dowels into the holes, leaving 1″ showing. Let dry.

Step 4: Glue and screw the roof together. Screw the jar stop in place. Drill the roof rope holes so they are straight above the rope holes in the base. Apply the linseed oil to the roof and base, and let dry for 24 hours.

Step 5: Drill four 1/16″ holes through the jar lid ring. Attach the ring to the base. Feed the first rope straight up through the front of the base and up through the roof rope holes, then feed it back down through the holes on the opposite side. Do the same with the second rope on the back of the feeder. Tie knots at the bottom of the feeder base. Make them loose enough so you can adjust them. Fill the Mason jar with birdseed. Slide the roof up the rope high enough to screw on the jar. Lower the roof back down so the jar stop rests on top of the Mason jar. Adjust the knots until the feeder hangs straight. If you are using paracord, melt the ends to keep the ropes from unraveling.

Step 6: Wrap the wire around the two top loops as shown and hang the feeder.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of the completed project sent to us by Boys’ Life readers. If you have a photos of a BL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"How to Build a Mason Jar Bird Feeder" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Solid dry sticks about 3⁄4″ in diameter
• Pocketknife for removing bark
• Coping saw
• 1″ x 6″ x 12″ pine board (This is the backboard that the numbers will be glued and nailed to.)
• Two 1″ x 2″ x 13 1⁄2″ pine boards
• Two 1″ x 2″ x 5 1⁄2″ pine boards
• Exterior caulking
• Paper
• Pencil
• Enough sixpenny galvanized-finish nails to secure the numbers to the framed backboard
• Sandpaper
• Drill and counter-sink bit for pilot holes
• Drill bit (to predrill each nail hole)
• Nail punch (to recess each nail)
• 14 1 1⁄4″ exterior wood screws
• Tape measure
• Wood glue
• Wood putty
• Paint, stain or other weatherproof wood finish of your choice

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1. Collect sticks and lay them separately on the ground. Write your house or unit number on a piece of paper to use as a guide. Look closely at the sticks and choose pieces that could become a part of a number.

Step 2. Use the coping saw to cut out the parts you have selected. Use the pocketknife to remove bark. Each number should be about 4″ tall.

Step 3. When all the numbers are cut and complete, lay them out on the ground. Once you are satisfied with the look and spacing of the numbers, measure the length of the assembled numbers.

Step 4. Cut the 1″ x 6″ backboard 1 1⁄2″ longer than the length of the assembled numbers. Cut out the frame boards. (The length of the framed backboard can be longer or shorter, depending on how many numbers you have.)

Caulk all the edges of the 1″ x 6″ backboard and screw the frame in place. Fill the screw holes with wood putty.

Sand the shallow box and paint or stain it a color of your choice.

Step 5. Sand all the number pieces. Lay them into the assembled frame and backboard. Where the number parts touch the backboard, sand a flat area so the number twigs will make good contact with the backboard.

Drill pilot holes for each nail, and glue and nail the numbers in place. Use the nail punch to countersink the nails slightly below the surface of each number.

Fill the recessed nail holes with wood putty, and sand the filled holes when the putty is dry. Carefully paint or stain the numbers with a color that provides contrast to the framed backboard so the numbers are easy to read. Your sign project is complete.

"How to Make a Twig Number Sign" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• One 3.5-ounce jar of strained-meat baby food (no salt added), beef or veal recommended.
• 1/2 cup powdered skim milk
• 3/4 cup wheat germ

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: In a cold oven, move rack to top third of oven. Preheat to 275 degrees.

Step 2: Lightly grease a cookie sheet with butter or cooking oil (spray-on oil works well).

Step 3: Mix ingredients in a medium-size bowl.

Step 4: Scoop morsels out of the bowl with teaspoon-size measuring spoon. Fill the teaspoon evenly, not heaping.

Step 5: Drop morsels onto greased cookie sheet about one-half inch apart. (They don’t spread while cooking as regular cookies do.)

Step 6: Bake for 11 to 12 minutes, but watch carefully so the bottoms don’t get too brown.

Step 7: Remove from the oven and place pan on wire rack to cool. Makes approximately 45 doggie cookies.

MICROWAVE OVEN DIRECTIONS

Place a small number of morsels on waxed paper on a plate and cover with another plate turned upside down. Microwave on high 2 to 4 minutes,depending on power of microwave. Take top plate off as treats cool or they might get soggy. Let the treats cool completely.

STORAGE

Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to 10 days. Put extras in plastic bags in the freezer for up to two months. Thaw in the refrigerator before using.

TEACH YOUR DOG A NEW TRICK

Use your treats to teach your dog to spin around.

• Each training session for a new trick shouldn’t last much longer than five minutes. Try another five-minute session later in the day to refresh the dog’s memory.
• With both of you standing, face your dog.
• Hold a treat in front of your dog’s nose without letting him touch it.
• Have the dog follow the treat around in a tight circle. Go in the same direction each time.
• When the dog completes the circle, give it the treat and lots of praise.
• After some practice, hold the treat so the dog can see it and say, “Spin,” but don’t lead the dog around in a circle. If he starts to turn in a circle by himself, praise him verbally until the trick is finished and only then give the food reward.
• In a couple of days, your dog will spin as soon as you bring out the treat.

"How to Make Homemade Dog Treats" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

• Your cooking gear
• Tape measure
• 9/16″ plywood (You’ll need one standard sheet for the small-size box shown.)
• Four 1″ x 3″ oak planks for the legs (The average height for the swing-down work surface should be 30″ to 34″.)
• Scrap wood for drawer rails
• Eight carriage bolts and wing nuts
• Carpenter’s glue
• Sandpaper
• Drill and bits
• Screwdriver
• Fine-toothed saw
• Chain and six eye screws
• Paint
• Exterior wood screws
• Trunk handles
• Two eye screws and swing hooks
• Piano hinge
• Sturdy plastic wash tubs for drawers

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: Gather all the cooking and cleaning gear you want to store in your chuck box. The amount of gear you have will determine the size of your chuck box and how the inside is designed. The box shown here is just one example of how your box could look. Some boxes have only one or two drawers to make room for larger items such as pots and pans. It’s up to you.

Once you have decided on the size and shape of your box, cut out all the plywood pieces. Sand, prime and paint all plywood surfaces and edges before assembling. This is much easier than painting the box afterward. Add slide rails for drawers if needed.

Step 2: Screw and glue the box together. Remember to predrill all screw holes and countersink the heads for a neat finish. After your box is assembled, lightly sand it and brush on a second coat of paint.

Step 3: Lay the painted door in position and carefully screw on the piano hinge.

Step 4: Attach the chain.

Step 5: Close the door and determine the position of the eye screws and swing hooks before screwing them in place.

Step 5: Attach the trunk handles. (Use nuts and bolts for this so the handles are extra strong. Some larger boxes many need two handles per side.)

Step 6: Fill your chuck box with your cooking gear and you’re ready for your next campout.

YOU CAN ADD SOME LEGS

Adding legs can get your chuck box off the ground and easily accessible. If you don’t have a tailgate or picnic table to set your chuck box on, this is definitely the way to go. The legs store flat and can be attached with no tools needed using wing nuts and carriage bolts.

The legs can be made from 2″ x 4″ fir or 1″ x 3″ oak. The oak is more expensive but will be stronger and last longer. Make sure the legs are angled outward enough so the box is sturdy when the front is open and in use.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of chuck boxes sent to us by Boys’ Life readers. If you have a photos of a BL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"Build a Chuck Box for Camp Cooking" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Here’s a step-by-step guide to building a wooden bee house, providing solitary bees with a warm, dry place for nesting. This simple project will help these essential pollinators thrive in your yard or garden. By creating a safe bee house or bee hotel, you’ll encourage solitary bees to take up residence and contribute to the health of your plants and flowers.

You can also build a bee hotel for solitary bees using tin can.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

• Piece of wood or a log, about 14″ long and at least 4″ thick. (6″ would be ideal.) Do not use treated wood.
• 3⁄4″ board or scrap of metal for the roof that is long and wide enough to create a 3″ overhang on the sides and a 4″ to 5″ overhang on the front. The back of the roof should be flush with the back of the board or log.
• Drill with bits ranging from 1⁄8″ to 1⁄2″ (No bigger than 1⁄2″)
• Crosscut saw
• Tin snips, if you use metal for the roof
• Sandpaper
• Hammer
• Nine 1 1⁄2″ galvanized finish nails for nailing on the roof and three 2″ galvanized common nails for hanging the bee house
• 1′ length of rope. (This is for making the hanger on the back of the bee house.)

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO BUILD A BEE HOUSE:

Step 1: To build a bee house or hotel, saw off one end of the board or log at an angle, so the roof will have a slant that will cause rainwater to run off. The longest length of the board or log should be about 14″.

Use a crosscut saw to make an angled cut, so the roof will be sloped and enable water to run off.

Step 2: Nail on the roof. Rain is hard on bees’ homes. You need to keep the tunnel nests as dry as possible.

Use the nine galvanized finish nails to attach the roof.

Step 3: Drill an assortment of 1⁄8″ and 1⁄2″ holes about 1⁄2″ to 1″ apart. Do not go all the way through the wood or log. Clean away any sawdust and smooth the openings with sandpaper. Bees will not enter a rough opening.

There should be 1⁄2″ to 1″ between holes. Sand the entrance to each hole smooth. Bees will not enter a rough opening.

Step 4: Tie a small knot at each end of the rope. On each side of the bee house, attach the rope with a nail hammered through the knot. Match the two sides so the house won’t tilt. Your bee house is complete and ready to hang.

Make sure your bee house is in a warm, sunny spot. It’s very important to keep the holes dry.

5. Hang the house in full sun on the south side of a fence, building or post, about 3′ to 5′ above the ground.

Hang the bee house 3′ to 5′ above the ground.

Don’t spray any pesticide nearby. Keep an eye on the bee house and watch what happens, especially in the spring. Be sure to keep your distance. Very few solitary bees sting, but play it safe anyway.

DID YOU KNOW? While honeybees have hives, solitary bees do not. They depend on shelters like this one to stay safe and keep healthy. We benefit from them, too. Without their pollination efforts, about one-third of our food supply would be at risk.

Read Bee Basics: An Introduction to our Native Bees to find out more about solitary bees.

"Build a Wooden Bee House to Make a Home for Solitary Bees" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• A large hardcover book you will never read again
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Metal ruler or straight edge
• Hobby knife
• Screwdriver
• An L-bracket that is the right size for your book
• Two short flathead screws that are just long enough to go through the pages of your book, but not through the covers
• Two flathead screws that will be long enough to go through the L-bracket and into a stud in the wall
• Level

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: Open the back cover of your book. Use the tape measure to find the vertical center of the last page. At the center, draw a horizontal line on the page.

Step 2: Place the L-bracket on the book so you can see the pencil line in the center of the bracket holes. Make sure the back of the bracket is flush with the pages, then trace the bracket.

Step 3: Using the hobby knife and ruler, carefully follow the tracing of the bracket and cut down through enough pages so the bracket will be flush with the top of the last page.

Step 4: Turn the bracket over, place it in the cutout and mark where it touches the front cover, and cut out a notch that will allow the book to be closed flat with the bracket in place.

Step 5: Use the short flathead screws to screw through the pages from the back of the book. This is a little tricky and you might need a friend or some clamps to press down on the pages so they don’t rise up while turning the screws. On the edge of a table or workbench, place the bracket into the cutout and apply glue evenly to the back cover and the back page. Make sure you use a liberal amount of glue, but not enough to squeeze out the front and sides.

Step 6: Get some glue into the edges around the bracket and close the back cover of the book.

Step 7: Put enough weight on top of the book to keep it flat while drying. Allow it to dry overnight.

Step 8: After it is completely dry, you will have a solid book and bracket ready to attach to the wall. Make sure the book is level, and screw the book bracket through the wall and into a stud. Stack books on top, and your invisible shelf is complete.

"How to Make an Invisible Bookshelf" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• 2 pieces of plywood, 1/2″ x 8″ x 8″
• 1/4″ machine bolt, 1 1/2″ long
• 4 1/4″ flat washers
• 2 1/4″ nuts
• Medium-grade sandpaper
• Coping saw
• Crosscut saw
• Drill
• 1/4″ drill bit
• Drawing compass
• Protractor
• Straight edge
• Dark pen

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: Use the compass to draw a 6″ circle on one piece of wood. Draw a 7″ circle on the second piece of wood.

Step 2: With the coping saw, cut out both circles. Sand smooth.

Step 3: Use the straight edge to draw one line all the way across each disc, making sure the line goes through the center of both plywood circles.

Step 4: Center the protractor on the lines you just drew and make a mark every 12 degrees halfway around each disc.

Step 5: Draw a line through each mark, across the center of both discs.

Step 6: Staying within 1/2″ of the edge of the 7″ wheel, write this scrambled alphabet, one letter in each space: S P H I N X T O W E R C L A M J U G B D F K Q V Y Z. In the leftover spaces, write 5, 6, 7, 8. On the 6″ wheel, write the alphabet in regular order (A B C …). In the leftover spaces, write 1, 2, 3, 4.

Step 7: Drill a 1/4″ hole through the center of each disc. Assemble the cipher wheel by putting one washer on the bolt. Put the bolt and washer through the bottom of the 7″ wheel. Turn the wheel over so the letters are facing up. Put two washers on the bolt, then add the 6″ wheel. Place another washer on the bolt and two nuts hand tightened so the wheels are snug and turn smoothly.

HOW TO USE YOUR CIPHER WHEEL

Pick any letter on the outer wheel as your key letter. Turn the inner wheel so A lines up with the key letter. Next, find the first letter of your message on the inner wheel. Look at the letter or number above it on the outer wheel. Write this down. Do the same for each letter of your message.

Example: Use the key letter R. Use the message SCOUT LAW. The enciphered message should be 7LYS8KRH. You can pick a different key letter for each message.

"How to Build a Secret-Code Wheel" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

It might seem like magic, but all you’re doing is collecting salt crystals from evaporated salt water. (It’s still cool!)

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Salt
• 4 cups of water
• Tablespoon
• Wooden spatula
• Saucepan
• Heat-safe glass jar
• String
• Paperclip
• Pencil
• Food coloring (optional)

WHAT YOU’LL DO

1. With the help of an adult, bring the water to a boil in the saucepan. Fill the jar with the hot water.

2. Add salt to the hot water one tablespoon at a time until no more salt can dissolve into the water. Stir each time you add the salt until it fully dissolves. It will take about one tablespoon of salt for every ounce of water.

3. Tie one end of the string to the middle of the pencil. Attach the paperclip to the other end, which will keep the string hanging straight in the jar.

4. Place the pencil on top of the jar so the string hangs down into the middle of the jar. If the paperclip touches the bottom of the jar, it is too long. To add color to your crystals, put a few drops of food coloring in the water.

5. Put the jar in a warm place. Within a few days, the water will start to evaporate and you will see your salt crystals forming. The longer you let it sit, the more crystals you will grow.

"How to Grow Your Own Crystals" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Don’t let that happen to yours. Use a hide rack patch display. Based on Native American “hide racks” that cured fur pelts, this display lets you show off your souvenirs and practice knots and hitches.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Two one-inch-diameter dowels, 42 inches long
• Two one-inch-diameter dowels, 29 inches long
• 1⁄8-inch cotton cord
• 1⁄8-inch bit and drill
• Wood screws and screwdriver
• Piece of brown or tan synthetic suede leather, 24 inches wide by 36 inches long
• 24 inches of self-adhesive Velcro fastening tape, 1⁄2 inch wide
• Scissors

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1: To build the frame, position the dowels (use real branches for a more rustic look) in a rectangle. The shorter dowels should lay vertically on top of the longer dowels. Leave an overlap of about two inches on the corners.

Step 2: Drill a 1⁄8-inch pilot hole about 11⁄2 inches deep at each corner. Be sure not to drill completely through the horizontal dowels. Secure each corner with a screw and turn the frame over.

Step 3: With the cotton cord, tie a square lashing on each of the four corners.

Step 4: Give the entire frame, including lashings, a coat of brown wood stain. You might also want to apply a light coat of satin varnish or a polyurethane finish to the frame. Allow the frame to dry.

Step 5: Trim the hide about two inches smaller than the frame. Save the leftover scraps.

Step 6: Cut a row of 1⁄4-inch-long slits along the edges of the hide, spacing the slits about one inch apart and 1⁄2 inch from the edge.

Step 7: From the leftover scrap, cut 1⁄4-inch-wide strips, as long as possible. Join the strips together using square knots until you have two laces 20 feet long each.

Step 8: Lay the frame faceup on a large flat sur face (The screws should not be showing.) Using a clove hitch, tie the laces to the frame in two opposite corners.

Step 9: Position the hide in the center of the frame and begin looping the laces through the slits—under the hide and over the dowel. Keep an even tension by working in opposite directions. End with a final clove hitch.

Step 10: Cut the Velcro into 1⁄2-inchsquare pieces. Before attaching the squares to the patches, arrange your patches on the rack, which is screwside down.

Step 11: To mount the Velcro, peel off the plastic strip covering the hook side of a Velcro pad and stick it to the patch. Then peel off the strip covering the fuzzy side and stick it to the hide. (Keeping the hook and fuzzy sides consistent will make it easier to rearrange your patches later.)

Step 12: Tie leather strips to the upper corners of the frame to form hanging loops. Attach the rack to your wall using nails or picture hangers. Besides patches, you can also display hat pins, historic trail medals, ribbons or other mementos. What better way to show off the things you’re proud of!

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of the completed project sent to us by Scout Life readers. If you have a photos of a SL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"Make a ‘Hide Rack’ Display For Your Patches" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

This stylish tea light candle holder makes a great gift.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Two 1″ x 4″ x 17 1⁄2″ boards
• Two 1″ x 4″ x 3 1⁄2″ boards
• One 1″ x 16″ board
• Six  1⁄2″ x  1⁄2″ long wooden dowels
• Six  1⁄2″ x 1″ long wooden dowels
• Cross-cut saw
• Drill and 3⁄32″ drill bit (To pre-drill all screw holes)
• 22 1 1⁄4″ wood screws
• Six 1″ wood screws
• One 10-lb box of quick-drying cement
• Spray cooking oil
• Bucket in which to mix the cement
• Kitchen gloves
• Garden trowel
• 10 tea light candles
• Dust mask
• Coarse sandpaper
• Hammer
• Glue gun
• Six 1⁄2″ felt furniture pads

WHAT YOU’LL DO

1. Cut all the frame boards and dowels to size.

2. Assemble the wooden cement form and place it on a level surface.

3. Spray a liberal amount of cooking oil inside the form so the hardened concrete will not stick to the wood form.

4. Follow the cement mixing directions and trowel the cement into the form. Oil the five tea candles and push them into the wet cement. Lightly tap the sides of the form with the hammer to help level the cement.

5. When the cement is nearly hardened, carefully remove the five embedded tea candles and discard. The cement hardens quickly, so keep an eye on it. Smooth and widen the sides and bottom of the empty candle holes with a strip of sandpaper glued to a dowel. This will slightly enlarge the candle holes so the tea candles will drop in easily when the candle holder is complete.

6. After the cement is completely hardened, unscrew the form and carefully remove it, saving the bottom for last. Put on the dust mask and sand all the edges and corners. Use the glue gun to glue the 1⁄2″ x 1″ wooden dowels into the holes in the bottom of the candle holder. These will be the feet. Glue the felt pads onto the bottom of each dowel. Drop five tea candles into place. Your concrete candle holder is complete.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of the completed project sent to us by Boys’ Life readers. If you have a photos of a BL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"Make a Rustic Concrete Candle Holder" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• 2″ x 6″ board, 24″ long (The actual size of a 2″ x 6″ board is 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″.)

Cut the board as follows:

• 2 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ boards (top and base)
• 2 1 1/2″ x 1 3/4″ x 5 1/2″ boards (sides)
• 1″ x 1 7/8″ x 11″ board (slide)
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Pocketknife
• Sandpaper
• Wood glue
• 1 dowel or peg about 1/4″ in diameter, 4″ long
• 1 dowel or peg about 1/4″ in diameter, 2″ long
• A clean quart or pint canning jar with its metal ring
• Crosscut saw for sawing across the grain
• Ripsaw for sawing with the grain
• Drill
• Drill bit, sized for pre-drilling 2 1/2″ holes
• 7/8″ spade bit
• Countersink bit (so driven screws are flush)
• Screwdriver
• 12 wood screws, 2 1/2″ long
• 4 flat-head brads for nailing jar ring to top of dispenser
• Small drill bit for pre-drilling brad holes in jar ring
• Jelly beans or gumballs

WHAT YOU’LL DO

1. Cut all the boards to size and sand smooth.

2. Glue and screw the base onto the sides.

3. Pencil an X from corner to corner on the top board.

4. Drill a 7/8″ hole through the center of the top board.

5. Glue and screw the top board onto the sides and base. Sand the slide until it moves smoothly in the square hole in the center of the dispenser.

6. Drill a hole 3/4″ from the front of the slide. This is for the 4″ peg or dowel. Drill a hole 1/2″ from the back of the slide. This is for the 2″ peg or dowel. Glue the 4″ peg or dowel in the front hole on the slide.

7. Push the slide into place until it stops at the 4″ peg. Draw a circle through the 7/8″ hole on the top board onto the slide.

8. Drill a 7/8″ hole 3/8″ deep into the slide as shown.

9. Bevel the 7/8″ slide hole with the pocketknife and sand smooth.

10. Drill and nail the jar ring onto the top board.

11. Push the slide into place. When the slide is pushed in all the way, the hole in the top and the hole in the slide should line up. Glue the 2″ peg or dowel onto the back of the slide.

12. Fill the jar with candy, screw it onto the ring and your dispenser is complete.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of the completed project sent to us by Boys’ Life readers. If you have a photos of a BL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"Make a Homemade Candy Dispenser" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A BOX KITE

• Pocketknife
• Pencil
• Scissors
• Fine-toothed saw
• 4 wooden dowels 1⁄4” x 36”
• 4 wooden dowels 1⁄4” x 17”
• 4 straws that can slide over 1⁄4” dowels
• Household string
• Carpenter’s glue
• Duct or masking tape
• Lightweight construction paper (You can also use 2 mil painter’s plastic cloth, newspapers, wrapping paper or plastic trash bags.) You will need two sheets of material 11” x 64”.
• Kite string

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A BOX KITE

1. Cut the 1⁄4” dowels to length. Use your pocketknife to carve a notch in each end of the 17” dowels. Notches at opposite ends of each dowel must be at the same angle to fit into the dowels they will cross.

2. Mark each 17” dowel halfway along its length at 8 1⁄2”. Turn notches in correct direction and tie two tightly together at the halfway point with household string. Soak the string with glue. After the glue dries, wrap the joints tightly with masking or duct tape. Make two of these crosspieces, which will hold the frame together.

3. Cut eight lengths of straw 4” long. Cut and fold each straw as shown. Slide the straws onto each 36” dowel. Use tape to hold the straws in position, 6” from the end of each dowel. Make sure both straws on each dowel are pointing in the same direction. Slide the crosspieces into the straws. Use tape to hold the whole thing together while you tie the joints tightly together with string, soak with glue and tape as in Step 2. This process will make a very sturdy frame for your kite. As an option, you can wrap a string around each end of the frame to add strength.

4. Tape and tightly wrap the 11” x 64” sheet material around the frame. Trim to length and tape in place.

5. Apply tape around the sheets on all edges.

6. Attach the kite string as shown, and you’re ready to fly.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of the completed project sent to us by Boys’ Life readers. If you have a photos of a BL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"How to Build and Fly a Box Kite" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

"Use an Old Spoon to Make a Homemade Fishing Lure" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Challenge your friends on this awesome DIY chess board.

Need to make pieces too? Here’s how to make an awesome hardware chess set.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

• Ruler
• Pencil
• Utility knife
• One 1⁄4″ x 12″ x 12″ sheet of cork
• One 1⁄4″ x 12″ x 12″ piece of plywood
• Fine-toothed saw
• Four 1″ x 2″ x 3″ pine blocks
• Two 1″ x 2″ x 12″ pine boards
• Two 1″ x 2″ x 13 1⁄2″ pine boards
• 16 1 1⁄4″ wood screws
• Eight 3⁄4″ wood screws
• 3⁄32” drill bit and countersink bit
• Drill
• Wood putty
• Wood glue
• Paint or stain and brush

WHAT YOU’LL DO:

1. Cut the sheet of cork into 64 1 1⁄2″ squares.

2. Paint or stain 32 squares, so they are a different color than the remaining 32 squares.

3. Cut out the 12″ x 12″ piece of plywood and glue on the cork squares in alternating order.

4. Cut the four frame boards and the four blocks to size. Screw and glue the blocks onto the bottom of the plywood. Screw and glue the wood frame in place. To keep the wood from splitting, drill and countersink all the screw holes before screwing the frame together. Fill the recessed screw holes with wood putty.

5. Paint or stain the frame.

Your chess board is complete! Need to make pieces too? Here’s how to make an awesome hardware chess set.

"How to Make a DIY Chess Board" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Click here for a PDF version of these instructions.

I make arrows the way my Iroquois ancestors did long ago. You can, too.

In our modern world, the hard part is getting the material, but you can use some alternatives that I’ve suggested.

Just remember: These arrows might look crude, but they’re not toys. Use them for target practice only, under the supervision of an adult, or display them in your room. Be careful!

— Gordon Soaring Hawk

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Adult help and/or supervision
• Quarter-inch or 5/16-inch dowels
• Bone, metal or slate, ground to shape, for arrowheads
• Stout thread or cordage to attach feathers and arrowheads to the shaft
• Hot glue, wood glue or ferrule cement
• Wing feathers from a craft store
• Water- or oil-based paint

WHAT YOU’LL DO

STEP 1: Shafts should be about as thick as your little finger and a couple of inches longer than the distance from your armpit to your fingertips. Make sure they’re straight as an arrow! After you gather them (get permission before cutting any growing thing), bundle them in groups of five and let dry for a few days. Dowels can be used as a substitute; they are available at lumber and building-supply stores.

STEP 2: Once the shaft is dry, scrape off the bark until the wood is smooth.

STEP 3: Cut a notch (about as deep as the diameter of the shaft) for the bowstring by scraping one end with a sharp stone. To get a sharp stone, find a piece of quartzite cobble (river stone) and break it in half with another rock. At the end of the shaft that receives the arrowhead, scrape out a notch that is 3/8 – to 5/8-inch deep. You can also use a knife, small saw or file.

STEP 4: Grind an arrowhead into the right shape by scraping the material against a sidewalk until the arrowhead has a point and a sharp edge. It’s a simple but tedious process. For safer arrowheads, you can round off the point.

STEP 5: Using the sharp rock, gouge a notch on either side of the wide end of the arrowhead for holding the cordage.

STEP 6: Place the arrowhead in the notch, wrap it with a piece of cordage 8 to 10 inches long and glue it with hot glue. I use resin, which is made from boiling pitch (sap) from trees. Making resin can be dangerous because natural turpentines must be burned off. For cordage, I use sinew, which I prepare by pounding deer tendons between rocks, then separate them into long, stringy fibers. Before I can use the sinew, I must chew it. The enzymes in saliva help dissolve the collagen that holds the tissues together, and this is what makes it work like glue. (Soaking it in water won’t work.)

STEP 7: For fletching (arranging) the feathers on your arrows, make sure each vane comes from the same side of the wing. Split each feather down the middle of the spine (use scissors or pocketknife) and trim it to size.

STEP 8: Glue the feathers onto the shaft, making sure the top feather is aligned with the bowstring notch, then space the two others equally from the first. Wrap more thread around each end of the feathers and set the arrow aside to dry for a day.

STEP 9: Once the wrappings are dry, the arrow is ready for painting. I put animal fat in a tin can and melt it in the sun. Then I mix in some reddish earth and daub it on the arrow with a paintbrush. You can use watercolors or oil-based paint.

Now it’s time for target practice!

"How to Make An Authentic Native-American Arrow" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Challenge your friends and family with this giant version of a classic game.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Six 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards if you make the larger set, or two 2″ x 2″ x 10′ boards if you make the smaller set
• Work gloves
• Dust mask
• Safety glasses
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Carpenter’s square
• Cross-cut saw
• Hand sander
• Three grades of sandpaper: coarse 60-grit, medium 120-grit, fine 180-grit
• Water-based polyurethane
• Fine steel wool

WHAT YOU’LL DO

1. If you make the larger set, cut 54 2″ x 4″ x 10 1⁄2″ blocks from the six 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards. If you make the smaller set, cut 48 2″ x 2″ x 41⁄2″ blocks from the two 2″ x 2″ x 10′ boards.

2. Put on the gloves, safety glasses and dust mask. Use the hand sander to sand all the blocks with the coarse 60-grit sandpaper. After the blocks are sanded with the 60-grit paper, sand them with the 120-grit, then again with the 180-grit. If you’re 13 or younger, have a trusted adult operate the sander for you

3. Apply the first coat of polyurethane. After it is completely dry, smooth all the blocks with steel wool.  Apply a second coat of polyurethane. Use the steel wool again so all the blocks are smooth enough to slide easily. Your giant wood block game is complete.

"Build a Giant Wood Block Game" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Add a touch of nature to your USB drive with this DIY case.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• One USB drive. The dimensions for this project are based on a USB drive that is 2 1⁄8″ long, 3⁄4″ wide and 5⁄16″ thick.
• One dry stick, 1″ in diameter and at least 5″ long. Find a stick that is straight and solid with no decay.
• Vise or clamps to hold the stick firmly while cutting and drilling
• Fine-toothed saw
• Drill
• 3⁄8″ drill bit
• Masking tape
• 1⁄4″ wood chisel
• Sandpaper
• Fast-drying glue
• Wood glue
• Pocketknife

WHAT YOU’LL DO

Step 1. Choose a section of the stick that you want to use. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the stick where the cuts will be made. This will keep the wood from splintering. Secure the stick in a vise or use another type of clamp. Cut a section 2 1⁄2″ long. Go slowly and be careful not to cut on a slant. After cutting the stick to length, leave any remaining masking tape in place. Save the sawdust to make wood putty later.

Step 2. Before drilling, mark the drill bit at 2″ by wrapping masking tape around the bit. Drill two 3⁄8″ holes side by side, 2″ deep. Make sure the holes are drilled straight. Use the chisel to remove any wood between the holes until the USB drive fits into the hole. There should be about a 1⁄8″ plastic collar of the USB body sticking out beyond the end of the wood.

Step 3. Remove the USB drive. Remove any remaining tape and sand the stick so the edges are smooth and slightly rounded.

Step 4. Apply a few drops of fast-drying glue to the body of the USB drive and fit it back into place.

Step 5. Mix the saved sawdust with the wood glue until it is formable putty. Carefully use the pocketknife to press the mix into the gap around the USB drive. Try not to get any putty on the plastic collar of the USB drive. Let it dry overnight, and your project is complete

"How to Make a Rustic USB Drive Case" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

This easy-to-build training gear will prepare you for rocky trails.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• 3⁄4″ x 2′ x 2′ birch plywood
• 2″ x 4″ x 12″ board
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• 5-gallon plastic bucket
• Fine-toothed saw
• Keyhole saw or coping saw
• Drill, drill bits and countersink bit
• Wood glue
• 18 1 1⁄4″ wood screws
• Wood file
• Sandpaper
• Paint
• Paintbrush

WHAT YOU’LL DO

1. Cut out all the balance board pieces as shown. Use the bucket to trace the two curved rockers. Sand all the pieces.

2. Screw the two curved rockers together. File and sand them until they are smooth and exactly the same size and shape.

3. Screw and glue the 2″ x 4″ x 12″ board in place. Always drill pilot holes and countersink all screws.

4. After unscrewing them, glue and screw the two curved rockers in place. Make sure they are positioned exactly across from each other.

5. Paint the balance board or leave the wood bare. Your balance board is complete.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of the completed project sent to us by Boys’ Life readers. If you have a photos of a BL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

"How to Build a Balance Board" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

The best-known snow shelter is the igloo. A brilliant use of engineering and resources, this simple dome made out of snow blocks is both strong and versatile.

Arctic cultures such as the Eskimo and the Inuit developed it, and over time they came up with a hundred tricks to make the shelter more comfortable and sturdy, including making the entrance small (to help keep heat in) and melting the inside of the dome and letting it refreeze (for increased strength).

BUILDING AN IGLOO

Diameter: Not to exceed 10 feet. Anything bigger would require a perfect dome, which is next to impossible to construct in the field.

Materials: Top layers of dry powder won’t work. Pack mounds of snow until they harden, or cut blocks of snow from the depth where your feet stop sinking.

Entrance: Build a door in the ground, about 18 inches lower than the ground inside the igloo, and tunnel below the wall into the igloo. For proper ventilation, never seal or close the entrance.

Walls: Cut the blocks into a spiral layer, leaning one block against the next. Keep the interior wall smooth so moisture can run down the side of the wall, instead of dripping from the ceiling. Include a vent hole to allow for better circulation.

"How to Build an Igloo" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Pruning shears
• Pruning saw
• Knife
• Hammer
• Tape measure
• Drill
• Two sizes of ribbed paneling nails. The large nails are for the frame; the small nails for the flexible pieces you’ll bend.
• Four legs, 2 inches in diameter and 24 inches long
• 12 cross pieces, 1 1/2 inches in diameter, 16 inches long
• Eight flexible pieces, 1/2 inch in diameter, 36 inches long
• Two flexible pieces, 1/2 inch in diameter, 72 inches long
• One 4 1/2-foot board, cut into three pieces
• One 2-foot 1×2 board, cut in half
• 28 1-inch nails

CHOOSING YOUR MATERIALS

Willow is still commonly used to make rustic furniture, but almost any wood will work. Birch, ash, maple and even alder bend just fine. Wood becomes less flexible as it dries out, so it’s important to build your table soon after cutting the materials. Stay away from conifers like spruce and pine unless you don’t mind sticky sap covering everything you own.

WHAT YOU’LL DO

1. Cut your materials to size. The material diameters suggested are approximate. Use a sharp knife to take off any unwanted rough spots or bumps.

2. Attach three cross pieces to the legs by first drilling holes slightly smaller in diameter than the nails. Drilling a hole for each nail will prevent the wood from splitting when it dries.

3. Work your way around using two nails at each contact point. Make two identical frames. These two frames will be the front and back of your table.

4. Drill and nail four 1/2-inch twigs onto the bottom and center cross pieces.

5. Carefully bend each piece into position, then drill and nail them into place.

6. After each twig is attached, use the pruning shears to trim to length. Complete both the front and back frames.

7. Drill and nail the front and back frames together using the remaining six cross pieces.

8. Carefully bend and attach an inside arch as shown. Drill and nail it into place. When the table dries, the wood will shrink and grip the nails tightly.

9. Make the 18-by-18-inch square top from boards by nailing the 2-inch boards as shown.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of completed twig tables by Gunnar and Eric Johansson, two Scouts from Smithtown, N.Y.

If you have a photos of a BL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

RESPECT PRIVATE PROPERTY

Make sure you get permission from land owners before going onto private property. If you don’t have access to wooded property, tree-trimming crews can be a good resource for materials.

"How to Make a Rustic Twig Table" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• One 30-inch 1-inch-by-12-inch board (You can also cut a similar-size piece from a ¾ -inch-thick piece of plywood; treated wood weathers better.)
• 7 feet of 1-inch-by-1-inch pine (Or use 1-inch pine quarter round trim, or cut 1-inch by 1-inch strips from the 3/4 –inch-thick plywood).
• 10 galvanized 6-penny box or finishing nails
• One 1-inch pipe flange with four ¾-inch screws
• One 6 to 8 foot length of 1-inch galvanized pipe with one end threaded. (You can also screw the feeder onto a deck railing or hang it from eyehooks.)

Note: A roof is not necessary, but one can be added to keep the bird seed drier.

WHAT YOU’LL DO

STEP 1: Cut platform feeder base.

STEP 2: Measure and cut trim pieces so that they fit around the edge of the top of the platform feeder. This will serve to contain the bird seed.

STEP 3: Nail or screw the trim pieces to the platform feeder.

STEP 4: Fasten the pipe flange in the center of the bottom side of the platform with ¾-inch screws. (Or fasten screw eyes to each end of the platform if you want to hang it up.)

STEP 5: Screw pipe into the pipe flange and erect your platform feeder in your yard within viewing distance of your window.

FEEDER TIPS

Place the platform feeder in your best viewing position — but also consider nearby shrubs and trees for shelter and protection for the feeding birds. In open areas, place your feeder on the side of the house that is most protected from winter winds.

Each bird species has its special habits and needs. The best high-energy foods include sunflower seeds, peanut kernel, white proso millet and suet (beef fat).

Lastly, because birds will come to depend on your platform feeder, it is important that you keep it full of food. Neglect it, and birds could suffer.

"How to Make a Platform Bird Feeder" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

• 16 1″ x 2″ x 17  1⁄2″ boards
• Two 12  1⁄2″ boards
• Two 1″ x 2″ x 9″ boards
• Four 1″ x 2″ x 10  1⁄2″ boards
• One 1″ x 2″ x 12″ board

All 1″ x 2″ boards can be cut from four 1″ x 2″ x 10′ boards.

• Eight 1″ x 4″ x 8  1⁄2″ boards
• Two 1″ x 4″ x 13  1⁄2″ boards
• Two 1″ x 4″ x 15  1⁄2″ boards

All 1″ x 4″ boards can be cut from one 1″ x 4″ x 12′ board.

• Tape measure
• Framing square
• Pencil
• Crosscut saw
• Sandpaper
• Paintbrush and several colors of paint
• Three pipe clamps
• 70 1  1⁄4″ wood screws
• Drill and drill bit to predrill all screw holes
• Countersink drill bit
• Wood filler
• Putty knife
• Wood glue
• Water-based stain or non-yellowing water-based wood sealer

What You’ll Do:

1. Cut all boards to length. Sand the boards and paint one edge of each of the 17  1⁄2″ top step-stool boards. Let paint dry.

2. Spread a thin layer of glue on the sides of each painted board and clamp together. Wipe off extra glue with a damp cloth. Allow glue to dry overnight.

3. Using the framing square, pencil a line on the painted boards at 15  1⁄2″. Saw the step-stool top to length, cutting the top as square as possible. Touch up paint as needed.

4. Glue and screw the frame around the top.

5. Glue and screw the legs together. Apply glue to the tops of the legs and screw them to the frame from the back so you won’t see the screws.

6. Glue and screw the braces to the bottom of the step-stool top.

7. Glue and screw the lower leg braces in place. Screw them on from the back.

8. Use the putty knife and fill each recessed screw hole with wood filler. When the wood filler is completely dry, sand each filled screw hole smooth and flush with the surface of the boards.

9. You can stain the stool with water-based stain or diluted paint. Don’t stain the painted top. Seal the entire stool with the clear water-based sealer. Let the sealer dry overnight, and your stool is complete.